Engine mount, right driver side as suspected.
 

Went by my friends shop to help me diagnose if my mounts are dead. So it turns out my pussy footing the throttle while in drive and on brakes is not the way one should test.

So he looks at me and tells me to get it to about 2k rpm, quick jab throttle to load it up, followed by another jab. I'm like ok, stand to the side. I nail the gas and my driver side mount is shot. The engine pops out a good 3" on driver side with a loud thud. In reverse, solid. Yay, mount gave up totally.

He tells me to replace just the one mount, what do you guys think?

I was thinking both engine, and trans mount at same time.

If someone will try this diagnosis, be smart and stand to the side of the car while someone puts car in drive, holds brake, and punches it. I'm not responsible for your stupidity.

I have the exact same problem right now as well. You can get away with just replacing the broken mount but depending on how long it has been broken it has put a bit of extra strain on the other mount. I am planning on replacing all 3 so I dont have to screw with it anytime in the future. Plus it is a couple more parts on the journey to replacing everything on the car.

Just to give us a flavor of what happened... What symptoms led you to believe it was broken in the first place? What is the mileage on the car?

BTW. the rear mount for the trans is quite distinct from the engine mounts I wonder why you want to replace at the same time?

Yup, sounds like a broken motor mount. Never had one in the X but had sveral in Fords and VW's I've owned and what you describe is exactly how those that failed on me acted. The quick jolt of rpm torques the engine away from the broken mount. I would replace both because of stress on the non broken mount.

This can be a DIY I believe you can use a jack to lift the engine to get at the motor mounts, but, I'm not sure. Also an engine lift will work if you have access to one.

Yea I'm thinking it was bad for a while, ever since I got it, just now it's fully ripped. All three for me too, don't want to have to diagnose a mount in the future.

TriX5
2006, 4.8is, 78K miles.

Yea so I was 95 percent sure that the mounts were shot they day I got the car. Not completely shot, but in need of replacement. My unfamiliarity with the car led me on a chase for other issues before tackling the mount. About a week ago, I was 99 percent sure the mounts are now completely done. I feel like I should have followed my instinct and changed them, but I was hesitant since there might have been other issues at play. There weren't. I did preventative maintenance anyway, but nothing helped this specific problem. New plugs, cleaned maf, cleaned TB, new fuel filter, new air filter, oil and filter. Nothing helped the above.

So since day one, the test that has never failed me is the vibration, more vibration in drive, and vibration in reverse. Vibration in P and N much less but there. If you turn the AC on, the vibration in every gear becomes 70 percent less. This is exactly the same diagnosis I have had with every broken mount I ever dealt with. The AC on test is what always settles it for me, especially since there are no codes or anything. To re-enforce my theory, I started paying attention to delay of the line. You press the go pedal, but there is just that slight delay before the car moves. Shifts seem like they rock the boat ever so slightly.

Read last reply. I have a theory on some stuff.

Had the same thing on my last Lexus. I'm hard with the go pedal. So once the vibration started, turning on the AC makes the vibration much less. At that point, I start checking mounts. I bought my last car with 74k miles. Replaced mounts at 84k, and then again at 130k.

Yea I am pretty sure I am going to do this myself. My bud has a shop, so I just need to get in there when the lifts are free, and he will even help me with it. As a matter of fact, he actually has 1 new mount, a used amp, and pass window regulator that he is giving me. Yay.

Doing all 3 mounts for sure. Don't want to be diagnosing the next vibration and thinking, maybe it's the other mounts.

So I have a theory. You know how our Torque Converters have anti vibration damping, well how likely is is that our failing mounts are making the TC work harder, or out of spec when the engine mounts are shot. I am thinking that with destroyed mounts, a lot of symptoms feel like the trans is going. I will deff know for sure once new mounts are in.

I suggest everyone go and check their mounts. Why? Well because I doubt there are many owners out there that actually floor their car as often as I do. When driving normal with the family, the mounts "seem tight", everything works still. I am shocked at how planted everything is with a torn mount. We are talking about a completely torn mount here, and the car barely shows you symptoms. I mean, if you are used to driving with AC on, you might not even notice it. It really makes that big of a difference.

