4.8is Ride Height Calibration
 

Used the search function but i can't find any definitive answers. I've just had two new Arnott bags fitted to the front end and have a friend with the GT1 system. Does anybody know the correct procedure for the ride height calibration, correct values etc ??

Not to bring up an ancient thread but I have searched for hours now and cannot find the proper ride heights (ground to fender). I am suspicious mine is sitting low but i have no codes. Just a harsh ride...

thanks

Here you go... but the mesurment is from the bottom lip of the rim to the bottom of the fender...

_______________ 17"____18"____19"____20"___these are wheel sizes
front axle_______685____697____710____722
rear axle________687____699____712____724
sport fr_________670____682____695____707
sport rr_________672____684____697____709

:iagree:i was just about to dig up the old post with this info... thanks Rob...:thumbup:

Haha, Last time you posted that, I copied it into a text doc. for easy access :D

Hey guys I thought I would post up since I went out to measure my car today, and I think I need to get my ride height calibrated correctly, I always suspected that my car "looked higher" than it should with Sports Package (so I have sports suspension) and I also have EHCII dual axle air suspension like the 4.8is on my 3.0i.

I measured from the bottom edge of my Style 168 wheels to the bottom of the fender arch, and measured just under 29.5 inches (749 mm!), and about the same on the rear as well. Although I have dual axle suspension I assume I should be using values of 707 front and 709 rear, I can't believe its possible that last time my height was calibrated it was 40mm off!

Is the ride height value 707mm / 709mm ONLY for 4.8is? Or does it apply to all models with 20" wheels and EHCII (the rarely equipped 3.0's and 4.4's)? I'm just wondering if I should lower to 722 and 724 (non-sport values), as that is already an inch of lowering from where I am now.

When I calibrated my suspension, DIS told me that the sport suspension wasn't detected. I don't know why.
You can still make it calibrate to where you want it by doing the math and putting those values in the calibration routine...

Ricky_Bobby, you have 20" wheels and 2-axles air suspension. I'd go with 707F/709R.
Personally, I would lower it another inch from that value.

That must assume the OEM tires are on the X and inflated to recommended pressure.

I just calibrated my ride height last week
bought gt1 with inpa/ncs/navcoder bundle from ebay
used INPA
very easy to do, it tells me to set height to 707 front 709 rear
the program is so easy use

F9 to access e53, than click on the ehc-2
than hit F6 to activate
F5 to calibrate
press F1 to open the calibration and just plug in the height difference you want in MMs

I measured my heights and my back right was higher than the left so when it asked for rear L - R
I just typed in -6 for right side to raise it slightly
typed 8 on both the front because I wanted it lower
press ok

2 seconds later the airide moves and your done

F10 to exit that screen
than you just drop your bags then raise it back to normal and recheck your heights to make sure its good



if you are near Canada BC Vancouver/delta/Richmond I can do it for a small fee

Thanks guys, obviously I will make sure tires are at proper pressure when I do the calibration next week, they should not be off by more than 1 psi or 2 at most currently as they were checked a week ago. I have Toyo tires but same sizes as stock, so no worries there. Regardless, 1 or 2 psi would not change my ride height by 40+ mm!

Obviously the last calibration that was done was way off, like I said if my "normal values" should be a height of 707/709 mm then I am approx. 42mm (1.6 inches) off! I will set it to default values first and see how it looks/rides, I may lower another half inch to make it an even 2 inches down from where I am currently at.


I have been looking at my car for the past year going "gosh it really looks high considering I have the sport suspension", I assumed it was right because before I got the car the PO got the suspension calibrated and module replaced, obviously it wasn't done at BMW. I used to put my car in the "access" position and say to myself that's what stock 4.8is ride height looks like! Haha.


Will update next week after playing around with DIS on the GT1 thanks to Neil (neilrmp) who is local to me. TwinsPoppa posted about a function in service functions about "setting the zero point" so I am going to try that function, before trying to do the calibration and "trick the air ride" by putting in positive values to lower, and negative values to raise, etc)

Don't forget "before and after" pictures. I don't recall seeing picture of your X at all, btw.

I've been doing a lot of maintenance in the past year, I had to have time to do proper upgrades and paint correction.

After all, who wants to see a swirled yet shiny X5, with things like faded side markers, cloudy headlights, dry rotted stock 18" tires/wheels, and faded stock grills? Among others.

I will do a proper (ride height before) and "after" of the air suspension next week, I am just wrapping up my left side wheel bearing/outer CV boot today, car is currently on 3 wheels. Once wheels are back on I can get the car washed and take some before pics.


EDIT:
According to my VIN I do have sport suspension settings so I will lower to factory ride height values of 707 Front/709 rear to start, I will see how it looks, then perhaps another 1/2" down from that at the most.

S221A 2 ACHS NIVEAUREGULIERUNG 2-axle self-levelling suspension
S226A SPORTLICHE FAHRWERKSABSTIMMUNG Sports suspension settings
S255A SPORT-LEDERLENKRAD Sports leather steering wheel
S321A EXTERIEURUMFAENGE IN WAGENFARBE Exterior parts in vehicle colour
P330A SPORTPAKET Sports package

Have made some progress lowering the X today to default values (my X5 ranged from 735 to 745 mm on each corner when we started, from bottom edge of 20" wheel to edge of fender), however it's not easy, as you have to keep checking by measuring and its hard to lower/raise in small incremements (like 1/4")

Started in Control module functions, where TwinsPoppa alluded to setting the zero point which is the best way to set default ride height, Raise or lower and set the zero point to where you want it, however I'm having trouble getting my corners even.

Right now the front right is just under 28", while the front rear is about 27.5", I'm still searching for a way to get the corners to even out by incrementally raising and lowering in small amounts and setting it as zero point. I've found that the raising and lowering in the control module function does so in 3/4" to 1" incremements, I'd like to be able to fine tune it if I can.

I think the zero point method of raising and lowering the X is a better method than the "tricking the module" method in ride height calibration, where you add mm's to lower the X and subtract mm's from ride height to raise it. I'm borrowing a friend's GT1 tonight so I will either play with it today or tomorrow and see if I can fine tune the ride heights further.

I had just lowered my 4.8iS on Sunday using DIS. In my case, the rear right sits about an inch higher. I measured from center of the wheel to the edge of the wheel well. GT1/DIS will ask you to enter measurement for each corner and it will do the calibration base on that.
Using TwinPoppa's guide, I enter 707mm (stock sport front with 20" wheels) + 25mm (I want to lower 1 inch all-around) = 732mm for the fronts. For the rear left, it's 709mm + 25mm = 734mm. Since the rear right is 1" higher, I entered 709mm + 50mm (2" lowered) = 759mm.
Now they are even 1" lowered all-around. Remember you have to be on level ground.
I send you a PM with my number if you need help.

