Just wondering
 

If my battery dies, and I can't unlock the doors with the remote or rear hatch, can I supply power to my trailer connector to power up the battery to unlock the doors with the remote or will I risk damaging the trailer module?

Yes, others here have reported successfully using that approach. The connections you want to make are the pin at 1 o'clock position for the positive (hot) and the pin at 7 o'clock position for the negative (ground).

Very interesting question. Hope you get an answer.

You could always buy a used module and try it with the module not connected to the battery and see if the positive side of the trailer connector is a direct pass through the module.

Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't it be as easier (and maybe safer for the car) to manually unlock, pop the hood, and apply power to the factory post? I'm also now very hesitant to do anything without disconnect the NAV unit...but that's a different issue.

Sometime in the winter the door locks may be frozen so you don't want to break a key in the lock and at the same time the battery maybe dead due to the cold. Or for people who already have a broken door lock and now a dead battery this could be used instead of the Brick to the window to open the door to pop the hood to jump the battery.

the brick sounds a good practice! :D

I see. I was excepting something...that northern climate. My vehicles are garaged for the most part but that kind of cold is something we don't typically have to deal with anyway.

i haven't tried the "reverse' approach, but in euro and australian version of the trailer harness there is a direct run to battery, in US version - not so much... it has been a while since i looked at the wiring diagrams, so this info is kind of blurry, but i think even US version somehow worked, as per one of the posters here...

This route would be easy enough to do and keep out of sight:

Battery Remote Terminal Jumper Posts : Amazon.com : Automotive