2000 X5 won't start? Please help, I need to go to work!
 

So i have read this thread many times for help, but this is my first time posting.

My wife left the key in the ignition in the on position and killed the battery (and key?). I have recharged the battery with the key in the ignition in the first position for approximately 30 hours. All the lights and gauges now work, but when I turn the key, nothing happens. Maybe it is the immobiliser? Or EWS problem?

I bought the car used and only have one key. Any suggestions would be helpful, I need to get to work and don't want to have to have the car towed to the nearest stealer (100 miles away) to get it going again.

Thank you very much.

Why did you have it in the 1st position? It isn't nessesary. When you try and start the vehicle, what occurs? Is it cranking but not engaging or is absolutely nothing happening meaning the lights on the dash cut out?

Need more info.

Also did you try locking and unlocking the X with the remote? Have you checked the voltage of the battery? How did you recharge it?

Remove the key, open the door, get out, close the door, lock the door with the key or remote, reopen the door with the key or remote see if the engine will now start.

I think he made it to work. Its been a half hour.:rofl: That or he's in the garage cursing at it.

Stealer said that maybe the battery in the key was dead and to try charging the key in the first position while charger was attached to car.

When I turn the key to start, nothing happens, dash lights stay the same, no dimming at all. Headlights work with no dimming either when attempting to start.

Lock and unlock work fine.

I charged the car through the terminals under the hood.

I don't have a voltage gauge, so I have not checked that, sorry.

:iagree:

everything twin and allnighter said!!!

besides, charging for 30 hours might not be enough to crank the starter... if you have some friend close by with another BMW or MB, or a heavy duty truck, try to jump the car. a honda or toyota will not do - my sister in law once got battery drained (playing loud music in a parking lot with bunch of guys in Civics), and could not get jumped (i mean, the battery!!!), so she called me... i got there, saw little civic trying to jump an E36... connected the E34, a minute later it fired up...

in other words, you need a car with potent alternator to jump your X... then drive 100 miles, and charge it...

and could not get jumped (i mean, the battery!!!):rofl:

Did you mean the guys in the Civic was impotent or just their car? :rofl:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...regulator.html

Use this procedure to check the voltage through your OBC. And what I mean by recharge was did you use a trickle charger like a battery tender or did you use a booster box???

I have tried getting out, locking and unlocking, but no start. I tried to jump it with a 4runner, but it won't even crank all.

I charged it at 2 volts on my charger.

you should see my sis-in-law - a dead will get an erec... errr... i mean... hahaha... she is a fine specimen of the gender... lol... especially, considering, the story happened a few years back, when she was 17 (E36 was her b.day present)... If you think a bimmer is a chick magnet, you should have seen her popularity SOAR with the boys... yeah... like she needed a boost!!! so, she had a half a dozen of civics, and whatever else the boys are driving now, and they all tried to impress her with their car jumping abilities (probably in hopes to imply their "other" jumping abilities!!!)... all of them failed miserably... that whole picture was sooo funny - parking lot, kids in their rides, an E36 coupe, black, with dead battery, bunch of guys with jumper cables, 3 cute girls (they were with my sis-in-law), and none of the guys could get the car running... an old dude with a young wife (my wife was about 22 at the time) shows up in E34 and starts it up - just another reason for the boys to go to college and earn well for a bimmer.... hahaha...

but hey, we are waaay off topic here....

Elmo, what is your status at this moment? were you able to fire the X up? at the moment of start up, the starter drinks a lot of juice...
once you get the doors locked/unlocked as per post above, keep the key in your pocket, keep the door open, turn the interior lights off, keep everything off, no radio, no headlights, battery is on the charger...

if your charger allows you to crank up the Amps to charge quickly, do it for about 2 minutes and then try to fire up the engine...

if the charger does not allow to increase the amperage, then charge it on slow, for couple of hours and then try to fire up the car without touching the door (already opened), or otherwise waking the car up.

if your charger allows to start the engine off the charger, then try that...

if you have somebody nearby with a good size (alternator-wise) car, then connect the jumpers, let the donor car idle for about 5 minutes, then rev the RPMs on the donor car upto 2000 RPMs, keep it there at no less than 2000 for about 2 minutes and then try to start the engine while the donor car still cranks up the RPMs...

one of these methods should get you running...

and the battery - since it was discharged, you will need to get a replacement battery, rather sooner than later (unless you have the ability to recondition the battery)...

I concur with Term. Again, 4 Runner may not be able to produce enough juice especially if you have a 4.4. It has a 180amp alternator. A lot of juice is needed.

In any case what do you have a 3.0 or 4.4? And how many miles.

Check how many volts first and get back to us.

Right now, the scenarios might be a badly discharged battery, the starter is in a section where the contacts are not engaged, and the key is shot. Which I doubt because if the key was in the vehicle on posII, technically the key is already charged.

