E53 Coolant Gauge Dead?
 

Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum. I've been learning a lot from all you experts. Thank you.
I have a 2001 X5 4.4i, E53 with 80K miles.

Radiator hoses burst and instrument panel coolant gauge shot into red.
Pulled car over and took it to indy - 3 miles away.
After investigating, Indy replaced Radiator, fan, cooling pump, hoses, belts thermostat...everything except the coolant tank.. one big job.

Now, the instrument panel coolant gauge does not register the engine temperature, its always blue.
BTW, the HVAC climate control when I set it to Max cold blows only cool air. I set it to Hot, and did not get too hot.

Asked Indy to check again, he did, and says everything is new, could be the instrument panel gauge. I've spent $$$$so far, and would like to tackle this myself. Please advice.

Sounds like a faulty thermostat so the engine never gets warmed up.

Hi Zulu95. All my research on this forum suggested thermostat too. And I asked Indy. He checked it again and said it was new, and it came with all the hoses for the radiator. There are no engine codes, and since he worked on it, I've driven about 50 miles.

New thermostats can be faulty.
Have him check the actual engine temperature readings. This will show if the sensor/computer control for the dash gauge is faulty.

or, he did not snap in some of the plugs all the way, and there is no temp readings... there must be some codes, either the temp is not rising to operating temperature, or at least in IKE module, indicating that the cluster is not receiving the iBus signal for the temperature... i'd bet, that the ibus connection inside the cluster is fine, as other items there work... do a test #2, it will show you if the needle for temp is operational or not...

since cluster is receiving the signal (i bet it does), you should be looking for loose connections where the work had been done...

Hi guys thanks for taking the time to look.. I read here about the hidden menu, and #2 test to move all gauges to full limit. I tried to bring up the hidden code in the cluster. Steps: ignition key position 3 > trip reset stick push and hold... even after several attempts, I could not bring up the 'test' menu. It’s like both the instrument panel reset sticks are not doing anything. There are several procedures around here, the E39 the X3, may be I' haven't found the right procedure for the 2001-x5.
The weather is 86 F, so it is warm. And I drove for about 20 miles, I'd expect the temperature in the engine to go up and the gauge to move. Nothing...gauge stays in cold ‘blue’ range and does not move.

I'm not familiar with the IKE module. I will investigate this some more.. thank you

where in VA are you? close to NoVA?

Does the car produce heat? How hot is the radiator or a cooling hose after a short drive? Did your independent know how to bleed the system and cycle the electric cooling pump to get the air out of the system? Did you try to replace the coolant temperature sensor (easy & cheap to do)? Put a thermometer from your kitchen in the coolant tank after a drive.

I live in fairfax, Virginia - not too far from you. If you would take a look I'd gladly drive there, if only I was sure the coolant is actually flowing and its only the gauge... I will try the kitchen thermometer idea from Gregory. The Indy fixes imports and is fairly good..if its a coolant air bleeding issue, I'd expect the gauge to be irratic right?

I'm fairly adept at fixing things.. My 1995 5 Speed Altima is still with me at 195K... so is my 99 Odyssey with 150K. I maintain them with minimal indy help. I can do a decent oil change, read OBD codes, replaced radiator, air bags, ECU, cleaned fuel injectors, solenoids, plugs, distributor, Mass airflow, coils, EGR etc

.. but this X is just sapping my strength...the list of issues is growing with nasty surprises every day :)

A few things to help:

A coolant sensor will only send a signal to a (functional) temp gauge if it is immersed in liquid. An air pocket won't transmit much heat to the sensor. Check yours in terms of resistance when cold and warm (Bentley manual).

From memory (it's on the X site or you can find in a Bentley manual) you set the heat to max, heater fan on low, key on aux ignition position (engine not running), do this for a minute or two. Your Indy hopefully did this and then kept filling the car up and also used the bleeder screw on the radiator.

Does your car make heat?

Could be that your temp gauge has failed (less likely but possible)?

Make sure the coolant tank is full. Run the engine with the heater setting higher than inside temperature. In 10-15 minutes rev it a little then shut it off. Carefully open the coolant tank and take a temperature reading.

Since the temp gauge isn't working first thing I would do is make sure the I knew the actual engine temp.

That will help narrow down some. Since you heater won't blow hot, I would expect temp is not getting up to normal operating temp but you need to know for sure.

Engine Coolant Double Temperature Sensor

The temperature sensor is screwed into the cylinder head. A varistor (NTC = Negative Temperature Coefficient) serves as the measure for the coolant temperature.
Among other things, the coolant temperature serves as a measurement variable for following functions:

• Start volume calculation
• Injection volume calculation
• Set idle speed
• Characteristic Map Cooling

In the event of the engine coolant temperature sensor failing, a fault code is entered in the DME control unit and a substitute value is calculated from the value of the intake air temperature sensor with the aid of a temperature model.
The housing of the coolant temperature sensor contains two sensors (double temperature sensor). The one sensor sends the signal to the DME control unit while the other sensor is connected to the instrument cluster.

so... there are TWO sensors, one is used for the engine operation (and hopefully is operational) and the other one reports to the cluster, and seems to be just informational only... i still suspect a loose plug...

here are the three pictures of the sensor location, one of them should match your car... check the plug, especially pins 1 and 2, they are reporting to the IKE (IKE is the instrument cluster)

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...s/G_120286.png

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...s/G_154075.png

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...s/G_278022.png

Hi guys, I Inspected all the connectors and hoses. They looked good.
I checked the coolant reservoir, the dip stick looked low. I set the ignition switch to II, turned up the cabin HVAC on both driver and passenger to 90, and set the central vent to "3 red dots", and turned down the fan. I could hear a pump kick in and the coolant flowing in the reservoir. I could see the bottom protrusions in the reservoir, is the coolant level too low?

