Battery Cutoff Switch
 

I don't do a lot of work on the X that necessitates having to disconnect the battery unlike my other cars. However it is a pain to do something so simple. So thinking ahead I decided to get one of these:

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/12-VOLT-HELLA...7.JPG~original

Im thinking its not bad for $30 - hella brand AND comes with a small harness. Im hoping the length is enough to lead out/through the trunk area so I can use it without taking the trunk cover.

Thoughts?

I need one of these!!! Been meaning to do one, jut have yet to get around to it....it's a huge pain to get at the battery since its buried under my air tank!

Please install it, take some pics and report back, stat!! ;)

Ps, what's the part number?

more info on this please ill take one as well

Got it from here - click

Its still on its way. I will make time get it on once i get it in

looks good and a good idea, indeed is back breaking work to get to the battery

Apparently I have one factory installed on my 8. a very very rare option for some reason. I'll have to check but it's on my build sheet.

Also curious if when you connect it will it have enough length to stick out from underneath the metal cap and past the spare tire. I figure even if it can get to the gap between wheel well and the tire, thats a good place for it to hide/reside.
Please keep us updated on how it sits there.

thats interesting - got a pic?



Im hoping it does. Of course if it doesn't I could just extend it. And in fact it would've been cheaper if I did the wires myself and get a regular non-wired switch. but I liked the novelty that it looks factory

It's always a good idea to disconnect the battery whenever you work under a vehicle. I remember about 10 yrs ago during Bullrun (coast to coast timed race), a participant put his Lamborghini Diablo on front jackstands, he was working underneath with the key on, jumped the starter circut with a tool, car jumped foward off the stand, crushed/ran over him and proceeded across the garage area into a Ferarri F40 and Gumpert Apollo. UGLY SITUATION!!!! A battery switch could have avoided the carnage.

z168, I'll look this weekend for it. I don't remember seeing it, but I just got the build sheet and the comment was I have one from factory. the register owner for the 8's said this was a very odd/rare thing to have on the car.

"This (referring to my car cb00168) and CB00169 were the only cars of the whole E31 production that had
a battery mains switch installed. Maybe others had it installed too only
the option S818 was never again in use."

This might help:

Unofficialbmw.com :: View topic - can someone explain an option I have?

818 option - installed temporarily and removed before delivery


http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q...y%20Switch.jpg

so... any US dealer will have a sh!tload of those laying somewhere in the back of the house??? what is the part number? maybe we can buy one for the car - that option is sure too much for an average person who never sees the battery compartment, but for us, who retrofit things all the times and connect/disconnect the batteries several times a year, the switch could be very nice thing to have...

z168, just checked my 8, no switch is still there :( Maybe I'll order two to have the factory switch again :)

it would be cool to have one - in my case, my car was shipped several times by the boat, and everytime the battery was ruined - even once, when it was disconnected...

is there an actual location within the car that is designated for that switch?

That's super cool. If you look closely, it actually looks like an OEM BMW part (see gray tag - BMWs have identical tags throughout their wiring harnesses). Perhaps this is some old stock that the seller is trying to get rid of (many older BMW were delivered from Germany with these installed and the dealer removed them prior to delivery - the switches were sent back to BMW for re-use).

PS. I sent you a PM...

i just did a search and as usual, found nothing... but, i remember reading, and even commenting on an automated battery cut-off switch - it had to be a year or longer ago... i hate getting old...

can you guys point the computer challenged terminator in the right direction???

:)

Wondering this as well...It kind of looks like that flange on the key end would mount somewhere!

Not the case, they are shipped back to the factory and installed in new vehicles being built.

too bad... if there is a factory specified location (not just laying around, as I had read elsewhere), i'd like to have thins installed on a permanent basis.. if not permanent, than i will consider this for shipment mode, when the car is shipped overseas again...

in the INPA i had seen TRANSPORT mode - anyone knows what it does? if the car is put on the boat, should it be set into transport mode? can it be moved under its own power on/off the boat, around the port facilities?

Would be great to have. My subwoofer cable is routed directly from the battery with a fuse link in the cable. Is there any reason we couldn't something like that?

A generic (non-BMW) disconnect would be easy enough to whip up....and the disconnect switches are widely available as well. That being said though, it would be nice to have everything all ready to mount and cut-to-length (if that turns out to be the case with the OP's unit).

