my 4.8iS to do/done list
 

I will be updating the first page as I progress with my list

1. installed aspheric, heated electrochromatic driver's side mirror ($100 delivered, OE part, ebay, part # 51168247769, http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=FB93&mospid=47748&btnr=51_4834& hg=51&fg=07) 5/3/13
2. installed blacked out front badge ($8, chinese unit, ebay) 5/2/13
3. installed rear blacked out roundel badge ($6, chinese unit, ebay) 5/27/13
4. installed blacked out center wheels' roundels (chinese units, ebay) 8/26/12
5. installed blacked out valve stem caps ($5, chinese units, ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Car-Tire-Tyre-Valve-Stem-Caps-with-Keychain-Spanner-for-BMW-Cars-Black-/121114298479?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &hash=item1c32f9886f&vxp=mtr#ht_1683wt_1161) 8/26/12
6. installed blacked out steering wheel roundel (chinese units, ebay) 12/12/12
7. replaced 2 CCV membranes, right membrane was torn ($34 for 2, OE, BMW of Fairfax, http://www.xoutpost.com/935410-post84.html)
8. installed OEM fire extinguisher (part # 72 60 0 000 335,http://www.xoutpost.com/880956-post30.html) 9/15/12
9. installed OE first aid kit (http://www.xoutpost.com/880956-post30.html) 9/15/12
10. installed OE TV module 9/15/12
11. installed reverse camera (a good source of info is at this post - http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...a-navi-17.html, also a write-up is available for the license plate light camera from ebay, email me - terminatorx5 at midnightstar dot com; check the pics of the reverse camera install here - http://www.xoutpost.com/904196-post137.html)
12. installed aftermarket headrests with TV/DVD players (about $250, chinese units, ebay) 9/15/12
13. installed OE european light switch (S8, part # 61316909776, this one has no LED for adaptive lights and has knurled knob for manual lights adjustment, neither interfere with normal operation of the adaptive xenon lights) 9/15/12
14. flushed engine with LiquiMoly Engine Flush ($18.87 a 500ml bottle, http://www.ebay.com/itm/151034751679?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1497.l2649#ht_2335wt_1692), added Auto-RX to Castrol 5W40 synthetic oil (auto-rx.com)
15. cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner ($8 CRC MAF cleaner, local auto parts store, probably will get replacement Bosch MAF, http://www.ebay.com/itm/130699855756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1438.l2649#ht_2507wt_1161)
16. installed OE projector fog lights (changed connectors from free-form fogs to projector fogs, http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/88122-front-fog-lights-ellipsoid-vs-free-form.html) 9/15/12
17. installed "blue" OE turn signal bulbs (part # 63217160897, bought in France over 10 years ago, http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=FB93&mospid=47748&btnr=63_0597&hg=63&fg= 20&hl=59) 9/15/12
18. installed K&N air filter 33-2149 ($34.15 from ebay) 5/14/13
19. cleaned throttle with throttle cleaner (local autoparts store, $3.50) 5/14/13
20. replaced coil pack ($32.50 OEM Bosch from ebay) part # 12 13 1 712 219 - 05/14/13
21. replaced outer right CV boot part # 31 60 7 507 402 ($20 OEM part on ebay, $100 labor) 05/21/13
22. replaced coolant tank part # 17 13 7 501 959 ($45 OE BMW part, ebay)


23. will replace fuel filter (OE unit, BMW of Minnetonka on eBay, $78.31 delivered)
24. painted styles 87 with PlastiDip, needs redone (http://www.xoutpost.com/933551-post6.html) 8/15/12


25. installed 2x power inverters under the front seats for rear passengers (Harbor Freight, $20 each with coupon, http://www.harborfreight.com/400-watt-continuous-800-watt-peak-power-inverter-66814.html)
26. installed AV input/output for rear center console (http://www.xoutpost.com/962142-post36.html)
27. installed rear fog lights (this is page 200 - http://www.xoutpost.com/943954-post200.html that has detailed info)
28. will install V1 (http://www.xoutpost.com/973111-post43.html)
29. will install LED AE light bulbs
30. will install police LED strobe lights ($36 Amazon.com, I have LE credentials, still, off-road and/or overseas use only)
31. will install 8 channel mobile DVR with GPS and 3G ($425 delivered, need testing before posting write-up) - as of 6/1/14 it is running and is functioning fine, still learning ropes
32. will install cameras for 8 channel DVR - as of 6/1/14 i have 4 cameras installed
33. will install roundvision system for reverse (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNIOhVO702g, http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/90346-topview-roundvision-birdseye-e53-added-video.html)
34. will install carputer with CIS-IBUS (about $800 complete setup, ac-services.eu) - no need for this to be installed, item 43 took care of this need.

35. installed remote AV selector for the AV input in main monitor (http://www.xoutpost.com/987166-post98.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/250913127985?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649[/URL]) http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...tml#post981354


36. will install front euro license plate holder ($23 OE unit, BMW of Fairfax, http://www.xoutpost.com/936204-post14.html)


