Install rebuilt ABS Module
 

I just got my module back and was wondering if anyone can help with the installation. Do I need to dis connect the battery? Should I spray some MAF cleaner or brake cleaner on the parts that have been in the car? Do I need to turn the steering wheel or any resetting like that?

It is a good idea to disconnect the battery negative. Make sure connector pins are clean (no oily residue). Plug in ABS module, then reconnect battery, that's it.

Thank you for the response. I'll see what happens.

I just did the exact job. Did not disconnect the battery.

I removed the ABS module (had to remove driver's side headlight assembly, fan and fan shroud in order to gain access to the 6 torx screws. Sent it off to Matt at CheapABS for repair ($150 total cost).

Reinstalled and everything is working again. No more trifecta lights.

My symptom was: trifecta lights would come on when the engine compartment heats up. ABS module was defective.

I re-installed it and no change!!!!!!!!??? Still have no speedometer and the trifecta of lights on the dash. Had mine done by Matt also. I guess it was a waste of time and money. Now I dont know what to do next. Wheel sensors?

Bad wheel sensor will show light for check brakes or brakes rather than trifecta.

Make sure you don't force the electrical connector on, or you will bend/ break pins off in the ABS/DSC housing. The connector should fit square to the top, then when you push the retainer back in (on the harness), the connector should sink "gently" into the ABS/DSC module.

(A bad wheel sensor will produce the 3 yellow lamps on the dash.)

Two bad wheel sensors will put your vehicle into "transmission failsafe mode" on top of the 3 dreaded yellow lamps.

When I put the connector back on it was kind of hard then CRACK and it went on. Now i am thinking I did some damage. The trans fail safe light just came on. Now my dash looks like Christmas. Not sure about these BMW's. A lot of trouble with this one. I think it's cursed.

I unplugged the harness and all pins look to be intact. Nothing appears to be wrong with the connector.

The problem is either a sensor, or your ABS/DSC box still is faulty. If you have a small "Amp clamp" you can lift your vehicle, remove the tires and rotate the rotors while the amp clamp is around one sensor wire. This is done with the ignition on, engine not running. You will see pulses as the magnets pass the Hall effect sensor. This varifys that the ABS/DSC module is supplying power to the wheel sensor, and the sensor is sending pulses back to the box. If one sensor causes no deflection on your meter, then sensor swapping with a known good sensor proves whether the box or the sensor is at fault. This way of testing is non invasive to your system as your not poking DMM test leads into wiring harness's.

Don't start blindly changing sensors! That gets expensive "FAST!" Find the fault, or get someone that can find it for you.

Good Luck :thumbup:

Ok HEISING, I will do. I changed the drivers rear about a month ago thinking it was the culprit but it was a cheap E-Bay one. So im not sure if it was good. I here you should use OEM.

Where did you buy the rebuilt ABS module? I might need one soon.

Xman,
After you removed the ABS module, did you start or drive the X, if so for how long mileage wise? If you start/drive without the module intact, your X might need to be recoded after reinstalling the module, even if it's the original. This is according to CheapABS website.

After I removed my module, I never turn the ignition to on. It sat for a week without electric current running through it.

Just a thought.

MrFixIt, i did drive it probably about 100 miles or more in the 2 weeks it was being repaired. Maybe it needs re-coding. Who does that the steelership?
I had it repaired by Matt at Cheap Abs Repair. From what I understand they are very good, cheap and reliable. Alot of ppl on this forum have used them.

The dealership or a good indy should be able to recode it.

I would give Matt a call. He might be able give better explanation as to why it should/must be recoded. Maybe the X is not recognizing the repaired module.

OK sounds good. What is an INDY? everyone talks about them. I am in AZ and we dont have an Indy.

Indy = independent repair shop (i.e. not the dealership)

And in my experience driving should be kept to an absolute minimum, if you must drive the car at all while the module is being rebuilt. I was always under the impression its like 80 miles or under, anything over that and you are asking for problems when reinstalling the module.

I also wouldn't put it past having a problem with the cheap no-name ebay sensor you replaced, for wheel sensors its generally recommended to use OEM because the electronics are so sensitive in our cars.

Yeah ive heard that cheapies wont work but was hoping to get by. Any ideas how much an Indy would charge or how involved it is to re configure ABS module.