Suggest you check for transmission codes to help narrow down the possibilities.

There no codes coming up

A generic obd II reader will not read codes in the EGS module.

Looking for some guidance based on the groups knowledge:

I’m getting NO forward or reverse.

The vehicle shuddered at low rpm in every gear since I bought it in March but now it fell out of gear and won’t move. I topped off the transmission oil and after I put it back on the ground it would go forwardhttps://imgur.com/gallery/9p0sQf3 and backward but only for a few seconds before it falls out again! I tried a new battery to ensure proper voltage but no change.

It sounds like it’s getting pressure as I shift through the gears but grinds as I shift back into park.

Does that sound familiar to anyone? I have linked a couple pics... does 156 mA to the lock-up clutch sound right?

I can upload a video to YouTube if you’d like to hear it.

https://imgur.com/gallery/9p0sQf3

Does the park lock hold the vehicle stationary?

Phil

Phil, It is stationary when put in park.

Brian

Here is a link to a video of a link to the faults from the Foxwell and a video of the sounds it makes as I shift from P to D and back to P:

Shifting: https://youtu.be/S7GL_QMhEzQ
Faults: https://youtu.be/0QXCna9T_1c

Also, the Foxwell can’t seem to find/read the TCU...:dunno:

The parking pawl ratcheting on the park lock gear indicates that the transmission output is turning even though the vehicle is stationary. This means that something downstream of the transmission is disconnected e.g. an issue with the transmission output shaft, transfer case, propshaft(s), final drive(s) or driveshaft(s). Do you have access to a ramp where you could check if either propshaft or the driveshafts are turning when in D or R with the brakes applied? The spline between the front propshaft and the transfer box is a common failure mode on the E53.

Phil

Thanks Phil.

Looks like the front driveshaft is NOT turning, but the rear is turning in forward and reverse.

I don’t think that Park engages to stop the front wheels from tuning when I do it by hand.

Here is a link to the shafts spinning/not spinning:
https://youtu.be/riMZPtBt3oE

Thanks,
Brian

So, I pulled the transfer case off today and, without opening it up, everything seems to be okay in it. The female splines on the TC looked to be flattened but idk because the male splines are near perfect and seem to full seat take a look at this picture: https://imgur.com/gallery/H5s0zAa and the transmission output splines here: https://imgur.com/gallery/JqB7kqd

Could I be mistaken about the front half shaft not spinning? Because it wouldn’t spin if all four wheels are off the ground? Do the back wheels need to be on the ground for the front shaft to spin (video linked in previous post)?

Here is a video of me turning the TC input shaft...I think it’s working alright...?: https://youtu.be/WHgXygOTRzA

I haven’t looked at the front case to see if it has teeth because I don’t have a socket large enough to get the little spindle out. But is that the next area to investigate?

Does this help to narrow down the faulty part, Phil?

Brian

Your TC splines look like mine after failure. Your front driveshaft splines aren't quite as worn as mine were, but I strongly suspect that's your failure point, especially with the rust present.


2002 X5 3.0 367,000 miles
2014 428i 65,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

Thanks scrmmmm.

I think you’re right. The driveshaft splines do look decent but may very well be worn enough to slip/grind when put in park. I looks like, at some point, someone installed a driveshaft with longer splines to overcome the 1” of worn TC splines, but now have also been rounded off. As I slip the driveshaft in and twist it back and forth, I feel quite a bit of play between the teeth, which I doubt should be there. I wonder if a stretched TC chain would create the low rpm shudder I was feeling and simultaneously torque the spindle teeth flat? Have you guys ever heard that causing shuddering?

But, I will report back when I change the TC spindle, chain and front driveshaft. Just scared of throwing money at those parts and it not actually fixing the issue considering that it did have a shaft with longer splines and I did do the front CVs when I bought it (I under that the c-clip on new cvs can be a failure point if not fully inserted).

Brian

Mine was replaced at 136,000 miles with a new front driveshaft and a used transfer case that had 76,000 miles on it. Now at 367,000 miles and there is no play in the splines, nor any indication of chain stretch when it was inspected at 300,000 miles.


On reassembly, make sure you pack the splines with a marine rated grease (think boat trailer wheel bearing), and direct the A/C condensate drain away from the driveshaft. That's what causes most of the rust activity.


2002 X5 3.0 367,000 miles
2014 428i 65,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird under restoration

Well, it turns out that the CV joint on the passenger side popped out of place and was the cause of the grinding noise heard in the video.

I replaced the transfer case and front driveshaft anyway due to the rust and questionable splines.

She's back on the road now, but the transmission still shudders at low rpm. It just can't quite decide which gear to go in, but stops when I let off, or push the throttle.

Would that be caused by a dirty filter? Bad solenoid? :dunno:

Same issues any resolution?
 

New BMW owner, new e53 X5 owner and new poster wondering if this issue was answered or resolved as I’m having similar issues however also get the trans fail safe message. When started cold X5 will shift through all gears and run smoothly at highway speeds. Once warm it will skip 1-3 and “thump” into 4-5 in both manual and auto driving causing trans fail safe. Here’s what I’ve done so far:
Replaced transmission cooler and thermostat, drained and filled trans fluid and replaced filter and gasket according to guidelines, replaced speed output sensor (P0721 code), replaced trans wiring harness (including temp sensor), drained and filled TC fluid, drained and filled engine oil and replaced filter (Valvoline MaxLife used for all fluids), drained and filled coolant according to guidelines, replaced power steering pump (was going out) and drained and filled fluid, replaced fan clutch pulley (cracked from previous power steering pump being installed incorrectly), replaced MAF, cleaned ECM, about to replace B2S2 O2 sensor (P0440, P0057), engine average temp 105 C, trans average temp 95 C, battery average 13.4 - 13.6v running 3000 rpm’s. No longer pulling code P0731 now pulling P0733. Btw purchases vehicle 12/2019 with 144k miles and discover most of these issues and solutions from this forum so EXTREMELY grateful this exists! Hoping someone can assist with potential solutions before tearing into the transmission.