I took the X for a short drive, and the cabin temperature went up. After a 3 mile trip, I checked the hoses, and reservoir, they were also hot. So the coolant is circulating, right? BTW, you cannot open the coolant reservoir cap when things are hot, I'm assuming this is a safety feature.

I tried to find the images that TerminatorX posted. I'm assuming I do not have to remove any hoses to find the thermostat. I see a 3 way hose and here’s the pictures. I’m assuming this is the thermostat. Once the engine cools down, I will take this apart…Sorry guys for being such a rookie..
I attached some pictures.. and I will be replacing the reservoir asap.
Once again thanks for helping me out.

coolant level is DEFINETELY low!!! you need to add some ASAP... on top of low coolant, all that white residue, is the coolant spewing around... you need to pinpoint the source of leak and replace it ASAP... it can be the expansion tank itself, usually goes at the seams...

the pictures that i posted and the one that you are have with the arrow pointing to a plug, is the thermo SENSOR (the double sensor), not the thermostat...

here are two pics of the thermostat location:

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...s/G_120289.png

http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...s/G_154036.png

Thank you for clarifying. So I was checking the thermosensor, and it looked good, and tightly seated.
I now understand from your pic #154036, that the thermostat is right behind the air intake shroud...Everthing except the coolant expansion tank was replaced. And looks like I definitely have to replace it. There are no coolant puddles or drips. From reading here, I see that I can only use the B&W antifreeze and not the Prestone antifreeze. I will get some from the dealer. In the morning, I will find this thermostat and check it out.

i usually order my parts from BMW of Fairfax, but use their online ordering system, as it gives you like 15-20% discount.. no discount if you walk up to the counter, but once ordered online, you can pick it up from the counter... my wife is working in Merrifield, so she picks up some of my stuff...

Thanks for the tip. I was going to walk in. I checked them out they have 20% off online, and I just ordered the expansion tank and coolant. This should solve the low coolant level and leaking expansion tank. I still have to figure out the
'cool' coolant gauge mystery :) .

Hi foks sorry it took me a while.
I ordered the coolant expansion reservoir online from ebay ($54), it was cheaper and it looked OEM like. No instructions or labels though. (It's been ok for 30/40 miles). Replaced the expansion tank and topped up with coolant.
I set the ignition switch to II, did not turn on the engine, set cabin temp to 90, 3 red dots on A/C vent, and I could here the coolant aux pump on, and ...coolant everywhere! crap, thougth I got a cracked tank... cleaneup, tried again... it was the bleeding screw! I thought a bleeding screw is for ..bleeding air out, so it should not be too tight while adding coolant. I guess I'm wrong. Tightened it all the way, left reservoir cap off, and again set ignition to position II. A little better. After adding coolant, took it for a drive.. let it cool down, checked the levels in reservoir. It looked good.
Instrument cluster still does not show engine temp. No check engine lights. Cabin heats up well on both driver and passenger, and HVAC settings work for both, front and back, tried cold passenger, hot driver, cold rear etc.
Found the Coolant temperature sensor. The clip is on, connectors were clean, but cleaned them with a wire brush anyway. Removed to check the sensor, LOL, coolant gushed out. So how am I to check this? Plugged the hole with ziplock :) . it looked new and shiny.

BTW, the instrument cluster odometer reset sticks are not resetting anything, earlier they were cycling through different values like distance, resetting the odometer etc.

My next steps: (a) The thermo SENSOR (the double sensor) is new. Plan to open it and check it. (b) Do a resistance test on the new coolant temperature sensor using hot water in the kitchen OR, buy a new sensor and see if it helps.
With no check engine light, will there be OBDII codes?

And meanwhile other "fun problems" driver door lock, door handle, botton tailgate will not latch, pass window dropped...

Any suggestions please?

If your driver door lock spins with "no joy", you can rebuild it with some OEM parts. There is a guy (in Turkey) who sells them on Ebay. I bought them and did the whole project in under 30 minutes. Then I fixed my key remote so I woudn't need to use the door lock that much :)

Door handle: is your problem with the outside handle (an known X5 problem, buy the parts and replace) or inside?

Passenger window. Likely the window regulator, but there is good material on the forum on parts that fail and how to replace them.

Keep going, you'll get the typical X5 issues sorted and have a fine luxury car for MUCH less than new.

Sustainable development is keeping a good car on the road rather than buying a new one.

If your driver door lock spins with "no joy", you can rebuild it with some OEM parts. There is a guy (in Turkey) who sells them on Ebay. I bought them and did the whole project in under 30 minutes. Then I fixed my key remote so I woudn't need to use the door lock that much :)

Door handle: is your problem with the outside handle (an known X5 problem, buy the parts and replace) or inside?

Passenger window. Likely the window regulator, but there is good material on the forum on parts that fail and how to replace them.

Keep going, you'll get the typical X5 issues sorted and have a fine luxury car for MUCH less than new.

Sustainable development is keeping a good car on the road rather than buying a new one.

I hope it's sustainable :). My wife's calling it "Burn My Wallet" X5. I got the door latch from autopartswarehouse, followed the steps here and a video on ebay. It worked. Thanks guys.
The door lock tumbler shaft had broken. I ordered the parts from ebay (vtraudt) - the first time the shaft broke while I was putting it together. He sent another shaft, this time it broke after installing..hope the 3rd try will work. Meanwhile I ordered the same kit, this time from UK. Hope it works.
Now on to the window regulator, tail gate latch and the coolant gauge mystery.
You guys are amazing how you've solved so many problems.