37. built resistors for the trailer adapter http://www.xoutpost.com/940260-post2193.html (to disable rear PDC when a bike rack or a hitch tray are used)
38. will repair the dipping issue with the passenger (right) side external mirror - http://www.xoutpost.com/856728-post5.html
39. will install Priority First auto battery cut off switch - (http://www.ronstultz.com/knowledge/Documents/BMW%20X5/BMW%20X5%20-%20How%20to%20Install%20a%20Prioritystart.htm; http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/90543-wanted-share-new-me-helpful-dyi-page.html; http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/92983-battery-cutoff-switch.html)
40. installed "power distribution" in the trunk - it is a relay that operates from the "Wake-on-LAN" signal, when the power is turned off after 16 minutes of inactivity, and the relay operates direct power from the battery. That source can be used for various purposes in the car, such as feeding power to power inverters, to headrest DVD players, to the on-board DVR. (http://www.xoutpost.com/945373-post25.html)
41. installed an AUX input in order to use a BT interface to stream pandora from a "stupid phone" - http://www.xoutpost.com/electronics/mobile-electronics-forum/4850-installing-aux-input-x5.html . I made my own cable from the OE parts, such as 61136931929 connector, pins and a 3.5 stereo jack - see post http://www.xoutpost.com/961741-post33.html in this thread.
42. installed battery cut-off switch http://www.xoutpost.com/951035-post76.html
43. Got an HTC One X+ smart phone along with HTC Media Link HD in order to stream video to factory Nav screen (http://www.xoutpost.com/electronics/navigation-system/93923-streaming-video-phone-nav-screen.html#post953777). Here is a link to the functioning setup - http://www.xoutpost.com/electronics/navigation-system/95100-waze-factory-nav-screen.html. this eliminated the need for the item 34 on the list
update - the HTC phone was replaced under warranty, as its power system just did not hold up. Now I have an LG Optimus G Pro, that holds up the power rather well, but it has an MHL video out system, that i need to update my conversion setup from HTC setup i had to LG setup... why don't they just come up with one freaking standard and be done with it???!!!


44. outside mirrors to fold in on engine stop, fold out on ignition start, manual operation to be retained, as per this post - http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-fold-out.html

45. set up a solar battery system for a stand alone battery for all the things i have - this should eliminate the alternator whine... we'll see if this works out or not


Programming changes (http://www.xoutpost.com/914356-post39.html):

windows roll up on remote - KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG_FB - activ

windows continuous roll up/down when doors ajar - FH_TIPP_DISABLE_TUER_AUF - nicht_activ

fog lights on simultaneously with high beams - FL_UND_NSW_NICHT_GLEICHZ - nicht_activ
inner high beams are on with bi-xenon high beams - PWM_FL_BIX - wert_01
internal clock synchronized with GPS time beacon (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGakMdRIRw8) - GPS_UHR - activ
gong off on key left in ignition - ZUENDSCHLUESSEL_WARNUNG - nicht_activ
gong off on seat belt warning - GURTWARNUNG_GONG - nicht_activ

front turn signals are off as side markers - KEINE_PARKLICHT_FUNKT - activ; BLK_V_GED_ALS_PARKLICHT - nicht_activ

sunroof auto close on rain sensor activation - REGENSCHLIESSEN - activ; REGENSCHLIESSENTILT - activ
corona cold monitoring off for LED fitment in corona lights - KALTUEBERWACHUNG_SL_LV - nicht-activ; KALTUEBERWACHUNG_SL_RV - nicht-activ
doors autolock - VERRIEGELN_AUT_AB_X_KM/H - activ; VERRIEGELN-XKM/H_SENDER_1 - activ; VERRIEGELN-XKM/H_SENDER_2 - activ; VERRIEGELN-XKM/H_SENDER_3 - activ; VERRIEGELN-XKM/H_SENDER_4 - activ; VERRIEGELUNGSSCHWELLE - 16_KM/H
cold monitoring off for license plate lights - KENNZEICHENLI_PRUEF - nicht_melden; CC_MELDUNG_KZL - nicht_activ; KALTUEBERWACHUNG_KZL - nicht_activ
single push of remote to unlock all doors - ZV_SELECTIV - nicht_activ
steering wheel tilt upon entry - EINSTIEGSHILFE_HOEHE - activ
steering wheel extend upon entry - EINSTIEGSHILFE_LAENGE - activ
drivers seat into position upon entry - AUT_SITZVERSTELLUNG - activ
rear fog light activation for US spec's cars - NSL_AH_US_OPTION -nicht_aktiv

Subscribed! T, did you get a chance to see what programming lines in NCSExpert are available for the rear fog besides cold monitoring? Parcel sent your way tomorrow!

Wow
 

Geeeez and I thought I've been busy....

hey Ricky, thanks for the parcel... i will be looking out for it... i haven't looked at the NCS yet, just did the basic things to the car for now... kids should be going to grandparents for the summer break, so maybe, just maybe i will have some time to play with my toys, not with kids' games... lol...

forgot to mention in the list the blacked out valve stem caps - item # 5 in the list (Metal Car Tire Tyre Valve Stem Caps with Keychain Spanner for BMW Cars Black | eBay)

More info on the roundvision?

I was thinking of doing the pdc retrofit, however that seems even better (great for trailer pulling as well!)

here is the discussion on this roundvision system - http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ded-video.html

also, updated the first post with this link.

Such an impressive list, T.
What did you do with the OEM roundels? Wanna send them to me? :D My daughter X5 need them.

this should be a fun thread - subscribed!

the OE roundels had seen better days... hence, the search for the blacked out ones...


the rear roundel had to be secured with a double tape, as the OE roundel had that sticky foamy tape and the replacement did not.. I actually got a double sided "mending" tape from a sewing section of the local Wal-Mart - very interesting tape, i must say... i probably will use for some other things as well...

Included the link for the programming changes - http://www.xoutpost.com/914356-post39.html

I noticed you added Auto-RX in your oil, Just curious, what is your take on it?

can't say anything yet - there are 4000 mile cycles... i am coming up to 2000 mile mark to change just the filter, not the oil... one of these weekends i will do just that... then, in 2000 more miles - oil change and 1 more bottle of auto-rx... hopefully it cleans up the sludge and is not a snake venom, so to say... lol...

keep us posted...

FYI on roundels. Some of them are better fitment than others...

The ones I bought a couple years back were perfect.
Ordered another set on fleabay - fitment was way off. Sent it back to the seller, he told me he would refund. Never got it after numerous attempts to contact. Ended up disputing and getting resolution.

I like the ones that are plastic and fit like the OEM ones.

Sadly, those were the ones I ordered and it was a MM too big.
For the hood and such, I would just go OEM and sticker it.

modified a trailer adapter to use with cargo tray and bicycle rack.

