Front Suspension Noise
 

Hi Everyone - I have a loud clunk coming out of the driver's side front wheel section of the suspension whenever I go over a large bump/pothole in the road. Driving on solid road everything is tight and there is no noise; however, like I stated, over large bumps you can really hear it.

I thought for sure, based on what I read in the How To X5 section, that it was the sway bar links. So I bought them and had my mechanic install; however, noise is still there. I talked to my BMW tech friend and he stated 99.9% of the time the clunking noise is the sway bar links. Look like it's something else. Any suggestions?

Truck has sport suspension option and has 60K miles.

Thanks to all who answer.

clunk at 60k? Could be anything in the front end that has a bushing or ball joint. There is a ball joint, wishbone control arm, and tension strut (thrust arm). If you have shaking under hard braking from your steering wheel I'd look into the thrust arms, those are common maintenance items.

Check CV joints as well.

Guys - I took the truck to a front end specialist and when he drove the it, he said he believes its the strut mounts. He said while he's in there, he likes to change the struts too. Now, I know he's not padding the bill b/c I'm getting the parts

I ordered the mounts from my local BMW dealer and used my friend's account for the discount. However, they want $850 for both front struts. The mechanic recommended I go with Bilstein and he's gonna get me a price.

I called my friend who works at an auto parts store and he has KYB for $320/pair but he felt the Bilsteins were better.

Any recommendations?

Should I go with Bilsteins or KYB or do I bite the bullet and go with OE?

Thanks to all who answer

I was getting a creaking noise from my front passenger strut. I have 4 corner air suspension. I noticed that the 3 nuts that secure the top of the strut were loose. I tightened them down and now there is no more noise. I have noticed that the studs on the top of the drivers strut are longer than the studs on the passenger side. Does anyone know if this should be like this?

Sounds like your strut mount has been replaced once already? Previous owner probably ran over something and messed up the strut mount. Either way, I would just tighten the nuts and drive it. Check every day until you are sure they aren't loosening on their own.

I had both front air struts replaced a few years ago with remanufactured arnott air struts (the strut mounts were not replaced when this was done. I am not sure if the air struts have the same strut mounts that the non air struts have?). I am basically doing what you said. I tightened it all back up and am keeping my eye on it.

Check the sway bar links. They can loosen up and cause this thunking noise can happen.

^ This. Replace them and it should solve your problem.

The problem was that the nuts that hold the strut on the top were loose. It produced a creaking noise. I know this thunking noise that you are talking about. It definitely wasn't a thunking noise. Very much a creak which makes perfect sense. The nuts holding the top of the strut were loose so every time there is an impact to the strut, the strut is moving against the strut mount. This should all have no movement.

I never checked the whether the bolts/nuts were tight. I guess I could do that tonight when I get home from work. I already purchased the strut mounts from the dealer and I purchased the KYB struts. Like I said before, I don't have any evidence the struts are bad but the mechanic figured since he's gonna be in there anyway, he might as well change them.

Does anyone have any experience with the KYB's versus the Bilsteins's? It was just too much money to go OE. Thanks

Ok here's the update. So far, I've changed the sway bar links, front strut mounts and struts and the noise is still there. Sounds like a clanging sound on the front driver's side and only seems to happen on really rough roads, with potholes. There's a big difference on the way the left hand side of the truck handles the roughness vs the right side. Mechanic checked the control arms and they're very tight.

Any ideas what this could be?

BTW, the KYB struts worked out very well for a third of the price of OE.

Check cv joints and motor mounts.

Thanks AZ.

Since I'm already into this issue for a grand and haven't resolved. Can you tell me how would I or a mechanic know if its a CV Joint or the motor mounts? Is there a test he or I can do to verify? Or, is it you just take your chances changing out the part and hopefully that's it?

Sorry for the stupid questions but I'm not very mechanical.

You can check the cv joint by visual inspection and then by feeling. Visually inspect to see if either the inner or outer boot is torn and has slung cv grease around. Then if you grab the cv axle it should be pretty taught. If it has some lateral movement in and out (towards wheel towards engine) that is alright. However, if it has significant lateral movement and radial movement that might be a sign of a failing cv joint. As well, if there is any clunking metal on metal noise at the joints this could indicate a failing joint. The symptoms of a failing joint for me while driving were a clunking noise when turning and a significant vibration with throttle on around 65mph or more. Throttle on with a grade at 65mph plus the car had a significant front end shake.
For the motor mounts, I had no idea how shot they were until I had them replaced. At start up my car had a descent amount of movement from the engine shaking. As well, it idled rough. Now, I cant even tell the car is running at idle. When coming to a stop, it felt like the car would stop and then it would push forward again. This was the engine moving forward.

For the issue you are describing it probably wouldn't be related to motor mounts. A worn cv axle could be a good thing to look into though.

From what you described, it doesn't sound like either. When on a smooth surface, truck rides perfectly. When braking there is no shake, no weight shifting or any type of disruption other than braking (truck used to brake differently until I had the thrust rod bushings replaced) and idle is very smooth.

If we stick with the suspension for a moment and the mounts, struts and sway bar links have been changed on both sides and the control arms are tight, what else is there in the front suspension that could generate that clanging noise?

I think you are most likely correct that it isn't related to cv joints.

Maybe the slid plate underneath the engine has missing or loose mounting bolt(s)?

Thanks Kris

I did some thread searching last night and came up with the following possibilities -

• Ball Joints on Tension Arms
• 4 Sway Bar Mount Bolts
• Sway Bar Bushings (already changed)
• Under Tray Bolts
• Thrust Rod Bushings (changed last year)
• CV Joint
• Wheel Bearing

Not sure if there could be anything else.

Generally the control arms go bad. Have a friend drive up and stand on the brakes, if the front tires shift forward and you get a thunk - the arms are bad.

OEM run for $129 each. Alternatively you can replace the bushing, but by the time you pay someone to press out the old and press in the new it's easier to just buy the arms new. Not to mention the fact that the ball joint on the other end will be worn as well, and you can't replace that. That's why I just replace the whole arm.


BMW X5 Front Control Arm / Tension Strut OEM

That list is like Grannies night shirt; it covers everything

I know my issue was from a while ago, but I had a coolant and oil leak that was getting fixed I mentioned to my indy about the suspension noise coming from the front drivers side wheel area. Turns out is was the ball joint. He changed both sides, control arm had some play so we swapped both sides out and changed the tie rod ends. Front end is very tight and suspension noise is gone.