LCM3 vs, LCM4
 

I tried to get autolights retrofit on my 2000 one and I ran into an issue coding the LCM module. It looks like I have the LCM3 with C18 where the AUTOM_FAHRL_STEUERG is not available. I got the trc file form my 2004 X5 and the option is available on LCM C21 (I forgot to pay attention if it was the LCM3 or 4).
What I haven't tried is to see if there is an option to upgrade the firmware on my module and get it to C19 where I believe this option is available.
Do you guys know if I need an LCM4 or an LCM3 would do it too with a possible upgrade?
When do they get LCM4 in the X5s?
Is there a list somewhere where I can check each LCM version for its features?

Did you get anything figured out (this was an an old post)? I'm trying to do the same retrofit on my x5 and I'm running into a number of problems.

My 01 X5 also has a LCM III with C18 firmware. I have the RLS and LCM IV (with C21) from a 2004 X5. NCSEXPERT won't code the LCM.C21 with the ZCS from my 2001 (i get an error: ERROR_ECU_REJECTED_WRITE). I'm guessing my ZCS (with or without the RLS option) is not compatible with the LCM IV.C21. NCS will recode the LCM IV with the original ZCS from the 2004 X5 without an error.

I own a 2002 530i that has RLS and auto headlamps. It has LCM.C19 and has the correction options in the NCS trace file. I'm guessing I could recode this LCM to work in the X5, but I'm not ready to risk messing up my 530i yet.

Is there any way to flash the firmware in any of the LCM modules?

a little more information....

While NCS wouldn't recode my LCM IV for use in my 2001 X5, SSS/PROGMAN was able to recode it. It still shows up as a C21 in NCS.

Further, I updated my version of NCSEXPERT from 3.something to 4.01. Now, this version will also re-code the LCM IV without complaint.

I learned one additional thing. By just changing the SA on my 01 x5 to include RLS, the RLS module does not show up as a code-able module. I think this is because the build date and the difference between AIC and RLS. Apparently pre 9/01 vehicles never had RLS, but could have the older version of rain sensing --> AIC. I changed the build date to 2002 using ZEKO and came up with a new VN. (SA, VN, and GM codes makeup the full ZCS). By manually telling NCSEXPERT my new VN, RLS became a new codeable-option.

I recoded the LCM IV using the new ZCS which includes RLS and a 02 build date. The trace compare to the old coding now shows 3 differences related to autolamps. So, I think I've successfully recoded a LCM IV to work in my 2001 x5 with RLS.

Next thing is to try it in the vehicle...

Right, you got it. I had to do the same thing. I generated an SA with 2002 YM to be able to see RLS.

fmugur - On another forum you mentioned that you encountered a problem with the RLS readings all being maxed out. Did you figure out what the problem was??

I had RLS working in the x5 and then it stopped working after a LCM recode (to shut off some annoying cluster messages) and now the RLS values are all maxed out. Not sure if the RLS breaking and the LCM coding are completely related.. As a quick test, I pulled the RLS out of my 530i and it works in the x5. Just need to figure out why the RLS readings won't go back to normal.

Maybe its reason i cant get Fl_bix both high beams on, but i could do it on a aquatances 05 x5..

I'm not sure wht FL_bix it?

This sensor thing is certainly weird. I swapped the modules between my 02 530i and the x5 with strange results. First, it seems like it's best to mount the module before allowing it to be powered. If you swap them with the ignition on, it's possible for it to stop working. At one point I broke both and neither worked in my 530i, (reading 255 in INPA). The final config I got working was using the new module in the 530i and initializing the 530i original module in the 530i and then transferring it to the x5 without re-initializing. The new RLS simply will no longer work in the x5 no matter what I do. Maybe there is a init process that happens over time and I'm not being patient enough?

I should note that I mounted the prism section in my x5 with clear silicon. It's very possible that initializing won't work unless it's mounted with the adhesive gel pad. Maybe the sensitivity is just out of whack because of the silicon. Doesn't explain why it was working at first, but who knows..

Anyone know where to purchase the adhesive gel pads?