And yes, I checked my idle rpm with the GT1. I didn't raise it, because like I said, I was 95 percent sure the mounts were bad from day one.

Update. Fixed. Just came back from the Indy. Great props to these guys for a nice clean job. If anyone is looking for a good shop with good prices in Brooklyn ny, hit up Trio Auto.

So they did the following.
1. Replaced both engine mounts. Driver side was a bitch by the way, very little wiggle room.
2. Removed trans brace to inspect rear mount, good condition.
3. Removed belts to check all pulleys, and tensioners, tensioner bad
4. Alternator seems to be making that supercharger noise.
5. Cleaned entire engine to find source of oil leak.

$140 for 3 hours of work. $160 with tip. Not bad at all. But I know these guys for 14 years.

So holy shit. Car is smooth as silk again. No vibrations, no throttle delay.

That lurch. Yea it's practically non-existent now. I guess this, and trans pan 2x drop and fill, 1x filter, great stuff. Very happy those nasty ass vibrations are gone.

Drivers mount was destroyed. Oil leaked out of it. Pass side mount looked decent, mechs told me to keep it just in case. All in all good day.

Going back in 2 weeks to find leak. I hope.

By the way 4.8is here. No way can driver side mount be DIY unless you have a lift, and a good selection of tools to fit the tight space. Even with that, the subframe had to drop about 6 inches, while engine lifted to get mount out. Note, no other parts removed, not even wheels. Pass side is comparatively easy, and took like 30 min.

I use the both out first method. You take the easier one out first, then that gives you extra room to rotate the engine away from the harder mount, then you replace the harder mount and then the easier mount......

Haven't done them on the X yet but figure I'll be employing the same tactic

It is messed up tight in there on the 4.8. Plus the mounts are not on center in relation to the engine. The pass side, is more forward, and is much easier. Maybe, just maybe if you take it out first, you might be able to rotate the engine just a bit more, but I doubt it. What the mech did, was actually unscrew, the entire subframe, and supported it all on stands. Then used another stand to lift the engine on that side only. When that was at the safe max point, as in not to damage any wires or hoses, one mechanic hung on the rear of the driver side subframe, while the other rotated and wiggled the mount out. It came out of the mount holder pretty easy, it just wouldn't come out of the area. He was about to take out the axle at one point, but decided to give it another shot with a second set of hands. Oh, he didn't even take off the wheels. The collection of tools he has though to get in there is pretty amazing. You will definitely need a ratchet where the head is on 45 degrees to the handle. He got all the bolts and screws from the bottom as well. No way to get it from the top.

Pass side is relatively easy, and can be DIY. For sure.

By the way forgot to mention. The driver side mount leaked out oil as soon as he flipped it out of the cup. The pass side mount was still sealed. I think it might have been changed, or there is really not much abuse on that side. It looked pretty much like the one I just purchased, no real noticeable wear. That's why he suggested I hold onto it. Either way, just watch your face when you flip the mounts, if the mount is shot, oil will come out. I though there was no oil, but apparently I was wrong.

Again, I can't even describe how happy I am now. No vibrations at all. Drive, reverse, at a light, nothing. The boat rocking during shifts is also gone.

Yea give your tactic a try. Might work better, especially if you are going to try and DIY this. Let us know how it goes. For what they charged me though, I would not even bother attempting this myself.

Hopefully won't have to do mine for years but I will let ya know if and when :). I was just saying that that's how I've done it in the past with other vehicles, every vehicle has it's quirks.

Glad it's nice now

I have the 3.0i and have done many repairs on my own. Do you guys think with the extra room, this is a DIY on my engine? There is no movement in reverse, in drive the engine raises almost 6 inches at less than 2k rpm!!

It is deff DIY-able, even on 4.8, I just didn't want to deal with it.

Lol I just saw this thread, and I wrote right side, driver side in initial post. I was like who is the retard that wrote that, should be left side, for driver side.

Slick - For my understanding, your symptoms of the bad mounts were the vibration, and then less vibration with the AC on? Thanks.

Correct. The more load on the engine, the less vibration. So higher RPM, reduced the feel. But I also had an audible thunk when taking off aggressively. Either way, once removed, we flipped the mount, and all the oil spilled out. Clearly no longer hydroloic.

This was one of the first jobs I needed to have done on my X5 when we first got it a few months back. I guess this could be a DIY job, but it is much harder on a V8 X5 than most other vehicles...access is a bitch. No way I wanted to do this job without a lift.

On my car, the tech removed the reinforcement plate...did that get done on yours Slick? If so, I hope you replaced the single use bolts.

Also, on my car, the passenger side mounting bracket was cracked, I gather from driving too long with bad motor mounts. While quite cheap considering the size and complexitity of the casting, ($79), replacing that is really tough. The A/C compressor needs to come out of the car. Also found out my transmission thermostat was cracked, and leaking coolant. So overall, the tech was at it for about 8hrs.

No when I did the mounts, I didn't have the bolts at the time. I now have a set of 12 in the garage, not including the ones I replaced shortly after. So yes, I replaced the bolts.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for posting. I have a 2003 X5 with these exact symptoms. If i buy these mounts, is it good stuff??

BMW E53 x5 3 0 Engine Motor Mount Mounts Left Right Set | eBay

Ill take it to a BMW repair friend for installation.
Thanks,
Jim

Not sure how to even answer you. That is some ebay stuff. These really aren't expensive direct from BMW. Search forum for Craig Hacker, he gives us club people discounts, basically 15% over cost.

You will have no idea what you are getting if you purchase on Ebay. There are many posts where owners have purchased parts from Ebay vendors that were not to spec or did not last as long as EOM parts. Check the prices at Bavauto or Google BMW parts and shop that way. I don't remember the name of the site but there is a site that will tell you the least cost source.

Furiousmethod.com - BMW Parts Price Comparison

Try the above link.

Awesome site! Thanks.

Just saying thanks for the info Slick. I was 95% sure my motor mounts were shot... and now am 100% sure. Will be DIY'ing this when I have the engine apart for valve stem seals, alternator bracket gasket, upper timing cover gaskets, and valve cover gaskets.

That's going to be one helluva week or two... not looking forward to it.

Good luck. If you take your axles out, you don't have to drop the subframe. Just need to jack the motor up a little and they will come out. It's a PITA at first trying to figure out how to get to the bolts, but once you do, it's really not too bad.

As far a parts: husker BMW or autohausaz. Don't go through all the work and have cheap in in parts.
Good luck

With the BMW part number you can compare prices of reputable vendors at Furiousmethod.com - BMW Parts Price Comparison.

I'm having that slight vibration feel as described above.

Since I already have a huge pile of parts for the rear suspension refresh (nearly 94k on her now), what's one more project? :yawn:

I needed a couple of other things so I'll just add this to the order.

Love the tip about taking the passenger side one out first, then tackling the driver side mount r&r and finishing by installing the new passenger mount.

Well, I tackled this today and I'm still struggling. Let's put it this way, the driver's side mount is not your friend. Passenger side isn't a cakewalk either, but it will come out if you lower the subframe on that side an inch or so. The problem is the front axle cv joints hit the body and prevent the motor from rotating enough to give room. It's stupid tight on the driver's side, as mentioned above. That's where I'm about to give up. :( My wife was hanging on the pry bar and I still didn't have enough room. It's a retarded design...

Pelican's website had a how to and had me thinking it would be a lot easier than it is but clearly they were working with a 6 cylinder X5. I should have known when their first steps wouldn't work (taking the nut/bolts out on the passenger side from above -- can't happen with my set of tools and I've got a ton of them...

Moral of the story is have a shop do your driver's side mount unless you have the half shaft out for some other reason. And, if you are taking the half shaft out, you might want to consider replacing the driver's side mount. Seriously...

No it is doable. You just need a small ass wrench, and drop the subframe a bit more than an inch. But it get scary at this point. Yea get a shop to do it.

While I appreciate the response, I did solve things...

diy replacing engine mounts 4.4i