Always wanted to Quote Qsilver7. LOL

Some X requires new battery to be coded. Get a new battery installed and go from there.

Ok, if I followed the procedure correctly, I have 11.3 volts currently.

The x5 is a 4.4, 143000 miles.

I really appreciate the help here guys, this is driving me mad!!!

Not enough to start. 11.3 is too low. You may get lucky on 11.3 but anything under 11.9 usually means a no start.

that is why a donor car on high RPMs might be able to crank the X, as its own juice is not enough...

With the 4runner attached with jumper cables, I have 12.5 volts, but it still won't crank.

Any other suggestions? New battery? More charging? I don't have access to a bigger vehicle to jump with.

Do you even know how old the battery is? Could be the battery is way past its prime and the draining of the battery by the wife was the final straw that broke the camel back. After 30 hours on the charger that battery should be over 12 volts not unless you have one of those wimpy battery tender charger that can't charge a dead battery.

did you try to hold the RPMs with the 4runner and then start the X? did it work? or not?

I vote for New Battery.

The battery is a white BMW battery, so it could be the original (13 years old), but I have only had the car for a year and don't know the history at all. We have never had a battery problem, but that doesn't mean much. Should I try a new battery for it?

Well a new battery is definitely in order, but even if the battery was bad, with a jump, it should be able to still crank the x.

Take all the load you can off the X Meaning turn the headlight off, radio off, HVAC off, everything.

If that still doesnt do it. Your going to have to get under the X, locate the starter and tap it to move the brushes around. Doing so will place the contacts in a slightly different spot and i that is the problem, will start the X.

Holding the RPMs did not work either.

wow!!!

in best case scenario, you are at the end of 4th battery/beginning of 5th battery, and all of them were the OE...

in real life you are probably at the end of 2nd battery, that was replaced 5-6 years ago (is there a date tag?)

you need a new battery, as even if you get this one running, it will not hold the charge - it held up long enough and now went off a cliff...



of course, the OE battery is good, but it will run you $300... check the size (is it 92?) and get it from a regular store, with 3 year warranty, 5 years pro rated... no programming needed...

I will go get a new battery, hopefully that will fix things, if not what exactly do you mean by tap the starter?

I'll be gone for a bit to get the new battery, but I'll check back after, thanks a bunch guys, you are awesome! At least my boss is cool and is letting me come in late, if I make it at all, LOL.

if the RPMs did not help, then do what twin said - turn the starter...

Just as it says. The started is located under the X. Take the handle of a hammer and give it a hard tap. Then try. Try it atleast a few times. If it still doesnt start, then we need to check something else.

I am back from parts store and new battery is installed...still no start. I jacked up and climbed underneath to tap the starter and did the best I could, but there isn't much room. Still no start.

Any other suggestions?

could it be that the security code may have been set by accident? well, thinking about it aloud, if it were set, then you would have seen the code on the MID display or the Nav screen... there is a time-out procedure to start the car when the code is forgotten...

also, the battery has a separate (+) lead for the fuel related electronics, in case of accident, the fuel pump and the such are cut off - i wonder if that lead is dislodged somehow...

also, when the key is starting position, the fuel pump builds up the fuel pressure - the sound of the pump may be heard - are there any sounds coming from the car, and if there are any, can you describe them, when you try to start the car... check fuse 47, and the fuel pump relay is located behind the glove compartment K96

Also, what is the voltage reading of the new battery?

I have not been prompted by anything mentioning a security code.

I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump when I turn the key on and another sound that appears to be something priming.

Where is fuse 47 located?

New battery is at 12.6 volts.

glove compartment, if you get into the footwell, open the compartment and look at the "ceiling" of the compartment, you will see two thumb screws that you need to turn 90 degrees (if you have a flash light, remove the flash light, it will get inthe way of the lid opening.

once you pop the lid, you weill see two rows of fuses and a legend on the inner side of the lid. find fuse 47, verify against the legend, and see if it ok or not _if you hear the pump running, probably it is ok... also, the battery terminal is ok too... and the relay might be fine... but never hurts to check the simpler items, before moving into more complicated troubleshooting...

Fuse 47 is good.

ok... lets check starter relay - in the engine compartment, on the passenger side, closer to the hood hinge... here is the picture of it, relay K6324.

next one may call for more digging inthe glove compartment, actually, behind it, where more fuses are... that would be fuse 105... careful around that fuse, a LOT of juice passing there!!!

I appreciate your help terminator, but I am going to call it a day and try those things you suggested tomorrow. It is getting cold and I have had enough frustration for one day, lol. If you are around tomorrow, I would love more help!

cool..

actually in the morning, you might be able to just fire it up.... who knows... lol...

good night...