Factory type would be great but I wouldn't mount it in sight or to the cover over spare. I would have it accessible above the cover but not attached to it unless the cover was slotted so I could easily detach if I wanted to get the cover out.

The "Transport Mode" was introduced by BMW in 2002 production year. Depending on model, certain features (sensors) are turned off, and the rpm are limited to 2,000 or 3,000 so the dockworkers won't have a field day.
The "Transport Mode" is supposed to be turned off by dealer as soon as the cars hit the lot.

Also, there were instances where some cars (some e39, I don't know about other models) would go into "Transport Mode" when disconnecting the battery without waiting for those 16 minutes or so for the car to go in sleep mode. Probably those cars had already a weak battery (this is a royal PITA, because you can't turn it off if you don't have access to INPA or GT1.)

Here is an excerpt from the TIS: "To prevent batteries being subjected to excessive power draw during transportation from the factory to the dealership, the E65 was the first vehicle to be equipped with a so-called Transport Mode (since start of series production). ne Transport mode prevents various control units from being activated by the user. This prevents a number of different functions (e.g. radio, TV, interior lights) from being used while transport mode is active."

Also, in "Transport Mode", the car is locked, but all sensors (tilt, hood, etc) are disabled so if the car is jolted during transport either in a cargo container or on a tow truck, the alarm doesn't go off and subsequently drains the battery.

Are you talking about the explosive terminal disconnect that trips with the airbags if they deploy?

I think I would rather take the spare out than set off an air bag every time i want to disconnect the battery but can't be sure unless I try it--where can I get it?

no, no... not the safety terminal on the (+) endo of the battery... it is a device, aftermarket, that installs onto the battery (don't remember, (+) or (-)) and it will cut off the battery completely if the charge level drops below a specified threshhold. the device is connected to the battery, and somehow "gates" the juice flow, and when there is a legitimate demand for the power, such as lights come on, or the modules are awaken, it opens up the full battery potential...

i can't remember the name of the widget, or any other keywords, but it was kind of a smart cut off switch...

thank you for the explanation, it seems that is what i would need to activate before shipment of the car, assuming it is available on the 2006 E53... i saw it in the INPA but it does not mean that it would work...

TerminatorX5:
Given your description is this what you were thinking of:

12 Volt Battery Saver Auto Disconnect Switch

bingo!!!!

and here a page that was referenced a while ago...

BMW X5 - How to Install a PriorityStart

I want in on this quick disconnect. So cool, and so necessary for us DIYers.

I'd not attach the battery cut off switch either, just sit it somewhere out of the way, under the cargo cover.
I know its much cheaper to just buy the switch adn then let the purchaser get their own cabling to make the switch/wiring, but it looks so nice as it shows in the OP's pic and then its all done for you. no more messin around.

Just ordered 2, So I'll try to remember to check back and let you know how the install goes too.

Got the switch today

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps239d3358.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9ff7e955.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps55591781.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse0c923be.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psce8aa60b.jpg

Got some time to earlier today so finally installed the cutoff switch

here is what our factory negative terminal looks like
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse4724731.jpg


this is what the hella negative terminal looks like
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8b5ab335.jpg

they look exactly alike

Where did you put the disconnect pin?

lay of the land
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2fdd2acb.jpg

General idea
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psae50b8b7.jpg


wrapped the old terminal it in tape just in case it moves so there will be no accidents
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps13b0a4c3.jpg

tucked the negative terminal on the north east corner of the battery
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd1938d2f.jpg

compressor back on
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps78dafb0e.jpg

no kinks
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdf54873e.jpg

spare wheel back on and final resting place of the switch
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps41ab806f.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps503ea96a.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps75d7f7e9.jpg


prognosis - the wire is a little short to get creative with the switch. My preference was to install the switch on the trunk left storage door (where the changer is) so its truly convenient. however this might have some issues because of the distance the ground will have to travel to the battery. For now the key is tucked in the spare wheel and is convenient enough. now all I have to do is pull the cover and turn - battery off

I apologize for the pics. but it gives you the general idea

Pictures are just fine. Thanks for posting the install. Good work!

forgot to mention: the light trifecta went on - DSC, ABS, and brake. Read through bluebee's thread (from Bimmerfest) that this usually happens when the battery is disconnected. drove it down the driveway and turned the wheel left to right and -poof- lights are gone

I SO WANT! Does anyone know what the BMW part number is by any chance? Or is that ebay seller the only source for this. I could have used this switch yesterday.