37. built resistors for the trailer adapter http://www.xoutpost.com/940260-post2193.html (to disable rear PDC when a bike rack or a hitch tray are used)

How long did it take you to do 1-24?

i have had the car since June 10 of 2012 - tomorrow is "anniversary" for me having it... of course i did not spend a year doing it all non-stop, but it was within this year time-frame...

Happy anniversary!

Kinda like remodeling---when one list is done another one is started. I've had mine since birth. I started mods then and still have a list. I hope that will always be the case.

added item 39 to the list on the first page

39. will install Priority First auto battery cut off switch - (http://www.ronstultz.com/knowledge/Documents/BMW%20X5/BMW%20X5%20-%20How%20to%20Install%20a%20Prioritystart.htm; http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/90543-wanted-share-new-me-helpful-dyi-page.html; http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/92983-battery-cutoff-switch.html)

finished the rear fogs as per this thread -
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-complete.html, the actual set up is closer to the end of the thread - once RickyBobby comes with a write-up, i will link to it.

T,

I posted a write up in the most current page, can you link my most recent post on that thread?

I thought it was relevant since much of our install referenced the first page of the original write up, perhaps I can get the OP of the original write up to link our install on his page?

(i.e. If you do not have a Trailer kit on your car please go to page XXXX and follow the alternate write up from TerminatorX5 and Ricky Bobby)

linked on first page of this thread.


27. installed rear fog lights (this is page 200 - http://www.xoutpost.com/943954-post200.html that has detailed info)

installed "power distribution" in the trunk - it is a relay that operates from the "Wake-on-LAN" signal, when the power is turned off after 16 minutes of inactivity, and the relay operates direct power from the battery. That source can be used for various purposes in the car, such as feeding power to power inverters, to headrest DVD players, to the on-board DVR.

I don't have pics but will make them and update the info...

I used Panasonic ACNH3212 relay - it is capable of switching 30 A and the coil is using only 37.5 mA to activate the relay, thus putting little stress on the tapped in circuit... I got the relay from onlinecomponents.com
http://media.digikey.com/Photos/Pana...s/ACNH3212.JPG
Since I had found a circuit under the driver's seat that was live everytime the car is awake (same circuit on the passenger side is always live), I had an idea to use that circuit for power for other items that I was thinking about installing... However, I did not think that the circuit under the seat would be capable of the load, thus came an idea of using a relay, to switch the direct battery power using the circuit under the seat...

I had a large project box from Radio Shack, and a breadboard part # 276-150...
http://www.aces.edu/~parmega/efi/temp/wb/projbox.jpg http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...265164w345.jpg

Since I wanted to use the power inverters under the seats for the 110 VAC, I needed rather a heavier gauge wire, so ordered 20 ft of 10 gauge black and 20 ft red wire from ebay... those wires required heavier connectors to be used on the breadboard, so I used the green ones, 10 for about $8 shipped, from ebay as well.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/10-x-2-Pin-9-...+gQ~~60_12.JPG
to connect the 10 gauge wires to each other, i needed some heavy duty connectors, so i got Anderson connectors, they are gender-less and can take about 50A (maybe even more), 10 pieces about $27 delivered...


http://i.ebayimg.com/t/10-ANDERSON-C...hujsY!~~_3.JPG


For my particular application, I needed battery power to be delivered under the front seats. Since my project box turned out to be too big to fit under the seat, I decided to locate it in the trunk. because of this particular setup, I had to run the 10 gauge wires from the trunk area to the front seat, under the carpet to make the install as unintrusive as possible... at the same time, i needed a "wake-on-LAN" signal elivered to the project box, so I ran a thin, 1-pair cable from the driver's seat to the trunk. I terminated the "signal" wire with a set of connectors that I use for the small projects but will be upgrading those connectors to the OE connectors. 61131378106 - housing for male pins, 61131378108 - housing for female recepticles, 61131376193 - male pin, 61131376202 - female pin

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/245936_x600.jpg http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/17793_x600.jpg

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/24623_x600.jpg http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/27341_x600.jpg
I soldered the relay onto the breadboard, added the green connectors around the perimeter, and wired the relay, so it would take a "signal" from the circuit under the driver's seat, and will operate the contacts that were wired to several other green terminals. this way I have several terminals ready to be used if/when i need to use them for whatever new projects i might come up with. Once I snap a picture of the projeсt box with all those wires, I will post a the pic... there is nothing electronic in this set-up, pure electro-mechanical...

This power distribution box is a pre-requisite for my further installations of the power inverters and the all-car DVR

EDIT: some updated pics...

finished installing the power inverters for the 110 VAC under each seat, they turn off as the car goes to sleep and come on when the car is awaken. As written per the previous post with the power dirstibution box. Also connected the headrests DVD players to the power supply for the inverters, to turn off the headrest players off when car is asleep.

Item 25 from the first page.

added item

41. will install an AUX input in order to use a BT interface to stream pandora from a "stupid phone" - http://www.xoutpost.com/electronics/mobile-electronics-forum/4850-installing-aux-input-x5.html . I might consider making my own cable from the OE parts, such as 61136931929 connector, pins and a 3.5 stereo jack.

