Upgraded to a 04 4.4i - question!
 

I had a 2002 3.0i before and decided to move up to a 4.4i. I pretty much know all about what I should expect with the 3.0 (M54) in terms of repair/maintenance.

Can those with experience with the 04 4.4i (N62), give some advice on what I should look to take care of now before it goes? WP/pully/CCV etc..etc.
It has 115K miles on it?

Thanks

Valve cover gaskets, CCV (its really easy), Probably waterpump, My alternator also had to be replaced. Oil leaks..

The N62 engine is notorious for the weep hole coolant leak. If it hasnt happened, then it will very soon.

Do a search and have at least $1500 ready for the repair.

Ive never heard of that.. I never had one come into the shop either

Its very common on the 7 series. There is plenty of reports of it happening on the 5 and 6 aswell.

My 04 N62 X5 is currently in the shop getting the repair done and the mechanic told me hes had two 7's in the last month with the same issue.

Do a quick google search, its pretty worrying.

Timing chain guide rail.
Preventative maintenance is pretty much the same on both model.

Thanks for the reply guys. I had the dealer do some work before I bought it. Boots, some leaks, trany sleeve leak. It has a strange vibration when standing still in drive but fine when driving no wheel shake. Someone told me it could be the motor monts - they have seen this before with my model. Will have to look into that and take care of the WP/belts/CCV when this weather in GA realize that it should be spring.

I could be wrong, but I think the timing chain guide rail issue is more prone with the M62TU V8s (2000-03) moreso than the N62 (2004-06)...I'll let the professional wrenches chime in about this. :)

The N62 suffers more with the violent shaking upon cold start-up from the valvetronic intermediate levers vs the timing chain guides on the M62TU.

LOL...not sure I should be worried or happy after reading that attachment...

Thanks Qsilver7 for the correction.

Just got my truck back after having the weep hole coolant leak fixed.

The seal at the end of the transfer pipe had completely corroded.

The overall cost of the repair was £1200 ($1800) :yikes:

I choose to use the Bimmerpipe over the All German Auto pipe purely down to the cost.

Attachment 58296

Model? Model Year? Build date? Having a signature with the aforementioned info goes a long way in helping others on the forum to know if what you experienced may be in their future when doing a search.

You've provided very important information along with a pic...but by not having any car information in your posts...noobs (and older forum members that don't frequent often) can come across your informative post when doing a forum search and not know if it applies to them or not.

Really consider adding car information...it's like a gift to the forum that keeps on giving without you having to do anything after the initial sharing of data. :)

Im sure I mentioned I have an 04 4.4 V8 N62 further back in the thread.

Anyway the build date is April 2004 and is currently on 87k miles.

Just motor mounts for me on the N62 engines I have had. Otherwise solid.

Question on the motor mounts...what exactly were the signs that it was the mounts? For me right now when in drive and standing still, I fell like I am sitting in a massage chair on low to medium...lol
My Indy said it would be about $700-800 to fix and he would do they trany mounts while in there.

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Were is the weep hole located? I assume its not an easy DIY?

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Each time this has happened I have felt vibration in the steering wheel at idle, but not to the level you mention, even in cases where 2 mounts were broken. Often you will have a "clunk" on hard acceleration as the engine twists.

Not sure what your indy is pricing in the job but the mount is only $80 and there should only be a couple hours of labor involved in the job for one mount.

Its located at the front of the engine just the left of the water pump.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm66/mrbmwx5/046.jpg

Many people have done the repair DIY.

The intake manifold needs to come off , then the valley pan. But thats if you use the bimmerpipe or aga pipe.

If you do it the other way, then its definitely not a DIY job.
The heads and timing gear need to come off to be able to slide the pipe in from the front of the block.

IMHO There are a couple of ways to look at this. #1 You can read all the negative "I had or have this problem or that problem" and worry yourself sick about it. Or #2 you can start saving your money and learn to develop the "if it ain't broke don't fix it mantra". Your problems will not be the same as others.

Remember standard maintaining procedures will keep you from being stuck on the side of the road. I haven't seen your vehicle so there's no way I would pretend to advise you what to look for. I suggest that you Have your vehicle inspected by a trusted professional BMW mechanic and fix things that are broke or will tend to effect the performance of other parts. After that have a happy drive.....:thumbup:

I hear you buddy...my concerns was only about the stuff that is well known. When I had my 3.0...there were a few things that almost everyone ran into...crack rubber boot....DISA valve... etc. Those kind of things is what I was really interred in. Thanks for the feed back.

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