Was it smart to walk??
 

Went to go see 2 4.6is in Jersey yesterday.

Went to go see this one on route 22
2002 Bmw X5 4.6is For Sale In Hillside NJ - ASH Auto Sales

Lots of cosmetic problems. I mean cheap/easy fixes if everything else was ok. The oil pan was full of oil it looked like. On start up I sworn I heard a grinding noise.

Service record though is what kept me going for it. It was serviced at paul miller then sold to auction and then I'm assuming just went straight to this dealer.
The guy wasn't moving from 12,500. What was funny to was that I thought cruise control wasn't working since on my e92 the bottom stalk is for cruise control. After pointing this out and looking like an ass the guy said it was a button on the wheel to activate it. What I did find out though is that the bottom stalk is for retracting and moving around the steering wheel. Guess that didn't work though. Guy didn't appreciate that.

There was another one I checked out at a suzuki dealer. Listed it for 9,995.
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...nal&listType=1
Car looked much better then the black one. Bmw roundels definitely needed to be replaced. Cheap fix. Opening the hood though looked like there was dry oil all over the place, there was a rag inside a corner by the fender. Plastic cover was off. Inside of the car was clean though.

Cluster had the pixel problem, mirrors did not fold in. They popped out after trying to retract. The rear lift gate I'm assuming the bottom portion is power, and both buttons did not let it release down?

After driving it for 10 minutes I heard a weird sound. Couldn't have been a wheel bearing since it went away but it was there for a good 10-20 min. (Was a very long test drive since memorial day parade closed off the roads back to the dealership :cool: ) Only sound that worried me. Transmission shifted smooth. Power delivery was smooth as well no hiccups.

Dealer was definitely not willing to settle though.

They were asking 9,995 + tax + DMV + document fees + PDI check. + a 695 dealer fee :yawn:

In the end they were looking at 12,500.

vehicle had 115,000 miles. I didn't even negotiate vehicle price..just fees since I was going to finance through them.

PDI check was 1895, Document fees were 295. I asked to waive the dealerfee and they hit me with 11595. I asked remove the PDI check i'll take it as is and they got themselves a deal. 9700 out the door. Apparently thats to low. They said they can reduce it to 495. After stating 495 for what since there not going to be servicing the car. They said its for buffing and washing the car LOL :rofl:.

So walking out the manager came after me (Someone I wasn't even dealing with since the salemans was helping me and the General Manager that didn't want to negotiate) and told me they own the car for 9,995. I offered them 10,500 as a final offer. (One of there offers to me with 495 buffering fee LOL, was 10,844). 10,500 seems reasonable, or was that to much of pushing it?

As much as I want this truck I don't want a "Want" to tear me up since the number they were asking for was close to my final number.

Would you guys/ladies walk to? (Sorry for wall of text)

I don't think you were pushing it that bad I'd say to them I'll take the car as is no washing no buffing take that 495 off the price and just add taxes to the car price plus your PDI.

The black one is nice looking but you're right it sounded like many things were broken. Wonder what the PPI of the silver one will come back with?

Umm...you kinda lost me on this one...I'm not sure what you meant by "both buttons".

The X5 has a lift gate (the upper portion) and a tail gate (the lower portion). The liftgate is opened first (you can use interior button or open from outside if car is unlocked)...once liftgate is opened, you can then open the tailgate & lower it (manually). BTW, both sections require some manual assistance to open fully.

The upper liftgate is released by pressing the pressure strip that is below the trim that is above the rear license plate (or the button inside the cabin):


And the lower tailgate is release by pressing the pressure strip on the top right side (see far right column in pic from owners manual below):

Ok i didn't even see that. On the two corners by the plastic on top of the rear tail gate there are arrow buttons. I assumed those were for the tail gate to lower and raise and the gate.

Ahhhh...now I know what you're talking about. You were looking at the buttons that can adjust the rear seat back's position...it can give you a little bit more cargo room if a previous rear passenger has adjusted the rear seat all the way back.