Looks like a fun project

installed battery cut-off switch - http://www.xoutpost.com/951035-post76.html

added item 43 to the list

43. will get an HTC smart phone along with HTC Media Link HD in order to stream video to factory Nav screen (http://www.xoutpost.com/electronics/navigation-system/93923-streaming-video-phone-nav-screen.html#post953777)

If you ever sell it the next owner will go nuts trying to figure out what is going on with lights, windows and doors and what all this extra hardware is all about.

well, he will probably be left with a lot of unknown wires with factory plugs (since i am using the factory plugs, my newfound fun - i have replaced my previous connectors with the OE connectors), because i will be removing the modules but not the wires... :)

41. Installed a home made AUX cable as I was too cheap to pay $60 for 3 wires...

parts

61136931929 - the 3-pin connector, about $1.75 from BMW of Fairfax

61130006664 - male pin, comes with about a foot of brown wire attached from a dealer, I use a Digi-Key part WM2515-ND

radio shack part 274-246, about $3, the 3.5 stereo input jack

one 300 KOhm resistor, 1/4 watt is good

two 20 nF capacitors

3 pieces of 20-24 gauge wire - i used black for ground (factory color is brown), red for right and white for left audio channels...

the resistor and the capacitors are the components that will tell the car that the AUX input should be activated -

for the sake of argument, say you want to build a 6ft long harness (you are not limited in the length, it can be longer, or shorter, depending on your particular needs). You take 6 feet of each wire and terminate one end of each wire with the 61130006664 - male pin, comes with about a foot of brown wire attached from a dealer, or a Digi-Key part WM2515-ND. this end of the three wires with terminated pins will be going to factory connector 61136931929, which will connect to the pre-wired connector behind the nav screen (if you do not have nav and/or tv options in your car, you don't need that connector and those terminals, you need different pins).

the other end of the black wire from the newly created harness needs to be terminated (crimped, soldered) onto the ground post of the 3.5mm jack.

the red and white wires need to be cut in two pieces ( the location of the cut is determined by the installer, based on the fact where he wishes to solder in the resistor and the capacitors.)

the ends of the newly cut wires are soldered onto the terminals of 300 kOhm resistor - now you will have previously terminated 3 wires (black wire is not cut, thus - the longest) with red and white wires joined with each other via a resistor.

then we take one of the capacitors and solder one end of the capacitor onto the end of the red wire, where the resistor is already soldered in. then we solder the other end of the capacitor to the remaining length of the red wire.

Then we are doing the same operation with the white wire, solder one end of the second capacitor to the other side of the resistor and solder the second leg of the capacitor to the remaining white wire.

then we solder the free end of the red wire to the right channel post of the 3.5 mm jack and the white wire - the left channel post.

This is an oversimplified explanation of the harness building for the AUX input and this explanation assumes that the installer has some hands on experience and knowledge in wire cutting, handling of electronic components, soldering and adheres to certain standards of worksmanship.

the wiring diagram is posted in the PDF file along with the factory retrofit parts and instructions. in verbal description, the resistor is used by the car's stereo system to detect the AUX input (load of 300 KOhm) and the capacitors are used to isolate that resistor from the audio equipment that will be plugged into the jack... very simple...

In my case, I run the wire to the central console, and it will be mounted in the tray that held the CDs ( i have the CD brackets removed for another project).

Here I will use a "Screw Cover Hinged", 1/4" Black, UPC code 0-08236-71424-1, to cover up the AUX jack. The cover makes it look somewhat factory, as it covers up the jack... $0.68 + tax at my local LOWE's.

You guys are killing me! Been trying to catch up with basic maintenance and I see you guys doing all sorts of cool mods that are tempting me to raid the maintenance fund!!

I know the feeling.

26. Installed the AV input for the factory TV module - the TV module itself is not good for any TV in the USA, but it has the factory rear camera input, and also it has the AV in and out...

Item 43 is in the working stage, still needs fine tuning...

http://www.xoutpost.com/electronics/...av-screen.html

Item 34 has been eliminated, as now there is no need for a full blown CarPC

Term,

This is not entirely true, LOL. TV is possible in the USA. I have it in mine. What is not possible is TV while moving.

Fariz, your precise wiring skills in making your "retrofit wiring" look exactly factory and OEM is an inspiration, with your factory switchs, clips, connectors, etc, phenomenal!

ArmyX5, I think its awesome to see TV on the factory Nav, but more awesome is the obligatory Good Morning America shot, LOL! Most people post screen shots of Pulp Fiction, Reservoir Dogs, etc haha!

Jay, thanks for the kind words... it is always fun to reverse engineer and build something that looks like it was made elsewhere - sometimes comes handy at my line of work... lol...

I looked over my pictures, and must admit - it is embarassing to have the car in such a filthy state... i need to clean it up and keep it clean... at least, before i take pics!!! lol...

Army, sure thing the Tv can be operational if you have a correct receiver - I really miss after midnight shows in Costa Rica, broadcast on channel 42 (IIRC!!!) - they were XXX shows from Spain, Italy and who knows where... lol... a female companion stumbled upon the broadcast as i was taking her home, and the soundtrack almost derailed me in my driving (I don't look at the video screen while driving, but that time i HAD to look!!!)... OMG, some things they show on open air in foreign countries!!!!

You need to get yourself TV-in-motion module, search on german ebay, there should be a few of them selling the modules... some modules are capable of channel changing from the steering wheel, but that is useless in the US where the only feasible channel is the AV input... try to find one that allows alternative audio source to play while the picture is displayed...

the work is still in progress but so far i like the results... next one will be to tackle the 8-camera DVR that I already wired up for power and video distribution but did not place cameras nor ran video cables yet...

Updated post #25 with some pictures - http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...tml#post945373

time to start wiring up the in-car mobile DVR... this is front facing camera, not connected yet...

next one will be the wiring harness for the DVR... then, connecting camera to DVR...

Started working on the V1 installation... so far only wired up remote power/audio module for V1. Removed the SOS button from its location in the overhead console, as I do not use the TCM module any longer, tucked the button into the overhead cavity without disconnecting the button. I stripped the audio module from its case and mounted it onto the blank cover for the microphone opening. since the newly created module could not fit into the SOS opening, I moved the "Passenger Air Bag" into the SOS opening, and installed the audio "module" into the "air bag" opening...

I think, it looks ok...

I will post more as it comes up...

The audio module mounting looks great. Should be rather functional there in terms if reach too. Curious where you plan to mount the V1 itself?

I have mine on the windshield up very close to mirror but it is still not ideal.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/06/e8arahev.jpg

Thank you for the inspiring thread here and sharing your progress. Thinking of copying your master power relay idea when I get to inverter.

