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bajohntrini 12-09-2012 04:54 PM

Yellow Sludge around Oil Cap
 
Hey guys, just wanted to start out by saying I absolutely love this forum, it has been so useful to me with all the problems I've had with my X5 since I've owned it for the last 2 years. I love it and it's been a good car for me, especially for all the mileage I put on it.

I have a 2004 X5 3.0 (245 000 KM on the OD) and just this week I've notice a yellow sludge around the oil cap when I went to do my routine check and top off of oil (I don't lose much oil at all, just seems to burn up half a quart every few thousand kms so I'm pretty sure I don't have a leak). I've never seen this before, and wasn't there when I changed my oil about 3000 km ago.

I've been reading around and it sounds like it could be a variety of problems, so I just wanted a little input.

I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, and it has been pretty cold for the last month or so. Apart from a little "choking" when I first start her up in the mornings (it's about -20 C all night) she runs awesome. I've been in the habit of checking the coolant levels lately too because last month I had to replace the alternator and in the process and accidentally pulled out the clip that holds the heat exchanger onto the radiator and lost all coolant. I fixed this and filled the coolant back up and did my best to bleed, but I find every few weeks I need to add a little bit of coolant to her because the red stick falls below the level of the top of the cap. I've just assumed this was because I didn't completely bleed the system and whatever air pockets come to the top once in a while.

Now that I have this yellow sludge on the oil cap tho, it has me worried because I've read about the coolant mixing in with the oil? Could this be the case? How would I find out for sure?

I've also read that the CCV can need cleaning/replacing, would these symptoms have anything to do with that? My X runs perfectly all of the time, not rough or anything, especially when she warms up.

I'm hoping this problem is just due to condensation in the engine (I take many short trips and it's been very cold here for the last month) and tomorrow I plan on taking her for a run for an hour or so and then changing the oil when it's hot and cleaning that sludge up. Is this likely to fix my problem?

The only other issue I've noticed is after driving for a while, when I come to a stop at a red light or whatever, I smell a faint burning, can't tell what it is, could it just be this condensation burning or what else could it be?

Your help is very much appreciated, I've searched around and I'd just like a few opinions of what you guys with experience think it is.

Thanks very much in advance.

SlickGT1 12-09-2012 07:25 PM

Yup, the short trips, and possibly the CCV. Clean or replace as necessary. Get that tank going at full temp. Then run that sucker in low gear and high RPM for a bit. Stay as high of an rpm as you feel comfortable. Burn that cheese out of the engine.

bajohntrini 12-09-2012 09:01 PM

Cool, thanks slick. Kind of gives me some peace of mind. I was scared of doing the CCV because I saw a youtube video doing it on a 3 series, but I guess on these X's it's a lot easier. I guess I might as well just replace it.

I plan on doing what you suggest before the oil change. Do you recommend any over the counter Engine Flush things? Those ones you add to the oil and run for 5-10 mins before draining the oil? I used to use them on my Fords and Toyotas but have never used it on the X since the parts guys at the dealership just said to change the oil and filter and do nothing else. Figure something extra might help with the sludge tho?

SlickGT1 12-09-2012 09:05 PM

Don't put that stuff in your BMW. Search here, CCV is a pain on the x as well. Some have managed to vacuum it with a thin hose kit. Search for that here as well. Just run the car hot and burn that crap out. Hot oil change is very effective as well.

SlickGT1 12-09-2012 09:17 PM

Oh the issue with CCV, is if that sludge freezes in your CCV, it can crack it, and make you spill your oil like the exxon spill.

jgold47 12-09-2012 09:24 PM

it begs the question of what oil you are using as well.

JCL 12-09-2012 10:27 PM

If you are doing a lot of short trips, at Edmonton temperatures, and never getting it warmed up, that is by far the most likely root cause.

Get it good and hot and keep it there on a long run. It isnt getting it hot that helps, it is sustained operation while hot. Then change the oil and filter. No additives. Repeat as necessary.