I got you man, I just have to measure each corner and add the appropriate amount of mm to make it sit level, I will do another recalibration today. I definitely want the 4 corners to be even (rear should sit about 3mm higher anyway), I'm down to about 710mm now, on my lowest corner yesterday before I started lowering I was at 736mm.


My garage is level so it shouldn't be a problem, I will measure again today and try again to fine tune it. I'm sure I will get it right it just takes some tweaking, and there was rain on the way yesterday so I couldn't finish in my friends driveway.

You also want to be sure to add your 450lbs within the passenger compartment as instructed by the hunter alignment machine. I am using retaining wall bricks from my landscaping ;)

Yeah I know about the sandbag method for alignment but not sure if that's also necessary for setting default ride height? DIS does not mention to weigh the car down although they do mention a level surface. I have almost full tank of gas in the car and all tires are at 33 psi so I am good to go with that.

According to the hunter alignment machine you are supposed to set ride height w/ full tank of gas and 450lbs in the passenger compartment + 50lbs in the trunk.

I would assume it's trying to help you from having your 20's rub on the fender well's while running from the cops...

I'm no expert tho

while running from the cops after robbing Fort Knox of all the gold (500 lbs) in your trunk? lmfao!

To bring it down to standard height, you DON'T add or subtract anything from the actual measurement. The car will adjust itself to make it 707/709 standard height. You only add/subtract from the 707/709 number when you want to fool the computer into lowering or raising the car from the standard point.
Take your lowest corner for example: if you want to bring that down to standard height, you would enter exactly 710mm to the appropriate corner when ask by DIS. The computer will adjust itself (lower in this case) to be 707 or 709 (front or rear).
Take another example: let say your lowest corner is 705mm. When you enter this exact amount into DIS, it will raise that corner to 707 or 709 automatically. You don't add or subtract anything from the actual measurement of 705mm (I know you're thinking about that 2mm or 4mm, don't you?) if you ONLY want to bring it to the correct standard height.

In other word, forget that you ever know 707/709 is the standard number. That has nothing to do with calibrating your ride height to standard. All you need is the actual measurement that you made on each corner. You only need that number when you decide it's time to fool the computer.

Thanks tmv, you have the most recent success with this and are most familiar so I will try your methods later on. What I want to do is get my car to sit at an even baseline, so I have the exact 707/709mm on each corner (or at least close within a few mm's), then set it to default, and then I can evaluate further lowering from there (by adding mm's to the calibration in the original DIY)


So I take my EXACT amount that I have now on each corner, plug that into the calibration when asked on each corner, and the suspension should "correct itself" to the 707 and 709 values?

So in theory, with your corner that was 1" higher than the rest, if you were just calibrating to even out that corner and have the default heights all around, you would put in a value of 709 + 25mm = 734mm when asked since that is what you measured, and the suspension would level down to a value of 709mm since it is correcting for it? Am I understanding correctly?

In my case with the higher corner (1"): If I ONLY want to bring it down to standard point, I would enter the exact measurement that I made with the tape measure, which is ~734mm. YES, you understand it correctly.

Last time I calibrated, it took 5 passes of calibration get it where it should be. Each pass got it a little closer. Who knows why it behaves like this. The dealership had the same problem so I know it's not me...

Side note: Wouldn't it be so much easier if we had tape measures that were mm/cm only? I measure and then I have to google the conversion lol!

OK tmv, I will do your method tonight and see what I come up with as far as the default height goes to after the calibration. At least I know how to even out the corners (drives my OCD crazy!).

So even though I set a different zero point last night the computer will still remember the default values when I go to to a ride height calibration and set it accordingly? I didn't mess anything up?

^You didn't set the zero point. That number is memorized in the computer for each wheel size. It can NOT be changed (but it can be fooled ;) )
What you enter last night is your computing measurement number (not even the actual measurement) That's why you're not at standard ride height now since it's NOT the actual measurement.
sockethead, I'm not sure about your situation. I remembered vaguely something in DIS stating that the calibration will be carried out after (or during) normal driving. Did you do back-to-back calibration without driving the X? In my case, the computer did lower right after the calibration procedure and I double check with the tape measure. I lowered it 1" all-around.

I see, so the million dollar question is whether my ride height will correct itself to default of 707/709 when I calibrate it later on, for some reason I'm not crossing my fingers it will go to the standard 4.8is height, the 20" 'non-sport' values are 722/724 so I am interested to see if it sets default for sport value or non-sport with 20" wheels.

I feel like even though I have sports suspension the standard height remembered for my 3.0 has to be different than a 4.8is, then again I can't really ever remember someone posting on here that has a 3.0 with air suspension like I do, let alone seeing what their ride height looks like. And also, even if the 3.0's that have posted with air suspension there are probably even less that have 20" wheels and have had the ride height calibration set for them.

Will report findings later, very interested to see how this turns out.

When you had it at the standard ride height, you will know what number the computer used. Then "modify" it to your liking. Let's not confuse yourself for now :D
I would say that it'll set to "sport" number since it can see that you have that equipped, regardless of wheel size.
Text/call me when it's done. I don't have time to go on the forum much in the evening, but I want to know how it turns out.
GL, J.

To achieve an alignment that is best when driving, the added weight makes sense, though 450lbs in most cases would include a couple with 2 good sized kids and a suitcase just under the big charge for checking a bag. That's unless they only eat at MacDonalds.

Loading it up to be sure it doesn't rub, unless it rubs when you lower it should not be necessary as the system should compensate for any added weight.

Any lowering will change the alignment specs to some degree. To be sure how far you are lowering the X, you should drive back and forth a couple of car lengths and stop abruptly in both directions to let the suspension adjust each time you make a change. When you get it set where you want it you should get the alignment checked

Which is precisely why I am calibrating the ride height before my alignment, I just finished up all new front suspension work and did my wheel bearings/cv axle boots in the front and wrapped that up this past weekend, so I'd like to get the ride height to where I want it before I get aligned. God knows I don't want to tweak anything else or align it again for at least a year! Lol

No, you don't. I did much of my suspension maintenance and upgrades in stages. They should have least sent me a Christmas card for all the $$$ I spent.

Get a lifetime alignment from Firestone ;) and pre-load your X with weights.

Good idea! I didn't know they have the right equipement.

I'm sure Firestone has equipment to do alignment but I think what tmv is saying is that he brings the weights with him to Firestone so they can do a true BMW alignment procedure by the book.

Correct. I pre-load my bimmer and tell the technician to set it to my spec.

Hopefully I am past the frequent alignments but good to know.

I am going this weekend to have firestone give me the lifetime alignment and bringing my weights...

And yes, he agreed to align it to MY specifications!

No more ultimate tire shredding experience :)

^Care to share your spec?

I have everything set per BMW spec except toe settings as close to 0 as possible.