It sure would be nice if it would start up. By the way, this car has the auto start feature, if that makes any difference?

most of them do - it does not matter at this stage of troubleshooting... we are not deep enough into oil and grease... lol...:p:

I hate to throw cold water on the situation...but with everything you've tried and still get no start...and if I understand correctly...when you turn the ignition to the start position...you hear & get absolutely nothing (no clicking from the starter, or "urr, urr, urr" from the engine's attempt to turn over)...I think the issue may be with the EWS system.

I've seen this happen before on either an e38 or e39 forum...where the key was left in the ignition (just like your situation)...and the battery was drained. The issue turned out to be that EWS got out of sync. With the key being in the ignition and turned to position 1 where some control modules are initiated...then the battery draining and losing power...yet the key is still in the ignition where communication with the transponder could have been initiated as the car's battery voltage begin to drop...EWS could have gotten out of sync.

It takes BMW DIS to resync EWS...it is not like the FZV/DWA features of the key that can be reinitialized in your driveway.

BTW...the dealership gave you some incorrect info...the battery inside the key has no affect on it's ability to START the car. The battery is only required for FZV & DWA (remote locking/unlocking of the central locking system & arming/disarming of the anti-theft alarm siren system).

I have seen keys sporadically not send the pass key, your key could be bad. Try another key if you have it. I have also seen loss of EWS calibration.

Carsoft 6.5 can resync the key with the EWS.

fuse 105 feeds into the EWS system. and the EWS feeds into the starter...

i am running out of ideas here, so, some fresh blood is needed.. lol...

Unfortunately, we were told by the OP that they only have one key...sadly this is one of the unfortunate consequences when owners take the risk of living with only one key.

Not to be kicking the OP in their hour of distress...I hope other owners that are living with only one key will be spurred to at least purchase the spare key (it cost much less than another remote key) so if an emergency arises...they will have a back-up.

In this case...another working key could easily verify if the issue is with the the remote key.

You can run a wire to the solenoid on the starter and use the jump terminal in the engine compartment to energize the solenoid which in turn will spin the starter, so if you have the key in the run position you should be able to start it. I think the EWS only prevents the starter from spinning.

Edit: Make sure the trans is in Park and the parking brake engaged. The above method will starts the car in any gears. Speaking of gears, does the gear indicator still show what the gear the trans is in?

I presume it's an automatic so, please don't shout at me for stating the bleedin' obvious but..........is the gearstick in park or neutral when trying to start her up?

All 4.4 in the line up were Auto trans. And for assumption sake, he should be in park. But I am with Term, I am out of ideas. The others with knowledge of EWS need to chime in like Upallnight and Quick... I'm a bang it out fix it type of person. But the furthest I will get into electrical is a pilot test light to test for continuity. Anything out of that... well... then I am boned and hook the thing up to GT-1 and pray for the best.

I had that problem. Go and buy a brand new battery. Should do the trick especially with your early year model.

He bought a new battery last night, still no start. C'mon Alex, where were you! haha. You doing any more wrenching today? Your list from yesterday looks like the X is keeping you busy!

I am up and going to try again to get this thing started. I was going to remove the skid plate to have better access to the starter and possibly power up the solenoid, but the nuts on top of the bolts just spin when I try to undo them. Why are these not welded on? Looks like just another obstacle to make it more difficult on the repairman. Any suggestions to make this easier? Or is it just a painfully long process that should be a piece of cake?

Also the car did not start this morning when I tried, I am beginning to think it is also an EWS issue, but what are the ways around this without taking it to the stealer?

The stiffener plate is a pain, but you are just going to try and grab hold of the top and hold the nut.

The only other way around a dealer is for an indy with the right equipment.

You need to get a piece of software that will resync the key chip with the EWS. Maybe an indy in nyour area have the software to do this.

As for the skidplate, you need to get a wrench or socket to hold onto the nut so you can remove the bolt. Have something holding up the plate because it is HEAVY.

Electronic Vehicle Immobilisation System EWS 3.3

The EWS 3.3 serves as an antitheft alarm system and enables the start of BMW vehicles.
A transponder chip is integrated in each of the vehicle keys. A ring coil is fitted about the ignition lock. The transponder chip is powered by the EWS3 control unit via this coil, i.e. no battery is required in the key. The power supply and data transfer take place in the same way as a transformer between the loop antenna (coil) at the ignition lock and the transponder chip.
The key then sends data to the EWS3 control unit. If these data are correct, the EWS 3 control unit enables the starter by means of a relay located in the control unit and additionally sends a coded start enable signal via a data link to the DME/DDE. These procedures may result in a start delay of up to half a second.
Components

