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-   -   lets talk rear suspension. (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/89499-lets-talk-rear-suspension.html)

theblue 10-08-2012 11:25 AM

lets talk rear suspension.
 
So now that I've cleaned up the front of my X5 it's apparent that there is a good bit of clunking from the back.

What I want to know is: what are the most common failure items that I should look into replacing. I've done a quick visual check and all I can really see that is bad looking is one of the subframe mounts. So what in the back tends to fail often that I should consider replacing if I don't feel like just replacing EVERYTHING.

ECS Tuning 10-08-2012 11:37 AM

The rear ball joints (LINK) and wishbones (LINK) are two of your common wear and tear areas on the rear of the X5. I'd start with those along with getting the sub frame mounts repaired.

Ricky Bobby 10-08-2012 12:02 PM

From what I can tell besides the rear subframe bushings, I would replace the Wishbones, Guide links, integral links, and ball joints, I prefer to take care of the major items at once so as you're not unbolting the suspension twice.

For subframe bushings, make sure you go with Meyle HD (same quality as the thrust arm replacements)

epdarks 10-08-2012 12:36 PM

I will be overhauling the rear soon too, I have a list of part numbers at home on my iPad I can post later.

The only part that hasn't been mentioned are sway bar bushings.

davintosh 10-08-2012 12:52 PM

Ricky Bobby hit the big ones. Here are the part numbers we're talking about.
2 Ball joint 33326767748
2 INTEGRAL LINK 33326770749
2 Guiding suspension link 33326774796
1 Wishbone, left 33326770859
1 Wishbone, right 33326770860

I've been targeting the same stuff & have found several threads about those items (and started one or two myself); http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...hing-tool.html
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...all-joint.html
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...tempt-2-a.html

katit 10-08-2012 01:14 PM

Very timely post. I can tell that pressed in bushings in my X5 already bad. I tend to do "all at once" and this thread very helpful.

Does anybody know answers to following?

1. At about what mileage we can consider suspension "shot"? My car has 112k miles right now
2. Is OE is a way to go or there is specific brands that will last as long? I need another 100k out of this car
3. When I brouse realoem - there is "Value line" parts and they sold in kits. "Value" sounds like "cheap and bad" :) Am I wrong on this one?
4. What about shocks? They not leaking but I feel like it's time to get new ones.. Is Bilstein HD's is the way to go?

I was thinking about leaving subframe bushings alone. In my E39 they original at 220k.. Is it a weak spot in E53?

epdarks 10-08-2012 05:31 PM

katit,

At 100k miles, you are due for a suspension inspection at minimum. My guess is you will find items to replace.

In my opinion, OEM or a high quality aftermarket... don't go for the "value" line. Any indy shop will likely tell you the same thing.

Shocks... Billy HD or OEM seems to be the most popular.

Have the subframe bushings looked at by an indy if possible. They are a $1200 job if you are paying them to do it, I made a few calls on those today.

katit 10-08-2012 05:41 PM

I do all the work myself, so I save there already. And I'd rather replace as much as I can even if it's a little overkill just to make sure it's good to go for a while.

epdarks 10-08-2012 06:17 PM

I'm with you, but do you really feel like doing a 10 hour subframe job if it is not necessary?

When I read the DIY on the forum, X5girl makes it look like a breeze.

When I talked to the tech at my indy he said it's a nightmare of a job. 6 hours for his techs, and 10 for a rookie.

davintosh 10-08-2012 06:28 PM

The nice thing about the subframe bushing job is that it can be done on the car, and each corner can be done in turn. I don't think worn subframe bushings are necessarily a safety concern, so driving it with the clunking is more a nuisance than anything.

I spent last Saturday afternoon replacing the front-right bushing on mine (which destroyed my home-built puller) and will tackle the rest once the puller I ordered arrives, and I'm betting the rest of the job will go much more quickly than that first bushing. I've heard the $1200 quote as well, and just can't justify paying that much when I can do it on my own. Some might balk at the opportunity cost of a 10-hour DIY job like that, but I don't mind it at all. I'd rather spend the money on the parts and the right tools, then know the job is done right.

FWIW, I'll make the puller tool available for rent when I'm done with the job. PM me for details.

theblue 10-08-2012 09:24 PM

I don't see how just the 4 subframe bushings can be 10 hours if you have the special tool... maybe 1.5 hours per corner.

what are the doing, dropping the whole subframe and using a real press?

lots of good info so far, keep the input coming.

theblue 10-09-2012 02:06 PM

while considering all my options, I found this setup which looks like a good deal, had anybody run these from Blau?