I'm going to stop by and talk to them. There is a new location nearby. I tried other alignment shops in the area, they all said they could only do the front so I figured Firestone was out of the question--just goes to show that it is never good to assume.

Here's my iS after 1" lowered using DIS. Pictures taken with an iPad
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5a0d7b3f.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc5cb208c.jpg

Looks great!

how is the ride quality?

My behind can't tell the different, so does my wife's :D

Got it!

705mm all around on each corner, I actually didn't have to run the calibration routine because last night I went to measure each corner and 3 were already at 705mm (27.75 inches), the rear right corner was 1/2" lower however. I went into the Service Functions "set the zero point" and just raised the corner once, it went to a perfect 705mm, I definitely got lucky. So I just set the zero point again front and rear and all corners are even.


Rides so much nicer, I texted tmv a "before and after", huge difference. I might lower it another half inch if I get a front spoiler or 4.6 kit, but stock 4.8is height looks great to me right now.

It feels good when things go your way. No more "off-road ready" stance :D
I'll let you know about the decorative skid plate.

you saw the "before" pic, talk about 4-wheelin down the highway lol!

thanks for all the help again :thumbup:

Any time :beerchug:

Man I want to lower mine. I can't find anyone here in tampa that can lower my X.Attachment 59593

^ Make a trip up to Atlanta ;)

The e53 does look bad ass when it's sittin' right

I may have to redo it once more, I put it to "access level" yesterday when I parked at the mall LOL and I notice in my garage yesterday I am sitting about a quarter to 3/8 higher now, is this just a by product of the driving around I did and the suspension "re-settling?"

If so I will redo the calibration once more, set it a bit lower than I would normally want it, and expect a somewhat higher "settlement height" after driving. I was about 705mm last week, its probably almost at 715mm now give or take a few mm.

EDIT: Will be borrowing a friends GT1 tonight and calibrating again, then after driving I will measure again, it seems the suspension does have a tendency to settle itself after driving which may have been my error (looked great sitting in the garage on all 4 corners but I didn't drive to let it adjust itself, after a few days of driving and playing with the access level while parking it seems to have settled slightly higher than what it was the other day.

Yes, to be sure your X is sitting level you need to at least drive back and forth a few feet and stop abruptly each time and do so each time you make a single change. Better yet around in tight circles at good rate of speed and then drive back and check again. Make sure all your tires are inflated to the same pressure.

The alignment will change so you should get that checked when you are done.

Sounds like fun, I'm trying to get this shit right so that I can get my alignment and have the corners all even! So is that a normal thing after driving around for the suspension to "pop up" a bit

(i.e. should I set it a bit lower in anticipation of the suspension raising somewhat after driving around?)

If you lower a corner to the height you want and then drive it the height should decrease more than it did before the driving. The converse is true. It may be that when you lower the right front it is raising the left rear but the amount you are changing it would be very very little if at all. You can test that by dropping the left front a few lbs. and see if the right rear height increases.

Your X should have been in alignment when you started process.

If you are trying to get it exact you will be at it a long time and the first time you do something that changes the camber it will change ride height. It is very hard to tell it is not level unless you are out more than a half inch and the alinement after will likely will close that gap. If I get mine a little over or under 1/2 inch it is good enough for government work and it looks level to me, though I am cross eyed in one eye.

If you are lowering the height and after driving it is higher, I don't know what that could other than perhaps if you are checking height with engine off the pressure increases when the engine is on.

Totally understand and thanks for the tips, I figured when the suspension settles the height should be slightly lower, kind of funny how mine popped up a bit. I understand I can't get it exact but I may play with it further in anticipation of it going up slightly, like I said last week it was just about 3/8" lower after calibrating. So I might put it down 3/4" in anticipation of it coming up 3/8" if that is what the normal "settled height" is that I currently have going on.

Sounds good!

If its any consequence, I NEVER had mine exactly level. Its probably because I could never be sure I was on a perfectly level surface. Weasel told me its okay to be within a certain tolerance. I think it was 1/4"-1/2". I can't remember.

All my corners for the most part are within a 1/4" which I am happy about, it was weird how after driving a few days I seem to have settled slightly higher than what I set it at last week.

I have been doing your "set the zero point" method Twins and it works easily for the most part, basically click, see where it settles, measure, and either set the axle or raise/lower till it is where you want it.

I'm a hair above the spec for stock 4.8is height now (715mm), might have a fellow member over next week to do his fog light bulbs on his newly acquired E70, he has GT1 so I may lower slightly again then :)

I have the attached links on the rear of my X. This would be an easy way to lower your X and never have to mess with it again. You would still have the capability to lower it even more with the method you are using.
Discovery 3 4 Air Suspension lowering Links Module | eBay

I have the attached links on the rear of my X. This would be an easy way to lower your X and never have to mess with it again. You would still have the capability to lower it even more with the method you are using.
Discovery 3 4 Air Suspension lowering Links Module | eBay

Here is the direct link for your X.

BMW x5 4 8IS lowering Links Module Fully Adjustable | eBay

FYI, there used to be a set in the for sale section, from 525iT_Feen. Not sure if he still has them.

I tried to lower the X and noticed the negative camber on the front ..
Should that really be the consequence?

The camber shouldn't be as negative in the front as in the rear, visually. Are you sure you aren't noticing toe? The two can be confused easily. Regardless, there is some adjustment for both in the front, IIRC the spec for camber in front is -.5 degrees or so, as opposed to a range of -1.0 to -2.0 in the rear.

Update to this thread, for whatever reason, after working on and replacing my seized tie rods in the front, my ride height settled itself a half inch higher, so I will have to recalibrate again, definitely have some visual reverse rake going on, and nothing was messed up on the sensors when I was under the car either. I may have to invest in a dedicated laptop and INPA...

If a vehicle is lowered the result will be an increase in negative camber. If a vehicle is raised the result is an increase in positive camber. Either change requires alignment.

When work is done on any adjustable suspension part the vehicle should be aligned. If the result is also that the vehicle sets higher the vehicle should be aligned before the ride height is recalibrated.

So you think I should get aligned with my reverse rake before recalibrating the ride height (aka will the techs lower the front end to be level before performing alignment?)

I would get an alignment AFTER you have the ride height set to your liking.

The reason I suggested after is that it is my understanding that the increased height is associated with the tie rod change. If the ride height has changed for another reason then I agree with you. Either way I would feel better if I had an alignment re-check after all was done.

Well my "sensor arms" are fine and all else looks ok under my X, so you're probably right, for whatever reason, changing the tie rods had changed the ride height in the front to be higher. I'm going to call the dealership and actually ask them if part of the procedure of the alignment is to level out the car, if so, then I would think that leveling the front axle would be part of the procedure and thus they could do it at the same time.

