Best Thrust Bushing Tool
 

Can someone point me in the dirrection of a good tool for pressing in/out a front suspension thrust arm bushing?

Baum tools make a very nice hydraulicly operated one, but that looks too expensive, as I don't own a Porta-power. I do have a shop press at home though, but it would be ideal to have a tool that can press the bushing without removing the arm from the car.

Thanks

Ohhh...I am pretty sure most her take the arm out and press it off the car. If you don't mind me asking, why do you prefer to replace the bushing instead of replacing the entire arm? The price difference is almost negligible.

Just IMHO, I'd rather take it off and put a new one in instead of finding a PITA bushing won't come out and stressing out.

Just curious.

But if you have a shop press, do you mean it is a drill press or a hydraulic press? If Hydraulic press, how many tons?

The main reason I wanted to swap the bushings is to use the Meyle HD bushings instead of the stock ones.

As far as the press, I did mean a hydraulic press. I think it's 10 ton but it might be more. But I do also have a nice mid 50's Walker Turner drill press. But even if the arm has to come off the car, having the exact tool to press with is much better than using a big socket or bushing driver.

lol, As soon as I wrote that, I thought, "He probably wants the Meyles in there lol. I think I saw somewhere where you can buy the arm with the meyle bush already in there. Let me try to find it. I think it was only a few dollars more. IIRC

just take the arm off any slip any random mechanic $20 to press in the new ones?

No way. I prefer to do my own work. I will buy specialty tools when I need them and I do have a hydraulic press already. I don't have a lift, so as I'm getting older, I like working on my back less and less, (although I just swapped a tranny at home a few months ago in my Jeep ZJ). But suspension work is genererally easy. I am not your average home tinkerer. I am probably better equipped at home than most A techs. To give you an idea, this is what my toolbox looks like, (and it's pretty much packed):

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/DSC07446.jpg

Nice! That is bigger than my first apartment.

:2thumbs::mantis::idhitit::pulp:

I am jealous!!!

good stuff, I do a lot of my own work also, but my rule is that if it costs more for me to buy the tools I'll probably never use again then I'm just going to pay. Especially if it's over something like $20.

It might be the same or similar tool to the rear trailing link on the 3 series. The bushings seem to be of similar size. I don't have that tool though. Last time, I just went at it the hard way, with a sawzall.

Well from what I read here, these thrust arm bushings don't last all that long.

But that's why I posted here. The Baum tool is $500+ and also requires a hydraulic pump (like a Porta-power). Too much for me. There were loads of not-too-expensive bushing tool options that I saw on eBay...I just have no idea which if any are good, and which will even do the job. And I'm sure there are a number of options that are not on eBay either. But I am talking about saving several hundred dollars on shop labor to change a number of front suspension components all at once. So I'd rather spend that same money on tools, since my labor is "free", and then I will have the tools for future jobs.

I guarantee I could do this without any special tools; I do have some big sockets, and I've got a large Snap-on bushing driver set. But it would be better to have the exact driver and "receiver" support (for the other side as you press), as that is always better and safer. A hydraulic press can be dangerous, and especially if you try to press something that's not 100% square, it can be a problem. Also, in the case of these bushings, you definately need something on the backside as you press, as they protrude from both sides of the arm. Even better would be if the tool has a threaded rod of some sort so you could change them on the car.

lol...I don't think you could put them IN with the sawzall though!

I was planning on using my 12 ton press I bought from harbor freight for ~$150

However I wasn't able to release the thrust rod at the ball joint - i had so much pressure on the puller that it popped off! Not sure how else to do it without using a pickle fork and possibly destroying it.

What type of press were you using to try to get the arm off?

One of these gear pullers:

Craftsman 2-3 Jaw Gear Puller - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Automotive Specialty Tools

I eventually put the impact on it and only made a few turns before it popped off.

Definitely NOT the best tool for the job. You need to get one of these similar to the factory tool shown in the Bentley Manual. There are several versions of this tool around in the market. I have not done this job yet, so I don't know which is best. I have several of these; a smaller one from Stahlwille, and two from a K-D front end kit. There's also one with a Honda part number. AST also sells them. The longer style looks to be closest to the BMW factory tool shown here. There are sets of these on eBay where you can get the short and long version for $69. But at that price, I assume Chinese copys. Still better than what you are trying to use:

Had I have known how much force was needed to release it I wouldn't have even tried. Thanks for the info on those tools I'll probably invest in the factory kit.

