Tips for Vanos / Chain Guides 4.4i
 

So, just finished replacing the chain guides on my 4.4i, 130,000 miles. I caught the problem before it was very bad at all, so that was the good news. But, while I was at it, I did everything else I should while it was torn down. Here are a couple things I noted during the job that may help others later.

Here is the DIY for the Vanos rebuild from Beisan Systems:
Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure
It is based on a 5 or 7 series, but very close. The only thing I did differently was remove the dip stick tube, as it just didn't give me enough room. Also because I was taking the lower timing case off as well and needed the room. The dipstick isn't as easy to remove as on the cars. It enters the oil pan behind the A/C compressor. Order ALL of the parts as suggested on their DIY, you will need them.

I got most of the other parts from OEM Bimmer Parts, mainly from this page:
Engine Mechanical Parts
Valve cover gasket kits, chain guide kit, intake gaskets, oil separator and hoses, etc.

The other big order I got from Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips
Mainly gaskets that were not available from OEM Bimmer.
Coolant drain crush washer on block, crankshaft seal, Vanos servo seals, valley pan, camshaft oil seals for inside the Vanos unit (6), dip stick tube O-ring, water pump gasket and O-rings, throttle body gasket, timing cover gaskets, lower oil pan gasket, and last but not least the crankshaft bolt. (a.k.a the "Jesus" bolt)

You MUST have the cam timing tool set to do this job. I rented mine from Bimmer Tool Rental. Their set comes with the Beisan Systems Vanos Press Tool that you will need to rebuild the Vanos units. $75 for a month!

Also, you need the crankshaft holding tool to remove the crankshaft bolt, and re-install it. I got mine off Ebay for $85. I debated making it, but just got lazy..

I used a serious set of 3/4" drive breaker bars, with long extensions for both the crank holding tool, and the 27mm socket on the crank bolt. Work smarter, not harder. Get a cheater bar before you break your arms off. That bolt is really in there! Treat it with penetrating oil the day before, that helps.

Some of the other DIY threads I used to help along the way. Not 100% accurate, but close.

DIY: Timing Chain Guide & Timing Chain Replacement
Oil pan is different, and there isn't an internal oil seperator.. Also my upper oil pan gasket was metal and was in good shape. His was paper and ripped..

Lower chain case cover removal and reinstallation (M62TU)
Good shots of the lower timing case removed, so you can see all the bolts. But, the X5 does have a bolt on the back of the power steering pump that connects below the alternator, total pain in the ass! I left mine on till I had the lower case away from the engine, then took the nut off. Then, when installing, put that nut on the power steering pump before you put the lower case back on the block.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...e-rails-4.html
This thread is pretty good, at least its an X5! haha

I stripped and painted my valve covers. The stock stuff just looks like hell, even though you only see about 20% of it. Lots of work, but at least I feel better about it. I used aircraft paint stripper, and high temp flat black paint.

Chemicals: Oil, Filter, Coolant, penetrating oil, silicone spray for O-ring installs, degreaser, ultra grey gasket sealer, etc..

Tools: 27mm for crankshaft bolt, probably get a 3/4" drive for your huge ass breaker bar, I think a 24mm for something I can't remember, 19mm for the cam chain tensioner, GOOD set of torx bits (snapped a bunch of cheap ones), torque wrench that works both ways (the cam bolts are left thread so they torque left, some wrenches don't indicate going left)

Thats about all that comes to mind. If anyone has any questions, just ask. Be happy to help someone through this job..

I just remembered, I had to get the Vanos Non-Return valve (2) from my local BMW dealer. I couldn't find them online. I think this is critical to keep oil in the Vanos unit, and prevent the startup noise most engines get with age.

Part # 11121706921

Dude, great post!

About how many total hours of work did you put into the job?

I'm not sure the total time. I spread out the tear down over a few days. Then ordered the parts. While waiting I cleaned / painted stuff and prepared for install. Also did the Vanos seals while waiting. That is half a day probably. Once I had the parts, it took me about a day and a half of assembly before I could start it.

Nice post Dude! I wish I had this when I was changing my guides! Couple of things to add for anyone using his write up - the vanos non return valves he mentions are part # 11121706921 and I may have missed it while skimming through but make sure you also get a new tensioner part # 11317531813

One last thing, verify that the parts you replace are specific to your year, month and model at RealOEM.com Online BMW Parts Catalog

That dipstick is a PITA!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks DallasGV. Good point, I replaced the tensioner as well.

740ilDuke is correct. Seriously, what a pain! But in the end, I don't see how the lower case would have come off with the dipstick installed. I have about 6K miles since the job and everything is working perfectly. It doesn't even leak anything!!!

Dudewanarace,

Thank you for posting this. My 2003 X5 4.4 is exhibiting vanos and timing chain symptoms. It currently has 135,000 miles. Cold start sounds like a diesel and it makes a metallic grinding sound when the engine is revved up above 1200 rpm--sounds like the chain is hitting the block or something. Noticed reduced torque at low speed especially when going up hill.

Did you perform the tasks all by yourself? Can one person do all the work by himself?

Yes you can do the work yourself. As stated, you should have all the parts before getting in so that you don't have to wait on them.
Read the procedure on Beisan website several times before doing it.