The CCV problems are a result of the condensate paste, not the cause of it. Consider cleaning it out after you get the engine clean, as getting the engine hot wont do anything for the CCV;it is mounted remotely, which is why it can freeze up.

jgold47 12-09-2012 11:13 PM

Wouldn't it stand to reason that cdm cars would have the cold weather ccv stock? Mine does and it was an IL delivery.

bajohntrini 12-10-2012 12:09 AM

I've been using the BMW oil right from the dealership religiously since I got her, I believe the regular synthetic 5w30 stuff they sell for everything, doing oil changes at about 7000km intervals. Do you guys recommend a different oil? I know 99% of the V-Rod guys recommend Amsoil for their Harley's, so that's what I've always put in my bike. I've searched this and there's a ton of mixed information. With such high mileage, should I just stick to what I've been using, that being the BMW oil?

jgold47 12-10-2012 12:21 AM

You can't go wrong with BMW oil, but... IMO I am only using castrol edge. 0/30 right now and 5/40 in the summer. Both are ll-01 approved which is all that matters. I will not use m1 0/40 period. I am running shell t6 in my e36.

JCL 12-10-2012 12:33 AM

I would stay with the BMW oil.

I don't consider the LL specs relevant. LL-01 is not a current spec, and LL-04 is not recommended by BMW for this application.

jgold47 12-10-2012 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL (Post 910729)
I would stay with the BMW oil.

I don't consider the LL specs relevant. LL-01 is not a current spec, and LL-04 is not recommended by BMW for this application.

I tend to agree with you especially with limited oci's. that said there is not much available that meets the rest of the spec acea 3/4 etc that's not already ll01. I think some of the vag/ll98 stuff does. Either way, I change oil 2x year, on probably a 3-5k mi oci, so it's somewhat a moot point for me.

My issue with m1 0/40 is the impression of noise and consumption in the m5x engine family.

JCL 12-10-2012 02:09 AM

That's a lot of extra oil changes.

My vehicles are running fine with much longer intervals.

jgold47 12-10-2012 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL (Post 910741)
That's a lot of extra oil changes.

My vehicles are running fine with much longer intervals.

Oh I could push it but a) I believe in matching vis to season and b) I don't put on a lot of miles...

zanderch 12-15-2012 04:35 PM

Hey guys, thanks a lot for the advice, just to give you an update, I did the really hot oil change, used the same BMW oil I have been using. For the last 5 days or so I haven't taken an trips that were too short for the temperature gauge to get to the middle and stay there for a while. I'm still getting a little of thy yellow sludge when I check it in the morning after it has been sitting overnight. I plan on using that trick I read about, shoving a clear tube down the hose and trying to suck the sludge out of the ccv. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to avoid having the replace the ccv, most shops around here are quoting close to $1000 for the labor.

racebmwm3 12-24-2012 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgold47 (Post 910726)
You can't go wrong with BMW oil, but... IMO I am only using castrol edge. 0/30 right now and 5/40 in the summer. Both are ll-01 approved which is all that matters. I will not use m1 0/40 period. I am running shell t6 in my e36.

Why are you against 0/40?

racebmwm3 12-24-2012 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zanderch (Post 911894)
Hey guys, thanks a lot for the advice, just to give you an update, I did the really hot oil change, used the same BMW oil I have been using. For the last 5 days or so I haven't taken an trips that were too short for the temperature gauge to get to the middle and stay there for a while. I'm still getting a little of thy yellow sludge when I check it in the morning after it has been sitting overnight. I plan on using that trick I read about, shoving a clear tube down the hose and trying to suck the sludge out of the ccv. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to avoid having the replace the ccv, most shops around here are quoting close to $1000 for the labor.

CCV isn't that hard to do, unless the orientation is vastly different than on an S52.

jgold47 12-26-2012 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racebmwm3 (Post 913367)
Why are you against 0/40?