It's a neat little feature...not all that affective...but it can give you a few inches of cargo space around the top portion of the rear seat back...the bottom of the seat back is static (stays in the same place) so again, it's a neat little "ooh, look what I can do" feature...but nothing to write home to momma about. :D

BTW, these are redundant buttons...you have the two switches (left/right side) just above the rear tailgate...and there are switches for the rear seat passenger...the location varies depending on if you have the panoramic sunroof or not. I have the pano sunroof, so the redundant electric rear seat buttons are on the C-pillar.

I would want to see the service history or get it completely checked over prior to purchase. At 115,000, there are several fairly major maintenance items that usually are addressed by now. If not, they likely will become a necessity before long.

As to whether I would walk. It depends. I have a 2002 4.6. It has been many years since I have kept a daily driver for more than 3 years. I still can't imagine selling it. If that is the color you want and the X you want, price is at least second priority. First priority, because it was the high performance model is to find out how it was used, if it was abused and how well it was maintained. If you haven't checked prices for similar 4.6s in your region that will tell you how well it is priced.

Things that Will Fail and common Problems:

*ABS/DSC Module.... If it hasen't failed yet, it's only a matter of time.

*FSR, or "final stage resistor."

*Waterpump and hoses.

*Recovery tank for Antifreeze. (Check this tank for cracks while there)

*Front CV Boots. (Check this while there)

*Rear CV Boots..... Not as common as front. (Check this while there)

*Alternator, Start Vehicle and watch for randomly pulsating cabin light.

*The engine will most likely have the VANOS "knock" on start up. This will scare the crap out of you when you start it in the morning. It sounds like rod knock. Check into "Vanos knock" before you purchase these X5's!!

*Look for oil leaks indicated by drips on the underpan.

*Check the Rain sensing wipers.

*Look for pixels missing on the cluster and radio display.

*Check the suspension "air bags" for cracking.

*Check the rear Diff for oil spray (Leaky seals) on the under carrage and exhaust.


*This is a small list of things to look for, and do research on before buying these X5's. Pay for a complete scan, look for all codes... Engine codes, Body codes, Transmission and drivetrain codes....so on. If all checks out, Id say your doing "OK"

For what it is worth.....sounds like too much money for either of these...and IMHO I have a 2006 3.0, and I find that it has more than adequate power, (unless you intend to pull a big trailer) and I think the 6's are far cheaper to maintain and a lot less trouble.
There are a lot of X5 for sale, find one that doesn't already look like a rat.
Also, save yourself a lot of fees and find one privately, look for one that has been owned privately for a few years...(not a shoddy dealer selling out of his house)
I think a "nice" 02 should be around $10,000

They say everything is bigger in Texas. X problems must be fewer. I have some pixels missing but that is all I have experienced on the list. I have redone the front and rear suspension but mostly because I wanted better handling. I have replaced the battery. I have gone through many sets of tires. I have replaced the plugs and changed the oil every 4000 miles. I just passed 108,000. I am going to have nightmares of a Sumani of BMW parts and dollars signs sweeping me away.

Enough power? I didn't know there was ever enough power.

It is a negotiation. Key to a negotiation is to establish your walk-away price and stick to it. As long as you do that there is no reason for buyer's remorse or a discussion of whether you got a good deal or paid too much. You will own what you wanted at the price you were willing to pay so have fun and enjoy it!

108.

How long do you plan to tempt fate until you do the timing guides..

I did mine a hair past 100. Nothing broken, but in removing so, the plastic was brittle..

Have been thinking about that. I know I need to do that soon so I don't grenade the engine. I have been procrastinating--- not good in any case but especially concerning guides.

I will say this.....and this is subjective.
I have had at least 4, maybe 5 drain bolt refills leading up to 100k.
At my 100K maint, I did a full flush with the cooler. Tranny feels much smoother than ever. No more 2-1 clunk. Can't explain it...

