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GM 5L40-E teardown
I recently acquired a ‘failed’ GM 5L40-E transmission, which is used in the early E53 3.0 litre M57 diesel models, just so I could repair it for fun. The one I bought is actually from an L322 Range Rover but it’s identical to the E53 version except for slight differences in the output shaft arrangement (NV225 vs NV125 transfer box).
My particular transmission was reported as having lost reverse gear. It should be said that the 5L40-E transmission is notorious for failing at between 80,000 and 100,000 miles in the Range Rover. I assume it’s a similar story for the X5 and consequently the 5L40-E (A5S360R) was swapped out for the slightly higher torque capacity 5L50-E (A5S390R). Anyway, here we go with the teardown.... Starting at the bottom, first off is the sump pan (20-off 10mm A/F bolts) and the metal & rubber gasket : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...mpremoved1.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...mpremoved2.jpg As soon as the sump pan came off it was clear that something was amiss - it looked like there’d been an explosion in a glitter factory! Everything was covered in fine metallic debris : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...-E/Glitter.jpg The filter comes off easily (just pull) http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ilterseals.jpg Note that the filter has a spacer and two seals. Like with the ZF boxes the ‘correct’ filter is made by Filtran in Germany (the German border is only a few yards away from where the GM transmissions are built in Strasbourg, France). The wiring harness comes out next : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...Wiringloom.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...oomremoved.jpg …followed by the valve block assembly. This is retained by nine screws – one with a 10mm A/F head and the remainder requiring a Torx E8 socket http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ockremoved.jpg Interesting to see that GM put the inhibitor (or XYZ) switch inside the transmission rather than on the outside like ZF. Here's the valve block assembly from underneath : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...-underside.jpg The five solenoids can clearly be seen as well as the four accumulators : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ckassy-top.jpg The three (identical) solenoids with the green connectors are the shift solenoids for the 1-2, 2-3 & 4-5 shifts (labelled A, B & C respectively in the casting). The similar sized solenoid at the other end of the block assembly, with the grey connector, operates the torque converter lock-up clutch. The remaining (large) solenoid is the pressure control solenoid whose job it is to adjust the transmission’s line pressure. I did a quick check of all five solenoids’ winding resistances and all were to spec. (at 20 deg. C. these should be : Shift solenoids = 15 to 17 Ohms, TCC solenoid = 10.0 to 11.5 Ohms and pressure control solenoid = 3.5 to 4.6 Ohms) The two speed sensors can then be removed (each held in with a single screw) : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...eedSensors.jpg The sensors should have a resistance between 325 and 485 Ohms at 20 deg. C. Mine measured 387 and 389 Ohms. The jump tubes that feed fluid from the valve block to the clutches in the casing can then be removed (they're held together by metal straps) : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...besin-situ.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i.../Jumptubes.jpg Okay, moving around to the front of the transmission now …… Just before removing the bellhousing I removed the torque converter turbine shaft O-ring : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...E/TCO-ring.jpg Then the seven 13mm A/F bolts which secure the bellhousing to the maincase follow : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...usingbolts.jpg The bellhousing can then be drawn off. The oil pump cover assembly is bolted to the back of the bellhousing : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...-E/Oilpump.jpg The running gear can now be extracted : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ingremoved.jpg first the direct and reverse clutch assembly : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...everseassy.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...yunderside.jpg followed by the forward and coast clutch assembly (attached to the input shaft) : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...syincasing.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ftstuckjpg.jpg Hmmm, something wrong here! The input sun gear shaft and forward clutch sprag assembly comes with it and doesn’t want to part company with the forward and coast clutch assembly : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i.../Burntdrum.jpg and clearly something has been getting a bit hot! With some effort I finally extract the input sun gear shaft and the forward clutch hub/sprag assembly has also obviously been getting very hot : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rshaftfree.jpg Removing the plates from the forward clutch : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lutchburnt.jpg and, well, they are toast : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...40-E/Toast.jpg There’s nothing left of the friction material and several of the plates have friction welded themselves together. Next out is the direct clutch hub & shaft assembly : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...hinputhub1.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...hinputhub2.