J
2005 4.8is

I like this Term……very secretive….better than my Go Pro Cam

Here is the location of the remote display for the V1

The best location for the detector would be at the top of the mast... But, unfortunately, i could not find a decent mast that would fit nicely onto the E53... So, the search for best location is still on...

Are you close to needing a second battery?

a very valid point though... :thumbup:

the master fuse is rated at 200A and the alternator is rated at 170A... so, I would say that the car can sustain 100 Amps, with a peak at 150A and burning hot at 200A after which, it is dead... (so, we have 1200W sustained, about 2000W peaking)

per my very rough estimate, I have added 2 inverters rated at 200 W sustained each (400W each peak), couple headrest monitors at 10W sustained each, will have a running detector at 5W peak, a DVR at 50W (i need to check the specs again), and few cameras at 1-3W each...

all of those would add about 500W if all of them are running at full capacity, which is, to power two laptops, watch both monitors, record all 8 cameras, charge 4 cell phones (5W stock chargers for 3 of them, 40 W for mine)... if I will run all 4 seat heaters, AC full blast, steering wheel heater, honk the horn, have front, rear fogs, high and low beams on... At this point i probably will blow a fuse or two, since i will not have enough juice to run this freak show!!!:iagree::iagree:

a second battery could be in works... lol..

Here is the continuation for the V1...

part of this install calls for power for the V1. I need to draw power that is on with ignition, and the source of such power in the overhead console is the Garage Door Opener... However, I hate to use the taps, so I have built a Y-splitter using original BMW connectors and Digi-Key pins.

here is the list of parts:

61 13 8 377 072 - 3-pin socket housing - 1 piece
61 13 6 931 929 - 3-pin terminal housing -1 piece
A28327-ND - socket pins - 3 pins - Digi-Key
WM2515-ND - terminal pins - 3 pins - Digi-Key
61 13 1 378 106 - round 2-pin connector housing - 1 piece
61 13 1 378 108 - round 2-pin connector housing - 1 piece
61 13 1 376 193 - pin male w/o wire - 2 pieces
61 13 1 376 202 - pin female w/o wire - 2 pieces

Now, since I am not locked in a location within reach for V1 controls and visual, I need to figure out location for the actual unit. I can't do it while I am in VA, as detectors are illegal here, so it needs to wait until I am in PA... I will continue posting...

Certainly not a cut and patch in any color wire laying around. Nice work!

Thank you, Brian - I appreciate the kind words

this is the DVR that i was talking about. cost about $425 dellivered from China. It is supposed to do GPS (there is a GPS antenna), supposed to do 3g telemetrics (there is a SIM card holder and a phone antenna), can hold an SD card and a hard drive...

the connector leads that were included were "aviation" type, 4-prong (ground, +12 power, video and audio), but when I bought the mating "aviation" plugs, they turned out to be of a different size... I gave up looking looking for those connectors, and built my own harness using the OE connectors.

This thing is not installed as of yet but I have power already wired up, the harness is built.. there is still a lot of work to do - wiring at least couple of cameras to get started, wire up the monitor to the main car's monitor...

I will keep this thread updated as I progress...

I'm sure you didn't go through all this trouble if you don't have to but... Is there any way to install all this in the trunk and leave the dash alone?

of course there is... the pre-wired connector that is lurking behind the monitor is wired directly to the BM53/54 radio in the trunk, so you would need to locate those pins in the big, square connector that houses three smaller individual connectors, remove those pins and install your pins with your cable going wherever you wish it to go... it is just much simpler to use factory pre-wiring instead of your own...

however, if you do not have BM53/54 and the navigation, that means that you have the business radio in the dash with all the pins behind the dash - so, you still would have to mess with the front dash...

I updated the post that has the item 41 to include the Digi-Key pin numbers and the factory AUX retrofit instructions in PDF (post 33 of this thread)

Well now, wouldn't you know it... I don't have navigation. So it's plan x for me. Thanks, and good luck with your project.

the PDF file in post 33 has the instructions for your setup too, with the pin numbers... you just save on the factory connector (if building your own cable), as you can use bare pins in existing connector...

in the back of the radio is a big connector that has three individual connectors built in. one of those 3 connectors is black and has 12 pins...

assuming that you have factory harness 65 12 0 153 502 with a 12-pin black plug hanging with 3 wires in it, you will pull the wires with pins from the harness and snap them into existing 12-pin black plug - brown/white (ground) into slot 10, yellow/white (left channel) into slot 3 and blue/white (right channel) into slot 1. if, somehow, your factory radio is missing the black plug altogether, and you have just a blue and white plugs, then you just snap in the black plug that came with the harness, into available slot inside the big connector, that's it...

I have never enjoyed taking apart a dash - or parts thereof. I'd rather do a majoy engine job than to get into those plastics that break and then never fit back together properly (my experience with older cars.)

pulling radio is simpler than taking the whole dash apart... you remove the trim around the radio (shroud/bezel), unscrew some screws... pull the radio, do your connections... put the things back... voila... shroud is press-fitted with snaps, radio is screwed in...

but, if you do not feel that it is something you want to do, just move onto next project - it's just a car, and a hobby, not like your life depends on an AUX input... :D

here is a basic outline of the smart phone integration into the BMW audio/visual system... Items with yellow highlighter are not BMW items.

item 43 on the first page of this thread.

MimicsX2 device is untested and therefore should NOT be considered as being endorsed. a fellow on mp3car.com will do the updated testing and I will update this info as it becomes available.

Great thread btw :popcorn:

For me this would be the same as an Indiana Jones map, highlighting the points where I can potentially kill my X.

I tip my hat to your DIY kung-fu. It is strong.

I thank you

hehehehe...

X marks the spot!!!

Term, you are freaking amazing! id vote for you to be president anyday

"inner high beams are on with bi-xenon high beams - PWM_FL_BIX - wert_01"

Could you confirm thats the name!??? i cant find it nor does the search do anything in both ncsdummy nor the bmw coding tool. same goes for gps uhr... what sp daten files are you using? could it be that imjust missing the latest files??

