Replacing Timing Chain Tensioner M62b46
 

I just did this today, I was getting a 1 second rattle on pretty much all cold starts where the X sat for more than a few hours. My X has 108,XXX on the clock. Keep in mind, i'm not sure yet if this will fix the issue, but i'll know in a few days and i'll update. I just wanted to get a writeup out there for the M62b46 specifically since most seemed to be for the M62b44.

Tools needed:
19mm socket
10mm socket
nut driver
ratchet
breaker bar - maybe (you probably don't need this, i didn't)
screw driver
pliers
paper towel/rag you don't mind getting oily.
Chain tensioner: 11317531813, i got it from autohausaz for $53 with free shipping
Time: 30 minutes

1) Pull off the 4 plastic fasters that keep the air intake on top of the radiator and disconnect the tube from the airbox (I disconnected it where the tube connects to the air intake, not where it connects to the airbox, as that will come out when you unbolt the airbox itself).

2) Unhook the secondary air pump hose that goes to the airbox cover (press in on the sides, slide out towards the front), undo the clips holding the cover on to the airbox base, undo the two clips that hold the MAF to the airbox cover. I didn't unplug the MAF as it didn't seem to get in the way. Remove the airbox cover, and the air filter.

3) Use the 10mm socket and remove the single bolt holding the airbox bottom to the chassis, on the passenger side of the airbox. With that out, you can just sort of wiggle the bottom up and around. Since there looks to be a vacuum line hooked up still, just flip the air box bottom over towards the driver side and let it rest on top of the intake tubing after the MAF.

4) At this point, everything is done by touch and you need smallish hands to get to where the tensioner is. First, place a piece of cardboard or something to catch spillage of oil under the passenger side of the X, it doesn't leak much, but i'm pretty sure there's no way to catch all the oil that will spill out when you take the tensioner out. Then put a rag or paper towel down on top of the lower A/C lines, be sure to get it underneath the tensioner head, so you actually catch some oil :-) When you look at the top of the passenger side of the engine block, the tensioner is just under that valve cover lip, between two A/C lines, nearly up at the front of the block. Because of how cramped it was though, I could barely see it and honestly pictures were pointless...although i'm thinking now i should have tried harder at least. If you want pics, I can disassemble again and grab them.

5) I used my 19mm socket and 3/8 ratchet and it was just enough clearance to undo the tensioner bolt. It took a bit of force, but a nice even, constant pressure pull on it released it. Once broken free, you should be able to get your hand in there and unscrew it. When you remove it, make sure you get both halves. Clean up as much oil as you can see. As a frame of reference, my old tensioner was about 1/4" shorter than the new one and had noticeably less spring tension.

6) I was able to install the new tensioner without compressing it first, your mileage may vary. Once again, by feel, guide the new assembly in, until the tensioner bolt was up against the block. Turn it reverse (like you're loosening it) for at least a half turn, preferably a full turn, this will seat the threads so you don't have to worry about cross threading. You'll need to be applying some pressure to it at this point obviously since the new tensioner has been released. You should be able to pretty much hand tighten it all the way. Get your 19mm socket back in there and snug it up, i couldn't find a good torque value anywhere, most people just said "snug it up". i'd say mine got nice and "snug" after about another 1/4 turn, maybe a little less.

7) Put your air box etc back together. When you fire it up for the first time it'll be a horrific noise for about 1 - 2 seconds while the new tensioner fills with oil etc. But after that, it should be smooth sailing. I had some residual ticks that went away after I brought the rev's up to about 2 - 2.5k. After that, she was quiet. I let her idle for a few minutes, checked under her to make sure there was no more leaking.

That's how I did it...I will update in a few days on whether or not it solved my rattle at startup. Hope this helps someone in the future who's on the fence about doing it.

Nice keep us updated. I never go a chance to instal a new tensioner, but I was under the impression that you install them still closed. The oil pressure was supposed to open it up. Not sure, just curious if that's a correct method of doing it.

Yeah i had also heard to try to install tensionsers while they were compressed, but I ended up doing it the same way in my old 318is (M42) and it worked just as well. This morning, I didn't hear a rattle, which is a good sign. But i'll wait a few more days for the verdict :-)

Lol, when I do my tensioners one day, I too will be way to paranoid about putting them in compressed. I don't know, just scared they won't open.

so i guess this was sucessful?

oops...forgot to update...it did not fix the startup rattle. What DID make the rattle become much less frequent/severe was switching back to BMW 5w-30 oil on the last oil service I did. At this point...I don't have any other updates otherwise. :-(

So what weight was you using prior to switching back to 5w30?

And why did you deviate from BMW recommendation for oil weight?

191,000 miles timing chain tensioner or oil delivery problem?
 

Hello Everyone,

I am a new registered user here.

Thank you for having me.