Data link to DME/DDE

The EWS3 control unit sends a coded enable signal to the DME/DDE via the data link. The engine cannot be started before this signal has been transferred.
Engine control unit (DME/DDE) with coded start enable input

The engine control unit (DME/DDE) only enables engine start if a correct enable signal is received from the EWS control unit.
EWS-DME/DDE interface

Identical variable codes are stored in the EWS 3.3 control unit and in the DME/DDE control unit. The value of these codes changes after every start procedure. Start enable only takes place if the code sent by the EWS control unit agrees with the code calculated in the DME/DDE control unit.
The control units are allocated only during initial programming of the DME/DDE control unit. The engine control unit then adopts the basic code of the EWS control unit.
Important
It is not possible to replace the DME/DDE or EW 3.3 control units for test purposes!
In rare cases, it is possible that the variable codes in both control units deviate from each other. In these cases, it is possible to reset both codes to the initial value via the service function DME(DDE) EWS III matching.
Key identification and start procedure


The following procedure takes place after inserting the vehicle key in the ignition lock:

• The transponder in the key is powered via the loop antenna and sends the key data to the EWS3 control unit.
• The EWS3 control unit checks the key data to ensure it is correct and only then sends an enable signal to the starter.
• The EWS3 control unit sends the variable code to DME/DDE. There, the variable code is checked against the saved variable code; if they match, the fuel injection is released.
• After the engine has started, the EWS3 control unit generates new key data (change code) and transfers them to the transponder in the key.
• A new variable code is also created and stored in the DME/DDE control unit.

Fault recognition in engine control unit


The following faults are monitored in the engine control unit:

• Interface, i.e. line to EWS control unit: In this case, the check is carried out in order to establish whether a signal is received and whether this signal is not subject to excessive interference.
• Variable code: A check is conducted as to whether the variable code which is sent by the EWS control unit agrees with the value calculated in the DME(DDE) control unit.

Engine start is inhibited if a fault is detected.

engine start is inhibited if a fault is detected...

Also, it seems that the engaging the relay for the starter might not allow the engine start, as the EWS sends an additional signal to the DME...

and, there is no battery in the key (but what in the hell is being charged by the coil??!!)

i am still looking for the re-sync info...

Electronic Vehicle Immobilisation System EWS 3.3

The EWS 3.3 serves as an antitheft alarm system and enables the start of BMW vehicles.
A transponder chip is integrated in each of the vehicle keys. A ring coil is fitted about the ignition lock. The transponder chip is powered by the EWS3 control unit via this coil, i.e. no battery is required in the key. The power supply and data transfer take place in the same way as a transformer between the ring antenna (coil) at the ignition lock and the transponder chip integrated in the key.
The key then sends data to the EWS3 control unit. If this data is correct, the EWS3 enables the starter by way of a relay installed in the control unit and additionally sends a coded start enable signal via a data link to the DME/DDE.
Components

Key with integrated transponder chip

A chip which can both transmit as well as receive (transponder) is integrated in the key. This transponder chip obtains its power from the field built up by the ring coil and uses it to communicate with the EWS3 control unit. This means that no battery is necessary in the key for power supply. Every key or the transponder integrated in it is a unique part. The control unit can also differentiate between the individual keys. The key transmits and receives data from/to the EWS control unit.
If errors occur during communication between the EWS3 control unit and the individual keys, these errors are stored in the fault code memory - separate for each individual key.
Ring coil

The ring coil is fitted on the ignition lock and serves as an antenna for communication between the transponder chip (in the key) and control unit.
EWS 3.3 control unit

The EWS 3.3 control unit communicates with the key fitted in the ignition lock. If the communication procedure is correct and the key has sent all data necessary for identification and start enable to the control unit, the control unit detects whether the key is valid and has been released for use. If this is the case, it releases the starter relay located in the control unit and sends a coded enable signal via the data link to the DME/DDE.
The control unit can manage a maximum of 10 keys allocated to the control unit, i.e. a maximum of 6 replacement keys are possible.
The control unit can identify the individual keys thus making it possible to disable/enable individual keys and to store fault codes for each individual key separately in the fault code memory.
Data link to DME/DDE

The EWS3 control unit sends a coded enable signal to the DME/DDE via the data link. The engine cannot be started before this signal has been transferred.
Engine control unit (DME/DDE) with coded start enable input

The engine control unit (DME/DDE) only enables ignition and fuel supply if a correct enable signal is received from the EWS control unit.
EWS-DME/DDE interface

Identical variable codes are stored in the EWS 3.3 control unit and in the DME/DDE control unit. The value of these codes changes after every start procedure. Engine start is only enabled when the code sent by the EWS control unit agrees with the code in the DME/DDE control unit.
The control units are allocated only during initial programming of the DME/DDE control unit. The engine control unit then adopts the basic code of the EWS control unit.
Important
It is not possible to replace the DME/DDE or EW 3.3 control units for test purposes!
In the case of certain faults, it is possible that the variable codes in both control units deviate from each other. In these cases it is possible to match the variable codes by means of the service function ”EWS - DME/DDE matching”.
Influencing variables

P/N input for automatic transmission

Whether the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission is defined in the coding.
On automatic vehicles, a start procedure is enabled by the EWS3 only if the selector lever is in position P or N.