Pezho, thank you for the vote of confidence... lol...

you guys know, i am not a natural born US citizen, so you guys are safe...
but, if i were to run for the president, my platform would be:

on immigration - if you did not clear consular officer and crossed the border legally, you are a criminal, as you broke the very first law upon your entry into the country...
official language in this country - ENGLISH. you are welcome to speak, read and write in whatever you wish, but any paperwork with any government agency to be done in english

if you cross the border illegally, we will shoot without additional warning.

we have serious issues at home and therefore all foreign aid to be frozen until further notice...

and there are many other unpopular things that i can think of... lol


but hey, this is not a LOUNGE forum, so we should not pollute the thread, right??

Artem, i did not load any sp-daten files - i read the data from the modules and then just modified it... the FL is high beams... do a search in your LCM module's file to see what comes up under FL string, post everything you find here or a separate thread... my car is 2006 (build in 2005) so my LCM might be slightly different...


same goes for the Nav - the GPS clock sync is there - i just read the module and modified the line and wrote it back to the module...

If only the indians could have killed all those intruders who trespassed on their property/land and suddenly claim it as their own. Thieves and criminals should be treated equally, no matter which century...one to the dome.

Do you red and modify through just ncsexpert? because i use ncsdummy it shows translations and everything, i search for the FL and nothing shows up. no results at all. maybe you are right about yours being newer though...

i use NCS, pull the file from a module, load it in to BMW coding tool, modify the lines that I want to, fire up the NSC again, load the newly created file into the module...

you MUST have something in LCM with FL - FL is high beams and you sure have high beams in your car... when you search for the FL in the Coding Tool, search for ANY occurrence... you should have several instances of FL...

FL - HIGH BEAMS (L-LEFT; R-RIGHT)
NSW - FRONT FOG LIGHTS (L-LEFT; R-RIGHT)
AL - LOW BEAMS (L-LEFT; R-RIGHT)
BL - BRAKE LIGHTS (L-LEFT; R-RIGHT; M-MIDDLE)
BLK - TURN SIGNALS (LH-REAR LEFT; LV-FRONT LEFT; LZ-SIDE LEFT; RH-REAR RIGHT; RV-FRONT RIGHT; RZ-SIDE RIGHT)
KZL - LICENSE PLATE LIGHTS
NSL - REAR FOG LIGHTS (L-LEFT; R-RIGHT)
RFS - REVERSING LIGHTS (L-LEFT; R-RIGHT)
SL - PARKING LIGHTS (H-REAR; V-FRONT; LH-REAR LEFT; LHI-REAR LEFT; LV-FRONT LEFT; RH-REAR RIGHT; RHI-REAR RIGHT; RV-FRONT
RIGHT)

I do exactrly all of that! and whoa ok i loaded the trc file from yesteday tried looking for it again and i found th PWM_FL_BIX set at value 2... ok and now i find GPS UHR.. WTF?? i swear it wasnt there yesterday..

Will hook up laptop to car again and load new trc file and try again later..

UPDATE: so i go to the car.. Do the ncsreading select LCM, it says LCM.c20 or so before i press button to do the reading codieron lessen. when i do that it changes to LCMc.21... doesnt really matter right cause ive coded everything else and it worked...

Open up Coding tool.. load trace and do the serach both for gps and BIX and NOTHING, no results!??? whats going on?

this feels like a "twilight zone"!!!!

if you saw it at one instance that you have the FL and UHR codes, that means they are somewhere there, otherwise - why would you see them?... since you don't see them now, you might have done something slightly different this time...

are you reading ALL modules at once?

try to read one module at a time and see what you have... while i am not sure that the GPS clock is in the NAV module, the highbeams must be in the LCM...

Do it again

I read just the LCM and both those options are supposed to be in there. ill keep trying.. hopefully i dont mess something up and the airbag brows my laptop into my face...

maybe ill make a video of my problem

Video of airbag in your face???

This is what I call entertainment!!!


:popcorn:

All jokes aside, keep us posted..

44. outside mirrors to fold in on engine stop, fold out on ignition start, manual operation to be retained, as per this post - Xoutpost.com - powered by BMW X-sav Enthusiasts!

thanks to DPBAYLY for research and creation of the working system

That's a lot of folding and unfolding. Don't you think you'll wear out the motors and the henge/spring?

that is true... i did not think about the wear and tear, but come to think about it, it boils down to personal preference... I put over 30K miles on the car a year, and it is not a museum piece, so this will go with the rest of wear and tear i am putting on this beast... i worry more about the drivetrain than some mirror pieces...

On the other hand, for somebody who is driving a car moderately, this mod might not be a good idea...
So, you are right, before doing this mod, one should take into consideration that the mirrors will be folding/unfolding everytime you start/stop engine...

the way i was thinking doing it, instead of tying it up to the ignition hot lead, i would tie to my power-on-LAN power, so the mirrors will fold only when the car goes to sleep - thus, short stops, like filling gas, or running into shop for a cup of coffee or a doughnut should not fold the mirrors... this is just a thought...

Term. on Post #36 you show the use of the OEM TV button.

I was interested in using this OE button to control the VOD function for my upcoming video on nav integration mod.

I would like to mount it in the front console button area by the seat heater buttons. Are you aware if this is possible? it the TV button the same size as the others from the up front area?

I/m also interested in the P/N's for the harness or molex plug into the tv switch and the pin assignments?

Thanks!

The TV button, when pressed, selects a next available channel in the channel line-up... it does so sequentially, you press the button and it jumps to next avaialble channel... in absence of any channels, the only choice that you have is the AV input. The TV button just grounds the pin 9 of the white plug of the TV module to do so, no complicated electronics involved...

the TV Switch (S228) can not be incorporated into the central console Switching Centre (A169), and the A169 is an integral unit, with different part numbers for different options in the car. The S228 will however just snap into the one of the 4 slots in the rear of the center console - there are 4 slots, 2 for rear seat heaters, one for the AV module and one for the TV module...

you can rig up the TV switch up at the front but i am not sure if it will look good or OE...