OP - Thanks for posting this.

I don't think anyone has found a source other than the Ebay link.

Later in the day I decided to replace my steering wheel and I got to use the switch

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7f3fec19.jpg

Longacre Racing Products sells the battery switch, it comes with a mounting plate and makes for a better install then this shipping switch.

Oh great - I just bought another one of the hella brand for my other car. Looking through their site I only found this - $37-ish
http://www.longacreracing.com/images...ical/45620.jpg

Other than that ^ they only have the basic switch. no kit. They also sell wiring but for $99 :wow:
http://www.longacreracing.com/images...ical/48050.jpg

if you could find the item that maybe has a longer wire that would be great.

These are available for $13 and $33.

I saw those but its not a kit. I may be overthinking this but since our X like most BMWs are sensitive to voltage changes the wires have to be properly soldered and not just crimped since this will be the main ground line.

ebay has a lot of turn switches but no cables. Found a seller that has this but he has blocked any communication regarding his item. I wanted to know how long is the single wire with the battery terminal and ground connector
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/FARMALL-IHC-C...KR)LEw~~_3.JPG

battery switch - JEGS High Performance

Jegs has a wide choice of switches. They have what could be called kit but they start close to $150.

yikes. for the $120 difference I will just have to put up with moving the sub box and lifting the cover everytime

No kit needed, the switches I showed in post #45 can be installed right in the positive cable off the battery with no issues.

I can't seem to find the ebay link posted, I thought it was. Sorry, if this is duplication. I just ordered one--it says there are only 13 left, 12 now.
Hella battery | eBay

I like the look of other switches but am going to wait to see the kit before deciding whether or not to change switch. Since Z168 has reported no problems and it is out of sight, I am leaning toward not messing with it.

Thanks for responding. but can you describe the general layout to me how to install the switch off the positive terminal without a cable kit?

The switch is spliced into the existing cable. If you choose a remote location a length of cable can be added.

Thanks for posting the install/fitment pictures Z!

IMO, I can see why this particular piece is used in transport only though... I'd be particularly worried about the intermediate male-female link, and not having the switch mounted to anything. It's for those reasons when it comes time for me to do a disconnect (or when I get around to it) that I'll use some 1/0 to run a new ground cable all together....right from the battery to switch and down to the chassis ground, eliminating unnecessary connections.

This is a non-starter for me. I didnt want to cut/splice/touch the original harness so everything is plug and play


If I wanted to run the cable from the battery terminal, to the left CD changer location and back down to the factory ground point (where the original ground cable attaches to the chassis), how thick of a gauge do I need to run? I assume it should be thicker than stock since the farther you go the bigger the gauge you will need, right?

Depending on you're distance, I wouldn't go smaller than 1/0 awg. I don't recall what the factory ground cable is (4....maybe 2 gauge?). 1/0 is some pretty thick sh!t though....I doubt it would give you any issues (except for maybe not bending very easily).

I agree, don't want to splice existing wires. If possible, I am going to try to mount the switch so that it is accessible and looks factory installed without removing anything as I have would have to remove subwoofer and 'stuff' that is bolted to main cover.

You could still use that hella switch as the posts in the back are just threaded studs. Cut the heat shrink, undo nut, discard short cable & replace with you're own cable. Throw some heat shrink back on and you should be golden. Whole job should take maybe 15 mins tops!

I'll probably do that when I get the chance. Its no fun to pull the spare tire again :( In the meantime I will keep it as is until I find a cheaper pre-made cable

Sounds good. I was looking at the possibility of mounting the switch behind the hatch to the nav. etc unit. Looks like it would be simple to do.

Received the quick disconnect switch today. That was quick! Ordered it on the 24th.

I intend to mount the switch above the floor, either in the nav compartment or somewhere in the back that is out of the way.

The OEM cable is 4 gauge.

I will be adding no more than two feet to each cable. I don't know that much electrical. I do know I ain't gonna git horse kicked off the barn agin, oow-weee that was a toe curler. I am not familiar if or how much I need to increase the gauge for the additional cable. I don't want it any thicker than it has to be because it will be harder to run and likely won't run in some of the places smaller diameter wire can.

Question is what gauge cable is critical to use for the additional 4 at most feet?