I am having an issue with my 2005 4.4l E53
I have 191,000 miles. I just received the title, free and clear, in the mail.
I have driven this since 43,000 miles. I have maintained it at the dealership the entire time that I have owned it.

I have just invested in plugs, coils, MAF, pre cat O2 sensors, belt tensioner, belt and pulleys.

I always get any abnormalities checked out, straight away. This one is the most frightening and I have had the most difficult time getting a straight answer for this repair.

I have just encountered this noise in the short clip below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCaraT3-QYU

I am hoping that there is some wisdom to be imparted to me, on this site, in regards to this issue.

Again, I am a newbee. If I should post this somewhere else, please advise. I couldn't figure out how to start a new thread.

video is private. We can't see it.

Sorry about that. I was trying to use my mac mini to upload and missed that. It should be public now.

Thank you for even looking!

can you rev it a bit? I would have to say that does not sound like chain. Sounds more like missfire, or even vac leak.

I am getting a persistent P2096 code which says it could be a vacuum leak on the engine or a MAF sensor fault or an Air leak near sensor or failed sensor.

As I stated earlier, I have replaced the MAF and the coils, plugs belt tensioner etc.

How would i go about finding a vacuum leak? I will try to get a revved engine video clip. The other weird think is that is intermittent.

It doesn't always do it on startup, nor all the time. I started it today and it was quiet and smooth. I let it warm up in the alley for about 5 mins and came out and it was making the noise so I took the video I posted. It has been running smoothly all day. Some days, it doesn't do it at all and it always subsides after a bit.

You saying that gives me hope as that is the exact error that I am getting.

Would or could a vacuum leak account for the "knocking/ticking type sound in the video?"

That video sounds like a timing chain noise.
Your engine has 2 tensioners,one on the passenger side and one on top close to water pump.
I would get those replaced and see if noise is reduced,if not..probably your chain guides are failing.
It's pretty common issue with M62 and my X is sitting with guides failed and waiting for spring time,so I can start taking things apart...but yours is N62 and it's a first time I see this happen on this engine,your miles are higher than of my X,so probably you should get some money aside and get ready for a repair.

Thank you both for the input.

I am curious as to what made SlickGT1 think that a vacuum leak could cause my engine to act up. I do have the code for the vacuum leak. It is the only one that is tripping.

If it is the timing chain tensioner, should I be able to have the guides replaced as well without a lot of additional labor?

Also, do timing chains actually stretch or is that a perception because of the tensioner losing strength? I am asking because I think the engine has to practically come out of the car to do the timing chain. If that is the case, I am looking at many dollars and some tough decisions.

Other than that noise, the car is in amazing shape and purrs like a kitten...

Have you checked the spark plugs to see if any are loose? I've had a loose plug which gave a similar noise before. It's an easy no risk check to do before you buy parts and dive into a chain tensioner replacement.

flatlander,

Thank you for the input! I would check that, but I just replaced the plugs about a week and a half ago. The problem was presenting itself before this and now after. The only code that still presented after the plugs, coils and MAF is the P2097 which is indicating a possible vacuum leak.

is there a chance that a vacuum leak could cause this symptom (noise) in the video I posted?

Thank you all again!

Definitely check your plugs, since you have recently replaced them. Check for proper torque.

The Vacumm leak would sound differently. I can't think of how it would be related to that noise.

You mentioned that you changed your MAF. You should check all your airflow connections, since you may have left one loose or disconnected.

sounds like exhaust leak,

Gurjit,

Are you speaking of an internal exhaust manifold leak or downline?

my right side exhaust is leaking somewhere,
when i start the car u can hear a little bit of farting/air noise from the passenger wheel well, and thats where i hear that tick tick noise

i put my hand on the motor, front cover aswell and its very smooth, i got 110,000km so it cant b timing chain as the noise comes and goes depending on engine temp/exhaust manifold temp

my guess is where the exhaust manifold meets the mid-pipe donut conection or directly from the port out of the cylinder head

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIBJq7pDIjs

Here is another video I just took.

If it is excess exhaust manifold where you say it might be, is that a very large job to undertake? I guess I'm referring to having somebody else do it. is that a difficult job/Big money?

Thank you for your input!

P2097 states a pre-cat O2 sensor.

Pair that with the sound, and it can be an exhaust leak as Gurjit is suggesting.

Yea it is not your chain.

Thank you so much everyone, For your input.

So, am I correct in assuming that you are stating that ticking noise is/could be a product of an exhaust leak?

The P2097 code is a pre-cat sensor fault. I have replaced both of those as well. Since I did that, I got the descriptions for some other makes of automobiles with the same code. I cross-referenced it with the GM descriptions for that same code and it indicates a vacuum leak Or a faulty MAF or a leak near the MAF. I did just replace the MAF as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay8gS8tJ5EQ

I just drove for about 35 miles. I stopped to take a leak and listen for the noise and there's no noise. I did not shut the car off from the previous video that I posted.
My apologies for the wind noise, but I'm in the middle of nowhere.

