MY X DIED!!
 

I was driving down 80 through Parsippany, and my car started acting up. At first the DSC light came on then the transmission failsafe program. On 80 its having maintenance performed on it, so keep in mind there was no where to pull over. So when the lights popped up I immediately threw my hazards on and slowed down. As I was looking for a shoulder of some sort to pull over my radio volume started going up and down. By this time I'm cursing and yelling. It was torrential down pour of rain at this time as well (maybe water got somewhere it wasn't supposed to?). I called AAA yada yada and while i was waiting i tried to start her up. All i was getting was clicks. AAA arrived I turned the key again and it started, but just barely. Battery is only a few months old, if that helps. Any ideas? What a perfect time for her to break down just ordered some parts for her. :dunno:

Have the battery (even though it's new) and charging system check.

Sounds like a voltage problem. What kind of X do you have? Have many miles? Mine does the same thing every once in a while. Its voltage related. Ive narrowed it down to the Outside temp sensor and voltage regulator.

battery is discharged.. since it has happened while you were driving, it means that the voltage has dropped too low, probably an alternator/voltage regulator and the electronics started to die off, thus you got all of those symptoms... voltage could have dipped below or SURGED above the threshold (16 VDC is the top limit)...

test the battery under a load, hopefully the battery place will have a correct tester for that... when you are back into the car, try the cluster test #9 (i think it is 9) for the system voltage and monitor the voltage while driving...

did the battery light come on too? if so, that means that the regulator bridge is defective... while the parts are repairable on the component level, it might be easier to swap the entire alternator...

keep us posted of the symptoms and further development, so we could give you more ideas....

e53 4.4 sport package 118k miles.

Year? Please put that information in your Sig such as TMV and I have. Alternators are different between prefacelift and face lifted years.

sorry I'm a facelift 2004.

it is not a watercooled alternator, if i am not mistaken, so it is rather easier to replace...

Ok, like I said... I've had the same symptoms. Radio, TFS, All the lights coming out on the dash... its a voltage problem. In my case, i was getting under voltage... 8.88 at one point. When you get the whip back, use a multimeter to check. I keep one in the car... thats how i found out about the under voltage. The car will start, soetimes it just take a bit.

I really appreciate the all the quick responses everybody! Xoutpost doesn't have high ratings for nothing!

TerminatorX5, Im going to cluster test now. brb.

Yup, prob just an air cooled Valeo unit.

While you are looking at the cluster, what is your outside temp reading?

i still think it is more of the electrical - with the outside temperature he would get all the engine and tranny ruckus but not the radio... i think the radio acting up is the key indicator here..

also, since it was torrential rain, i would also check for water in the battery compartment, where the radio is - things may have gotten shorted out if water got in the side pockets and/or the battery tub...

Yeah that is true... I just wanted to see if his outside temp is reading something wrong.. like -44* or 105* when mine does this... the temp display is always all messed up... so something is either being shorted or underpowered.

not to highjack the thread - but is yours still messed up? or you got it fixed?

Way to go Term... Hyjacking Threads... lol. No I fixed it... So far so good. I havent had that stupid doors not locking and all the lights on the dash coming up anymore. So $50.00 for a new regulator and she is all good. I painted the rear calipers black last week. took 5 hours because I took the calipers off the car and then cleaned them all up so the paint would stick properly... I figured I gained about 10 HP... respectfully.

it is about 3 HP per corner, so I would say the gain should be around 12 HP... you sure you did not misplaced the other two horsies... lol...

well, this dialog keeps the thread on the top of the list... this way we don't forget about it... :)

Neighbor had a battery tester and we determined that the battery was shot. Luckily I had a warranty from autozone, but a shot battery in 5 months? I tried the cluster test nine and it had diplayed lock on or lock off, wasnt sure what to do then. Will check temperature asap. Had to jump to a new battery quickly because I had somewhere to be. I really do appreciate the help! Would the next step be to check the battery recharging and the alternator?

Sounds like something is up with the charging system if that batt is only 5 months old and is discharged that way. Check further into it.

a battery can be dead in 5 months or 3 months or 20 months... however, to rule out the battery fault, the charging system needs to be checked...

for the test - take the last 5 digits of yuor VIN and add it up, say it LV12345, 1+2+3+4+5=15...

get into the tests, to test #19, it will say LoCK on/off, go into the test when it will say "00", and press the button until you reach number "15"... well, the number that is your VIN... then press the other button to "enter" your number - this will unlock all the tests, including the test #9

Nr 19 displays GONG? And plays a few of the warning chimes. Test 9 displays 12.1v

19 is GONG? hmmm... i thought 19 was lock/unlock... oh well.. it seems that you managed to unlock the cluster, so you are ok...

12.1 VDC - is it when the engine is idling, the car is moving, or key is in ACC position but the engine is not running?

12.1 VDC is good if the engine is not running, it should be enough for starter to crank it up...

12.1 is NOT good if the engine is running, it should be around 13-14 VDC...

drive the car around with the test active to see what the running numbers are, and look out for spikes or dips in voltage - they may indicate faulty brushes and/or defective diode bridge or other regulator components...

Driving nr:9 test ranged ub:13.6-13.9 this was only .5 mile drive, tomorrow morning I can monitor it on my drive to work.

those are good numbers... of course, on a longer drive you can see if it spikes or dips...

have you had a chance to look into the side pockets where the CD changer is and the fuses are? and the battery tub under the spare wheel? is it dry down there?

Battery tub was completely dry. Tomorrow I will check the side pockets. I also just noticed that my torch flashlight charger is not functioning. I have the auxiliary adapter and no powers getting to it. Center console cigarette lighter port is functioning. I had a 2 usb port and 3 cigarette adapter ports hub plugged into it and now it looks like that unit is fried because it isnt getting power from the functioning center console cigarette port.. Ill check the manual for accesory fuse perhaps?