Since the factory cable is 4ga, you should be ok with 2 gauge for that run length. Just be sure to get yourself some good quality cable. :thumbup:

Found a 51" grounding cable from you'll never guess. that should be plenty long to get creative

CLICK

That's a cool one. I have, and I think we all have the same problem when we DIY on our rigs. My solution was to use an RV battery disconnect solenoid with a switch under the dash. I work on motor coaches so I had a few laying around, the next time im under there I will take a pic.

That's an interesting idea....never thought of that. I think those would be a latching relay, only requiring power when switching states, no? Where did you mount the switch?

It's probably the more expensive version of a battery disconnect...especially since most of us don't have those things "laying around"....nevertheless, I like your style!

Great idea!. Being accessible from the driver's seat would have broader application.

Having a proper gauge cable is only part of the equation. If you're not careful with cable routing, you can create unwanted ground loops. I want my battery ground cable going to the chassis to be as short as possible and running as close as possible to the positive cable. This minimize any ground loops. Look at how the OE cables are routed.

I didn't think there could be a ground loop if the cable is completely insulated through the entire length of the cutoff routing so there are not two ground points?

I looked at the equation for resistance added by X length of additional cable. There was an example where they moved the battery 12 feet to the rear of the car and it was just over the allowable increase.

I din do no quationing, it hurt my head to read it worser than gettin' hit with a coal shovel. I'm only a guess'n but if it takes 12 feet to fall in the well I woned if I goes another couple boot lengs a'usen that there same cable?

Ground loops stem from different grounding potentials between shared circuits. Dkl, I think you're getting a ground loop confused with inductance and the resulting emi. If you have a ground loop, running your ground beside the power wires are likely to have no effect on resolving it.

It's good practice to keep cables as short as possible, but as everyone knows it's not always possible.

Its actually a ground pulse trigger that activates/deactivates. Its called a relay, solenoid, cut off switch, in my industry, and there are several manufactures and several different kinds. The kind you see the most out there is a standard 3-4 post solenoid, basic power on, no power off. I used a latching one made by KIB that has a small circuit board on it that monitors the ground pulses to latch and "un" latch if you will. The switch is under the dash so it doesn't get accidently hit driving down the road its just a standard momentary on/off/on switch.

Here is a pic of the disconnect.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps8186090e.jpg

Interesting.....looks like some kind of IED lol. I'm curious what is considered to be the minimum current rating that we would need. The manual switch I have is rate for 200 amps continuous, where as the Kib pdlr9806 is only rated for 110.....I'm not sure how being on the grounding side of the battery effects things though, if at all. I'm no electrician!

What goes in must come out. Does not make a difference for rating as to what side (positive or negative) it is.

I have mine on the Positive side of the battery, the relay you speak of X5SND is not the same relay that I am using. Mine is rated for almost 500 amps. They make other relays such as starter relays for the diesel engine on the coaches I service that can take over 3000 amps. The one I am using is something near 500 amps continuous.

I guessed you've got a point regarding the common ground (the single grounding post that the battery's negative terminal connecting to the chassis). If you extend the ground wire along with the additional impedance introduced by the breaker circuit, the common reference point, which is at the chassis contact point, would remain the same as seen by all devices in the car. In this instance, there shouldn't be a ground loop problem.

In this case, it is possible to keep the GND cable very short as this is how the OE cable routing is done.

Installed battery cutoff switch. Removed the cables that came with it and replaced them with 63" cables. Cut and opening the cargo door so I could mount the switch flush. Cables run under the door and into the battery well through existing 'slots'. Have been driving it for two days with no warning lights or problems.

this is my solution to switch placement. looks ok to me...

what do you guys think?? i used socket cap head screws, 10-24-1.5" - on the pictures i have two size screws, the first size was a bit too big, so i went for a smaller one...

Both installations look great and really clean. I lean more towards Terminator's as it is out of sight.

I second that! Looks good Term.

thanks guys... this way i did not have to extend the cables or cut through a side panel - just two small drilled holes in the sliding floor support, a little offset with the piece of plastic conduit... i did straightened the terminals of the cables that were angled at 90 degrees - the angled ones just did not fit into the small cavity inside the support. i had enough cable to reach to the negative trerminal of the battery, and the only thing that is left unsightly, is the connection between the car's eyelet and the switch's post - i need to insulate them... However, being a (-) post, it is not too scary if it touches the car's body, as the it is already grounded... just in the name of good workmanship it needs to be insulated... I will be using rubber tape for that...