The intermittent aspect is what perplexes me the most

CUST SERV. 800-831-1117

E53 X5 SAV PL 1|
| OP NUMBER : 1131051 TOTAL $ 8156.48 |
| MODIFIER : |
| 1. OPERATION : Timing Chain, r&r (ADD Oil & Filter) |
| 2. DESCRIPTION: 4.4i 04/06 |
| 3. HOURS : 55.00 LABOR: 5933.00 SPG LABOR CODE: C |
| |
| 15. BM11-31-7-533-479 GUIDE RAIL 1 0 91.76 91.76 |
| 16. BM11-31-7-533-489 GUIDE RAIL 1 0 66.30 66.30 |
| 17. BM11-31-7-533-483 CHAIN TENSIONER 1 0 69.30 69.30 |
| 18. BM11-31-7-533-488 BOLT 1 0 16.84 16.84 |
| 19. BM11-31-7-548-033 OIL SPRAYING NOZZLE 1 0 39.38 39.38 |
| 20. BM11-14-1-439-717 GASKET F TIMING CASE 1 1 39.93 39.93 |
| 21. BM11-12-7-513-194 GASKET SET, CYLINDER 1 2 134.51 134.51 |
| 22. BM11-12-7-513-195 GASKET SET, CYLINDER 1 2 134.51 134.51 |
| 23. BM11-13-7-545-293 GASKET STEEL 1 1 54.88 54.88 |
| 24. BM11-43-1-287-541 O-RING 1 -1 5.40 5.40 |
| 25. BM11-13-7-506-774 GASKET STEEL 1 2 45.56 45.56 |
| 26. BM11-36-7-546-379 O-RING 4 8 7.36 29.44 |
28. BM11-14-7-506-424 GASKET STEEL 1 2 28.12 28.12 |
| 29. BM11-14-7-506-425 GASKET STEEL 1 4 28.12 28.12 |
| 30. BM11-14-7-558-914 SHAFT SEAL 1 0 88.30 88.30 |
| 31. BM11-21-7-528-438 SPROCKET 1 0 118.25 118.25 |
| 32. BM82-14-1-467-704 COOLANT 2 29 23.80 47.60 |

PARTS: $ 2042.70 |
| LABOR: $ 5933.00 |
| BULK FLUIDS: $ 5.00 |
| MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS: $ 49.92 |
| TAX: $ 125.86 |
| ================ |
| TOTAL: $ 8156.48 |

This is the dealer quote for timing chain and parts .....^

FIFTY FIVE HOURS OF LABOR ?????????????????????????

Tell that dealer to eat shit.

I would love to tell them that. My problem is intermittent at the moment.
My question is...

Even if I do these repairs, I have 191000 miles on the car. the interior is immaculate and the outside is in great shape as well. I have also had the eccentric shaft done under warranty on this one.

At what point does it make more sense to get a used engine from BMRparts?
My indy shop seems a little scared to tackle the timing chain.

I could get one from BMRparts and it would have 60-70,000 miles on it. They also offer a lifetime engine warranty for 35% of the cost of the engine.

The cost of the engine and installation at the dealer is about $6,000

any advice for this frustrated BMW owner who did everything by the book and is now faced with this?

To me it sounds like a chain and I told that in my post above.
It sounds a bit different from M62 but it can be just because your engine has 2 primary chains for each bank instead of one on M62.

It's gonna be quieter after longer drives because you get your engine warm and oil or right viscosity,so everything is expanded and tighter.
I wouldn't worry much unless you start getting the timing related fault codes.

Thank you for you input. I didn tknow that there were specific timing codes. I did just throw a bunch of misfire codes. That is killing me because i just did the MAF, Plugs and Coils.

Extremely perplexed in regards to the misfire codes
they were are follows:

P2096 (post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1)
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P0306 Cyl 6 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cyl 3 Misfire Detected
P0307 Cyl 7 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cyl 2 Misfire Detected

Could these misfires be related to a timing issue?

You are gonna find a plenty of thread about misfires on N62 engines.
Usually happening during colder time of the year.

Hi Duboy,

Very nice write up. I have an 03 4.6is, I suppose my engine is most likely layout the same way as yours. Anyway, I purchased the tensioner and tried to install it today. I removed the air intake, took out the airbox and placed it on top of the engine cover.

The space that opened up shows the ac lines but not the tensioner bolt. I reached down and by feel found a lug protruding from the side of the engine block.

I tried to put my deep socket 19mm socket over it, but it just won't go in.

Can you post a picture of the socket you used on this job?

I'm wondering if mine is too big so when I pushed it in the outer edge of the socket got caught on something around the tensioner lug.

Much obliged!

Theo

Hey,


I used a spark plug socket with a ratchet,plenty of room once you know where it is.
Keep on trying you'll get it off