Basically, I know I sound cheap but if part of the alignment procedure is to make sure the corners are already at the proper ride height I don't expect to be charged for an additional "ride height calibration" procedure in addition to the alignment.

I assume you have driven your X since you replaced the tie rods so that the suspension has settled.

I have always had alignments done at the dealer. Once or twice I was not happy and they did a re-check at no charge.

Yes I have driven it around the block a few miles, it rides like hell so I am not driving it much more until it goes to the dealer (they are 4 miles away from my house). I guess I will drop off for alignment and have them note that the front end should be a half inch lower to match the rear, its not like all 4 corners are off, I'm sure that should be within the specs of doing the alignment (making sure each corner is level/proper height)

I just looked at my sensor arms again and they are fine, I think it was caused by me jacking the car up with the wheels turned at an angle, I've never had an issue with jacking it up with the wheels straight. Regardless, I'm finally going to invest in the Romanian software/cable and a dedicated laptop for installing INPA/DIS and NCSExpert, way too sick of not being able to diagnose my issues.

OK So I definitely have some issues here, all 4 corners are off and I just had SELF LEVEL SUSP INACT come on yesterday, is this caused by the massive deviation of ride heights between the corners?


Measured from bottom of rim flange to just under fender arch as per factory:

Drivers Rear: 698 mm
Drivers Front: 723 mm
Passengers Rear: 714 mm
Passengers Front: 742 mm


I'm guessing the error thrown is due to the corners being way off (I think there is a tolerance of 10 mm or so), but wanted to hear some opinions. The height stays constant for the most part so I don't think the rear bags are leaking, for whatever reason my heights are just massively off.

Front air struts are new, air compressor was replaced, height sensor arms look ok (although I will check later), I'm hoping its just because of the difference in values corner to corner.

Differences in tire inflation will make a difference in your measurements.

Tires are all inflated to same measurement

What is the reason is for the inactive message in DIS?

Working on getting that for you socket, my DIS cable is in the mail as we speak on its way to me.

I actually went for a drive last night with the wife again and no error on the dash at startup, and no error during the drive or until I parked back in the garage again, so I don't think I have any major issues here (when my air compressor was dead the SELF LEVEL SUSP INACT never went away until cleared by DIS!), I'm thinking the large deviation in ride heights creates a "soft error" that may pop on and off, but not a level 2 error like the compressor being inactive, where when that error pops up it is more of a system failure and can not be cleared even by DIS unless you fix the problem.

Here are my current measurements again on each corner:

Drivers Rear: 698 mm
Drivers Front: 723 mm
Passengers Rear: 714 mm
Passengers Front: 742 mm

RB, did you ever get this figured out? I'm need to set mine as well using INPA.

Thanks,

Jason

Yeah man! Once I got INPA and GT1 loaded it was easy! I had a few errors from my last calibration and probably the suspension work, I initially tried to recalibrate with INPA but I'll be honest that program doesn't make that much sense to me (probably because I have more experience with DIS / GT1)

So I actually went into DIS (do you have both programs? I assume you do, I bought the Romanian cable with all the programs), cleared any errors from the EHC module, and there is actually a function that will allow you to raise/lower by corner, as well as raise/lower front or rear axle. It's not the entire calibration routine but after you set your corners up, there is another option which says

"Set zero point, default ride height" - front axle, rear axle


So what I did was lower and raise a couple of the corners to get them as even as I could, then I just "set zero point" on front axle and set on rear axle, haven't had a problem with my ride height since. I'm sitting perfectly at stock 4.8is height right now, and actually set a hair lower in the front to make a nice slightly forward rake look. About 28" wheel to fender at all corners though.

PM me if you have any problems Big J! Always ready to help a brotha out!

Sweet!
Yes, I have DIS and will get it running tonight. May have to get a Starbucks to stay awake while it loads....Zzzzz!

I tinkered with INPA last night and managed to get my rears to stay even at 28.5" but, the front left is 1/2" lower (27.5") than the right side. I too want a lower stance and will probably set them like TMV did.

Thanks for the tip and will let you know how it rides!

I hear ya, I drove myself crazy too, its never going to be perfect but should be within 1/4" or so from side to side, obviously assuming tires inflated the same and on level ground.

Also it will settle somewhat when driving, but like I said you can lower/raise one corner at a time then "set the zero point" on the axle you are done with, and that should work out nicely for you. it will take some playing around but you'll get it!

Looked through the thread since I am about to have to calibrate the height on my wife's 4.8is. I just installed new front CV axles and all four air bags (popped rear when jacking up the front to replace the axles). Got rear bags replaced and the front popped... Has anyone here tried using the Autel MaxiDAS 708? So far I have used it for reading the sensors (front left voltage pegged, new sensor on the way). Works great for reading everything and raising and lowering each bag. Just curious is anyone else has experience with this.

Any benefits or consensus as to INPA vs. GT1/DIS (I have both from our Romanian friend) for ride height calibration? My pump seems to come on a bit more frequently than I would guess it should.

I'd like to recalibrate prior to doing anything else and see what happens...

DIS is what I used. It has diagnostic routine as well as re calibration routine.
If your pump is coming on more that usual, you'll want to test for leaks. Have you replaced any of the bags yet?

The two front bags were replaced by a dealer about 5 years ago. Rears have never been replaced. 79k mile cali truck, 2004.

Pump comes on for about 1 minute in the mornings and sometimes comes at various times throughout the day. Because I've never owned an X with air ride suspension before I just get paranoid about what is normal and what is not when it comes to this system ;)

Yea definitely check the rear bags for leaks. If you see any wear marks or threads showing, they need to be replaced. You can spay them down with soapy water and check for bubbles.
You don't want the compressor to run too much or it will burn out.

Ride height calibration won't change the amount the compressor runs. The system will just pump up until the programmed ride height is reached regardless of what the value is...

i have to check my ride height and make sure it is set to OEM specs. i just noticed my rear tires have excessive wear on the inside. i do notice the rear wheels have a little negative camber. i thought that was normal for these vehicles. i just ordered a set of DWS and will getting an alignment after checking the ride height.

Les Shwab a safe bet?

Excessive wear on the inside of the rear tires usually indicates that the rear ball joints need to be replaced.
You can use a tape measure to verify the ride height. Here are the values in mm:

_______________ 17"____18"____19"____20"___these are wheel sizes
front axle_______685____697____710____722
rear axle________687____699____712____724
sport fr_________670____682____695____707
sport rr_________672____684____697____709

EDIT: forgot to tell you to measure from the bottom lip of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel well opening...

to the guy above socket, the wear on the inside of your tires has nothing to do with your ride height, or camber.

zero out the toe in the rear of the car and make sure you don't have worn wishbone or worn lower ball joints, and get an alignment, camber within spec, toe set to .01, you will save your new set of tires.

whats the difference between front axle and sport fr values above?

btw im at 77k miles. i would like to get it at the correct ride height, install the new tires, and get it on the alignment rack to see the specs and / or if there are any suspension issues. my rear might be sitting a little low

les shwab a safe bet? i was thinking about firestone, if they can do lifetime aligments. anyone have any experience with them?

front and rear were sitting a little low. 670's for both. raised it up to 707 and 709. hopefully it is just an alignment issue.