The EWS3 control unit receives the information with regard to the selector lever position twice:

• Via a data link
• Via the K-bus

If the information ”selector lever in position P or N” is sent only via the K-bus but, due to a fault, not via the data link, noticeable start delays within the range of 1 - 2 s can occur.
”Central locking secured” signal

The EWS3 control unit receives this information via the K-bus.
If the EWS3 control unit receives the ”central locking secured” signal from the general module, in ignition lock position 1 (terminal R), the EWS sends back a signal via the K-bus which unlocks the central locking.
Afterrunning time

Important
For safety reasons, the EWS3 control unit features a code-dependent afterrunning time (approx. 10 seconds). It begins when the ignition lock is switched to 0 position. Within this afterrunning time start with any mechanically fitting key is enabled.
Key identification and start procedure


The following procedure takes place after inserting the vehicle key in the ignition lock:

• The transponder in the key is powered via the loop antenna and sends the key data to the EWS3 control unit.
• The EWS3 control unit then checks the key data to ensure it is correct and only then sends an enable signal to the engine management system and starter.
• After the engine has started, the EWS3 control unit generates new key data (change code) and transfers them to the transponder in the key.
• A new variable code is also created and stored in the DME/DDE control unit.

Changing individual components

Key

Replacement keys can be obtained from a sales point only via a BMW dealer where one of the 6 replacement keys fitting the vehicle is programmed. This key is not a copy of the lost key, but rather a new key.
A total of not more than 6 replacement keys suitable for the installed EWS control unit can be made and handed over.
There is a noticeable start delay of 1 - 2 s when a new key is inserted in the ignition lock for the very first time. From then on, the start procedure should take place without delay.
Lost keys must be blocked by means of diagnosis. Refer to ”Special features of the diagnosis program”.
CAUTION!
Every request for a key is documented so that enquiries from insurance companies and authorities can be followed up.
Procedure for loss of all 10 keys

A new EWS control unit is required if all 10 keys are lost.
By providing all the necessary data, it is possible to obtain a new EWS control unit from a BMW dealer and the new transponder keys allocated to it with the previous mechanical key code.
EWS control unit


The following procedure should be adhered to when replacing the EWS 3.3 control unit:

• Before replacing the EWS3 control unit: Leave defective control unit installed in vehicle and in the coding program (Encoding ZCS) select point ”1 New coding - 1 Replace control unit - 1 Read out data from defective control unit”. Coding data and vehicle-specific data is read out of the EWS control unit with this part of the program and buffered in the MoDiC or DIS tester.
• Now install new EWS 3 control unit.
• After replacing the control unit: Encode new EWS 3 control unit with coding program selection point ”1 New coding - 1 Replace control unit - 2 Transfer data to new control unit and encode control unit”. The buffered data is now transferred and EWS - DME/DDE matching is carried out.

Note
The procedure described above must be adhered to as all the data necessary for vehicle identification is also stored in the EWS control unit. It will be necessary to do without the data readout from the old control unit only if the EWS 3 control unit no longer has diagnostic capabilities.

Proceed as follows in this case:

• Install new EWS control unit in the vehicle and encode with the encoding program and selection point ”1 New coding - 2 Re-encode control unit”.
• Then carry out matching with selection point ”EWS - DME/DDE matching”.
• In this procedure, the vehicle data necessary for automatic vehicle identification cannot be written to the EWS control unit.

Replacement of engine control unit (DME/DDE)

After replacing the engine control unit, ”EWS - DME/DDE matching” must be conducted with the coding program or in the diagnosis program.
Important
The ignition must then be switched off for at least 25 s.
Service functions

Disable/enable key

It is possible to disable or enable individual keys electronically via the diagnosis function (service functions).
Important
Electronically disabled means that both the starter as well as the engine control unit are not released (enabled) for the start procedure. It should be borne in mind that an electronically disabled key still fits mechanically, i.e. all flaps, lids and doors can still be opened.
Display of keys used to date in this vehicle

Here, the display shows for each one of the 10 keys which can be managed by the EWS3 control unit whether it has been recognised at least once by the EWS control unit, i.e. it is possible to trace, also on older vehicles, how many keys have already been used in this particular vehicle.