Another note on the RLS retrofit. Pre 09/01 used AIC. AIC mounts differently than the RLS. I had the windshield replaced on my 01 x5 and I ordered it with the rain sense option. The new windshield had the mount pre-installed for the AIC. I assume if I had ordered a 2002 or later x5 windshield, it would have come with the RLS mount pre-installed.

Maybe the mileage & VIN were also different in the DME, LCM & cluster.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...8&d=1330706835

I tried this last year before the winter and I supposed to complete it this summer but I sold the car.
On the RLS I managed to get the autolights to work and the rain sensing was giving me the same trouble.
I got two RLS sensors and both the first time installed on the car were showing the right values in inpa. After the initialization I lost these values. Unfortunately you have to initialize it to read the new glue/windshield light deflection.

I ended up enabling in the GM3 module as in temporary option :

WISCHERPOTI ( WINDSCREEN WIPERS POTENTIOMETER TIMING ) - aktiv

but this is not going to use the sensor.
Check champaign777 user on the e46 forum for more details.
Post back here also your progress and I will try to help although I haven't completed this project.

Without further information, I'm assuming the 255! readings indicate a problem with the optics. If I initialize the RLS in my 530i (which came with RLS), the sensor will work for awhile in the retrofitted x5, but eventually it stops working. I can't initialize the RLS in the x5 and get it to work.

My windshield came with the AIC module attachment, so I had to rip off the mount and attached the RLS. I used clear silicone, but I think I/we need to get the real gel adhesive pads to get it to work properly. I'm going to contact a glass company and see if there is anyway to buy the pad.

As for the LCM vin/mileage, you do get the tamper dot to show up until the LCM is re-programmed with the correct VIN. BMW Scanner 1.4 is a good/simple tool to use for reprogramming the LCM's VIN and mileage.

Here is a copy of the post I made to bimmerforums.com

I've made some progress on this. I purchased a new prism+adhesive from automotivedesigngroup.com. Cost was about $30 shipped. Despite the kit coming with some good installation tips, I was not able to apply it without getting bubbles. A waste of $30 bucks. Bummer!

I noticed that the adhesive that comes with the prism is 3M VHB clear tape. My local Home Depot sells a small roll of 1 inch wide VHB for $5.

3M 1 in. x 1.66 yds. Clear Mounting Tape-4010 at The Home Depot

1 inch wide is narrow compared to the width of the prism, but the opening on the glass silkscreen is only about 1 inch. So centering the tape on the prism should be good-enough.

The stuff is very hard to apply without getting bubbles! After 3 attempts, I still had a couple small bubbles, but I went ahead and tried it anyways. At first I still had an initialization with 255 readings, but after messing around it for awhile, I finally noticed some normal readings and the dang things appears to be working as spraying some water on the windshield activities the wipers.

I'm not sure how much the bubbles are affecting the performance, but without coming up with a new technique to apply it, I'm not confident I can even do it without bubbles! Fortunately, the little roll that Home Depot sells is long enough for several tries.

A few more notes.. The kit from automotivedesigngroup comes with a small capsule/applicator of 3M Primer 94. This is supposed to be used with the VHB tape with glass applications. However, the VHB tape is very sticky and I don't foresee the RLS sensor coming off the windshield without it. It was hard enough removing it when I was going through all my application attempts.

Rubbing alcohol works very well for loosening/cleaning the VHB for re-applications attempts.

The installations tips from automotivedesigngroup says to use indirect heat (like a light bulb) to help heat the adhesive to help it stick/flow. They suggest NOT using a heat gun as this might allow dust particles to stick to the VHB. Cleanliness is stressed. After dealing with air bubbles so many times, I gave up on caring about cleanliness.. So, I used a heat gun to heat it which seems like it might have helped with the bubbles.

Lastly, it would be great if someone could figure out a good way to apply it without bubbles. I have enough tape left over to try it a few more times, but I'll wait to see if anyone else cane figure out a good technique. It's easy to apply it to one surface without bubbles, but getting two surfaces stuck together without bubbles is hard..

As a side-note, the VHB tape is 20mil thick and is sort of like a gel. Very similar to the factory adhesive.