Cooling Fan Fault
 

Notice the last time that I scanned my X with Carsoft 6.5 and BMW Scanner 1.4 I received a fault for a Cooling Fan. Had some time today to investigate it a little more.

Try forcing the fan on by turning on the AC. The AC Compressor never engaged so I took out my AC gauge and connected it to the low and high side ports. The static pressure was 45 psi on both the low side and high side (Compressor not running) so there was refrigerant in the system and enough to turn off the low side of the pressure switch.

Took out the laptop and ran BMW Scanner again to check the HVAC for any trouble code none was found, engage the ac switch and that was highlighted in the program, but the compressor did not engage.

So I'm wondering if the DME is not sending a signal to engage the compressor because of the Cooling Fan fault that is in the DME. Try clearing the fault but it keeps coming back. The fan spin so it is not seized.

Haven't bench tested the fan, but my understanding is that the DME send a grounding frequency signal to the fan which cause the fan to spin and at a speed determine by the frequency. No relay is use in turning this fan on. It has two thick wire which I assume is the + and - wires and a thin wire which is the signal wire.

Anyone have this problem before? Solution?

Update:

So today the weather was actually mild enough to work on the X again. Decided to look more into why the aux fan was throwing up a DTC. Got my test light out, unplugged the fan connector and with the engine running I tested the terminals in the connector. None of the terminals lite up my test light. So I must have a blown fuse. Looked at my Bentley as to where the fuse for the aux fan was located and it right behind the glove box. After washing my hands so that I don't mess up the interior, I removed the glove box and there was the fuse box. Holy moly that a pretty big fuse, I don't think I have one of those in the garage. Proceeded to test the fuse and sure enough the fuse was blown. Check another fuse in the fuse box that was also a 50 amp fuse, but was mounted Horizontally instead of like the other fuses vertically. No power, so I removed the fuse hallelujah it's the spare fuse. Inserted the fuse in place of the blown fuse and went back outside to check the connector with my test light. Another Hallelujah the test light lite up. Should have remember what my dad taught me, fuse don't blow for no reason especially 50 amps fuse, but in my excitement to fix the X that little piece of advice didn't pop into my head. My wife thinks I'm coming down with Alzheimer. Plugged the connectors back together and before I could say Shazam, the genie in the fan came out. Having worked on British cars in my younger days I knew that once the genie left the wire, there was no way to put him back in. So it looks like the next expense will be a new aux fan.


..........................to be continue.

Final Update:

We got AC again. Installed the new fan motor and turn on the AC to see if the fan would run. After about a minute the fan kicked in, but the best news is that the compressor is kicking in so we got AC again. I guess that if the fan is bad the DME prevents the AC from coming on.

Had some time so I decided to open up the old fan and find out why it wouldn't run. Remember my first post that when the genie comes out I knew from past experience that you can never get the genie to go back in, looks like there was a major fire in the genie little house. Germany engineering at it finest, take an old standby like a dc motor and upgrade it with SMD devices combine with pulse signals from the DME to control the speed of the fan and now you know why this fricking fan is 500 bucks plus 4 hours to install.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...psd8b694a4.jpg

There was a recall on those a while back when they first came out. BMW was telling owners to park their vehicles outside while they figured out a solution. Their reason? So when the car burns down, it won't take your house with it. Pretty sad if you ask me, but glad to see that you were able to tackle this yourself!

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...psd8b694a4.jpg

My wife and kids saw the picture and remark that it looks like a city with a quarter of it burnt to the ground.

Thanks for this post. Very helpful.

Btw, do you have diy instructions on how to replace the E53 Cooling/Aux fan?

I've heard of the complexities of the fan systems in our cars but this is the first time it's stared at me in the face...dang!

Thanks for posting all the details.

Unlike so many other posters that comes on this forum asking for help, but don't post the solution to their problem once it is solved, I believe that for the forum to be of any help to members solutions should be posted once the problem is solved.

Wow, that is one majorly fried fan. I'll be aware of looking out for the "genie" myself in the future thanks to this posting.

Ah yes, I do notice the cliffhanger posts with no resolution, and I appreciate those that do post up their solutions, thanks again.

Which reminds me, I need to go look the questions I've posted and see if I posted the solutions to the ones I've stumbled on the answers to. :D

Was your recall actually done????

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BOkV0csbNCM

BMW issued SI Bulletin 64 07 01 yesterday to notify dealers that all models that were recently recalled to replace the auxiliary/cooling fan would be recalled again.
Here is some of the pertinent info from the SI Bulletin:

