I see in your signature that your X5 is a pre-facelift. If it's the case, you don't need to have the transfer case reseted since it is only mechanical, no clutches inside to reset.
Just buy a good synthetic ATF fluid and you should be good to go.

Awesome, I'll knock it out this weekend - I hope!

the BMW TIS and the ZF spare parts manual instruct you to have the vehicle running and level, as well as the oil temp being in a range, to fill properly. It may take multiple attempts, as it may be hard to keep the oil in the temp range.

ZF recommends a transmission fluid change (not a flush) at 100km (approx 62k miles) for these vehicles used in climates that have varying temperatures and for rougher than normal service (like sitting on the 405 in LA).

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...op-filter.html

Just did it guys.

Thanks all for the hints and help.

Turbo, I think your instructions for reading with GT1 were correct. My friend has experience with it, and somehow was able to monitor it with your directions. I didn't see, cause I was under the car, but he managed to tell me when I was in temp, when to close the fill hole, and when to open.

And yes, the car had to be running. A little freaky because the exhaust is so damn hot, but all good. Thanks again.

How so? Don't just make a empty statement. Tell me why. :stickpoke

This is purely what I have seen in previous cars, and experience from those that have done the flush.

Flush is one of those things that when they start pumping fluid, all the crud, gunk, sludge, everything gets disturbed. Now with so many micro components in the trans, like valve body, any one of those little things can clog up a passage, and there goes your trans. I know a few people that did the trans flushes, and all was ok. I also know quite a few other people that did a flush and then followed by a rebuild.

I have in the past drained and filled my auto cars every 15k - 20k miles. I have not had any trans failures to date. I do have a feeling that this car will be the exception no matter how hard I try to maintain the oil, but still, I am going to give it a try. I just did drain by dropping the pan.

Plan to do one soon again. I think I will essentially be on 50% renewed fluid and a new filter.

The shops that want to take your money will recommend a flush, because chances are, since you are there doing it, your trans is on its way out.

A trusted mechanic that I use, has always told me to stay away from a flush as well. He said you do not want to take a chance of dislodging some crap, from some seal, gear, filter, anything and pushing it into the rest of the transmission. He also said that a complete fluid change might cause a change of state in the transmission. Which will shock all the seals, clutches, and other moving components.

Draining and filling the transmission lets you refresh the properties of the oil without completely shocking the system with 12L of fresh oil.

I know this thread is a bit old, but I thought for the sake of it being full of good information, I wanted to ask in here. This may be a obvious answer, but if someone doesn't have a GT1, where would I take the temperature at? For instance if I just bought an infared temperature reader?

Right at the fill hole while it is dripping out. Try to point it at the fluid leaking out.

Makes sense, thanks.