Where do I start. Lots of reports of high consumption with 0/40 in m5x engines. I've also seen uoa's with strange numbers in this application. Sheers way down. I also personally think 0/40 is something of a chemical abomination, the additives needed to achieve a 40pt wt spread must be substantial. While I like the price and its ll-01 (which is a different conversation), I would rather not use it.


At the end of the day anything is fine assuming you do an appropriate OCI. I only drove about 6k miles this year But did 2x oil changes. Overkill? Probably but I'm anal about viscosity

bajohntrini 12-31-2012 02:08 PM

Hey guys,

So turns out I'm pretty sure I'm screwed and I really need your guys' help and advice. Since taking those longer trips, I haven't been noticing much of that yellow sludge so I'm pretty sure it was just due to the cold trips. But now coolant keeps going down and my dipstick is way overflown and really runny when I check it, even when the car has sat overnight in -20.

I'm pretty sure from reading all over that my head gasket is blown. I think the overheating issues I had over the summer had something to do with that.

That burnt smell is also getting worse when stopped/idling after driving a while, and it's definitely noticeable at the front of the car when you get out.

It sucks tho because she seems to run perfectly fine, but I guess it must be a ticking time bomb now till the blows.

I called a local indy that used to be the foreman at the dealer here and he said those head gasket jobs start at around $3000 and can go up really quick cus they normally find things warped and whatever afterwards, and he's saying sometimes it's better to get a motor swap done and that's around $10000. I really don't have the money for this and want to know what you guys think I should do.

I'm a good DIY'r, but this head gasket seems over my head. Especially if something else is wrong once I get in there. Should I man up and try it? Should I drive it into the ground? I'm pretty stressed now as this is my only vehicle, any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.

Bmwtvboy 12-31-2012 02:23 PM

There is a great repair video at Bavauto.com for the CCV replacement. It is a time consuming repair. They also sell a complete upgrade insulated CCV kit. It fits perfectly. While your down there, check your Disa valve,it's easier to get to your T.B. and don't forget to purchase a new T.B. gasket. Good luck. As for oil - SAE and standards and guidelines.

JCL 12-31-2012 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bajohntrini (Post 914431)
Hey guys,

So turns out I'm pretty sure I'm screwed and I really need your guys' help and advice. Since taking those longer trips, I haven't been noticing much of that yellow sludge so I'm pretty sure it was just due to the cold trips. But now coolant keeps going down and my dipstick is way overflown and really runny when I check it, even when the car has sat overnight in -20.

I'm pretty sure from reading all over that my head gasket is blown. I think the overheating issues I had over the summer had something to do with that.

That burnt smell is also getting worse when stopped/idling after driving a while, and it's definitely noticeable at the front of the car when you get out.

It sucks tho because she seems to run perfectly fine, but I guess it must be a ticking time bomb now till the blows.

I called a local indy that used to be the foreman at the dealer here and he said those head gasket jobs start at around $3000 and can go up really quick cus they normally find things warped and whatever afterwards, and he's saying sometimes it's better to get a motor swap done and that's around $10000. I really don't have the money for this and want to know what you guys think I should do.

I'm a good DIY'r, but this head gasket seems over my head. Especially if something else is wrong once I get in there. Should I man up and try it? Should I drive it into the ground? I'm pretty stressed now as this is my only vehicle, any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.

If you are losing coolant, and your oil level is higher than it should be, then it is a good bet that coolant is finding its way into the sump. Yes, that can be expensive.

I would find a shop that you trust. It isn't a DIY job unless you are going to just replace everything. Have the shop take the head off and see what they find. Could be a gasket, could be a crack. If it has overheated, then yes, it can get expensive quickly. These engines don't like being overheated, and heads can warp, etc. But until you get it pulled apart, you won't know.

You can have them do some diagnosis first. They can pressurize the cooling system, and see if it holds pressure over time. But at this point, I think you are already past that.

Don't keep driving on a mixture of oil and coolant, it doesn't lubricate very well.

Good luck, and let us know once they get into it what they find.


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