"SUBJECT
Recall Campaign 01V-206: Engine Auxiliary/Cooling Fan - E46, E38, E39, E52, E53
MODEL
E46, 3 Series with manual transmission, produced 02/01/2001 up to 06/01/2001
E38, 7 Series from 11/01/2000 up to 06/30/2001
E39, 5 Series from 01/16/2001 up to 08/31/2001
E52, Z8 from 01/01/2001 up to 08/31/2001
E53, X5 from 12/18/2000 up to 09/05/2001
NOTE :
This notification contains important revisions to Recall Campaign 01V-206, Engine Auxiliary /Cooling Fan which has been revised.
ALL VEHICLES CAMPAIGNED UNDER THE CURRENT RECALL 01V-206 WILL BE RECALLED AGAIN USING THE FOLLOWING, NEW PART NUMBERS:
· E46 – PN 17 11 7 510 617
· E39 – PN 64 54 6 921 395
· E38/E52 – PN 64 54 6 921 383
· E53 – PN 64 54 6 921 381.
Should a customer who has received a Notification Letter for the Recall 01V-206 request that Recall 01V-206 be performed, proceed with the repairs described in this Service Bulletin.
This Service Information Bulletin is going to be updated shortly with the full VIN range of the affected vehicles. Customer notification mailings will follow.
SITUATION
The potential defect involves the engine auxiliary/cooling fan in certain MY 2001 BMW vehicles.
Fan operation, including variable speed, is electronically controlled. It is possible for the electrical circuitry in the fan control unit to overheat and fail, causing the fan to stop operating. If this were to occur, engine overheating and subsequent engine damage could result if vehicle continues to be operated, despite the warning provided by the coolant temperature gauge.
In addition, it is possible in some cases for the failure of the electrical circuitry to cause smoldering. In the extreme case, a fire in the fan control unit, which is mounted in the fan and located in the front of the engine compartment, could occur. This could happen either while the engine is running or after the ignition has been switched off since fan may run for up to 11 minutes after engine shutdown."

I found this one with a google search. Looks to be pretty straight forward. Mine is not working either so likely going to have to replace but going to check the fuse and the connector with hope its just an easy fix.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ditioning.html

If the 50 amp fuse is blown it not an easy fix. That mean the fan motor has crap out and a new aux fan will needs to be replaced.

Upallnight, I checked the fuse and it's fine but the fan still does not activate. Searching has not shown up anything other then reference to a relay but some have said there is no relay involved. The fan spins freely and the AC works fine at higher speeds.

Appreciate any thoughts

Bob
X5 2003.

Could still be a fan fault since the fan speed controller is built into the fan. You will need BMW specific software such as Inpa or BMW Scanner 1.4 to command the fan to turn on to verify that the fan is at fault. The controller receive a pulse signal from the DME to turn the fan on and control the fan speed. If the fan turns on after you command it with the software than the fan is probably o.k. The next item to check will be the switch for the AC on the console.

In my case the 50 amp fuse blew so I knew that I had to replace the fan.

Thanks for the feedback, I don't have the software so will need to get my shop to run this. Suppose this is a good idea before tearing out the front end.

You should have 12v continuous at the large conductors for the fan (key on or OFF). Check that. If you don't have 12v there, then behind the fuses in the fuse box are fusible links. I forget which one it is, but one of those is in direct line with the fan circuit.

It's a BIG RED fuse (50 amp). If the fuse is blown, then the fan is no good because that is the only device on that circuit. It take a direct short to blow that fuse.

Great, I'll check the voltage tomorrow and let you know the results. The fuse able link u mentioned is the type 50 amp fuse or is there something else? My fuse was okay, number 61.

Some other poster called it a fusible link, I always called it a fuse. It look like a typical blade fuse only BIGGER.

You can check the voltage at the fan connector attached to the fan shroud. It will have voltage whether the key is on or off or no key is in the ignition.

I took a reading at the connector and have 12 volts. So does this mean it's the motor or where does the resistor fit into this. I looked for the resistor based on the location shown in some other posts but it's not up front behind the grill. Also, what does this part do? The number is 64116917001 and it says it's a sensor for the temp and fan that's sits near the connector and mounted on the shroud. My pic was too large to attach.

Appreciate any advice.

There is a difference between a fusible link and a fuse. I'm quite aware of this.

Also, I know more about this circuit than I care to admit after a reverse polarity incident w/a new battery.

If the 50 amp fuse is still good (easy to tell, use your volt/ohm meter to ensure there is 12v to ground across both legs). Then unscrew the fuse panel from the fuse box (after disconnecting the battery). Behind the fuse panel there are little fusible links. They have a metal tab sticking out of each end and are flat and about 1/8 inch thick. See this thread and scroll down to post #14: Here's what I'm talking about...

OBTW: my red 50A fuse was fine. My fusible link. Not so much. Replaced it and all was well with the X5's fan again.

YMMV.

Amazing, a hidden fusible link. But if I have 12 volts to my connector to the aux fan, wouldn't this imply the fusible link is fine? I'll read over that thread you referenced now. Appreciate your help.

Yes. If you have 12v at the fan connector, all this is interesting but irrelevant. :thumbup:

Read your missing link thread, what a hoot. Interesting they decided to put two fuses in line. Must be a hell of a motor. So r we concluding my issue is the fan? Would the resister have any impact? I'll put power to the fan and try this next when I return from a wine drinking tour in north Georgia. Driving the Porsche instead.

The fan needs a pulse width modulated signal (skinny wire on the connector) to command the fan to turn on. You can turn on the fan through software such as BMW Scanner 1.4 or INPA. Since you measured the connector and have 12 volts, that means you already have power and ground (two thick wires).

Sounds more like a shunt circuit that blew when you installed or connected the battery in reverse polarity. Same thing happen to my neighbor when he went to install a new battery in his Rolls Royce. Replace the shunt device and the Rolls was running again.

I don't advise lifting the heavy X5 battery into position when you are tired. Those dang cables are right in the way and if one is not paying attention one can make contact with those cables. Not such a bad thing if you are putting the battery in with the terminals in their correct position. If one puts it in with the terminals reversed, well then things get exciting and expensive (both door controllers went poof too...).

Lots of learning of which circuit goes where and my Fluke got a heavy duty workout chasing voltage...

Did not think of it that way since I already have 12 volts at the connector. So I assume it's the fan motor or could there be an issue with not receiving the modulated pulse? Where is this generated from?

DME