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...hinputhub3.jpg and then the overdrive and reverse clutch hub which has the intermediate clutch sprag assembly attached : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...eclutchhub.jpg The next stage involves the removal of this huge circlip - which I’ve highlighted in red for clarity : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ighlighted.jpg This requires a seriously large pair of circlip pliers http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ivecirclip.jpg The retainer ring is selective i.e. it’s available in different thicknesses to cater for the particular tolerance stack up. The intermediate & overdrive clutch assembly then pulls out : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i..._overdrive.jpg followed by the low clutch sprag assembly and its thrust washer : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...wspragassy.jpg The centre support assembly can then be extracted from the casing : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...upportassy.jpg This centre support assembly includes the low/reverse clutch, second clutch and second coast clutch http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...resupport1.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...resupport2.jpg Then the planetary carrier assembly can be removed : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...arycarrier.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...yepicyclic.jpg Leaving the rear internal gear/output shaft in the casing (you can see the park lock teeth around the outside of the internal gear) http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...utputshaft.jpg Now switching attention to the rear of the transmission..... http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...L40-E/Rear.jpg The rear casing is removed (7-off M13 A/F bolts) : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i.../Rearcover.jpg to gain access to the output shaft assembly : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...putShaft-1.jpg and the park lock engagement mechanism : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...E/Parklock.jpg which just leaves the selector shaft assembly : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...itorswitch.jpg So having removed these last few components : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...components.jpg finally leaves an empty casing : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...mptycasing.jpg Regarding all the metallic debris that was found inside the transmission, clearly the failed clutch plates will have contributed but they can’t have been solely responsible for the huge quantity of debris discovered so I needed to dig a bit deeper. Here’s the torque converter with the weld, which holds the two halves of its casing together, removed : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rter/Step1.jpg Lifting off the engine-side half of the casing reveals the torque converter lock-up clutch : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rter/Step2.jpg and I could immediately see that the clutch lining had disappeared completely allowing metal-to-metal contact : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/LUCcover.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...verter/LUC.jpg which is presumably where the majority of the metallic debris has come from. Lifting off the lock-up clutch assembly reveals the turbine : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rter/Step3.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...er/Turbine.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rbineclose.jpg With the turbine lifted out the stator and impeller can now be seen : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rter/Step4.jpg The stator has an axial thrust bearing either side of it, both of which appear to be in good condition : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ter/Stator.jpg and removing the centre cover reveals the roller-and-ramp one-way clutch which allows the stator to back-paddle once the converter’s coupling point has been reached (at around 85% speed ratio) http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rter/Sprag.jpg And finally, after removing the stator, the impeller in all its glory : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...r/Impeller.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ellerclose.jpg So, clearly an issue with the lock-up clutch lining but the remainder of the converter appears to be in good condition. Anyway, I now need to strip down the sub-assemblies – especially the valve block, where I suspect I will find the root cause of the failure....... Phil |
Excellent write-up. Will be interested to see the root cause analysis. Staying tuned.
Jeff |
Excellent indeed! I don't have anywhere near the skills to undertake a task such at that but very much enjoy seeing how it's done.
I did change the oil in my X5 today though. :thumbup: |
follow this for valve body inspection of the reverse lock out bore.
http://www.sonnax.com/system/pdfs/14...-TIP-02-09.pdf |
Superb write-up. Phil, I almost quite literally love you.
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Phil - great thread! Almost like the classical "whodunnit?" thriller! :-) Now you have me looking forward to the grand finale....
Is your thinking that something in the valveblock failed and not enough pressure being delivered to the (overheated) clutches and the TC? |
you the man Phil!!! :bow:
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I’ve been reminded that I hadn’t finished off this post on the 5L40-E teardown, so here goes. Picking up from where I left off above, starting with the disassembly of the main hydraulic block.....