TV switch - 61 31 8 368 345
connector - 61 13 8 373 666
shroud for connector - 61 13 8 373 662

AV module - 61 31 8 368 346
connector - 61 13 6 909 008


i use pins from Digi-Key, part # A28327-ND,
you can use OE - 61130005197 or 61130006663 - both parts come with pre-crimped wires.

TV switch pinout

pin 2 - goes to pin 5 on connector X322 from the radio
pin 6 - goes to pin 9 on connector X18806 on TV module

pin 4 - ground
pin 5 - ground


pinout for the connector x18806, white plug on the TV module

pin 13 - reverse camera (+)
pin 14 - reverse camera (-)

pin 1 - audio out
pin 2 - TV out
pin 10 - ground
pin 4 - audio in
pin 11 - ground
pin 6 - TV in
pin 5 - ground
pin 15 - ground
pin 9 - to pin 6 of TV search button

Item 35 from the list - the AV selector for the various audio/visual sources to play on the nav headunit.

initially I was going to use a 3 source selector with wired remote buttons, but I could not fit the remote anywhere to make it look decent...

so, I went for this unit:

4 Port 4x1 RCA Composite Video Audio Manual Control Selector Switch Switcher Way | eBay

it is a black box with 4 inputs and one output.

Since most of my AV wiring is happening in the center console, I decided to fit the AV selector in there... I removed the box that held the CDs, opened up the cover of the selector, ground a little bit the edges of the selector's box, and fitted the open selector into the gutted CD box.

The only modification to the CD box is a drilled hole to allow passage of the AV cables into the cavity (not on the pictures yet, I will be doing it tomorrow). The hole does not affect the factory designed operation of the CD box, and the entire set up can be reversed back to the original, factory specs without any sacrifice or any seriously modified parts...

On these pictures the box is not fully snapped into the storage bin yet, as I need to re-install the spring that pushes out the CD "cassette" - since the front fascia of the selector was a bit too narrow, it did not fill the available opening of the CD box, so reinstalled one of the CD cassettes, and it still did not cover the gap that can be seen there - i will be thinking about this gap and what i can use to cover it up...

I will be drilling a hole for the AUX input, into the metal fascia of the AV input, this way I will not put any hole onto the plastic of the car and will have an option to re-route the AUX in the future, if I care to do so...

Once I snap the wires together and put the storage bin into the central console, drill a hole and install AUX, I will update this post...

to skip some of the reading, here is the link to finished product - http://www.xoutpost.com/987166-post98.html

Term,

That is pretty neat, :thumbup: It is better that what I have been using. I am going to order me one. Now, did you had to make the hole in the console and is there enough room there?

This is the what I am using, but with a remote.

Refresh my memory, what nav unit do you have? Does this switch replace the source selection on the radio or is it in addition to?

I have a factory navigation, not affected by this AV selector. The AV selector is obviously for 4 inputs, so one of the inputs will be used for phone screen to go to main screen, the other input will be used for the in-car DVR (I am working on that one), the remaining two inputs can be used for anything else... Since I have headrest DVDs, I was thinking running them into the selector...

I just added the AUX input to the front panel of the selector...

there are no extra holes anywhere in the console, but I am in the process of drilling a hole in the CD holder box, that houses the selector - the hole will be at the bottom, in the center, thus it will clear the springs inside the box, and at the same time, once the box returned to original state, the hole will be consealed by the CD cartridges...

Today was a little bit of sunshine, so i spent couple of hours making a mock up of how the thing would look like ( i still need to adjust the length of the cables, properly route them, general clean up) and here are some pictures...

On the first picture, the "Wire Craken" consists of 4 hardwired 5V miniUSB and microUSB power supplies and the BT receiver, ibolt unit made for HTC wired video out gadget (I went with wired, as OE wireless HTC unit was glitching) and HDMI-to-RCA converter.

on the 2nd picture you see the power supplies up-close

on the 3rd picture are the AV components up-close

on the 4th picture is the close-up of the 12V wires going to the power supplies

then you see the spilled guts of the setup,

and there is the setup put together (but not zipped up, as I am not finished with it).

on the last picture, I have the smart phone connected to the video out cable and the image is on the main nav screen

I also have a video that i will upload and post a link...

I uploaded a 7 1/2 minute long boring video of me showcasing the setup in operation... if you care to spend 10 minutes of your time, you can watch it... I find my moviemaking abilities less than adequate... lol...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSQhvhU-PhM

Watched the video. Amazing setup!

Beautiful setup Term!

Thanks for all the info on the part numbers and pin outs.

I'm finishing the planning stages on my A/V integration and should start ordering parts soon. Your inspiration, information and impeccable documentation has been very helpful. Thank you very much!

Very cool!

I am glad i could share the ideas... This quest for using a smart phone as "brain" for the car's infotainment system was sparked by a question of a member of HackiBus on yahoo groups from the Middle East... He asked if there is a way to increase the resolution for the stock LCD panel used in the factory Navigation/TV systems in the iBus BMWs... I was not aware of anything of that nature but in the conversation he mentioned his set up and this is what I have done with the AV here... Well, I added the DVR and the switch, but that is just to suit my specific needs...

In my further search on the web, and especially on the russian and some euro forums, I have found a write-up by a fellow in Sweden who had replaced the stock LCD panel (made by Sharp, resolution 400x240) with a higher resolution LCD panel (also made by Sharp, resolution 800x480).

