Key problem
 

The key unlocks doors with remote but wont start, inpa doesnt show a key number, 0 for key number. Anyway. Can program it without bring to dealer?
Please help. Thanks

what is the history on the key? was it left in ignition when the battery drained, by any chance?

No problems with key history. Bought car with 1 key. Never drained and key battery is good. Randomly stopped working. I tried the reprogram ignition trick, hold unlock, position 1, hold lock and unlock, that didnt work.

just recently we had a thread on a key falling off the sync table - that event just bricked the key... but there was a reason, the key was left in ignition when battery died... your case shows same symptoms, but not the initial cause...

lets see if experts here can chime in...

Yea, how did that get fixed? All the codes, the changing codes. I just reprogrammed it again using the trick. But tht just programs the lock unlock an trunk. Not the starting codes. And dealership doesnt sound like they can program codes.

the key in the other post was dead, beyond revival... once out of sync, it is out of sync... :(

Yeah mine is out of sync. Saying key 0 in ecu memory. I will look for dis/sss instructions how to program key into memory. And talk with other techs at dealership. Maybe i need a new key. Would i be able to order one without towing the car?

key 1 is registered as key "0"... so, maybe, there is a light at the end of the tunnel...

you need docs proving your ownership to the car, and don't need the car... the key will come synced to your car's ignition, but not to the alarm system, you will need to initialize that portion yourself...

True. The guy at service prob doesnt know what he taking about, he just said how they program keys, but that only does locks.
I need coded keys!
What do you mean by alarm? Please explain intialize process.
Thanks

Sasha, have you seen this thread: http://www.xoutpost.com/showthread.php?t=91400 ?

one of the posts explains the 3 systems involved in the key operation... in detail... looks like your issue... cut through first few pages where we are trying to narrow issue down...

Cliff notes about remote keys:

The remote keys have 3 features/systems that are ALL independent of one another but work in conjunction with each other:

1. EWS (immobilizer)
2. FZV (remote central locking)
3. DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system)

EWS shuts down starting/ignition/fuel and uses a transponder inside the key that communicates with the EWS control module and DME/ECU. If the ISN (individual serial number) that was assigned to your car's EWS components as it came off the assembly line don't communicate with each other...the car won't start. The only way to communicate with the EWS system is with dedicated hardware/software...and the ISN can NOT be changed. The transponder's ISN (and individual key codes 1-10) are already written to your EWS control module...thus there is no "coding" that is required for a new key to start your car if you purchase a new key (any key...even the non-remote keys) from a BMW dealership. A DEAD key battery will NOT affect the key's ability to start the car....EWS is self powered thru induction (ring antenna around the ignition & induction coil inside key powers up the EWS chip inside the key which allows it to send & receive data).

FZV is the central locking system, and the remote key transmits a one-way signal to the antenna in the rear window which is then sent to a receiver located in the rear top center of the vehicle which then sends a signal to the GM to lock/unlock the doors & fuel filler flap.

DWA is the anti-theft alarm siren system, and the remote key transmits a one-way signal to the antenna in the rear window which is then sent to a receiver located in the rear top center of the vehicle which then sends a signal to the GM to arm/disarm the alarm siren.

FZV & DWA require the use of the battery inside the key to send it's signal to the car. These 2 systems also can be programmed to other BMWs that have the same set-up (and radio frequency) to lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car. This is the procedure that can be done in your drive-way to reinitialize the keys to your car (by inserting key in ignition, removing, then pressing the buttons).

The EWS transponder can't be "recoded" to another BMW...it can get out of sync...and BMW DIS/GT-1 (and some of the aftermarket software) can "resync" the EWS code tables...this can only be done with keys that have already been coded to your EWS control module (again, which have already been prepped for your vehicle when it rolled off the assembly line)...unlike the FZV/DWA features whereby any key that has the same frequency (315 MHz in the USA/Canada/Australia or 433 MHz in Europe) can be programmed to your vehicle.