Working from the top side, the four accumulators are removed first. The accumulators are used as ‘shock absorbers’ to control the feel of each upshift - each of the four upshifts having its own accumulator for the oncoming clutch : 2nd clutch accumulator = 1-2 upshift Intermediate clutch accumulator = 2-3 upshift Direct clutch accumulator = 3-4 upshift Overdrive clutch accumulator = 4-5 upshift http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...cumulators.jpg Each is made up of a housing, piston & spring. The ATSG manual states that all four accumulators are identical but this is clearly not the case for the L322 (Range Rover) version of the 5L40-E. Three of the housings/pistons are identical (overdrive, intermediate and 2nd clutch) but the direct clutch accumulator has a larger diameter upper piston & therefore housing. The springs aren’t all the same either. The overdrive & 2nd clutch accumulator springs are both identical but are longer (65mm measured free length) than the direct & intermediate clutch accumulator springs (60mm measured free length) which, again, appear to be both identical. The photos show that the 2nd clutch accumulator spring was broken in my transmission, which must have affected the quality of the 1-2 upshift (I believe that this is quite a common complaint). http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...n1-2Spring.jpg Interestingly this is the only spring of the four which doesn’t have a central support cast into the valve block http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ringGuides.jpg This particular transmission has the larger diameter second & second coast clutches used in the later models of the 5L40-E : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...tchDimeter.jpg 2nd clutch plate outside diameter increased from 130mm in the early models to 138mm http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...stDiameter.jpg 2nd coast clutch plate outside diameter increased from 173mm in the early models to 176mm Anyway, the second & second coast clutches were in fine condition : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...utchPlates.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ictionMatl.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...oastPlates.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ictionMatl.jpg Back to the valve block, the seven Torx T30 headed screws are removed from the top channel plate http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psidebolts.jpg Followed by the remaining three screws (2 x Torx T30 and 1-off 10mm A/F, which bolts down the detent spring on the rear valve body) on the control valve body side http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ning3bolts.jpg Both the control valve bodies can then be lifted away from the channel plates http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lvalvebody.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lvalvebody.jpg exposing the gasket which seals the control valve bodies to the spacer plate. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...bodygasket.jpg This gasket is fitted with two screens or filters. One screen is situated between the feed limit valve and the main pressure control solenoid and the other between the feed limit valve and the torque converter lock-up clutch solenoid (the feed limit valve ‘caps’ the pressure seen by the solenoids to prevent them being overloaded). http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...oidscreens.jpg Considering the amount of metallic debris that I found in the fluid these filters are amazingly clean. Once the spacer plate & gasket are removed the bottom channel plate can be seen with its twelve ball valves. Everything still looking okay so far........ http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...annelplate.jpg The top & bottom channel plates can then be separated (yet another gasket) http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ateremoved.jpg Removing the gasket leaves just the top channel plate http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...annelplate.jpg On the top side of the gasket an amount of metallic debris has accumulated http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lategasket.jpg So, still nothing much yet to explain the failure. Front & rear control valve bodies next.......... All the valves from the front control valve body : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...rontblock1.jpg and the rear control valve body : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...Rearblock1.jpg appear, on the face of it, to be fine from just a visual inspection – though each would need vacuum testing to properly check the wear levels. The reverse lockout valve (2nd up from the bottom on the right in the picture above) seemed free to move. This is the spool that commonly sticks and prevents reverse gear from engaging (also see killcrap’s post above). Despite the levels of metallic debris in the fluid it would seem that the filter had still been doing a sterling job of keeping it away from the solenoids which showed no signs of debris around their own screens : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...WMSolenoid.jpg To check the remaining spool valves I removed the pump cover from the bellhousing : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...coverbolts.