Looks great! This is a must have IMHO

I'm gonna have to put one in when I get the X up and running

I removed my stock sub enclosure and there is a nice cubby behind the access panel.. I think I'll route it down there.

Very nice install Term. I just got mine too. Can't wait to install it. Quick question, why such long bolts.

And to back to Lowes and get liquid electrical tape. I am copying your location.

Denis,

the bolts are long because i am using a piece of plastic conduit to offset the switch - without the offset, the red "key" sticks out too far and is cutting into the spare tire space and can touch the cargo "subfloor" cover. by pushing the "key" deeper into the cavity, you need longer screws... you also need to account for the wire that holds the "key" and that wire is fed through the one of the mounting holes of the switch, thus reducing the available diameter of the hole... the first set of bolts was fitting through one hole, but would not fit through the hole with wire holding the "key"... so, i went for a bit thinner bolts... I also used the self-locking nuts with the piece of plastic inside the nut, to avoid the thing from unscrewing...
I also hammered out the 90 degrees angle on the eye of the terminal because the angled way would not squeeze into the cavity...

very simple install...

ahahaha, got you, very simple indeed. lol. I will advise as soon as I get a chance to undertake this.

Slick,

did you have a chance to knock this one off your list? :popcorn:

Some things to consider as far as placement.

Two important functions of a quick disconnect are accessibility and safety.

If you have anything heavy that is always in the cargo area it makes it harder to get to a disconnect under the floor. That crossed my mind last night when I was removing my steering wheel and needed to disconnect the battery. Prior to the quick disconnect I had to remove my subwoofer and the bottle before I could lift the floor.

A very similar quick disconnect is used in racing. The rules require one on the dash and one mounted on rear exterior of the vehicle. One of the first things emergency/safety personnel do when they arrive at an accident is disconnect the electrical. I didn't want to mount two and I didn't want it completely exposed but I felt it was a good idea to have it visible and accessible from inside or outside.

It's not that pretty but so far the reaction of the gearheads is positive and looky lous who ask about it often comment that it is a good idea.

If you go the exposed route the placement should be high enough, out of the way enough, or protected enough to minimize the risk that it will be inadvertently tripped and so you can still see and get to it.

I don't plan on ever selling my X but if you intend to do so at some point and want to remove the quick disconnect, locate the switch somewhere where any holes you need to drill can be repaired easily and at a reasonable cost.

:iagree:

my situation is slightly different... i need the disconnect for when the car is shipped, the shipping agents don't need to poke around the electronics with the inferior tools, they would just reach in and turn the key...

I will probably change mine to how bcredliner did it. But I will probably keep it inside with the changer

I installed one of the OE Hella ones today. Just loose cables, tucked in on the side of the battery and under the spare wheel. Seems like it will work just fine.

But, I now actually think the best solution for me may have been to use one of those quick disconnect switches like this:
Battery Disconnect Switch

It looks like I would be able to reach through the wheel and turn the knob to enable/disable it. I have one of these on my old 911, which I don't drive so much, to keep the battery from discharging too much, and it has worked very well for many years now.

Either way, I'm glad I no longer have to remove the spare tire every time I work on the car.

I am not sure if I can reach to either of the battery terminals through the spare wheel's spoke openings... so, that setup probably would not work for me...

Terminator or Anyone else that might know, from where can I get this OE Hella switch WITH THE CABLES ? - [all previously posted links had either ended or sold out ...... I see only the switch with out the cables on E-bay ....] .

-- wondering how can you close the rear gate when you turn off the power ? - [shipping / long term storage and so on ....]

I saw bare naked switches as low as $2 a pop at local hardware stores. I would put a search on eBay and wait

Here is a source. Hella Battery Cut Off Switch with Heavy Duty Cable | eBay

Looking at pictures here I now see why. I don't have air suspension, so it looks like the thing under the spare tire for me is not only hollow (vs. for air suspension cars it holds the compressor), but it's also smaller. I think I could fit my hand past that and turn the knob to disconnect, but looking at photos of other cars with air suspension, I agree there does not seem to be enough room.

I will give it a shot next time I take the spare tire out. This Hella thing is nice, but I'd be even happier with a more minimal solution here.

BTW, here's what we're talking about:

bcredliner, Great find - Thanks :thumbup:. I was looking and looking all day long on E-bay - [usualy searching under the "buy it now" and not "auctions/ bid" .... :cool:]

Been done before by the man with all the options plus some additional one on his X5.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...dead-road.html

I remember that one!!!!

