that is awesome, even if i dont intend ever to strip one down, the knowing how means i cant be conned by trans specialists
thanks for an awesome post |
Okay, so making a start with pulling apart the various sub-assemblies.....
First the A & E clutch assembly, which includes the front simple epicyclic http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i.../AEremoved.jpg This assembly comes apart by simply releasing the snap ring which holds the B-clutch hub to the A-clutch drum http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...hubremoval.jpg The various components which make up the assembly can be seen below. On the right is the E-clutch hub which drives the carrier of the rear Ravigneaux epicyclic – ZF call this the intermediate shaft. The drum with the holes in it is the A-clutch hub which, through the hollow shaft, drives the rear sun gear of the Ravigneaux unit. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...AEstripped.jpg So here is the A-clutch assembly with the front simple epicyclic attached http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...Aclutchepi.jpg The clutch pack slides out after removing the snap ring and this plastic component is an oil catcher that channels fluid down the centre of the planet pins to lubricate the planet gear bearings http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...oilcatcher.jpg It took me a little while to fathom out how to detach the epicyclic carrier and sun gear from the A-clutch. Although you probably can’t make it out in the photo there’s a clip which holds the carrier in place and it is removed by levering it out of its groove using a small screwdriver through the gaps down the side of two of the planet gears http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ainingclip.jpg The clip can be seen more clearly below which shows the epicyclic once removed http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...6/Frontepi.jpg and this is how the A-clutch assembly now looks http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lutchnoepi.jpg The clutch piston return spring then has to be compressed in order to remove the retaining circlip and I was pleasantly surprised to find that one of the tools I’d had made up for stripping down the 5HP24 clutches fitted this one fine http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lipremoval.jpg So the oil dam plate can be removed together with the circlip http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lateoildam.jpg revealing the clutch piston return spring http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...utchspring.jpg To remove the piston it’s easiest to place the A-clutch drum back on to the oil pump assembly and then apply air pressure into the feed hole http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...tonremoval.jpg The piston then pops out and these are all the components that make up the A-clutch and front epicyclic assembly http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...idualparts.jpg Moving now onto the E-clutch assembly. The E-clutch assembly is part of the ‘input shaft’ of the transmission which is driven directly by the torque converter turbine http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...clutchassy.jpg The photo shows that the annulus gear of the front simple epicyclic is EB welded to the E-clutch drum and so is permanently driven by the transmission input shaft http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ssyannulus.jpg Once the clutch pack had been lifted out of the drum, I was again pleasantly surprised to find that one of my 5HP24 clutch spring compression tools fitted the E-clutch spring retainer perfectly, allowing me to remove the circlip without difficulty http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lipremoval.jpg and then the spring and piston could be removed http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...lutchparts.jpg Phil |
:popcorn:
...can't wait to see who is the guilty guy... |
Me too. Dying with anticipation. Amazing pictures. Just amazing.
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Amazing photo and instructions, i must say I learned a lot, can't wait for the entire post.
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I don't think i have ever seen anyone explain in such detail. Awesome, subscribed.
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[emoji1303], thanks for the tutorial.
Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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