you (bcredliner) are correct sir...one of the bulbs in the cluster is blown and the others look good but ill replace the trouble ones just to be safe...ordering replacements now.

I am waiting for the coolant sensor to arrive so i can replace it. I should of probably checked the wiring because it isnt a consistent problem, so I will do this now as well as some of the other suggestions you so gracefully offered, Thanks again.

UPDATE:

CCV test went fine...there is suction when idling. When removing the connection to the MAF (while car is idling) there is a slight hesitation then it runs smoothly. Connecting the MAF again makes the engine begin to idle high and low continuously as if the engine is breathing. Does this means the MAF is working correctly?

Also, I havent driven the ride in a few days and when starting it up, it kind of makes a squealing noise as if its cold and wants to be warmed up or as if the serpentine belt is tight/not oiled/etc.

I spent a couple minutes finding the entire DIS V57 software and installation kit (with instructions) and am in the process of setting it up. I just have to wait for the dongle to arrive and i am my own dr.diagnoser. If you want to see what I am setting up feel free to google "BMW DIS V57 SSS V32 TIS V8 DIAGNOSTIC DEALER SOFTWARE" and you can torrent it too. The usb dongle is like $10 on amazon. I plan on setting it up to a VM instead so that I dont accidentally infect my system with some malware.

No, if the idle smoothes out when the MAF is disconnected that means the MAF is not functioning properly. I would try to clean it once more--cleaning must be down with MAF cleaner. Be sure to spray both the visible wires and the wires almost hidden. The hidden wires are the ones you want to get clean. They need to be sprayed several times to get really clean.

Try removing the coolant sensor connector. Clean any corrosion you can see so it makes good contact or reconnect it 2-3 times and see if that corrects the problem. Even though you have ordered a new sensor, if the current one works you won't have to lose any coolant if it is the connector--it is a 80-95% chance the connector is not making good contact.

As for the squealing, before troubleshooting what is driven by the belts, I suggest checking to see if the belts are tight and spraying them with belt dressing. You can also use soap or candle wax but not as easy as it is too dangerous to do with the engine running. If a belt is worn out there will usually be cracks on the pulley side of the belt.

I use the same software package with a dedicated laptop. It is a helpful tool but it can be misleading. I.E. it may show the problem is an O2 sensor when the O2 sensor is a symptom rather than the core cause. I use it for clues and then troubleshoot as you have been doing for confirmation rather buying parts based on the software diagnostics. I am not a power user but that are several forum contributors that can help if you have questions or trouble with the software.

I figured out the P0430 code is typically caused by the DISA valve leaking. Fix it by putting a bead around the sealing edge to keep air leaks out. A mechanic told me about this and it worked. No more codes.

SOLVED (for the time being)

The MAF was the main cause of my problem, replacing it fixed all remaining codes. While under the bonnet I replaced the spark plugs and a troublesome ignition coil. A couple things left to do are:

- solve a starter issue (it doesnt start first time every time, typically holding it triggers the glitch and the engine turns on/over smoothly. Already checked for bad grounds and the battery, I presume the problem is either the EWS+Key fob, the ignition switch or the starter/solenoid. Or probably even a bad connection somewhere

- fix front driver side door handle (After the past snow storm I went to open the iced over door and accidentally pulled the handle off the hinge).

I had some similar codes and issues. Do still get great gas mileage? Have you ever checked your DISA valve? I changed out all four O2's, plugs and general tuneup. Runs smooth now and great MPG. Did this around 162K. Drove my 2001,3.0 auto OR to FL and it was fine. Now, some vibration issues. Also just replaced throttle body intake tube at 177777K. Cat's are original. Good luck hope it works out to be cheap fixes.

Are you saying nothing happens when you try to start your engine the first time every time?

What is your idea of "great gas mileage"? I think its pushing 19 MPG highway, so its acceptable however I do dogr' a bit. I have had the DISA replaced a couple years ago and I replaced the O-ring last time I took it out for a once over.

Actually, sometimes it starts the first time and other times it takes some repeated tries. It is a pain but it eventually starts.


Anyone have any other leads?

Does this happen after you have driven a number of miles, shut it off for an hour or more and then try to start it. Or, does it happen when you start it up after sitting overnight. In Simply, are there any particular set of circumstances when this happens.

Does this happen after you have driven a number of miles, shut it off for an hour or more and then try to start it. Or, does it happen when you start it up after sitting overnight. Simply, are there any particular set of circumstances when this happens?