Dreaded AUTO LEVEL SUSPENSION INACTIVE
 

:yawn:
Hi again X5 peops

I am keen to know the answer to this!

background...
8 months ago bought an X5 4.8is with full BMW service history.
It is a Dec 2004 vehicle & has now done 85K miles only
It is lovely...... immaculate...... however......

On the service history it has had the suspension air bags replaced.

A week ago I got the thing I had most feared.......
Dreaded AUTO LEVEL SUSPENSION INACTIVE notification.
Light went off in 'uppy downy' control & tyre flat indicator also came on!

Pls help...
The car is sitting level.

OK my pal runs reputable local garage.
We put it on the diagnostic - wiped the fault so that we could level the car. It was not much out.

I set it to the 722mm & 724mm settings - hope that is right. (with tape measure only).
The pump said it was running just over 13bars when it activated - which seems to be correct. We could move individual corners of the car (or axle at a time with no probs)
Also checked the 7.5 & 30amp fuses behind boot side panel.
We pressed the button (on diagnostic) that says set zero level - front then rear - again car stays level - & remembers height - no sag.

The original codes were ...
#32 EHC: CAN Bus
#74 EHC: Accumulator pressure remains constant (accumulator filling requested)

We can then raise/lower the car up and down on the usual interior switch/control.

However 100yds down road and the dreaded message returns - all switches off again - but car level!

We delved further in with the diagnostic - now this is were I don't understand the terminology!!

There was a page that said ...
DEVIATION RIDE LEVEL
Front Left 17 mm
Front Right 121 mm
Right Left 162 mm
Rear right 182 mm

Why is the front right so different.
Can anyone shed light on what this all means....

Also how the heck to I get rid of the puncture (flat tyre) yellow light/sign...

I know that there is lots on this fault generally - can anyone help...pls pls.

Is getting me down big time!

Will I ever cure this?

M :cool:

M I posted in your other thread

HAHAH RB I'll send you one hahahahaha

X5MonsterBMW: I feel your pain, I believe I documented my issues earlier in this thread and never posted the final answer. Exact same issues you list, final answer was the EHC-II module. When it fails it will report the ride height deviation and also trigger the FTM. I had replaced the bags (damaged while doing other work), and replaced the height sensor on the corner that reported off. Funny enough it was the front left on mine with almost the same readings as yours.

New module from ECS and a program update fixed the problem:-(


Brent

Here we go again!
 

Ride height?
 

Hmmm have you measured lately? On my 3.0 I'm about 1/4" lower than sport height (707 front, 709 rear) and may lower a bit more for the summer. The sport/non sport heights are on the first pages of this thread

Got it - off to measure what he did!
Stay cool...
M

PS: might need that subframe bushing tool at some point!!

EHC-II Modules
 

The module itself was around $700. I have all of the tools and SW, but a reliable local shop was able to install and program for $150 (I work two jobs and just didn't have the time).

The way to know for sure is have your local shop guy hook up and watch the voltage readings live while bouncing each corner. You will see the voltage range for normal deflection. What I would see is the LF was out of range (pegged) on the voltage (even after the new sensor was installed).

The ride height deviation error is a direct result. The measurement is out of range and I believe the entire system is shut down as a protection mechanism. Just imagine the pump continuing to inflate the one that is out... Boom.

After reading all the threads (the flat tire monitor is another dead give away) and all of my own work I resigned myself to the module change. That issue has not been seen since, that was 5 months ago.

Good luck on resolving your problems.

Brent

can someone walk me through the DIS menus??? I replaced my two front struts, but I noticed the car is "tilted" to the driver side.

Do you have inpa. It is much simpler with that. As far as dis, I haven't fired that shit up in over 2 years, so not sure myself lol.

'ere we go 'ere we go 'ere we go (again)
 

Some great info in this thread.

agreed
 

agreed
:-)

So it seems I may have caused more grief than anything.
A few weeks ago I was playing with INPA and ride height values with my left rear. I never saved anything (that I know of) and since then I've been having the low left rear air bag issue.
I thought I was having a slow leak in left rear airbag.
So I just installed my two new Arnott airbags (about 3 hours labor with the help of a friend when it came to bag clips and removal/install) and when I put the fuses back in and lowered the vehicle, the left rear is still low. in the same spot as before making me feel as tho I wasted time and money on this. OOPS. I guess the airbags should have a refresh anyhow.
I guess I didnt realize that my verion of INPA doesnt make ride height changes as soona s I press OK (when putting in different values to adjust height) but next time I startede the X5 it adjusted things. I never put two and two together till after the air bag replacement.

There's an ecu reset....it's combination of keyboard shift and F*......

I'll log-in on my INPA later and let you know.

Ok checked my INPA....

got to Chassis>>EHC2>>F7(Memory)....then Shift + F4 (Ecu Reset)

Hope this helps!

If you have DIS there is an air suspension diagnostic/calibration routine that will get you back to normal. Also I found it easier to change ride height using that routine

I'm sure that's your problem. I screwed up mine once too... During the calibration it will ask you to take measurements. Make sure you pay attention and take the measurements at the right point and use the the correct units
I screwed it up and the ride height was maxed out and hard as a rock. Then I ran over the AC adapter for my laptop and shorted out the laptop. It was a week before I could get another laptop and reload the software so I could fix it.

are you using DIS 4.4? I dont see this option in DIS 5.7.
INPA allows me to put in values to raise my rear end but nothing happens after I press OK.
INPA/DIS4.4 & 5.7 allow me to manually activate the compressors but as soon as they finish raising the vehicle begins to drop back to height it was.
I'm convinced I screwed up some ride height values last time (2 weeks ago) I was INPA now. now to fix them (phew, at least its not a mechanical issue). but new air bags wont hurt either. the old ones looked cracked and very soft.

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i cant track this down for some reason in DIS. will look further.
Will also look at Jopecasa's suggestion too but INPA was not allowing me to change ride height.
EDIT: it was allowing me to input values BUT nothing was immediately happenning after I pressed OK. It required me to restart the vehicle and THEN it adjusted the ride height. what a pain in the butt.

so using DIS 4.4 I managed to manually adjust height by activating the raise left, raise rear axel features to the same matching heights then EXTREMELY QUICKLY I pressed the Set Zero Point which then held the suspension at this new height of 710mm in rear. Fronts are not adjustable and sit about 700mm. then I needed to perform a Error Delete using INPA or DIS 4.4/5.7 (which I use as I've never done it with INPA before)

can you post a link to Twins Poppa's guide for DIS please? I'm using a tablet and tapa-talk app and this is garbage for searching compared to a real PC/laptop. Even a google search shows no link for a guide by Twins Poppa

thanks TMV. I cleared the SLI.
So i dont know where in DIS 4.4 you get to type values in for ride height. I only see that option in INPA.
so i replaced my airbags for no real reason i guess. BUT I have to say the rear suspension seems so stiff/new again. I'll keep the cracking airbags for emergency tho as they still work, just a bit tired.