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i.../CoverAssy.jpg and, again, each spool and valve assembly looks okay visually : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...umpHousing.jpg The main flow screen from the pump : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ninstalled.jpg shows no indication that large particles of metallic debris had reached that far into the hydraulic circuit either http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...0-E/Screen.jpg The pump itself (variable displacement vane-type) also looks in good condition : http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i.../Oilpump-1.jpg So, in conclusion, all a bit of an anti-climax really. At the start of the teardown I was expecting to find a really obvious cause for the melted clutch packs and the torque converter lock-up clutch which had worn through its lining – maybe a stuck valve or, at the very least, something palpable to explain why the transmission had come to such a sticky end – but, in the end, nothing particularly stood out. I would therefore certainly agree with the conclusion that Stevemfr (over on the rangerover.net forum) reached following his research on this transmission i.e. the mechanical problems are the result of reduced hydraulic pressures caused by wear & subsequent leakage in the hydraulic valve blocks. It’s unfortunate that I don’t have the necessary flow kit to be able to measure the valve leakages and prove this but nevertheless I think that it provides the best explanation. As part of his research Stevemfr spoke to Sonnax - based in Bellows Falls, Vermont, USA - who produce rectification kits for the 5L40-E (as well as many other automatic transmissions) which, they claim, overcome the deficiencies of the ‘soft’ GM valve blocks. The diagrams below show the individual valves for which Sonnax provide a modification kit. All the spools/valves reside in one of three hydraulic blocks (i.e. front control valve body, rear control valve body and oil pump cover). The spools highlighted in green just require the existing bore to be reamed out slightly larger and then an oversized spool valve is fitted. The spools highlighted in yellow require the bores to be opened out still further so that both a new sleeve and spool can be fitted. The ‘XXK’ number (e.g. 04K) on the diagrams is the Sonnax kit reference for that particular valve. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...alveBody-1.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...alveBody-1.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lPumpCover.jpg To be able to carry out the re-machining of the blocks an amount of dedicated tooling is required from Sonnax. This consists of a reaming fixture and pump base plate (which can be seen in this YouTube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWBiDubWvS4 ) together with reamers, jigs and guide pins which are generally unique to each valve. I made enquiries regarding this kit and, all in, the total cost of this tooling is around £1375. On top of that there is the cost of the valve kits. Each varies between around £45 and £70 depending on its complexity and, as Sonnax produce a kit for eleven out of the fifteen valves, this totals up at just under £600 for all eleven valves to be replaced. Not, then, a job for an amateur doing a one-off overhaul - but worthwhile, I think, looking out for suppliers who will provide exchange valve blocks with the Sonnax modifications carried out. Phil |
Got to be one of the best posts I've read! Very informative, well presented with good clear photo's.
Hat off to ya Fella...:thumbup: |
RRPhil
How in the world did you get that damn large ring out? i have the large pliers but one side of the ring seems wedged and no matter what i do one side slides out but the other is just not budging!!!!! any advice? not sure but when compressing my ring only one side would bend inward the other was stuck in its groove and wouldnt move. I had to tap it a bit with a hammer gently and finally it moved when i just the pliers this time. |
RRPhil,
Thank You, Just Thank You. This has been bookmarked. I've been thinking about buying a trans from a junk yard and doing the same. this is giving me the motivation to actually do it. Thank You |
Great Post, Thank you.
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http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...-E/j-45126.jpg Phil |
I had a pair of 16in which work its a little harder but they work but my problem was that one side of the ring did not want to move out of the groove. it was wedged pretty good. I had tap on it and after an hour of messing about it finally moved out.
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RRPhil
Man this has been a huge learning track. Thank you for doing this Phil. I had another quick question. In your tranny after the torque converter failed you had a lot of sludge and i have that but not as bad its minor. however i still would like to take everything apart and clean that stuff out. My question is what can i use to wash the parts with? Again it maybe a stupid question but ive never worked on a tranny before so im taking my time and asking a lot of questions. TIA Arthur |
I have no idea what brands of automotive parts cleaning solution are available in Armenia but any standard solution should be fine – it doesn’t require anything special. Just make sure not to put the clutch plates in it and I would also avoid flushing it through the needle roller bearings in the epicyclic geartrain assembly.