I guess I will hold off on removing the plate then, if I can't jump the solenoid anyway. I might have to wait till tomorrow (or Tuesday because of Presidents' Day) to see if an Indy can sync the EWS, unless someone else knows some way to bypass or re-sync it.

this article says that the EWS is taking part in the locking/unlocking process... i wonder if that process syncs/re-syncs the EWS...

I don't know, but I have successfully locked and unlocked the doors numerous times, but still no start?

Matching DME(DDE) - EWS III

In specific cases, it is possible that synchronization between the DME/DDE control unit and EWS control unit may deviate from each other. In these cases, the test module refers to the matching procedure which must then be carried out. In this way, the variable codes of both control units are reset to the common starting value.
This matching procedure must also be conducted when a new engine control unit is installed. In this case, the matching procedure adopts the basic code of the EWS control unit from the DME(DDE) control unit. This basic matching procedure is only possible once.
With this matching it is therefore not possible to adjust DME(DDE) control units - which were adapted in another vehicle with another EWS control unit - to a further EWS control unit.

and now, if only someone would give us this info in ENGLISH - what the hell does it mean???

I agree, anyone??

This is where many people get confused with the remote keys and the 3 features/systems that are involved. I written about this for years so I'll try to explain it. The biggest mistake is that there's only 1 feature activated...when actually there are 3 features/systems involved in the remote keys and they are all independent of each other but do work in conjunction with each other:

1. EWS - immobilizing system: shuts down starter/fuel injection/ignition
2. DWA - arming/disarming of the anti-theft alarm siren system
3. FZV - remote locking/unlocking activation of central locking system

EWS/DWA/FZV all get or send some type of data/info to or from the GM...this is one control module that they all communicate with...thus it is also one of the things that makes people think that the key only does one thing. EWS & FZV (central locking) communicate by way of the GM & K-bus in that it tells EWS when the engine is NOT running...thus the doors can be UNLOCKED. But that's all...the procedure to reinitialize DWA & FZV remote operation...it has NOTHING to do with the EWS communication that immobilizes the car. Again, these a 3 independent systems that only work in conjunction with each other.

TX5 asked about how does the key start the car when the key's batter is dead...I think you found your answer in the EWS info you posted. The EWS transponder gets powered thru induction...it is powered by the Ring Antenna around the ignition switch...unlike the FZV & DWA transitted RF signal which requires the use of the battery inside the key. That's why we always tell people that a dead key battery has no affect on the key to be able to start the car. The internal key battery is not needed.

Resyncing EWS...I mentioned this in my previous reply. When the key was left in ignition position 1...EWS communication is occuring. And when the car was left in this condition and the battery died...this is where the "deviation" may have occurred in the rolling code tables.

The only way to resync EWS is with proprietary hardware/software...there has to be some communication with the communication BUS. Other that BMW DIS/GT-1...I think Ive read in the past that INPA can resync EWS.

oh, sorry. In that case I would hook it up to DIS and check the codes.

And yea, its leaking a bit of oil and antifreeze. even after paying for all the work to be done. the problems dont stop..

It's mean that if you have a "Virgin" DME it can be sync automatically with the EWS in the car, but if the DME has been sync with another car EWS unit , it can not be automatically sync with the EWS.

ok...

how do we get this thing started, without morgaging the house, the kids, the wife... wait... mortgaging the wife?... hmmm... on the other hand.... hahaha... just kidding...


so, will INPA, or PASOFT re-sync those? in other words, can it be done in "home" environment?

I run Carsoft 6.5 (from my days as an E34IT owner) and it has an option for EWS sync. Never had to sync the EWS, but I was able to do other thing with it such as read ABS module to tell me which wheel sensor was bad (Front left), reset some BMW members and my SRS lights.

So it looks like PA Soft & INPA can do it if you have either of those.

I don't have either, but hopefully one of my local Indy shops will. Hopefully they are open tomorrow and I will update everyone on what they find.

I have bad news...remember when I wrote that I had seen this issue before...well I found the old thread...and when you read thru it you'll see that there were several other BMW owners that did the same thing...and their keys NEVER worked again.

The only solution was the purchase of a new key....here's a direct link (its an e38 forum, but it has the same set-up as the e53):http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...n+battery+died

Found the following info

13. #Recovering key synchronization
Attempt to start BMW vehicle haVINg the battery discharged often lead to key synchronization loss, and
as a result, starter does not react when you are trying to start the engine even with fully recharged battery. Vehicle
diagnosis via GT-1 or Modic-DIS can indicate the variable key code mismatch. Recover key synchronization and
EWS3 unit using dealer’s diagnosis hardware GT-1 or Modic-DIS is impossible! The only solution will be to
order new key from dealer using vehicle’s VIN number.