Do you have a source that stocks the factory tools? I thought I had found what I needed; Baum Tools had the factory bushing tool on their web site (312260), but said they don't have it or even have any clue if it's available, but they are checking. So I'm still looking.

If I were you, I, Id get the AST tool:

VW, Mercedes, BMW, Volvo, Volkswagen, Audi, Ford, Dodge and other Tools for Specialty Applications

I was looking up those tools you were talking about on e-bay and all of them seem competent enough to tackle the job. They are all made in china, so pick your poison. The Baum tool set would be best, but not at $500.

As for the ball joint removal tool, I had to do this job again. The first time around I just used a pickle fork, but damaged the old boots so badly, I had to replace them. So if you are planning to replace the Tension strut and ball joint, forget about removing it. Just loosen the bushing from the frame and then unbolt the ball joint from the swivel bearing. From there, just pound the ball joint off. Then just put the new parts in.

If you need to save the ball joint or just plan on replacing the bushing in the tension strut, then you can just go to harbor freight tools. They have a similar product and I bought it for $10. Used it twice and it still looks brand new and did a fine job.

Just my $.02. I am a tool whore and will always buy the best tools money can buy, but... if I can find a comparable tool for tell money and does the job, I will buy it.

Would I love a set of Snap-on everything. Sure as hell I would. The only Snap on equipment I have are my torque wrenches I purchased from a estate sale and various universal joints i purchased at flea markets when the guy selling it had no idea what snap on was and I bought stuff for $.50 to a $1.00. I own Craftsman wrenches, sockets, etc. Lifetime warranty, they are strong and look good. I personally don't like polished Chrome. I'd rather have the finish sandblasted and have that Matte look, but not willing to pay a premium for it.

BTW if anyone is wondering about Craftsman's warranty, it is excellent. I've broken 2 3/8" ratchets, a 19mm socket, a box end wrench when the chrome started to flake off. All replaced within minutes, no questions asked. I like it.

When I did need specialty took, I purchased them at Samtagsales.com and metainerd.com

What seems pretty critical is the size of the cups. I'm reluctant to put done money on one that does not specifically say it will be the exact right size for the E53. If I wanted just sort of close, (without spending 500 for a master set), I already have a ball joint press accessory set that has a lot of different cups...I'll just try that.

I already have two versions of the equivalent for the factory tool. I've used these many times on BMWs and other cars before...they never damage the boots of ball joints or tie rods.

Sears is currently in the process of transferring manufacturing of all of their hard line tools to China. So when that next Craftsman tool breaks, you may well get back a Chinese made replacement..and possibly of a different design. Not to mention that Sears is not doing particularly well these days....it may not even be around much longer. If you want really nice American made tools, and don't want to pay Snap-on prices, I would consider S-K. The have been reborn out of bankruptcy with new owners and a new factory. Very nice stuff.

Yea but I can put them in with a big ass bolt and two washers.

This is how I did them:
Used a bushing tool and a hydraulic press to push them out. But the rubber bushing doesn't fit flush in the sleeve that needs to be pushed in so I pushed the rubber out of one of the old bushings and used the remaining sleeve to push in the new one... took about a half hour to do both sides.

lot of people are talking about the thrust arm bushing or the bushing in the steering knuckle it connects to without saying which they are talking about.

apart from that, lots of good info, carry on.

Huh? Both the control arm and the thrust arm have a bushing, neither has a bushing at the steering knuckle end.

Yup; the shiny new bushings go in a lot easier than the old ones come out, especially in the rust belt.


The thrust arm that's being discussed is most likely #6 in this diagram; bushing on the inboard end, ball joint on the outboard.
http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/f/b/193.png

I haven't torn into the front end bits on an X5 yet; good to see there are replaceable ball joints on the control arms.

Also, if the control arm bushings tend to wear out quickly, I wonder if a spherical bushing could be made to work on these cars. One of the guys on the mye28.com forum developed & is selling spherical UCABs that fit the e28, e32 & e34. What he's currently selling isn't likely the same size as what's needed on the e53, but it might not be a huge task to get a set made. Hmmm... http://mooseheadengineering.com/#ecw...roduct=6647004

>davintosh

Yes, we are talking about no. 6 in the diagram.

