X5 Valuation
 

Hey guys

I have a 2005 X5 4.8is, perfect condition, black on black. 140,000kms
2 sets of rims, new brakes, and a 4YR/60k third-party warranty.

Just wondering what I should be fetching on this vehicle in the used market.
My costs so far are all in $31,000 CDN

I was thinking 25k but have not had much interest at the price level.

Any thoughts?

dude, hate to say but you gotta drop your price. many 4.8is models here now for about $20k. i was looking at one this morn. loaded.

MILES?
your second tire set doesn't add value. Sorry

There are websites that are already set up to help sellers value their vehicles based not only on the car's options and conditions...but will look at similar vehicles in your same location as well.

Try some of these sites that will help you much better than us...instead of a biased appraisal...you can base the current value on geographical sales and other unbiased facts:

• Official Kelley Blue Book New Car and Used Car Prices and Values
• New Cars, Used Cars, Car Reviews and Pricing - Edmunds.com
• New Cars, Used Cars, Car Reviews | Cars.com
• New Cars, Used Cars - Find Cars at AutoTrader.com

Calgary? Perfect condition?

These 2 usually don't go together unless you stored it indoors every winter, VERY unlikely seeing as most AWD vehicles are used as primary vehicles during severe weather. My '03 X5 4.4 spt pkg has NEVER turned a wheel on snow and has NEVER seen the harmful effects of the sands, salts and magnesium chloride spread on roads to make them passable for vehicle that have no right being out in severe weather. 8 winters of use is usually extremely visible when put on a lift next to one that has never been subjected to winter driving.

Most in the market for a 25k used vehicle are shopping the entire vehicle market in a HUGE radius of their home. My search area was from FL to southern CA.

FWIW, to get top dollar you need the best condition vehicle on the continent, not just in your immidate area.

Thanks for the insights guys.

its 140,000 KM and the car is a Vancouver vehicle. Has only been in Calgary for 3 weeks. I am not opposed to let it go for $20k. Seems reasonable.


thanks!

I was told by my dealer that the trade in value of 2005 x5 4.4 was about $11k . it had a bad engine. not sure what it will be worth after they put in a brand new engine.

lol, what does that even mean?

That thing is worth $70k all day every day. Drive it around as such.

Selling it, thats another story...

It always boggles me how when we are looking there are none to find, they are "super rare" and go for high dollar.

Yet when we sell they are "heavily depreciated" "undesired" "blah blah blah"

Supply and demand. the 4.8is is not THAT common. It is quite rare. The e70 4.8 is no comparison, and the price gap to an x5m is HUGE. its a great common ground for people, like myself that think the body style is timeless and the engine/transmission are a pleasure to operate.

Since you are in Canada, the easiest look up is autotrader.ca Using that site for a national search (Canada only), there were 195 between 2004 and 2006. Looking just at 2005 models, there are 63. Filter down to 140,000 km range, and I got 29 results, considering all engine models. They ranged from $9000 to $22,000 and note that the $22k one is an outlier at a dealer. The bulk of them are in the $15k to $17 k range. There are four 4.8 models offered (2 at $17k, 2 at $18k). Now recall that these are asking prices, so transaction prices will be lower. This is your competition.

I would say that if anybody offers you $20 k you should take it and run. Seems like you should be listing it for $18, and be willing to accept something less than that.

Good luck.

There's a reason why the KBB vehicle value website requires a zip code be input before displaying a value on your vehicle, location plays a major role in wear/tear and therefore value.

Some forum members come here and see an Arizona 4.8 "sold for" price and think their "rust belt" vehicle has the same value when NOTHING is further from the truth.

On a road trip to New Mexico last month I saw several Auto Salvage yards with 60 yr old VWs, Chevys and military vehicles dragged out front and displaying "for sale" signs. Location plays a huge role in vehicle condition regardless of how pristine the vehicle looks while sitting on the ground, putting it up on a lift will show the TRUE condition.

My truck is a "rust belt" Illinois car. The undercarriage is almost immaculate. There is NO WAY you could tell the difference between mine and an AZ or FL car. Period.

Your X may very well the exception to the rule. I would bet if you have operated it in the winter months, a removal of the splash guards will show the brake lines have a healthy patena of corrosion.

KBB works on AVERAGE condition for similar vehicles in the immidate area. Most owners do not properly chassis wash after each exposure to winter road chemicles and show it.

Took a look at your graveyard shots, the rusty lower shock bolts are clearly visible, these are not rusted on my 160k mile FL/TX '03 X, Period.

I would think the rusted shock bolts are pretty typical, but point taken.

My brake lines have been replaced, not sure if it was for rust reasons or not.

The reality is that us northerners have to buy cars from the area. Not everyone can or wants to fly to AZ to buy a car. Especially a Canadian...

The bolt rust is extremely common seeing as most all Xs have seen exposure to road salt/magnesium chloride.

Most every hard brake line replacement is due to corrosion (barring damage due to impact).