You'd be better off throwing the old airbags away. Even though they may look ok, As they wear, they become porous. When that happens, the compressor runs more than it should and burns out. I went though this with our 4.8is it was an expensive night mare.
I think I had a newer version of DIS. There is a diagnostic routine that tests the whole air suspension system. During the test, you measure the height of the vehicle to make sure all sides are equal. It was during that portion of the test where I lowered the vehicle using false values...
I still have DIS but we sold the X5 years ago so I can't tell you exactly how to do it...

i will have to connect DIS 5.7 and try to track that down. i couldnt find it anywhere.

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Very old thread revival! But hoping someone can help me out please.

I have an E53 4.8is with front and rear auto levelling air suspension. I’ve done some work to the front end, and had to remove and reinstall the front ride height sensors and had to use DIS to reset an error code (broke a sensor clip and had to drive for a week without it...).

I tried clearing the codes - which didn’t work - so the went into the module and cleared the codes and then set the level sensors to zero - which I think may have been a mistake.... as I’m not sure how the car was actually sitting with auto levelling inactive.

I think I need to recallibrate the ride height - but wanted to check I understand the process properly...

I think I park the car level, measure the front and rear heights and insert those figures into DIS to callibrate the ride height. Then zero the height sensors??

(Has my zeroing the height sensors/resetting zero messed-up what each sensor thinks to be the zero point (particularly where my car may have been artificially too high as self levelling was inactive for a week or so) - and if I simply insert the measured heights into DIS will it auto recalibrate - without me zeroing things again (in which case what’s the zero function about??).

Many thanks if anyone can help!

Watching this as I have almost the same issue. I tried to correct it with INPA but it does no know the default or zero point to calibrate from. My sensor readings are all over the place regardless of how the actual car is sitting.

See my response to Bruce's other thread here:

https://xoutpost.com/1125699-post4.html

It's been a while since I've used DIS, but keep in mind that in INPA, you're almost always dealing with "raw" sensor values. i.e. IIRC, the ride height sensor values you see in INPA aren't converted to any particular ride height measurement. DIS may perform that conversion for you to make it easier for the dealer tech to use, but INPA works at a lower level than that.

You really don't need to care what the sensor values in INPA show. You only care that your ride height is correct. You enter the difference between your current measured ride height and desired ride height, and use that number to calibrate in INPA. You'll end up with new, equally meaningless, sensor readings in INPA, but if you've done everything correctly, your ride height will now be where you want it.

Thanks for the above. From this thread and similar ones - I think that in INPA you enter the difference from where each corner sits vs the preprogrammed ride height for that car (for the sport suspension models this seems to be the figures set out above - being 707/709. If you want a non-standard ride height eg to lower the car, then you inflate the measurement so the car performs a larger calculation and drops/raises the car more than necessary) and INPA will then move the car by the amount typed in.

Whereas... In DIS, you enter the full height measured on each corner, and
DIS does the maths (based on the pre-programmed values mentioned above) and adjusts the ride-height accordingly?

My car is not massively off from the look of it - but it’s difficult to find somewhere level... maybe a petrol station forecourt - or shopping centre car park! I’ll have a play and report back...

Thanks again.

ride height 4.8
 

Hi - I did have similar issues a few years back... as far as I remember I raised & lowered the car via a diagnostic machine (my pal local garage)... I measured correct height (bottom wheel rim to wheel arch to get correct height) ... the readings from sensors come in at all different values - this does not matter - you then tell the diagnostic it is level & module remember those figures. If one corner sags more than 9 to 11mm after that, SLS inactive will come up on dash......
However I could not get the system to re-activate even after clearing codes.
I went to local independent BMW guy who had more sophisticated S/W.
He had SW prog that takes you step by step through the process.
It is weird - you cant stop mid program or it messes up.... he showed me it step by step till it completes - again involves raising & lowering to correct (tape measure) height... then locking off etc etc... we had 2 big guys sitting in the boot/trunk so that when it pumped up we were sure it was correct & stable. Then locked off (saved) various voltage values as 'level' The guy charged me £40 as it was quite a quick process... 20mins ish. Hope this helps. Malc :thumbup:

Thank you for this. It does help. I think you are correct in that there is a process that needs to be followed step by step to get it 100%. I was rather hoping that somebody have this for INPA?

Does anybody know what generates "Error 116"? I know what it it means, but want to know where it is coming from.

There is a big risk here of me going out and buying a new compressor only to have the same error. This would not be funny. My wife is already not amused as it is. he sight of me heading off up into the garage at night, with a laptop, has got her thinking stuff she should not be thinking.

BMW Porn !
 

Hi again - ha ha - yeah you could be caught watching BMW porn! :rofl:
OK Code 116
I am no expert but have had this too!
In fact I have historically had every code under the sun on the 4.8is suspension... I kind of understand it now... firstly with that code check for airbag leaks.. washing up liquid & water in plant sprayer...
If OK it is probably weak compressor... rebuild it with a new seal kit (bagpipingandy's kit on Ebay) ... search e-bay on item 151136257007 - about £25 when I did mine... will take you 30mins
My kit worked for over a year but then had same problem again because of scored cylinder head on compressor - he also has a kit for that... 1 hour fix & code has never re-appeared He even has a vid on you tube shows you how to do it all.
You will get there in the end.... honest! LOL
Best
Malc :cool:

Have saved those ebay items - thanks!!!

I am about to give up on INPA installed DIS last night on my Surface hoping that will work.

This sucks.

I always used DIS on our 4.8is to calibrate the suspension. There is a whole diagnostic/calibration routine that tells you exactly what to do and when. I found it very easy to use. Just make sure you use the proper measurements mm/cm. I messed that up once and it maxed out the suspension... Looked goofy as hell all jacked up.

What DIS install did you follow? Does it run OK? I'm looking for a decent DIS walk-through... :thumbup:

I used a combination of the software included with my cable and a pre-made EasyDIS v44 UNIX VM I stumbled upon torrent. I'm loading it inside my Windows XP VM which has INPA 5.01 and EDIBAS 6.4.3 installed. I understand how it works now (I think) and finally have DIS talking to the Diagnostic Head. My EDIBAS/INPA install appears to be working now as well at the same time so it SHOULD work.

I may have the wrong cable though, which sucks because I only seen to be able to connect to the engine and trans modules even after soldering/bridging pins 7+8 on my cable.