Thanks Term!
I just bought a new key. Awaiting tomorrow. If someone knows hows to calibrate ews. would be great.

Thanks. How does the key loose its ews value? it still sends data.

Honestly, I'm not absolutely sure how EWS components get out of sync...other than something major or unusual probably occurs...like a power surge, or if one of the components is disconnected/swapped/replaced with another component that's not coded to the car (by owners unfamiliar with the idiosyncrasies of EWS).

One example, a forum member on a 7 series forum from Europe had purchased a blank key on eBay and had the blade cut to fit his ignition. He wanted to know why his original key no longer worked. After getting more details...he had first inserted his original key, then shut down the engine and removed the original key, then promptly inserted the eBay key which started the vehicle. He then proceeded to drive the car, but when he tried to start his car the next time (using the original key) it no longer started the car, then he tried his new eBay key, and it wouldn't start the car either. He didn't know why. Well, there's a 10 second window right after engine shut down where EWS doesn't ask for the ISN if the car is restarted...so when he inserted the eBay key, within this short window, the car started. But this caused the rolling codes to go out of sync since he used a key that wasn't coded with his car's ISN

If your car falls under EWS 3.3...it contains "rolling code technology" which changes a series of numerical tables with each use...so, if an electrical surge interrupts a component or a foreign module is inserted into the mix and a failed attempt to start the car occurs...the components can become "unsynced". But for the most part...this is a rare occurance.

thanks qsilver!
I did a lot of research on the ews and ended up purchasing a key. Inpa and Dis v57 dont have the resyn of ews/dme so i used car soft with synced them successfully but key still wont start. So i ordered a new key that should be in tomorrow. Hope it works

interesting on monday i thought about the ignition on my X, someone asked if it was easy to steal them. I have seen chinease tools to program keys in secounds. But still thought my X has a good Stock alarm and imbolizer. Should be hard to steal it. But now i Know how great it is when the key randomly looses the codes. something went wrong in the chip..

thanks qsilver!
I did a lot of research on the ews and ended up purchasing a key. Inpa and Dis v57 dont have the resyn of ews/dme so i used car soft with synced them successfully but key still wont start. So i ordered a new key that should be in tomorrow. Hope it works

interesting on monday i thought about the ignition on my X, someone asked if it was easy to steal them. I have seen chinease tools to program keys in secounds. But still thought my X has a good Stock alarm and imbolizer. Should be hard to steal it. But now i Know how great it is when the key randomly looses the codes. something went wrong in the chip..

SAME THING WITH NEW KEY!!!
lot of interior noise going on. put key in. all light when turning to start it makes on tick noise and thats it. starter doesnt turn...

Was going to post sooner that there may be a problem with the truck that is not key related. Your truck has some electrical issues.

click-click-click-click during start up - battery, isn't it?

1 click!
think its the starter.

so on m54 its under the car... any pics how to get to it... I want to try jumping the solenoid...

When you posted this was there a "ticking" noise?

no thats with new key now

Slow down there, have you verifed battery condition??? You should see over 12.4 V w/multimeter at the terminals underhood.

13.5 volts

Your battery is shot. A load test will show it's NG.

Top voltage should be below 13v.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...teries_to_fail

Read.........
'High acid concentration on the bottom, on the other hand, artificially raises the open circuit voltage".

going to pepboys to get a new battery and than returning it maybe. I have a battery thats still under warranty, installed in july, its a bosch.

i will try unhooking the MAF
pulling fuel pump relay

maybe hit the starter if i can get to it

13.5 volts on unrunning car? it should be well below that. 13.5 is usually close to what it should be when car is running.

Yep. With the engine running and alt/volt reg working correctly it should be between 13.5 and 14.7.

thats what DIS V57 was saying when connected.

I would verifed by using a multimeter on the underhood jump terminals, or better still, directly off the battery.

ok, thanks for info. i shall try towing the X5 1.5 miles using a 2wd colorado and a emergency tow cable and than test everything else. im thinking the starter is the problem.