Agree most are shopping in area, the point I was making is that some owners see a vehicle sold in an area less abusive to vehicle condition then theirs and automatically think their vehicle has identical valuation while that is hardly the case.

FWIW, I just returned to TX from a trip to FL, while there I performed a PPI on a low mileage '07 M6 vert (hardly a winter use car such as an all wheel drive X), looked good until it was in the air, could tell in a minute the car was a winter driver due to fastener/brake line rust. Upon evaluation of the reg history the M6 was an Ohio car until '11. No need to buy a car with this condition when there are others in better shape.

I spent over 1 yr shopping the used car market from FL to TX, for a one owner sport pkg M62 powered X. The one I settled on was only registered in Lake Mary, FL, full BMW service history (was on 2nd set of dealer sourced tires (star on sidewall designates BMW tires), had no rust at all (even the OE rotors/calipers). Found owners business card and contacted him, was told the X was never north of GA after delivery in FL.

Some here (myself included) look at travel expense as a small expense to get the best vehicle possible, in most cases with well maintained/good condition vehicles, geographic location is the last factor in the "which vehicle" equation.

While I agree, location is definitely a deciding factor, I don't think it's THE deciding factor. Clean is clean, regardless of location. We've all seen hacked up low mileage cars and mint high mileage cars. There are hundreds of elements in a used car purchase. It sounds like, for you, a northern car was a deal breaker. I happen to disagree, but that's ok.

From a mechanical standpoint, what is your reasoning behind the rust being such a problem? Sure, brake lines, that's an obvious risk. But a little surface rust on the undercarriage doesn't pose any real threat to me. Serious question, not trying to ruffle feathers.

Cheers

I think if the car is in perfect or near perfect condition you will get a top dollar for it... Just a few months ago i saw an '05 4.8is that was listed for 28K as a private sale it did have around 80K though...it was listed for a few months but it got sold eventually... If you are in no rush to sell, wait and see what happens... Now you will probably not going to get 31K for it but mid 20 should be reasonable... I know someone posted above that a few 4.8is are posted on autotrader for around 18K in Calgary, but i've looked at them all (as i was in a market for an X5) and they are all beat to shit...People in Calgary will pay top dollar for a good product...
I sold my e46 a few years ago for 5 or 6K more than what everyone else was listing theirs for, it took me awhile to sell it, but the first person that looked it - bought it, because it was in a perfect condition and the price was justified...

Not trying to ruffle feathers on this end too.:thumbup:

Just pointing out if a seller is looking for top top $ for their vehicle they will be dealing with buyers who have no issues with traveling long distances to inspect the vehicle. There is a buyer expectation the car is a pristine example of the model.

There are numerous areas unseen that are also corroding when you see rusty fastener heads on a vehicle, the sheetmetal seams and contact points between components have been subjected to the same corossive chemicals that caused the fastener heads to regrade. The sodium chloride breaks down/corrodes EVERY single material used to produce an X with exception of the glass. Rubber item degrade (CV boots, bushings, airride bags, guilbi, door seals, window gaskets/seals, gaskets, wire insulation/electrical contact points (search "tail light contact areas are corroded, lights don't work" or "had to install a ground jump wire to get my tail lights to function"), i could go on and on).

BMW spells out the issue in black and white yet few if any owners actually take the time/effort/money to clean and seal the chassis prior to each winter/spring.

Quote from Richmond BMW.......

When wintry weather starts to set in, many state authorities turn to road salt to try and keep the roads and highways moving. Road salt actively melts snow and ice that may have formed on the surface of the highway. Once sprinkled, it can prevent snow and ice from settling in the first place, improving traction for road users and helping to keep the traffic flowing more safely. The main disadvantage of road salt is that it can potentially cause damage to your car. Find out how to deal with road salt during winter with these tips from Richmond BMW.
Prepare your car’s paint work for winter
You should never leave protecting your car for winter until after the bad weather has set in. By then, it is almost too late, and it is far more difficult to prevent damage to the car. While the weather is still warm, thoroughly wash your car and then apply a coat of protective wax, followed by a coat of wax sealant. These products help protect the paint work from the corrosive effects of road salt.
Prepare the undercarriage for winter
It is not just the paint work that requires protection. Your car’s undercarriage is also very vulnerable, particularly your brake and fuel lines. These critical components are very susceptible to damage from corrosion, which in turn could make your car unsafe to drive. Buy a sealant for the undercarriage or, if you do not have the facilities to work safely on the undercarriage, talk to your local service department about doing the work for you.
Remove salty deposits straight away
When you have been driving on salted roads, it is important to remove salt deposits as soon as possible. Your local car wash may be a quick and simple way to do this, and in some areas, mechanical car washes feature steam cleaning and undercarriage cleaning for added convenience. At the very least, try to get into the habit of hosing the car down each night when you have been driving on salty roads, and then store the car inside a garage, if possible.
Clean thoroughly and wax the car regularly
During the winter months, when the roads are salty, you must make time to give your car a good clean. If you can afford it, pay to have the car professionally cleaned—otherwise, you will need to it by hand. Spray down the vehicle first, paying attention to areas like the bumpers and wheel wells. Scrub down with warm, soapy water, and try adding a few tablespoons of baking soda to remove stubborn salt deposits. When the car has been washed, dry thoroughly and then apply a replacement coat of wax for added protection.
Prevention is key
Of course, if you have the choice, you might choose to avoid driving on salty roads. When driving conditions are this treacherous, there is always the risk of a collision, and if you can avoid exposing your car to road salt, you will avoid the risk of any corrosive damage.
Posted in Richmond BMW News | Leave a comment

