I gutted my orig csv717 comp and nothing is evident, no shavings, scarring, burnt, worn etc, only a couple of scratches on the wobble plate. In studying the pressure passages I can draw a few conclusions FWIW and not being a mech engineer. Again I am looking for a reason the comp would turn internally but not compress initially.
The replaceable PCV in my opinion was not the culprit because its opening is far smaller than any one suc and discharge valve of even one piston to allow total bypass. I did however change it out to no avail. Also when all pressures are equalized at startup it could not create or uncreate a differential on its own.
The suc and discharge check flapper valves were not stuck open because it took hours for the high and low sides to equalize when the car was off. Besides there are 5 pistons give or take and a suc and discharge valve for each and no single alone valve for all. So even if one was stuck open the others combined would over take to create a differential I believe.
The wobble plate when spun by hand was flush causing no piston stroke. The wobbles plate is attached to a spring and the shaft has a half disc which I presume to be an offset weight so under fast revolutions of the engine compared to a hand turn, the offset weight causes the wobble plate to tilt for initial piston stroke. I would think that since my problem was consistent and only corrected under acceleration there could have been a problem with the wobble plate being under too much spring tension or that the shimming washers were not set right or wore if tolerances were critical.
So I did not find the exact problem only a solution. A mech engineer specializing on the subject would be helpful, however if I can help you in any way shoot me a line.

This thread has been a very interesting read, however, I think the problem I am experiencing is a little different.
When I turn My AC on, it gets cold ok, but it seems to put the car into limp mode or something. I narrowed it down by chance to the AC.
The car runs fine until you turn on the AC. It starts to misfire. Sometimes almost straight away, sometimes it may be 5 or 10 mins later.
No lights or warnings come up, just no power and a car that feels like its running on 5cyl.
Just today I thought I would try it and as soon as the engine revved over 2500 or so, I would get a terrible rattle out of the compressor. So it sounds like my compressor is shot, but I dont want to spend $1000 replacing that to find it still goes into limp mode.
Sorry if its a little thread jacking.
Ben.

Geauxfast, thanks for posting that, it's additional food for thought. It seems it's just better to replace the compressor when these symptoms pop up. It doesnt seem worth it to go repair it.

Benvette, that sounds like there could be an electrical problem (misfires) aside from your compressor, and they might be completely unrelated. I would probably start with checking for error codes. Good luck!

HOLY THREAD REVIVAL BATMAN!!! I have an 05 3.0 with this same issue. I know for certain the clutch is engaging, and it's spinning the compressor. I want to try the compressor control valve just for shiggles, but I am finding zero information on how to do it. I've seen those who said they did the valve (and it didn't help) but not how they did it. If anyone has done it and have a few pointers for me on the process or what to look for, I'd greatly appreciate it!

If there's interest in it, I'll do a proper write up w/photos when I do it. I just don't want to be completely blind when I start this.

Lol yeah I I've had this truck for that long!

Check post #15 of this thread, there is a PDF article of the teardown and valve replacement of a variable displacement compressor with pics.

The DME not sending the right signal can easily cause the grief described and the "refurbish" solutions usually mean reflow the bad solder joints.

I'm having a problem with my O2 sensor heaters and it's a fair chance there are some bad solder joints in there.

The aux fan has voltage applied always and a signal is sent directly to the fan that turns on a transistor. I don't know if it's a high signal or low signal for on or off it sends PWM for more speed but that seems how it works I don't see multiple windings.

I'm in the same boat. I've given up on replacing compressor as long as it works with the delay for now. Not sure until when.

If you have the Calsonic Kansei compressor than you have the variable displacement compressor. Most likely the solenoid that control the the variable diplacement of the compressor is not working properly so the compressor never get to the point that it is actually pumping refrigerant through the system at the very beginning. Once the engine had turned the compressor after awhile the compressor kicks in and enough refrigernt is flowing that the system is working. Never had any trouble with my fix displacement Denso compressor all the years that I own my X.

I'd choose to have the fixed one but as I know after 2002 the only compressor available is variable displacement design. It really has no stutter or change in the rpms when you switch it on, which is good and the cooling is really good but that solenoid valve just is so unreliable. If it is the problem is really the valve itself, not something else in the compressor.