I have read his write-up several times, and I will be honest - I still did not understand the electrical connections, but I am sure it will done on me over time, as I am not ready to replace the LCD yet... But, it seems that eventually, I might take that road... this is not going on my list on the first page of this thread as of yet - but I was already bitten by this mod bug!!!

here is the link to that fellow in Sweden:

High Resolution LCD

In this thread and in some other threads it was mentioned that an iLive Bluetooth adapter was used for the Pandora streaming. I started with the iLive unit and I would say, it performs absolutely fine... However, for my setup I was looking for a BT adapter that would come on when an external power is applied to the adapter, without me pushing a "power" button to turn it on... The iLive unit had a momentary push button switch which needs to be pushed to turn it on... I even tried to "hotwire" the switch by soldering a bypass lead, but it did not help - the adapter still needed to be turned on after an overnight parking, which would make it an external piece, dangling in the car...

So, I started looking for a same type of an adapter but with a slide or a toggle power switch, so I could leave it "on" and have the adapter come on when external power is applied...

I found one here, 3 5mm Wireless Bluetooth Receiver Audio Music for iPod iPhone MP3 MP4 Boutique | eBay, and here is a picture of the unit - it is under $8 delivered, it is obviously a Chinese-made piece of cr..p, but iLive is made at the same place... this unit does what i wanted it to do - when the slide switch is in the on position, the unit comes on when the car is awake, thus I could hide this adapter out of sight and deal strictly with the 3.5mm connector... with time, I will hardwire the 3.5mm output from the adapter into the AUX input of the car, thus eliminating the danglilng 3.5mm wire...

corrected the link for the High Resolution LCD panel in the post #94 - it was leading to a wrong website, now it goes to that fellow in Sweden

High Resolution LCD

Just found out why the iBolt cradle did not allow the data from the phone to pass to the iBolt MHL converter, while the iBolt people kept telling me that both iBolt units are compatible with each other...

The circuit board inside the cradle has a microUSB jack that does not have the three middle data pins (only two are real serial data) wired to anything!!! All they had to do, just "draw" a pass-through lines to the microUSB plug!!!

The set up works fine with the phone just laying on the seat or in the ashtray... but I want it sitting nicely in the cradle...

Grrr... off to micro-soldering the "hair" wires... That will be fun!!

Here is the item 35 from the main list on the first page of this thread.

Selection one puts the picture out from the Android phone, with all the android apps available, such as Waze, music apps, such as TuneIn, iHeart Radio, email, SMS, SlingPlayer - full list of Android apps is available on the GooglePlay...

Selection two puts the picture from the left headrest onto the main screen

Selection three puts the picture from the right headrest onto the main screen

Selection four puts the picture from onboard mobile DVR, which has two cameras wired as of moment of this writing...

Audio for the Android comes via BT connection in Stereo (HTC puts out BEATS, when connected to a BT unit), and the BT unit is "buried" under the center console bin and audio output wire is plugged into the AUX input that is next to selection four.

Audio for the left and right headrests comes via FM modulation built-in transmitters in the headrests directly

There is no audio at the moment for the DVR but will be introduced at a later date...

The "loose" wires that are coiled - 2 microUSB connectors for the 3A power supplies buried underneath, to charge up cell phones or tablets (I will dress those wires later) and 1 microUSB cable for the MHL video connector for the android, which I am still working on, to modify the pinout...

here is a link to the video for the on-board DVR:

left video shows how the DVR appears in the car, taped by the cellphone

two videos on the right are the clips from the DVR - I reduced the bitstream, to make files smaller. the top right video should be viewed as an image in rearview mirror, the bottom right image is the front view. the images are not sync'd but show roughly same stretch of the road.

let me know if the video can be played or not...

mobile video from two cameras and a separate view - Youtube Multiplier

VERY impressive!

this one serves no practical purpose and is just an exercise in laying wires...

I realized i watched that AV video twice now haha, it seemed very familiar before i realized it too late.


ANyway.. Before you sell your car please let me know!!

item 44 on the first page

started some prep work for the mirror fold-in on engine shut-off...

I don't really like doing splicing unless i absolutely have no other choice, so I have built a Y-splitter for the door modules... So, with this splitters in place, I will have to bring in the power feed from the relay bank, that was already prepared earlier... On the relay bank, the black is ground, red is +12VDC, green is power-on-LAN (in original design, that wire would be the ignition voltage). Two pins on the central relay that are NOT soldered yet are the ones that will provide the voltage to the mirrors...

still, the hard part is to figure out the transfer of wires from the door to the main body of the car - it turns out that the boot connecting the door to the car does not have wires simply traversing from the door to the car (as in the boots in the trunk lid) - there is a connector, I think it is listed as a 30-pin connector, with not all of the pins utilized, some pin locations have no pins, so I might be able to pin them

As always, very impressive!

After I installed the AUX, and did my BT setup for the streaming music, the system developed alternator whine. I spent little time troubleshooting the problem, with so many things happening at the same time, but was able to determine that the whine was not induced in the audio cables running next to power cables, but rather was introduced directly from the power supplies that operated the BT dongle and the phone - as I would connect a "clean" power source, not part of the car, the whine was totally gone...

I tried to filter the whine, even built a custom filter but the amplitude was attenuated only a little bit, not enough to consider a success...

after digging a bit deeper, I found two (!) cold solder joints that disconnected on me and the setup lost proper grounding - one was in the ground wire itself, and the other one was in the right channel...

Once those two cold solder spots were fixed, there is no more whine...

On to something next on the list...

:)

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...620b78ce5d.jpg

Wow!!!

No wonder, airlines don't like lithium batteries, this one looks like it's pregnant!!!

Best way is to snap the battery completely off and remove it fron the device, having it powered by the power supply/ adapter. The BT dongle works fine without the battery, with a 5V supply.
I am not using this particular dongle in the car (i have dongle with slide power switch for the car), but was using this one at home until the plastic shell popped open...

Your thread is always an inspiration for this particular X5 owner Term. Thanks for posting you project progressions. I need to start a similar thread for mine as I usually do this sort of thing for all my cars as a nice reference for to what has been done... yeah my memory sucks.

Anyway, that was a long winded way of saying thanks.