The most critical thing is to have your torque converter re-manufactured otherwise there is a strong risk of you cross-contaminating your nice clean transmission fluid with the debris that previously got trapped in the torque converter. As failure of the TC lock-up clutch is extremely common in the 5L40-E this will also be replaced as part of the converter’s re-manufacturing process. Phil |
Hi Phil,
I am actually located in Georgia, USA. I was from Armenia originally. I have not noticed any sludge material in side the actualy housing were the clutches are located but maily in the bottom of the pan and on the side as i had rolled the tranny on to its side for a sec. What do you think about using a clean quart of dex6 to kinda wash the plates as when i try to clean but wiping it just smears and i can see stuff is still there. I was thinking of taking a small plastic container and filling a quart of dex6 and just kinda rinse each clutch plate trying to clean it as best as possible. I had already sent my bad torque converter to be rebuilt and ive have already recieved it back. the only thing left for me is to order the overhaul kit from cobratransmission.com and some transmission lube compound for the check balls and filter and oil and i can start the process of replacing all the those parts with new ones. is it realy a pain in the ass to put the pistons in without the eazy-cone thing on cobratransmission.com site? |
excellent post! well documented!
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hi Phil,
Sorry about the endless questions but I got one more...I finally had the chance to take out the clutch packs. at first sight they seem fine but looking at your pictures the one were you are measuring it i can see definit gaps between the "pads" around the ring and i started to look at mine. I only took out the centre support assembly and the clutches in there. the top look ok but in the middle clucthe i cant even feel the differences on the surface i mean i dont feel the gaps and on one there was no gap which leads me to believe i need to put new clutch packs in there. my question was do you know the tickness of the pads? nevermind on the clutch thickness since i found 3 of them had been worn down ti metal. in a seperate note i found once tooth on the back end of the The intermediate & overdrive clutch assembly with a crack that held a c clip large one and its underpressure, basically take youur pictre of the The intermediate & overdrive clutch assembly and look under it those are the teeth i am talking about. it seems that u can just position the clip opening at that spot so the broken area wouldnt have been supporting anything anyways if not are you willing ti sell me the one you have? |
Hi Phil
Well, I am stumped. I tore it down then replaced all the pads etc al o rings and what not. Tore apart the valve body too cleaned and changed the gasket and reassembled then reinstalled it in the car. Hooked up the cooler lines and did not notice that cooler oil line o rings had sloped and where cut. Basically they got sucked in to the cooler then back into the pump. Hoarse when filling with oil everything was fine then after putting in about 8 quarts when I put in reverse I hear shutter noise then if try to place it in park I hear loud shutter like as if it was a manual tranny when you fail to compress the count correctly or signage into the gear correctly that metal shutter grinding sound i hear the when putting it in park. I've reopens the funny but found fine rubber dust looks like the pump grinder down the half of the o ring. So and suggestikns |
Excellent post great photos, very informative.. Thank you.
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Dayamn. Phil you really are the trans man
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I'm feeling relaxed that we've gearman here :)
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RRPhil, I have just found your excellent posts on gearboxes, both here and on range rovers.net.
Are you willing to help with random gearbox questions? I wasn't sure if you are happy to be PM'd by new members, and I guess you get lots of requests... but I have searched the forum but can't find quite my symptoms described anywhere. I have just bought a 2001 X5 diesel, so the GM auto box. 143K miles. Had a gearbox rebuild a few years ago, but no record of exactly what was done. It now has the following symptoms: 1. When cold, takes a couple of minutes (to build pressure?) before it will creep or drive either in D or R. 2. Once warm, drives fine all day with only a slight hesitation (1-2 seconds) when engaging D or R, and this only occasionally. 3. Absolutely no clonks, bangs, judders, or slipping while driving. No error codes on dash. Everything is smooth and normal once warm. 4. Went to local garage for transmission fluid top-up or flush/replacement but they stated the fluid was not low and was perfectly clean - so I assume it is either ok from the rebuild a few years ago or has been recently replaced to try and cure the issue before now. They said there is no sign of metal sludge, which I hope from reading your posts is a good thing... I love the car and am happy to fix this, bought it at a good price knowing there would be jobs to do! Can you offer any advice on my next steps? I am thinking a dodgy valve block giving low pressure, which would explain the slow start when cold. I want to sort this ASAP before things get worse, but to get to a proper diagnosis first. Maybe I might get away with just replacing the valve block... Thanks in advance if you are able to help at all. |
I posted a visitor message on your member profile page which may be of interest to you .