Dealers use Galves on trades and KBB on the retail side

Galves used car values: The professional's choice since 1957

i just picked up a E70 3.0L for 22.9k in Vancouver
i referenced between craigslist and autotrader.ca to find it

see what they are offering, ur lucky it's a 4.8L tho because they are harder to find around here so at least that gives u a tiny bit of value you in the shitty BMW depreciation world

bought an E46 4 yrs ago almost and it's down 65% value from purchase date already, might have to sell it alone on that fact even though i still love the vehicle

price we pay for the ultimate driving machine tho but i do love these vehicles

Ok, why you should listen to me; i used to buy and sell cars for a hobby. Now i do it for fun and make a living at it. Not to toot my horn but im very good at what i do and have been at it since i bought my first car at age 16. That was 19 years ago. First off, where are you advertising it? Craigslist, autotrader, cars.com are all great for different reasons. For your car, in your price range id choose one or both of the latter two. Craigslist isnt opportune for higher end expensive cars. Having said that, its free and its effective so put it on there as well. Clean it up, clean it like its never been clean before. Park it outside on a nice day. No snow. Dear god, no snow in pictures. That just tells us as buyers that its been driven in the snow and frequently.
Take high resolution pictures(this is for craigslist. More on that later) with the nicest camera you can get your hands on. No cell phones. I dont care if you have the newest, shinyest, 14 mp cell phone camera. They never look as good as pics coming from a camera that was meant to take pictures. Skimp on this, and that buyer flys right over your ad. Keep your kids, dogs, cats, and anything that has a pulse out of the picture. They might be cute to you but when i see them in the picture i now know; there is dog hair in the car, there are cheerios wedged in hidden places, and there s something about the car you are hiding by trying to divert the attention to your girlfriend. And your fat cousin should be inside the house. Who let him outside!? Keep them away, far away. Try and keep landscape out of it as much as possible. We are looking for an x5, not your neighbors house or their batmobile replica in their driveway. Setup an account on craigslist if you dont have one already. Use an image host to imbed larger images into your ad. You MUST do this. Larger images get more attention. If you need help with that PM me. Provide as much info as you can and BE HONEST. Buyers arent idiots or blind. If you are going to be dishonest with your info then keep your car and dont waste anyones time. Provide a cell phone number. Yes this seems dangerous but ill tell you, when im buying cars i skip right over the ads without phone numbers. Buyers have very short spans of interest. You must give them a way to get in touch with you easily.I dont care if your email goes straight to your cell phone, the minute that buyer stops looking at your ad, their interst falters. They need to see your beautiful,CLEAN x5 in large pictures and hurredly call you with the ad up in front of their faces. Also giving them the option to text i have found helps alot. If you start getting harrassing calls, take your number out of the ad. Ive never had a problem with that. Ask what you want out of the car and keep it there for 3 days. No interest at all and youve followed my directions? Drop the price 1000 dollars and wait 3 more days. Keep doing this until you A. Sell the car or B. cant drop the price any lower. There is what i call "sizzle price" for every car. Youll know when you reach it i promise. I hope this helps. Any questions you may have just pm me.

Hey Bagpipe,

Good info. Thanks. I had thought about doing this on the side, as I'm constantly browsing the markets and have a passion for cars.

Where do you like to buy the cars from in the first place? Buying at retail and selling at retail doesn't seem like it would be profitable. Do you go after cars that need work? Auction? Or just that car on craigslist that is under-priced?

I agree with your process and as to having your phone number listed, I always spell out the last four digits this will keep spammers at bay. I never leave an email because of spammers.

I disagree with putting the phone number on Craigslist.

I agree that some potential buyers don't have patience. However, if they don't have patience to send an email (which I pick up on my phone and answer immediately) then they likely don't have patience to stay with me through the purchase process. It is a useful way of weeding out time wasters, in my opinion.

You might but most people don't. And I've never had a scammer (the ultimate time, waters in my opinion) call me. But they sure email. Its typically not a deal breaker I've just found having my number up has had no negative consequences and had proven to assist in selling my cars on a much faster time scale. Like I said, it can always be taken down.

Only thing I like about leaving a number on Craigslist is be able to text or receive texts
Def a lot fast form of communication when buying/selling ur vehicle
When I purchase my X5 from a dealer I was actually able to text the salesman back and forth
Helped get all my questions out with ease
Made for a quick buy instead of playing phone or email tag