Even if something like that Moosehead Bushing was available for the X5 thrust arm bushing, there's no way I would use it. While I do plan on using the slightly stiffer Meyle bushings, that's as far as I'm willing to go in terms of giving up on compliance. I live in an area where potholes and bumpy roads are common. If they need to be replaced again at some point in a couple of years, so be it.

What bushing tool did you use? (That was the point of this thread.)

I've used a 12-ton hydraulic press on bushings like that before, but always have limited success in getting them out. Last set I tried getting out (rear trailing arm bushings on an e32) I bent the crap out of the lower part of the press (it was a $150 Northern Tools bargain piece) so I ended up resorting to the Sawsall method; crude but effective.

But like others have said before, the thrust arms with bushings already in place aren't much more expensive than just the bushings, and it's far easier to replace the whole assembly.

number 15 is the thrust arm bushing that goes into the knuckle.

also, spherical setups have less play (more feel) and wear faster than rubber or urethane bushings. it's why you find them in race cars and not street cars.

At this point I have searched all over the internet, and have not been able to find a tool to press out this bushing. A couple of places, like Baum, had the factory tool (312260) on their web site, but did not have it in stock, and had no clue as to when they could get it, and for what price. The factory tool is a pretty simple item; basically just a cup to support the arm as the bushing is pressed through, and a puck that does the pressing. I am certainly open to alternatives to the factory tool, but so far the only tool sets that claim coverage for this car are the "Master" sets ranging from $500-1,000. At the high end of that range we are talking hydraulicly operated tools that include a Porta Power type 10 ton pump.

So I am still looking for this simple tool, and am still open to suggestions.

Another option is to make my own tool. Does anyone have one of these bushings on hand that they could measure the outside diameter and total depth for me? I've ordered a set of Meyle bushings, but they are not here yet.

Success! I found an outlet for this tool. A company called MIStools:
MIS Tools - Home

While they do not currently produce this tool, they advertised a very similar tool for the E30/E36/Z3/E46 M3 on eBay.(these are on their web site.) When I enquired, Mr. Siddiqui assured me that they had made a tool for the X5 in the past and were thinking of bringing it to market. He agreed to machine one up for me. I will report back as soon as I try it out.

I'll have pricing for the factory ball joint tool when my guy gets back Monday.

Just bumped into this; tool rentals through Moosehead Engineering. Looks like the Sir Tools BMW3021 should do this job for you with the control arm on the car. Go figure.

The description doesn't specifically say it'll work on the X5, but I would be surprised if the diameter of the X5 bushing is different enough from the listed cars that it wouldn't work.

I looked into that tool, and I don't think it's the right dimension for the X5 bushing.

As an update, I just received the bushing tool from MIS Tools. Looks like it will work fine. I'll post a further update once the job is done. I am still waiting for the ball joints to show up to be able to do the job.

@ Skyline, would you be willing to Rent the tool out to members in this forum?

I'd prefer not at this point. There's definately a good amount of wear and tear on the threaded rod due to the force involved. The force to press this bushings out, and new ones in is huge,. (thiese things are pretty big). I had to run a die over the rod in-between sides. I need to get another piece of threaded rod before it can be used again. I used oil on the rod for the second one...but did not for the first; that might have been my problem. So while the machined parts of the tool look like they will last indefinately, the threaded rod may be good for only one pair.

But given the cost difference between a pair of arms with bushings in them, and just a new set of bushing, this tool will easily pay for itself the first time, and still save you $75 or so.

Here, Previous owner installed thrust arm bushings incorrectly - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Looks like that could work for pulling the bushing out.. Wonder how he pushed it back in

pushed it in the same way it was pushed out. The important step is to align it straight before applying force.

easy day

Right Meyle HD Control Arm

Left Meyle HD Control Arm

I just bought these...........

Right Meyle HD Control Arm

Left Meyle HD Control Arm

I just bought these...........

Did the same thing by the time I got the right tool and all it would have been more expensive than just buying arms with bushings pressed in already :)

Not to mention more work!

More work, yes. More expensive, no. Tool cost me $110 shipped. Pair of bushings $72. Total $182. Pair of thrust arms with bushings is $258. (Plus some additional shipping cost on the arms from ECS.)