EWS Editor allows you to recover key and EWS3 unit synchronization.
Recovering key and EWS3 unit synchronization procedure:
• Read EWS3 data using function [ Read EWS ]
• Save the dump of read EWS3 unit into a file using the [ Save BIN ] function
• Read the key data using the function [ Read KEY ] and remember it’s number 4)
• Uncheck the “Used” field for this key
• When you will be asked [ Mark key (X) as unused? ] answer YES – to proceed, or NO – to cancel the
operation.
• Store data in EWS3 using [ Save EWS ] function
4) – Factory anti-theft unit EWS3 works with ten keys, purchasing the vehicle owner gets four keys – №0, №1,
№2 и №3, other keys may be ordered from official dealer by VIN number.
(X) – number of the key.

at this website

http://www.aetools.us/Docs%20and%20p...Editor_eng.pdf

Perhaps you can contact this website and ask if they have a list of Indy that brought their product to repair BMW. I don't think you want to spend $2000 to fix the X for a key issue.


Looks like Qsilver7 is right, don't waste your time and money at the Indy, order new keys thru the stealers.

Thanks, Qsilver, I am really regretting not having a second key now! Hopefully everyone will make sure they have a spare key that works, because this really sucks. Now I am going to have to have the car towed to a shop to have it fixed and who knows what this is going to end up costing me. I will keep you all informed on what happens from here.

wow - a key can be killed just be leaving it in the ignition... Learned something new today....

Years ago, I had to get a new key for the E39, the dealer wanted $160 for it... I had AAA+, and tried to get their locksmith to get replacement keys... since their locksmith could not get the BMW keys, the AAA+ cut me a $100 check for the problem, which i "applied" towards the purchase price.

I am not sure if the AAA still does it, or maybe the insurance companies have it under the "lock out" clause, but it might be worth checking into it...

sorry elmo, we could not get your car started... at least, you got a new battery out of all of this...

Yes, a $260 battery that is useless because the key is shot. I just hope it doesn't cost too much from here on out.

Thanks for all the attempts to help me, I will let you all know how this ends up and how much it costs me.

Key prices are set by the local dealerships...but you have the choice of a spare key and the remote key...might as well drop the dime for both so that you won't be caught in this same frustrating situation.

Hopefully your local dealership doesn't charge on the "high" side for the remote key...perhaps if you downlload the coast of the keys from some of the other BMW dealerships that have an online presences...they will price match.

For instance, wwwbmwpartscenter.com (Tomkinson BMW) and BMW Parts and Accessories at GetBMWparts.com (BMW Silver Spring) both have online web stores where you can input the 11 digit BMW part nbr...print out their prices and take it with you to your local BMW dealership. Present them with the BMW part nbr for the keys (along with you proof of ownership ect that is required) and first see if they are on the higher side...if so, show the print outs and see if they will price match. :)

I was going to look up the diagram and part nbr for you...but you still don't have a signature with your model/model year/build date...so just go to realoem.com and input the last 7 digits of your VIN...then work your way to BODYWORK (main group) MASTER KEY LOCKING/KEY (sub group) and you'll see the diagrams for the keys...scroll down and get the part nbrs for items #1, #3, and #5 (note there are specific part nbrs for specific build dates...key # 1 may not be available for all build dates). Key #2 is the valet key...it doesn't UNLOCK the glove box and may not be available for X5s built after 10/2003.

• #1 - illuminated key (no remote function & may not be available for X5s built after 10/2003..makes an excellent 2nd key/back up key...cost much less than a remote key)
• #3 - plastic spare key (also makes an excellent back up/emergency key...also costs much less than a remote key)
• #5 - 3 button remote key (make sure you get the correct part nbr based on your vehicle's build date)
• #14 - set of keys includes #2, #3, & #5 (for X5s built prior to 10/2003 build date)
• #16 - set of keys includes #3 & #5 (for X5s built from 10/2003-up)

My X5 came with only one key. My Indy got me another remote key from the dealer. Cost me $200. But it then had to be coded to the vehicle, (he used his Autologic). Then the keys, (both in the same process), must be initialized.

Also, I also had him sync each key to a memory seat/mirror setting.

The Autologic was probably used to program the key's seat/mirror settings (not assign any EWS ISNs)...and the initialization was only required for the FZV & DWA (remote central locking/unlocking & arming/disarming of the anti-theft alarm siren system...which only requires turning the ignition to position 1 then off, then pressing the remote buttons in a specific sequence...yada, yada, yada).

New keys from BMW don't require EWS initialization...because the transponder chips have aleady been assigned to your vehicle when it rolled off the assembly line. Ten original BMW keys are already set-up to be ordered for each vehicle due to the 10 spaces designed in the EWS control module (all of this has been covered in lots of detail in previous posts in this thread :) ).

Here's more...that explains how the EWS control module is assigned 10 keys as it rolls off the assembly line.