:thumbup:

hmmm good point, how does one lock the boot if there is no power? will lock mechanism manually engage? would have been great if the kill off switch cabling could be passed through /under the mat in rear and side panel near the 12v sockets at rear, much easier, but suppose if you had kids jumping around in the rear and kids got curious they could kill the battery whilst you are doing 100 on a motorway, not good i guess

just had found this Ebay. seller - [there is 3 avail. .... $28 bucks, but they are used ... ].

Hella Battery Disconnect and 8 Foot Copper Cables | eBay


I guess the only way to close by pwr the rear hatch/gate is by connecting second battery to the jump posts under the hood. That's how I've been locking and storing the X5 - [2k miles in the past 5 years], by removing the batt. from the trunk and using jumper cables at the jump posts under the hood ... [+ small trick with the alarm] ...

The "used" part is probably not a problem here.
But the 8-foot length might be. You'll want the shortest cables that do the job - based on where you want to mount the switch.

I guess the seller is counting both cable lengths as 8f in total .... :)
oldskewel sure I agree shorter cables are better ... [as side exmpl. I tried starting my other cars with the battery out of the car connected by heavy duty jumper cables, but only clicking ... :D ].


Happy Bimmering & New 2015 Year to ALL :thumbup: !

I know some people will want the switch, but after installing mine, I was concerned that I had created a potential point of failure just for the sake of convenience. So I uninstalled it (it's for sale if anyone wants it - PM me, I actually have two of them).

I'm much happier with my new solution. I used one of those battery quick disconnects I mentioned in an earlier post. I don't think it will work on cars with air suspension since the compressor obstructs it. Also, you need to be able to reach through an opening in the spare tire. But for my no-air 3.0, 17" OE spare wheel/tire, and the Walmart battery, it fits perfectly = enough room to install it, and enough room to get past the compressor shell thing. Hopefully it is clear in the photo attached here. The photo was taken looking through the opening in my 17" wheel OE spare tire.

I actually made one more modification after this photo was taken. With the green knob down there and hard to reach, I did not want to tighten it too much in case I would not be able to loosen it when needed. This made it too loose, as I found out once when the car would not start. So I replaced the knob with a screw which I tighten with a screwdriver I keep with the other tools in that compartment. This is now a perfect solution for me. I don't think I have compromised the original system, and it is very convenient to disconnect the battery when I'm working on the car.

Also, the battery quick disconnect can be found anywhere for about $5-$7.
Attachment 65551

Ever since I read about Terminator's nightmare scenario of the cutoff switch, I've been meaning to relocate the switch. So this weekend I finally had some time.

Got me a couple of these
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...j.jpg~original

Same switch
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...r.jpg~original


I ended up doing the connection from the ground side that way the battery terminals are intact
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...a.jpg~original
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...5.jpg~original

Wiring to the switch
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...x.jpg~original
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...g.jpg~original
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...p.jpg~original

Buttoning up
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...b.jpg~original

Final switch location
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...i.jpg~original

Only thing left to do is bolt the switch so it doesnt move. Also looking at a decal or something to tell a mechanic of the existence of a battery disconnect switch

something like this on the CD changer cover
http://www.militarystencils.com/Asse...y_switch_t.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...l.jpg~original

My turn to take a crack at this. Been moving forward on the stereo install so battery access is going to be limited (read... non existent). With Red having a new battery freshly installed I shouldn't have to replace it for another 4 or 5 years. Buuuuut removing the negative terminal for servicing would still be necessary.

So I ordered this from Amazon a long time ago (when I was ordering other stereo gear. It works pretty well. I get the same resistance across the factory ground cable, the 2 new cables I made, and then the entire setup so there shouldn't be any issues. *crap, jinxed myself* I spent waaaaaaaaayyyy too long I'm embarrassed to say. Think it was like 5 hours. Everything just ate up time. Fabbing the bracket and then wrapping it. I hate cheap vinyl BTW. Making the cables which included desoldering the factory negative battery terminal and soldering it onto new 4awg wire. Had to break out the propane torch to accomplish that. And then running/taping/prettifying everything. Anyway the setup seems to work great, so on to the pics.

Attachment 79242

Attachment 79243

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Attachment 79245

It's not easy to do a good job soldering heavy cables. Watch for resistance increasing in the connection after a while. I solder everything when it comes to smaller stuff but battery / starter cables are much better crimped.