BMW X5 4.4i Strut Shock Absorber Kit - E53 Chassis - 2000-06

theblue 10-09-2012 02:12 PM

thoughts on this subframe tool?

Amazon.com: BMW Subframe Bushing Tool Set ( E53 Rear ): Everything Else

davintosh 10-09-2012 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theblue (Post 901252)

Looks just like the Baum Tools item I bought through eBay yesterday, priced about $25 less than the one I bought. :rolleyes: Probably the same item, just a different retailer. Mine was sold by El Paso Tool, but now that I've already clicked the big "buy" button I see that Komen Tools also has an eBay listing for that same item, and there's another similar tool, for $280. Oh well; mine is already on the way, and those others would probably break anyway. ;)

Baum Tools makes B334140X5, but doesn't sell to the public. El Paso Tool and Komen Tool are likely just retailers. Wonder what they pay for the tool...

http://www.baumtools.com/search/_bb_...1329419911.jpg

theblue 10-09-2012 08:04 PM

want to rent me your tool to recoup some of the cost when you are done? I can wait a couple weeks?

davintosh 10-10-2012 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theblue (Post 901292)
want to rent me your tool to recoup some of the cost when you are done? I can wait a couple weeks?

You bet! You'll be the first (of many, I hope) on my list. I'll send you a PM when I'm closer to being ready to send it out. Thanks!

Russianblue 10-10-2012 08:59 AM

Put me on the rent list too!

Re: the Blauparts kit.

That certainly is a complete kit! Those LOOK like KYB shocks to me and from a little reading on the web, perhaps they are custom valved for Blau?

I have never used KYB because i have had very good luck with Bilstein, Koni and Boge. In my experience, new dust protectors, shock mounts, all those ancillary items making up the majority of that picture....not necessary. I actually get RID of the dust boots typically.

I understand the want to do things just right, but 95% of the result is the type/quality of the strut/shock IMHO.

replace mounts if they are a poor design (e36 rears) or broken/noisy, but generally, save your money. re-use your old hardware. maybe order new spring pads if you want. bump stops....i'd probably re-use. is your X riding the bump stops very often?

do you have a spring compressor? i once did some e23 springs and i have a feeling the X will be a similar PITA. LOL!!

davintosh 10-10-2012 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russianblue (Post 901330)
Put me on the rent list too!

Done; thanks!

As for the Blauparts strut/shock package, I'd worry about the quality on them as well. There are a lot of cheap & crappy Chinese knockoff parts around these days, and they'll work ok at first, but just won't hold up like the brands we know & love. Not bad if you don't mind redoing a job every 10,000 miles.

Bilstein front struts will cost around $250 each, and are well worth it. If Russianblue is right and those are rebranded KYBs, I'd spend the money on Billies, then replace the other parts as needed, just so I wouldn't have to spend the same money again in 3-4 years.

Ricky Bobby 10-10-2012 03:14 PM

what are you looking to rent the tool for?

I honestly was toying with just buying 1 replacement bushing and seeing how long it would take me to do 1 with a sawzall and blowtorch and a floor jack to press in place, and leave the new bushing in the freezer overnight so it shrinks the rubber a bit before install.


if i can get it done with those tools rather simply, I may pass on the rental. But definitely not giving an indy 600 in labor for it when I can rent a tool from you.


I am getting my thrust arms/wishbones and ball joints up front replaced in the coming weeks to correct my vibrations and clunking, and while its at my indy i'll have him estimate what it would cost me to have the 4 subframe bushings done by him. i'll report back when i have something.

theblue 10-10-2012 11:27 PM

after much research I'm at the following (not everything ordered yet:

Subframe Bushings ORDRED
blunttech x4 $117 shipped
FEBI Subframe Mount - Rear,W0133-1665412 - Blunt Tech.com

Ball Joints - HAVE

Integral Link - $20 x2 $40 shipped
BMW Integral Link - FCP 33321090030 | FCP Euro

Guiding suspension link x2
$37 x2 shipped = $74
BMW E53 Control Arm X5 3.0 4.4 4.8 REAR 00-06 NEW L=R | eBay

Wishbone Left
$47 shipped
BMW E53 Control Arm X5 3.0i 4.4i 00-06 REAR UPPER LEFT | eBay

Wishbone Right
$47 shipped
BMW E53 Control Arm X5 3.0i 4.4i 00-06 REAR UPPER RIGHT | eBay

$503 BLAUFERGNUGEN full suspension package ORDERED
BMW Shocks - BMW X5 Shocks - Blausport BMW X5 Shock Absorber Kit


Rear Pads + Rotors blunttech $78 ORDERED

davintosh 10-10-2012 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby (Post 901374)
what are you looking to rent the tool for?