I think this is the root of my problems. Won't the compressor burn up if either of these conditions exist though? Or does the EHC module sense a fault the compressor and cut voltage to it if it's seized? What is the likelihood a compressor needs to be replaced entirely?

I really need to bench test my compressor and see if it fires up.

Some!! Not all faults will stop the compressor from running. INPA will normally bypass this in “hand control” mode, allowing you to operate the suspension via INPA.


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Need Advise
 

Hello,

I have a X5 4.4 2003. 2 axle suspension. Trying to calibrate the EHC but what I don't understand is why is the deviation for front left sensor shows "-2200mm" and others show around "130mm". How do it get the front left sensor deviation corrected. Any advise will be appreciated. I Have been trying to calibrate it since 3 days now with no success.

What happens is when I drive the car after the calibration, the car drops down and the warning appears with fault code 64 distortion plausibility.

If using inpa? on >Calibration/Set Height you have to ignore the deviation figures.

What you have to do is get the truck 100% level.
Then measure from the ground to the fender center via the wheel center.
The difference between that measurement and the stated default is what you are need to correct, regardless of any "Deviation" numbers.

TIP: get a bit of paper & a pen and write down all four corner measurements BEFORE you start to enter them into the system. Ideally you only want to do this once.

With inpa: Make sure that you have cleared any errors prior to entering your numbers.

Engine on
Drivers door ONLY open.
Enter measurements
Close drivers door
Watch car re-calibrate.
Give it a few minutes to finish & settle.
Remove inpa etc.
Turn engine off, remove keys, lock car, wait 15 minutes.
Go back and check that the settings are still good by using the Manual dash switch, to raise and lower the car.

Do you enter the difference between measured values and default values or do you just enter exactly what you measured?

Apologies. It’s the difference between the default and your measured height.

Here we go again... same as it ever was...
 

Arrrrrgh!
Hi folks.... I've turned up back on this thread like a bad penny!

Quick question to the experts re: ride height again...... again..... again.....

Having restored my compressor with the 'ring' & new cyl head couple years back, my air suspension has worked perfectly ever since - SLS inactive once when I went to South France (v hot) & my YAW sensor under centre console fried... anyway.... back to the ol' subject that we all love!!!!

I have had the car (ride height) levelled (re-calibrated) twice since then - nothing major but whilst replacing the odd bit or suspension arm had it done whilst there.

I have always used my indie BMW guy to do this - he charges peanuts and once did not charge me at all once..... I watched him do it - loaded up the car (full tank & lots KG's) & plugged his machine in... goes through a sequence (& mine as 4.8 was set at the sport level) & at the end (regardless of resistance readings from sensors) sets the default zero level.

Lately my ABS has been cutting in (fighting back when not wanted)... turns out that if a single front height is wrong by over 30mm it in turn causes the steering wheel to be slightly off kilter when driving straight - this acts with the steering angle sensor & YAW & confuses the ABS system.... but no faults or codes show......... when pumped level problem desists.

OK - here it is - sorry for pre-amble.
I'm RHD
My NSF height is 40mm below where it should be - other 3 are fine - no leaks etc - all functioning - but always returns to this!

BMW guy says that car thinks it is level - so keeps returning there.

Q... can I sort this myself?? I can raise & lower corners on my pal's machine but cannot then set zero. If so what machine & S/W do I need - can I buy it cheap?? HELP..... if not how would I sort this (pump up NSF by 40mm) & set zero level? Is there another system that maybe a local garage has...... pls advise on spec.

Another couple of guys had this - one had a bent track arm from hitting a pothole - the other had a knackered (distorted) little plastic arm from sensor to little mini ball joint. No faults but car not level!

Another guy levelled his by rotating the sensor bracket very very slightly in order to demand more/less pump in that specific bag...... is this legit - or asking for trouble...??

Pls help - as here we go again!!!

V best
malc

Is still anybody here ???

looks like you already have a good idea on what to do.
You’ll just have to get under it and try those things. Nothing is easy when it comes the this suspension.
I liked using DIS to adjust/calibrate the height. It has a complete diagnostic routine for the suspension in addition to calibration.
If one corner is always off, you can just adjust your measurements during calibration to compensate.

Can someone tell me how can i run my 4.8is low ?
I mean to stay allways low the suspension...

During the calibration process, you put in false readings to trick it into lowering the suspension. So if you want to lower it, you would trick it into thinking it’s higher than it actually is.
There was a chart somewhere here on the forum years ago that listed all the measurements.

And how i do that ? Can i do with INPA ?

I never used INPA. I always used DIS but if your inputting measurements from the hub to the wheel well like you do in DIS, it’s those measurements you use change and lower the vehicle

Finally got my INPA working and want to try to calibrate mine. I will follow these steps but I measure from the ground or bottom lip of the wheel?

I measured from the ground vertically up through the wheel centre to the arch.


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This is the correct measurment !!

https://ibb.co/vs7VZ9f

Hope is working now the link, because i can't upload directly here a pic from my phone, so i have to upload it to this website.

Got it, thanks Gogubjp.

So the 4.8is has sport suspension as standard correct?

I just went and measured mine and front is at 724mm and rear was 711mm from bottom lip of the wheel to bottom of fender.

So I enter 724-707 = 17 or 707-724 = -17?

Always write/code like normal when you want to lower (17 positive), and always write/code when you want to rise (-17 minus).

But you need a pen and a papel to write down the number, to do exactlly the correct measurment, so all wheels to be the same (left rear with right rear, and left front the same with right front)....i mean, when i lower mine, was like this lf16,5/ rf17, lr19,5/ rr21.

Hope you understand what i'm saying, good luck 👍

Once your done with the calibration process, shut off vehicle. Restart and go for a short drive then recheck height.


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I just ordered new tires so I will do this after I get them on.


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You can do that. But, that’s why you measure from the lower rim lip. So that different tires don’t affect ride height.

Haha you're right, didn't realize that!


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4.8is Ride Height Calibration
 

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but if I have deleted air suspension for lowering springs and dampers. What do I set the ride height to in INPA. Do I change the default to what I measure? Or do I change the range/deviation to reflect the height it sits at now?

Most of the replies here are regarding lowering via factory air. Just trying to recalibrate for new ride height.


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INPA will show you the default height measurements for the type of suspension and wheel size.

Then you measure your current height and see if you need to raise or lower compared to default height and enter difference.

But you deleted it so I'm sure its of no use.

You could of just lowered to your liking it with this method if you kept the air suspension.

I personally went to 1/2" lower than defaults today.


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So the ride height monitoring is strictly used for the active suspension. Nothing else. Not for the FTM or the active headlights?


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Active headlights reference ride height to self/auto level. FTM/TPSM is not related to ride height. The measurements from BMW are taken from bottom of wheel to fender arch bottom so tire height (pressure) does not affect it.




