Rough Idle / Stall 1st try this fix for 3.0i engine
 

Guys -

Just finished an oil change on the X5, and was listening to a football game thru the rolled down car windows while doing so. Upon trying to start the car again, realized that I spent a bit too much time changing over the oil (okay, it was a nice day too !), and the car wouldn't crank over. No problem, I threw the car on a battery charger and let it charge away for a couple of hours.

Upon then starting the car and backing down the driveway, the car dies. Started again, was very rough and sputtering - and dies again. Oh great, I'm thinking - what in the heck did I forget/screw up on a simple oil change?

Went to the boards and started searching for cold start issues, etc. Realizing that there was a pretty strong smell of gas to go along with the sputtering symptoms - I narrowed it down to the un-metered air coming into the engine. So the check for this is the DISA unit/ MAF / T-boot - for a simple start. I decided to check the DISA first.

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After I pulled it out, I checked that the flap had tension - which it did. It would spring back to open position when pressing it closed, which is the correct action. One thing I did notice when taking out the unit - it slid straight out with no tension at all. Upon examining the gasket material, it was completely flush and flattened down. Based on what others posted, I think changing the gasket out would be a good idea. I removed the remaining gasket material

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and then sourced a 55mm x 62mm x 3.5mm O-ring for $1.09. I popped that gasket in, and then started the engine back up - and smooth as silk !!

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I also noticed that the "clicking" sound the engine made was gone (alas, another symptom I could have picked up on pointing me the the DISA), and now the engine runs a rock solid idle at 800 RPM.

I know there are plenty of others things this could have been - like the MAF, CSV, Idle control valve, etc. but this might be a good place to start - and the best $1.09 you could spend to solve this issue.

Great post and something most 3.0 owners don't look into, I actually have been neglecting to do this for too long.

I will be getting a replacement O-ring, the stock one is way too flush and I'm sure it is affecting idle and drivability.

Dude I was almost charged $700 fooking dollars because of "vacuum leak" on the Disa valve and thanks to my hommie TTGTR who told me to replace this shit my X been running smooth.

OP: You did clean that Disa with some maf sensor cleaner before installing it back? That shit looks sooted like a mofo.

Yo homie - u been "brutal / rape-ized" by someone if they charged you 7 bills to look at ur DISA -- u could have replaced it x 3 with new units for that amount. I'd roll back up on that beotch and cap him out.....

ltr

I just bought a silicone disa O-ring for 5 bucks from German Auto Solutions, looking forward to replacing it.

He also sells full kits for repairing it for 75, much better than 215 on a new DISA

Key word in my post: ALMOST... I actually have two Disa valves, one installed and one sitting in a drawer in my house.

Tru dat....

I think you'll notice a marked difference in your engine performance/response.


I'm looking forward at seeing how my wife's Consumption measurements improve - since she have been showing anything from 16.1 to 18.1 with alot of highway driving. I'm hoping that those inch upward.....