The only way to beat a car sale man at the game is to walk. How often do you buy a car, every three years, every five years? These guys are selling cars EVERY Day. They know how to play the game. They start High and try to sell High. That's why I always buy my car from private sellers. They are more willing to negotiate (Except the ones that think their 10 years old BMW is worth more because it's a BMW) and you don't get hit with all those ridiculous fees, not counting the sale tax.

I just LOVE the dealer fee which now ranges to $799, and the loan acquisition fee of about $600 (if you don't pay cash) so with all that and the first months payment.....NOTHING DOWN = OVER $2000 BUT IT'S NOT A DOWN PAYMENT...
Wonder why they are call STEALERS?
Maybe just LYING SCUM WILL SUFICE

IMO, with the 4.6, and with most BMWs, maintenance history is everything. I would certainly try to find a truck with the big things replaced: transmission, cooling system, and chain guides.

Buy private party from an enthusiast. Spend a little more at the beginning for a nice example. I don't think the 4.6 is selling very well right now. Gas prices, and plenty of "regular" X5s on the market are to blame. I would think owners needing to get out of their 4.6is' are willing to deal.

So I called back just to see if I can avoid this back and forth game. Final offer of 10,800 (I know I was at 10,500 but there lowest number for me was 10,844) I figured that would definitely be a deal breaker there for them and me but after dealing with the manager apparently someone put a "deposit" down. I look at it as a sign to keep looking.

I was going to play the waiting game for them to call me but I rather not have it in back of my head and have a decision right now on it.

The use of this truck would be for road trips, 24/7 winter vehicle, and to haul a couple big items.

I would get this one: 2003 BMW X5 (4.6) ***ATL'S LUXURY WAREHOUSE**FLEXIBLE FINANCING**64K

Since your usage list does not mention performance, I suggest you consider a 4.4. Because the 4.6 rims require wide tires it is not going to be very good in snow. The 4.4 is much more available and should meet your hauling needs. If it doesn't you add a few mods that will increase the torque. You are much more likely to find an X that is lower miles and has a complete maintenance history---perhaps a 1 owner driven back and forth to the store by a little old lady.

epdarks suggestion brings up a another point. If you really want a 4.6 I would look country wide. Shipping when you wait for a load coming your way is not THAT expensive and you can have someone locally do a thorough check of the vehicle. You could also focus on the sunbelt and find an X that has never gone through a winter of treated roads.

Wow Estoril over Imola leather, with Titan trim, I'm in love. Wonder how much they want for it (probably asking 19k lol)

Yeah, I was thinking $18k might be a fair number on it, considering only 64k miles.

Estoril over Imola :wow:

Why does everyone love estoril blue so much???

Why does everyone love Estoril blue except for you? :D


ESTORIL = HOT SEX COLOR

Now that dar is funny, I don't care what ya say

Because, as much as I love the look of Imola Red...it just doesn't suit my personality and I'd feel uncomfortable owning a vehicle that eye-catching. E/Blue is also eye-catching but just a tad not so out there...so it would be my choice between these two colors for the "is".

You need a new personality. :nanana:

:D

I searched quite a while before finding my cpo 2005 Imola red X5. It matches my wife's 2002 Imola red M3. My 2011 M3 didn't come in Imola red, but the Melbourne red was close enough that it doesn't look out of place.

As for the 6-cylinder advocate, I just can't do it since they didn't offer the X5 with an S54. I have a minimum requirement of 300hp per car in the garage. :thumbup:

OP -- these things take some care and feeding, so get the best example that you can afford. Mine was CPO and I had the full maintenance history printed for me so I knew what I was getting into prior to purchasing it.

I saw the silver one in Jersey this afternoon. Car is a little rough and needs a lot of TLC to get up to my standards. But I enjoy projects. That said, the clowns at this hell hole dealership were such rookies that I had to just walk out. Like the worst of the worst. They also had the car in their shop to change rotors and pads and filters. None of the parts they were using were oem. It's a shame when good cars end up in the wrong hands.