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Many thanks :thumbup:
I'll let you know how I get on. Phil |
So, it looks like the Sonnax - Aftermarket replacement transmission, torque converter, and high performance automotive parts company makes the reman VB and fortifies them to make sure such a problem does not happen again. I was able to get a quote for 450 for VB (My own VB) and the pump cover which has 2 valves (125) to bore out and put sleeves in all valves and check all the solenoids and replace each if necessary. so overall its not a bad price about $700 for that plus the 500 (tranny rebuild kit) plus (100 in oil). so overall im looking at a pretty much new tranny at $1,300....and that is a great price.
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:( I was watching that too.
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@ sundayjumper , You leave that for Phil as he wants to rebuild one of those and share the knowledge .
And his knowledge is by far the greatest so far , as far as I know so you stay far away from it . |
Quote:
I'm sure I'm not the only person to have spotted it, so you'd better get busy tracking down everyone else who's watching it, so you can threaten them too. :rolleyes: |
That is my tone , like it or lump it , no offence intended , just your perception .
Anyway why do you want a 4.6 transmission when you have a 4.4 . Phil has asked for a while to get his hands on one of those and nobody else will share his quality of knowledge . So do the world a favour and let him get on with it . |
So can we remove the crap from this thread from post 28.29.30 and 31 .
You seem to think it is acceptable to snoop around RR Phil`s visitor messages and then come on here complaining as though you have more right to buy the gearbox than anyone else . WTF goes on in your head . |
bump for sundaydickhead to remove the crap
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Quote:
a) Get over yourself. b) Go fuck yourself. As you said to me, "That is my tone , like it or lump it", so I offer you the same advice. I'm not embarrassed about anything I've posted here, so I'm not deleting it. See b) above. |
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So I ask you one more time to show some respect for RRPhil and remove the crap . You have ignored the previous requests and the private message I sent you . |
Note to mod`s
perhaps you will see reason and delete the crap please . |
Dear Phil, first of all thank you for your knowledge that you share. I just found this post quite old but it allowed me to advance in the search for GM5 gearbox failure
my English is not perfect so I use a little Google translator (thank you). For 30 years I have owned Land Rover (Range V8, discovery 300TDI and TD5). I bought a Range L322 last year with confidence because the gearbox was changed 50,000 KM ago. I came to consult the forum after the failure of my GM5L40 gearbox. While driving on the highway (about 70Mph) I felt a big shake under the Range Rover and the rescue program of the gearbox started. I came home with gear ratios 2 and 3. Upon disassembly I found metallic debris in the oil pan. After disassembling the gearbox I discovered that the main drive shaft broke clean (direct clutch hub and shaft assembly) as if a reverse movement had occurred into the gearbox. The internal clutch did not resist either and the forward coast clutch housing was scratched all around, the direct clutch hub thrust washer is damaged. (I don't know how to send photos) I found a cheap GM box from BMW 330D as an organ bank and replaced the broken parts. I think found failure ! I think the TCC solenoid that blocks reverse gear could have triggered and allowed the gearbox to shift into reverse while the range rover was traveling in forward gear. For more security should I change the TCC solenoid or buy the Sonnax reverse lockout valve kit 55211-01K with special toolF-55211-TL, repair and test with vaccum ? I think it’s more reasonable otherwise it will start again Thank you for your reply. Regards from Normandy |
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