So Qsilver, are you saying that I just need to get new keys from the stealer and they will work? I will NOT have to have the car towed to them to get the keys synched to the car?

The nearest stealer would be a pretty large tow bill, but if I can avoid that, I really am not too concerned with how much the keys cost.

If the problem is that the key is a goner from being left in the ignition and the battery died (like what happened to the other BMW owners in the thread I posted)...check what about 3 or 4 other BMW owners did in that link to the e38 forum I posted. I can't remember if they still had to "synk" the new key or not.

If not, then all you need for a new key from BMW is to present the VIN and proof of ownership (license, registration, insurance will probably do)...and they will order you the key of your choosing and applicable to your X...and it will arrive already with the ability to start your car (as long as a previous owner didn't swap out the original DME/ECU & EWS control module).

The only thing you'll need to initialize is the remote operation of FZV & DWA (remote central lock/unlock & arm/disarm of the anti-theft alarm siren system) bBt you can do that yourself following the instructions below which have been posted many times before: :)

Back in 2008, when I purchased a 1999 e39 540iT...it only came with one key. The first thing I did was order a spare key. When it arrived, the parts dept gave me a call, I drove over and picked it up. I walked out of the parts dept and stuck the key into the ignition, and the car started right up...without anything being done to the car. I preceded to drive home, and that key stayed in my spare key drawer until I sold the Touring back in Nov/2012. It still worked...and again, it was never "initialized" to my car by the dealer...it went straight from the parts counter, to the ignition, to my spare key drawer. :)

Yea the keys come precut, and flashed to the vehicle. The only time you ever have to go in with a BMW scanner if for newer comfort access cars.

It looks like NONE of the people whose batteries died with the key in the ignition were able to use their keys ever again (mine included, apparently), they all had to get new keys.

I made it to the stealer today and ordered a new master key and a valet key (just in case this happens again). I should have them on Wednesday and I will let everyone know if it works or not.

I appreciate all the help everyone gave me, thanks a bunch. I guess the bottom line is that everyone should have a second key, if you don't have one, get one ordered TODAY!!!

So how much did the stealer take you for for two keys?

Master key $200, valet key $40, sales tax brought the total to about $260, not too bad. I was hoping they would match prices from other stealers that I printed off, but they wouldn't (probably because they knew I had no other choice).

Perhaps someone on this forum would like to go into the car key business.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AgNl3SgsEk

yeah... now i remember - it was that guy, who went to a picnic on another thread, who was trying to upsell this thing to us... lol...

Another guy with a similar problem on a different forum

Battery Issue after Software update?!? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Memo to self, don't leave the key in the ignition if the car is not running.

Someone say picnic???

There's an article in this months Roundel about how BMW has a temporary exemption from legislation requiring them to allow registered locksmiths to be able to make keys 24/7. Legislation to make this exemption permanent just failed in CA. So it looks like very soon, BMW may have to start allowing locksmiths to make keys. So owners don't get stranded for days when traveling.

Leave it to the "gubment" to take a desireable BMW designed security feature and render it useless. Once the "registered locksmiths" are able to make keys the next step is the criminals can do exactly the same.

How about owners putting the valet key is a magnetic case and securing the key underneath, Bell makes a watertight/rare earth magnetic case that I use for exactly that. On long trips with the fiancee I ensure she is carrying the 3rd key in her purse.

Owners need to focus on the "ounce of prevention" so the laws don't ram a "pound of cure" down our throat that will only allow criminals easy access to ALL our keys. You CANNOT mandate VINs that are visible (1960s law in the USA) and then take the chipped key data away from BMW exclusively!

The BMW database connecting VINs to key chip RF data should remain the exclusive domain of BMW. Allowing locksmiths acess to this data will result in a drastic increase in stolen BMWs!!!!

Just to some up the whole thread, NEVER let your battery die with key in the ignition, unless you like making trips to the stealer for new keys.

I received my new keys today (1 day turn around was pretty impressive) and the X5 came back to life on the first turn!!!

Thanks again for all the help along the way.

Thanks for posting a follow up.

Here. let me fix that last quote.

NEVER let your wife drive the X and leave the key in the ignition, unless you like making trips to the stealer for new keys

:bustingup:bustingup:bustingup

yeah.. that reminded me the posting by one our members on THE longest thread about his wife/gf shredding the tire and then telling him on the phone that SOMETHING is wrong with HIS truck!!! All, while sitting in the truck and eating chicken... :rofl::rofl::rofl:

and now poor alex has this problem. last night i replaced the door carrier. cost $170 and 2 hours of labor....

today drove car perfect. Until leaving the worksite and the car wouldnt start. put key in and it didnt start.

ordered new key $160. awaiting tomorrow.

My boss looks at me and shakes his head saying there goes another car payment...