Will keep an eye on it, thanks. I crimped everything else in combo with solder but the factory ring terminal is a solder only design unfortunately. Was sure to check the resistance on everything and I tinned the bajeesus out of the new wire before inserting into the oe terminal which was also tinned. I gave it a really good pull test so we'll see how it goes. :dunno: I didn't want to replace the terminal with the aftermarket audio one I have here as it would require 2 different tools to replace a battery and I do get some joy out of keeping the oe one.

I will say... Every car should come with a battery disconnect. Only had it a night and now I don't know how I every lived without it.

I learn all kinds of new stuff every time I open XOutpost! - This is a GREAT idea - beats the HE** out of pulling everything out of my hatch every time I need to disconnect the battery for this, that or the other - pure GENIUS!

Love this forum!


EDIT: And not that its right in front of me and so obvious, doh, feel like a complete dope for not thinking of is sooner...

Very tidy CW. Love the fabric tape on the cables, looks factory. :thumbup:

Same here. Just realized I need to do the idiot temp gauge in the cluster programming with the laptop to make it a real functional gauge that actually shows the real temp status. Thanks to the forum.

I can't claim credit for this idea but I wanted to do it in a more factory implemented manner than I had seen. Found this battery cutoff (think it's designed for boats?) and thought I could integrate it cleanly.

Thanks OB, high praise from you. I'm very pleased with the result and I've used it quite a bit over the last few days while working on the stereo. Now, I'll have to keep an eye on it though as 80stech has me paranoid about my soldering work on that large OE battery terminal. :D I guess time will tell.

BTW, good to see you again. Hadn't seen you on for a few weeks (not that I'm stalking or anything :D), but figured you had some work stuff going. Congrats on those finishes btw, saw them in the other thread. :thumbup:

Just an FYI,
using solder in our motorsport environment is an absolute no-no. The vibrations will easily break any hard connection like solder without proper mounting or strain relief. Straight professional crimping is all I do on any motorsport harnesses.

Given the street car environment of little or no vibrations, you will probably be fine but just keep in mind the physics of connections. :thumbup:

Car audio was the same way, when going for SPL you’d rattle your solder loose within just a few minutes sometimes - we crimped everything. Used to have a set of 36” crimpers to get enough pressure on 0 gauge wire! Man I miss those now that I’m rewiring my Notchback...


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Notchback? VW? Tell me you're a Kaiser fan.

1993 Notchback Mustang [emoji16] - started with and sold my 87, got and sold an 88 and then bought and sold my 89 and finally - yeeeears later, ended up with a 93 that I’ll probably keep forever this time [emoji106]

But I do love me some Bugs too!


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We did make one additional stop in between the 2 races in Texas and Georgia. ;)

In that case, my condolences to accompany the previous congrats. :D Not that I cared who won but 47-49% of the country shares your disappointment.

Thanks for the insight on connections in motorsport. I bought a crimper specifically for this job knowing I'd be crimping 1/0 gauge and 4awg. I had to rely on solder for the negative terminal unless I wanted to ditch it. :(

You said you tinned everything to the bajesus if I remember right and used a torch vs an iron - I’m guessing if you got good heat and a good melt on everything that you’ll be fine, just keep an eye on it for a few heat cycles to be sure. - not that it’s under hood getting “engine” hot, but it will warm and cool as the battery charges [emoji106]


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While you guys are wiring in your battery switches maybe run an extra + wire to somewhere you can get to it in case you lock yourself out with a dead battery. Wouldn't have to be a heavy wire, just enough to get power to get the doors open. That's on my to-do list! ;)

I use a handheld 8 ton hydraulic crimper for the battery cables. This is a nice simple tool for a perfect crimp on the heavy gauge cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Hydrau...PR4CRP8HD5X0SH

Dangit OB you're going to have my toolbox over flowing. Hah, already picked up an epoxy gun and tips, flush cutters on your recommendation, and now I'll need to pick one of these up in the future.

In the interest of tool box space I went with one of these. One or two good whacks with the 5lb mini sledge made crimping a breeze, if slightly less elegant than the hydraulic crimper.

https://temcoindustrial.com/pub/medi..._01_square.jpg

https://temcoindustrial.com/media/st..._integrity.jpg

That works just fine. I have the tool with specific dies for all gauge cables. Yours is spot on for that size. :thumbup: