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Valley pan
Hi Guys,
I am stuck at removing injectors. They have 2 clips,the wire one and a steel one from the side of the fuel rail.Which one should I remove? After the disaster I saw on the TB housing and under intake manifold(which BTW wasn't tighten by all the nuts) I am really gonna think twice before I let another mechanic touch it. Is there any trick to get those injectors removed?The manifold is half way removed,so I have a better access to all of the injectors,but since they are made of plastic,I don't want to break anything... |
Here you go! Valley Pan/Valve Cover Gaskets/OSV
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When I did the VP I left the injectors attached and pulled off the fuel rail - page 27 of the attached doc will walk you through it.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:X6RohJOLUs0J:www.xoutpost.com/article/BMW%2520Valley%2520Pan%2520Gasket.pdf+bmw+x5+4.4+h ow+to+remove+injectors&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=AD GEEShMxf7Unsg-ASLQUV1Uyt3FDzCJTUHwes7kqdF01NqBSPXQUWKsGaeatikjyG IvUpl3zwH-209jCiDsgja9gC3dDWEQm1e9s3iULEcAOJX4mbmT49_htN-AQgFankzXl370lkMh&sig=AHIEtbTafhYhX2hc0higoGNrgB_6 efZtCA |
Apparently I saw a clip on youtube with someone doing this job. After unbolting the black J boxes; instead of undoing the clips, you can just grasp the box on both ends and just give a swift tug up. It doesn't break anything and the clips stay on the box connectors. When re-installing, you can just set the box on top of the clips and just push down firmly to set the box back in place.
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I just got them off.
Now a new question. I am gonna go ahead with the VC gaskets,do I need to remove the Water Pump in order to get the upper timing covers off?I have a set of new gaskets and old ones are seeping. Also I see oil were the ignition coils are,fair amount :( |
You do not need to remove the upper timing covers to access the VCG. Just unbolt the VC off and it will come right out.
Don't worry about the oil. You can suck that out with a shop vac or atleast get as much out as you can. If you are redoing the plugs, the oil will just fall in and cause the motor to smoke when you start her up again. |
The thing is that upper timing cover gaskets are leaking,not extremely though.
I just don't want to bother with the Water Pump etc. Quote:
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It's funny to discover that CCV was so clogged,the oil return hose had no clamp and was clogged and loose.Bunch of missing clamps on the hoses.Loose nuts and bolts.
Valley Pan bolts(3 of them closest to the rear manifold) were loose,one of rear manifold bolts was loose,I could've turn it with my fingers. VC gasket was fitted right,with silicon etc,but I assume that the surface wasn't degreased because there was no bond. Now,Valley Pan is in and torqued to specs in X steps,the driver side VC is removed.Tomorrow I am gonna try to do the upper timing cover gasket and start assembling all the stuff back. Once all done,inspection with some suspension work and it's for sale. I with I sold it before the crap had hit the fan. |
The upper of 3 bolts on the passenger VC has stripped thread,and it was like that for at least 3 years.
Anyways,I spent 3 hours on each VC removing all the old silicon.Whoever did all the perimeter of the gaskets with Grey Silicon,I hated you today. Spark plugs were BMW branded NGKs and given that BMW is not selling them as a OE part anymore I assume these were originals,all the electrodes were 60% of original size,huge gap between ceramic and electrode itself. Now,both new VC gaskets are in place,new spark plugs are in place,coils are fitted and on Monday I am starting to put the cooling system back together,along the CCV and OSV. I knew that in some moment I would do it,so I had all the parts ready,although I decided not to go with upper timing covers gaskets. Now I am pretty sure that it's gonna be a last V engine I ever owe. |
After 3 afternoons and one entire day today,it's all back together with new Valley Pan,VC gaskets,intake manifold gaskets,CCV gasket,throttle body gaskets,rear manifold gaskets,new pipes from water pump to rear manifold,new gaskets on the pipes as well,few new hoses,new CCV valve,cleaned OSV and oil return hoses.
What a mess of stuff inside of OSV and hoses,completely clogged.At one point I almost gave up and thought that I would need to get new oil return pipes,but fortunately I was able to break through the goo with the wire and blow the crap down to the crankcase.I know,not the best of the options,but better than dealing with removing a hollow bolt etc. Once I reconnected everything I noticed the alternator cable that I forgot to run on top of the Valley Pan,well,had to fish wire it under the intake manifold,successfully. It started good,it took less than a second,a lot of smoke came out. I can definitely feel that it starts better with new spark plugs. |
Funny thing,I have a spare intake manifold spacer which I found in the intake port on top of the valves.It's kind of big to go lower and interfere ,so it didn't cause a lot of troubles,thankfully.
But come one,who ever left it there should be ashamed. |
And now I have leak from front end.
I am disappointed,to say the least. |
Confirmed,
Water pump gasket is leaking. |
Dammit! Sorry to hear...I know how frustrating it is to get finished with a big job like the VP and then something like a leak shows up. Where's the leak coming from - the pipes, the thermostat or where it meets with the lower cover?
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It's coming form the lowest point of Water Pump,where the lowest bolt is,the gasket is bad and I think it was seeping before as well.
New WP is ordered along the gaskets and a S-belt. My mechanic said to replace just a gasket,but after thinking a bit I decided to get a new Pump with metal impellers,so I can just forget about this for a while.Thermostat can get changed later on without removing the WP,so I am trying to keep the cost as low as possible since I already paid like $2500 this month.It was for some front end suspension(both struts,control arms,tie rod) and Valley Pan related parts.Thankfully I had a CVV and all the Valve Cover gaskets and intake related gaskets bought before,I saw it coming. Quote:
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Make sure you do a thorough diagnostic. here's my timeline and mis-diagnosed experience:
1) replaced WP/thermostat 2) coolant leak when cold, puddle in the front on level street, puddle in the back (toward firewall) when park on incline. 3) I said (and so did alot of peopel), damn the VP leaked. 4) so I did the VP, but leak persisted. it turned out to be 0-rings on coolant pipes going to WP were pinched. The solution is to reseat the WP, I dremelled three 10mm long lug-nut bolts(cut off the hex head and dremell a slot for small screw driver to turn them in into where the WP bolts go, these become the guide for WP to slide into place, once you secure the rest of original bolts these three will come out and replace by the original bolts if that make sense). Problem solved, I have not top any coolant in 1 year now. BTW this is on M62 4.4i engine only. |
This makes sense.
Both aluminum pipes were replaced by new ones as well the gaskets between WP and those pipes. Quote:
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GL. |
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But I read some horror stories on other board about Graf and am freaking out.
I think that it should be just fine. Quote:
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And finally decided to get an OEM Saleri branded WP.
Once received and installed I am gonna share the experience. Quote:
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I believe both Pelican-part and Bavauto carry Graf WPs and both outlets have been around so I doubt they carry poorly manufacture parts; if Graf was bad they'd droped it from their offering like hot-potato to protect their own reputations.
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That's a good point.
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Water pump is replaced and now a tiny coolant hose that goes from an auxiliary thermostat into the Water Pump is leaking.
Never Ending Story. Just ordered 3 hoses,why,can anyone tell me why they use plastic this much?To keep themselves busy replacing the cooling system more often? Anyways. Main 3 hoses are gonna get replaced and I hope it's gonna be it. Expansion tank cap is also ordered. |
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