On my E34 you could override the double lock feature by lifting the handle and inserting the key into the lock and turning the key. I believe this was only available on the passenger side of the car. Never had to use this feature.

that how we got in, but it took me a while to dig it up - i think i used bmwtips.com site, or something to that effect... like the quote from Mark Twain in Slick's signature - i amazed at human stupidity, why he separated the key from the remote?

:iagree:
Oh the memories of the earlier double lock feature of the e28/e30/e32/e34...the lift & hold step of the emergency unlock procedure would stop 90% of owners every time. :rolleyes:

And at least there was a door lock cylinder on the driver's and front passenger door...AND...the door lock cylinders were actually HEATED.

From my e32 pic archives... :)

thread thread thread....
 

cannot believe the back and forth here but anyway, thanks to Term an Q for A LOT of good info. to that I have a final point and a question-

final point- in taking into consideration of the failure of the CentLockSys' inability to allow unlocking with complete electrical failure it should be noted that in my experience it would have to be an absolutely complete failure with no electric at all ( a case where there is no battery, the batter cable is severed in an accident) {and in case of an accident there is, I believe and a emergency mechanism on the + cable that reacts and triggers the ability for the doors to unlock} That is, if there is any charge whatsoever you should still be able to unlock the doors even after they were initially locked and armed (alarm on) with the CLS prior to the failure. At least that was my experience. I locked the car, alarm on. Next morning completely dead battery. Battery was later deemed to be a lemon. However, I was able to manually open the doors. First, drivers from outside without lifting handle, just turning key. Then passenger doors from within with double pull. Then top tailgate using emergency pull. Again, my experience with a battery that was dead - dead and could not even be jumped even though it was brand new, purchased 48 earlier, and fully functional until it discharged.

Now on to the question to hopefully Q for the answer-

With said 9v charger for memory do you know if this will prevent the 4x4 and red airbag light from coming on during a battery swap? When swapping my battery both lights came on. I was able to rid the 4x4 light with the lock to lock method, but no luck on the airbag light. It is my understanding that the only way to rid the airbag light is with INPA coding tool.

Thanks for all of the info and for many previous posts with great detail and pics. You have helped me a lot and I am sure several others.

Your situation was interesting in that I've never seen that combination of warning lights appear from disconnecting the vehicle's battery. But with that said (due to your unusual outcome)...I would say that in 99% of situations, using a small 9 volt battery memory saver...or even hooking up a (low amp...like 2-3 amps) battery or trickle charger to the jump posts in the engine bay...normally prevents electrical issues/losses with the vehicle's many electrical modules when the battery is disconnected.

If anyone uses this method...MAKE SURE that you protect the battery cable ends so that they DO NOT touch ANY metal or each other. I would probably take rags or the emergency gloves I keep in my "trunk kit" to cover the cable ends to protect them from shorting anything. Since the car's modules are still powered using this method...allowing the battery cables to touch each other or metal can send a power surge that might blow fuses and modules...which you DON'T want to happen.

BTW...let me add one more thing in case someone doing work around the car that involves any SRS (supplemental restraint system) electrical connectors is reading this. YOU DO NOT WANT TO KEEP ANY ELECTRICAL POWER CONNECTED. Please make sure that the negative battery cable is disconnected if you are doing any work with airbags or seat belt or occupancy mat sensors BEFORE you ever disconnect their electrical connector. And DO NOT reconnect the battery cable until you're DONE and all electrical harnesses are reconnected.

Thanks!
 

Thanks for this and all of the other info.

And I think that I speak for everyone on the board that, unless there is some other earth shattering info on the topic - I think we've about covered all we can on this one.

Again, many thanks.

Oh, heres a new one. The batteries on both of my key fobs died about two months ago, so I have been using the key lock in the door, well as luck would have it, today at the mall, the key lock broke right after I locked it. :confused: yup, you guessed it, no way to get in the car.

I fell completely out of love with this car a while a go, so I LOVED breaking a vent window on the piece of crap. I cleaned up all the broken glass from the edges, taped over the edges and stuck my 6 year old daughter through to pull the drivers side door open.

Now I'll take into to the dealer and get a new key, but am praying it burns to the gorund on the way there... :dunno:

ouch!!! i thought these keys did not have batteries and recharged while being in the ignition... maybe i am confusing that with some other models...

Yep, our X5 keys have a rechargeable battery that is soldered to the IC board inside the key...and it does charge while in the ignition. :) The battery is used to transmit the RF signal (315 Mhz or 433 Mhz) to the antenna incorporated into the rear window to lock/unlock & arm/disarm the FZV & DWA systems.

Mikeo that sucks
 

for anyone that this may happen to you may want to opt for the coat hanger to (secret unlocking button) method instead. it may be easier/less costly.