I honestly was toying with just buying 1 replacement bushing and seeing how long it would take me to do 1 with a sawzall and blowtorch and a floor jack to press in place, and leave the new bushing in the freezer overnight so it shrinks the rubber a bit before install...

That's probably a good plan, to just test with one (but I'd suggest you buy all four so you can finish the job if it goes well.) I put the bushings in the freezer also, and I'm sure that helped. A floor jack will work to get it in, but when I did it, the corner weight of the vehicle wasn't enough to press it in; had to apply a little heat to the subframe, which allowed it to drop down onto the bushing slowly. I've seen others that have looped a chain between the top of the subframe and the lower frame of the floor jack so it's got something more than the weight of the vehicle to push against; if I were going to do it again, that's what I'd try.

As for rental fees, I was thinking $50 for a rental fee (provided it's returned in a reasonable amount of time.) I'd probably run the rental thing similarly to how I've seen others do it; you, the renter, would pay me up front the replacement cost of the tool ($300) which becomes the rental fee plus deposit. I would ship the tool to you (my cost) with tracking info/insurance, and when you're done with it you'd ship it back (your cost) with tracking info/insurance. When I confirm that all the pieces are there and nothing is broken/damaged I refund your deposit. Keep in mind, this is just preliminary, as I don't even have the tool yet, and I haven't taken a lot of time to work it all out in my head. But I'm not looking to profit hugely with this rental thing, just offset the cost of the tool a bit. And if it's a help to some of you guys as well, that's all the better. :cool:

mark scheurer 10-11-2012 07:28 AM

The rear upper control arms are worn -- mine were at 90k when I went for alignment and no one knew it then. The camber couldn't be brought into spec.

Then I started getting a squeak from the bad side around 104k and the culprit was the upper control arm. I had both replaced and the camber issue went away -- in fact the car had to be re-aligned because after the repair, too much camber adjustment had been dialed in with the worn arms and had to be taken back out to get the car back within specs.

I think the main symptom and usually the only symptom of worn-out rear upper control arms is camber that cannot be brought to within spec.

All I did is replace these and the X5 is fine. My indy says the shocks never wear out.

Ricky Bobby 10-11-2012 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davintosh (Post 901446)
That's probably a good plan, to just test with one (but I'd suggest you buy all four so you can finish the job if it goes well.) I put the bushings in the freezer also, and I'm sure that helped. A floor jack will work to get it in, but when I did it, the corner weight of the vehicle wasn't enough to press it in; had to apply a little heat to the subframe, which allowed it to drop down onto the bushing slowly. I've seen others that have looped a chain between the top of the subframe and the lower frame of the floor jack so it's got something more than the weight of the vehicle to push against; if I were going to do it again, that's what I'd try.

As for rental fees, I was thinking $50 for a rental fee (provided it's returned in a reasonable amount of time.) I'd probably run the rental thing similarly to how I've seen others do it; you, the renter, would pay me up front the replacement cost of the tool ($300) which becomes the rental fee plus deposit. I would ship the tool to you (my cost) with tracking info/insurance, and when you're done with it you'd ship it back (your cost) with tracking info/insurance. When I confirm that all the pieces are there and nothing is broken/damaged I refund your deposit. Keep in mind, this is just preliminary, as I don't even have the tool yet, and I haven't taken a lot of time to work it all out in my head. But I'm not looking to profit hugely with this rental thing, just offset the cost of the tool a bit. And if it's a help to some of you guys as well, that's all the better. :cool:


Well I like that rental cost/info idea! If its set up through paypal its even easier too!

Let me know how the tool works when you get it in, if its really a breeze like you say, I'll pay the 50 plus my return shipping to make it an easy job! shoot me a pm and let me know!

epdarks 10-11-2012 04:25 PM

I took my X into an indy today. 02 4.6 w/ 140k miles.

To my surprise, every component in the rear suspension was solid besides the 2 front sub-frame bushings which were "ok for now".

We did find out that I am having the dreaded drive-line issues (spline stripping)... was quoted about $2300 for 2 new drive shafts, guibos, with install.

Ricky Bobby 10-12-2012 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epdarks (Post 901563)
I took my X into an indy today. 02 4.6 w/ 140k miles.

To my surprise, every component in the rear suspension was solid besides the 2 front sub-frame bushings which were "ok for now".

We did find out that I am having the dreaded drive-line issues (spline stripping)... was quoted about $2300 for 2 new drive shafts, guibos, with install.

Good to hear your suspension is pretty nice! I have low miles on mine (65k) but I get worried with the age of these rubber components, the materials break down over time as well as mileage.


Sucks about the driveshafts, but with all the power you are pushing down at your miles I would expect some issues there!


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