Removing the axle nut
 

Hi guys, I'm planning to replace my driver's side front axle (CV boot cracked... and now it's making noise). Anywho, as silly as it may sound, I'm not sure about the 36mm 12 point socket I should be getting. The axle nut seems a bit deep in the hub and I was worried that some sockets might be too short to allow for me to turn it loose using a breaker bar (e.g. would I have enough clearance to make a 90 degree angle between the direction of torque and the arm of the breaker bar)

I ordered a Craftsman 36mm one, and it looks to be about a shy under 2 inches in length, so I was wondering if it would be advisable to order a longer socket (e.g. deep sockets or those used for impact guns).

Thanks everyone!

I have done the replacement with a regular 36 mm socket. Not a problem at all.

Thank you so much!

I replaced my left side outer boot in July, I took route of removing the inner boot and then putting on the outer boot. That axle nut is torqued to something like 450 lb ft, after reading numerous posts where guys just couldn't get the damn thing off I took the inner boot removal method.

The method I used recently for undoing the CV nut was to remove the wheel and use a punch to knock back the indented part of the nut.
I then removed the centre badge/cap from the wheel and refitted it and lowered the car onto the ground.
I used a standard length 36mm 12 point socket with a short extension and a long breaker bar.
Support the head of the breaker bar at the correct height (I used an adjustable axle stand), making sure the socket is fully engaged over the nut, then apply force to the breaker bar.
I had to actually stand on the end of the breaker bar and bounce a little before it finally started to move.
It’s also a little easier with an assistant sitting in the drivers’ seat with their foot on the brake pedal.
Refit is just the opposite procedure making sure to use a new CV nut.
After tightening remember to use a punch to dent the outer collar of the nut into the groove on the end of the CV joint.

Good information!Just to note that front or rear hubs have a tightening torque of 310 lb/ft or 420 Nms...(no where near 450 lb/ft !!!)

Oh yeah, thanks, I must have gotten the newtons and pounds turned around, but 310 lb/ft of torque is nothing to sneeze at.

Without a torque wrench, Isn't 310ft/lbs about as tight as you can get it.

With so many variables, there is no possible response to this statement.

How strong are you? Are you built like Bo Jackson or Bo Derek?

How long is the ratchet handle/breaker bar you plan to use?

Will you stand on the wrench handle to tighten it? If so, how much do you weigh?

And so on......

310 ft/lbs is exactly that. Why not rent the correct tool and get it right. The cost of repairing a possible failure caused by getting it wrong could exceed the cost of the Tq Wrench and/or possible loss of life.

You think professional is expensive? Try novice!

Guys if you pop your center caps off a few days prior and soak the axle nut once a day for a couple days in PB blaster it's not an issue. I sprayed mine 3 times the 3 days prior to removal.

Use the method above, 12 pt 36mm socket on 6" extension, using a 23" breaker bar from harbor freight, and to keep the socket on the nut rest the socket extension on a jack stand to keep it level.

The trick is to slide a cheater bar (a long steel pipe) to get more torque than the breaker bar allows. The cheap and easy way to do this for free is to take off your handle from your jack and slide it over the breaker bar. Doing that made my breaker bar about 40" long and just lean on it a bit counterclockwise and it should loosen up just fine!

Work smarter not harder!