Another pads and rotors thread
 

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Ive read the previous posts (about 50 of them) and I am going back and forth on replacing my rotors with my brake job.

Ive got 35,800 on my 2006 X5 4.4i. I drive hard, but nothing crazy. I just got the "check brake linings" message and looked at the front pads and they are low. Rotors look ok, with next to no lip. I haven't measured the thickness and compared to whats stamped on the rotors. I assume, because of the mileage, this is the first replacement of the pads.

My plan, for now, is to replace the pads only, with OEM (actual BMW parts) and try and get another 25-30k miles. Like to get to around 60k miles before doing rotors.

My question is: has anyone ever done this (pads only) and had issues?

I havent had problem...A lot of people will have their own opinion to which if you are changing the pads...might as well do rotors, and as what type of rotors...(drilled or slotted or Both)...its everybodies opinion....but since you only have 35k on your X........and if there is no lip on your rotors..you can go ahead and just change the Pads Alone AND make sure you get the Pad Sensors too while your there...

in my opinion...i might as well change rotors too to drilled slotted...IMHO.......

I do pads only all the time (often called "pad slapping") as long as the rotors are in good shape. I've never had an issue.

You ideally should get to sets of pads to one set of rotors.

:iagree: I can't remember the last time I did Rotors all though
I suspect that I may need to this time around.

You mean two sets of pads to one set of rotors? Thats kinda what I am trying to do.

Its settled. I'm doing pads only. thanks for the help

You can get away with it. If they are noisy afterwards, even after bedding them in, you may have to go back in and change them. I have done brake jobs where that happened, not with my own recent BMWs though. I generally replace rotors on my BMWs because I don't like doing jobs twice. I fully understand that I am throwing away some useful rotor life, but it just isn't a place I want to save money personally. And I will only use OE rotors, having tried others.

Dang Joe, sorry. That's correct, "2" sets of pads.

Why not just measure them instead of guessing. Rotor's will have a minimum thickness stamped onto them somewhere. Measure them and make a decision from there. Rotor life can vary based on pad compound.

If its a dollar issue, Max at OEMBimmerparts has an axle "kit" for $159.
Akebono ceramic pads, Meyle rotors, and the appropriate sensor. Front axle or rear axle.

I guessed wrong, and replaced the rears. Light actually was for the front sensor. Parts will be here Wed or Thurs. . .

Yes, and remember that you don't want to use the minimum thickness. Obviously, they are useless at that point.

Go to Bmaparts.com and get the OpParts brand rotors and ceramic pads. I did the front rotors, pads and the sensor for $98. 15k miles later still going strong and vibration free. Not to mention the ceramic pads are extremely low dust. And of course, always excellent customer service with bmaparts and super quick shipping. Not affiliated with them but a very happy repeat customer.

2002 Sterling Gray Metallic M5

The minimum thickness is there to let you know when the end of life of the rotor has been reached. Provided there isn't excessive rust, scoring/cracking and the rotor is true with sufficient meat on it; running them to the minimum is fine. Once a rotor gets to this point however, it MUST be replaced.

which one is Better......Drilled Rotors?...or Cross Drilled and Slotted?>>.
as far as preventing warpness cracks...etc.....everyone has there own opinion ..but let me hear it guys...

supposedly if the cross drills are done right they are structurally sound, most people have problems with rotors cracking from bad work on the cross drills.


I highly recommend www.adamsrotors.com for quality work that is done custom as you want it, and honestly i don't think their prices are too bad. I had their brakes when I upgraded my old VW, and the quality and look was great.


People are going to tell you that cross drilling technically decreases surface area of the rotor and can in theory keep stopping distance the same or increased. I've always been under the assumption that slotted rotors will be a bit noisier than blank ones, and cross drilled is mainly for looks.


My true opinion? Unless you are doing a true BBK, if you are just replacing with OEM sizes, get OEM rotors, blank, with some sort of protective coating on the hub and outer surfaces to prevent rust, get good ceramic or higher performance brake pads, and do a flush with quality performance fluid and you'll have all the "performance" you could want.

^+1

All this rotor-talk is complete rubbish. I've got OEM blanks, carbotech AX6, SS Lines, and ATE Blue. The combination is actually too powerful for the factory tires. As soon as I get some heat into those pads and I do a slightly harder than medium stop, the ABS goes insane. The braking force actually overwhelms the grip of the tires. Next time around, I'm stepping back down to carbotech 1521 and better tires.

The only way to genuinely get better braking performance is to get better tires and better pads. If you want even more braking power, you have no choice but to get a big brake kit as the big brake is about the only thing that will actually help your ABS kick in much later and work better when it does, in fact, kick in. Rotors ain't gunna do anything (unless they're some cheaply made $15 rotors; in which case they'll be worse).

This.

I recommend the same. The OpParts brand has black hats.

2002 Sterling Gray Metallic M5
2006 Schwarz Black Metallic X5 3.0