A few weeks ago when I tested my freon with a can gauge (Artic Freeze Ultra Synthetic 134a that I bought, it read between the line where it supposed to be: 30 to 45psi. So i leaved it alone and don't wanna add anymore. That was for the lower port side, but I'm not sure about the higher port.

yeah, i remember that post... lol... I just got more patience, i think it comes with the territory - i live in a small shack in a country side, you live in a fast, bustly metropolitan city - you have to be fast... To be honest, in my line of work I have to explain a lot of technical things to people of various backgrounds - in one country they think electricity is a God-given miracle, while in other places (read: Moscow) we have PhDs working as security guards and they can teach me a few things about electronics... lol... so, I line up for the least common denominator... lol...

My lower feeding port side read between: 30 to 45psi with a can gauge
Arctic freeze fully synthetic 134a that I bought 3 weeks ago. So I'm not
sure about the higher port side.

Dude, the $20 can of 134 is absolute bs for these cars. It cannot compare to a $5000 recovery and delivery machine. The systems in this car are sensitive, requiring less that a pound of refrigerant. Did you follow all instructions as well? Did you account for ambient temp outside?

Thanks for the advice SlickGT1
ButI didn't really use the freon in it, I bought the can for $29
which was the longuest one and the cheapestI could find online.
I used it just to measure the capacity inside the system but,
as it appeared to be at the normal level: It was about:96 degree outside
and it reads from: 35 to 45psi. So there were no need to add more freon.

I think the bad behavior came from my auxiliary fan that has not been working and caused my A/C to be running warm specially when stopped.

Alright. Listen, the low side pressure reading alone cannot tell you if you system is full, over or under filled. Some of these guys know what they are talking about.
Pay attention.
Give details.

You think it is full. Doesn't matter.
It sounds like you need to talk about what the auxiliary fan is doing and why yo think it's bad (other that the ac not working right)

If you are not going to listen stop asking questions.



And even the free crap-tastic gauge attached to the $29 can of refrigerant is crap. And you still hace no way of knowing what the high side is doing.

Sent from my SGH-i917 using Board Express

Sweet: Check the Aux fan and the associated relay which I think you have pictured. You only get cooled air when there is air moving through the radiator. If the aux. fan/relay is bad then the only time the radiator is getting cooled is when the vehicle is moving.

Thanks apreciated guys for your input!
And I will check that relay pictured to see if that was the culprit
causing my aux fan to not working when A/C kicks in.
Otherwise I don't remember how much the higher port should read
but I'm pretty sure once the aux fan starts working again,
the A/C performance specially when stopped at traffic will be ok.

I tested the connector that bring the power to the fan, and Yes
there's power there even when engine's not running, but I never
see that fan spinning when A/C running.

If the poster is new to the forum and has an AC issue, many here will tell the OP to check the low pressure reading, if the system is in working order it may only need a topping off of R134a. Many here are well aware that the high pressure reading will give more insite into the overall condition of the AC system.
As for the the need of a $5000 machine to work on these systems, this is incorrect. I personally use the Inficon Vortex machine to service my own vehicles, you can pick these up for under $300 used on E-Bay (currently one for $265 buy it now).

Many shops will not due what the owner instructs during AC repair/maintenance due to time and materal costs. Some will evac a system for only a few minutes after a failed part is replaced when a 30 minute evac may be better, some shops will return the old Pax (compressor) oil when the owner has instructed that new oil be installed during a service. DIY is the best bet, you know what you have.

Tiag, the op is clearly not going to buy a $300 machine when they are looking for the cheapest can to buy. The point is, that $29 can, aint going to do much, or even give an accurate reading. And the shop that does have the $5000 machine, is that, a shop. I am sure it is meant to be more than a DIY unit. That Vortex does look tits though.

Everyone read post 16. He is ok if the temps are below 90. This by itself, means the system can't exchange all the heat. Yea there is an off chance the AC blower is messed up. It is cheaper to go to an AC shop and have them diagnose the system.

High and Low need to be accurately measured.