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Yep, as mr_robot stated, the ride height is measured (by the car's sensors...) as the difference between the body of the car and the axle (via the suspension arm). A flat tire doesn't change this relationship so the ride height cannot be used for FTM. :thumbup:

Thanks guys.


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For those who tricked the car to go lower, when you press the access mode, does it now go even lower?!

Yes it will go lower but remember, when you reach a certain sped, I can’t remember the mph exactly, it will go back to the normal ride height

I think I've heard the speed is 25mph. Recently a new car to me was calibrated with INPA and I drove out my neighborhood to test only to have the car bottom out after I reached 25, locking a front wheel and blowing the front right CV clean apart. I was surprised that even if there's a ride height sensor problem the car would be able to bottom out like that. At this point I suspect the PO/Dealer did strut work and did not replace the bump stops. Check for these and be careful!

This is the first I hear of this on the forum. I’ve had air out of my springs and I am 100% sure I could drive the car around. I’ve also heard of quite a few bag failures and the car just becomes ultra bumpy and bouncy, but still drives no problem.

So I have to agree. Someone did some stupid shit to your car and failed at putting it back together. I replaced my bags with complete Arnott units with the shock, so not sure where the bump stop it.

There were other things found that a PPI wouldn't reveal that make me cringe as well. So the only time I've actually seen a front bump stop on an air suspension was doing research. This video you can see the orange rubber bumpstop:


https://youtu.be/gbd_EUJojyQ?t=9


On other cars these prevent bottoming out. I don't have my new parts yet for the CV/stops but I'll post pictures of what I find when I do.

Labor Day Resurrection:


I came across the ride height debate in another thread: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...sing-inpa.html . Being the second owner of the 4.8is I have, the thread I linked poked my interest and after looking at my truck parked on level ground, the ride height appears to be off. Further investigation with a tape measure and finding this current thread via a search in Google, has proven to me that my eyes are not lying. The front end looks like it's got a slight lift kit.



However, I have followed everyone's advice on measuring and data input but get an error message when inputting my newly calculated values into INPA. What's more is that the software is reading "current" measurements that are way off the OEM specs that are provided within INPA on the calibration page. As we all know for the 4.8is sport suspension (in mm) the:
front axle = 707
rear axle = 709



INPA is reading my truck at:
LF = 596 RF = 455
LR = 432 RR = 515


However, these measurements don't make sense because my personally measured numbers are:
LF = 717 RF = 725
LR = 703 RR = 709


Following the INPA V.5.0.6 work flow I select:
e53>chassis>two-axle air suspension>F6>F5
which brings up the electronically measured numbers above and displays the OEM ride heights where they need to be all on the same page. I then select calibrate, which brings up a small window instructing me to subtract the current measurement from the OEM recommendation. My assumption is that I take the electronically measured number (current) say LF = 596 - 704 = -108. I then put -108 into the field, click ok. I get an error message stating the value is invalid.


Am I to use my physical measurement with the tape measure (as my current) minus the required (OEM) and input this into the fields and ignore the electronically measured numbers? Before doing that, let's back up a step: how I am to baseline the suspension to factory?


The final goal is to drop the entire truck around 25 mm, maybe 30 mm in the front.

Hi mate...

Firstly I'm better with ISTA on this than INPA, but when I was playing around with it I made a similar mistake. I didn't read the explanation CLOSELY and got incorrect errors.

The software needs to generate offset values as all cars and components are different, or put another way, because it's measuring voltages in the ride height sensors it needs to know which voltage measurement is the correct one so it can raise or lower to the right point.

It then applies an offset value to get it there.

Read the calculation sentence again and follow it precisely. From memory it is the other way around to your calcs..... actual height (your measurements) minus the nominal height (INPA)

That did it. I was able to zero all four corners, then dropped the entire truck 30 mm. This process took about five minutes. To summarize the work flow for future lurkers:


For using INPA v.5.0.6 and SPORT SUSPENSION:


*Park on a flat surface
*Check inflation levels for all four tires: doesn't matter what they are so as long as they are the same
*Measure from the absolute bottom of the rim to bottom of fender molding: lining up your measuring device along the center of the roundel and note the length. Measure as vertical as possible.
*Make sure you properly measure: If you tend to read the left side of your tape measure this is fine for one side of the truck, but the opposite side must read from the right side of your tape measure else your measurements are off by up to 3/16".
*Convert everything to mm and round to the nearest significant figure: If you have 709.5, then it is now 710. If you have 709.4, then it is 709. Rounding a tenth of a mm is just fine for spatial resolution.
*Subtract your measured numbers from the OEM numbers. If you have a negative value, you must put a minus sign into INPA later on.
*Interface computer to truck
*Start engine
*Close all doors
*Select "e53"
*Select "Chassis"
*Select "two-axle suspension"
*Press "F6"
*Press "F5"
%Input calculated numbers for Rear Right and Rear Left
*Click "OK"
%Input calculated numbers for Front Right and Front Left
*Click "OK"
*INPA will indicate the system is calibrating at the bottom left of your INPA window
*Once completed manually raise and lower your truck via the button near the steering wheel
*Measure all four wheels again to verify
*Repeat all steps as necessary

%To lower your truck, you simply input your desired drop in mm during the data entry phase of this process. I did a 30 mm drop so I input "30" in all four fields. If I desire to change this back to stock ride height I will then put "-30" in all four fields. The numerical input is inverse of the output.


...now if only I can figure out how to entry-access lower the truck when the key fob unlocks the doors!

I just did this using ISTA Plus. It worked a little different than everything I have read before.

I connected and chose the appropriate section.

It asked me for rim size in inches and then the measurement in mm. It separates front and rear measurements. I selected fronts and put the appropriate measurements in. Then it directs you to the rear.


My truck was off right to left on both axels by an inch in front and 1.5” in the rear. The first go, the program said the front was in parameters and didn’t allow a change. The rear was far enough out..

I went back to the front and fudged the numbers to get it to level.

Then, I wanted to drop it 30mm...

After the initial calibration, I started the truck exercised the suspension through all three settings and then returned to the middle ride height. The ride height was 711mm all the way around (this is what it went to after calibrations).

Then, to get it to lower, I fudge the numbers left-to-right. First, I chose front axel and put LF at 741Mm and RF 711mm. Then the same for the rear. I hit continue and allowed the truck to take the difference. I started it again and ran it through as above.

Then, you go back in and do the same but switch the 741/711mm numbers. The overall result is a lowered truck at the middle position (really all positions)

I measured everything and it ended up being 27” from the bottom lip of the rim to the fender. The RF was 26.8” and that is due to me fudging the numbers in the beginning because the 1” was w/ in tolerance.

Overall the truck looks amazing and is slammed when I put it in the lower position when parked.