No. Ignition switch faults usually present as a myriad of electrical gremlins and very rarely as a failure to start the car..... :rolleyes:

Hard to be 100% certain without swapping it out. You could try measuring voltages in multiple locations (if you are handy with a multimeter).

We are only talking about the electrical part of the switch - not the key barrel... easy swap.

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/551186_x800.webp https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/551183_x800.webp

Nope...the ignition switch is on the left side of the steering column and is electronics based. Again, when it does fail (not saying this IS your problem) you usually see odd electrical gremlins which are electronics based. When you do the visor test...it is putting more electrical load into the cars bus system which is receiving data from the ignition switch (terminal) and if the contact points in the switch a faffed...then this is probably what causes the electrical gremlins.



There are old videos on YouTube that shows some of the odd things that occur when you try to get the system to replicate the odd gremlins by opening the passenger sun visor. Just do a search on YouTube for "BMW signs of a failing ignition switch".


Edwin (I believe his YouTube handle is Homerraas - he's Dutch, thus the odd spelling for us Yanks :) ) has a good video that shows how to access/remove/replace as well as some odd gremlins. He did it on an de38...but the e38/e39/e53 will be 99.9% the same.

CrazyOneToo - Between this posting and your other one about this problem (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-gremlins.html), there is a certain amount of cross talk going on.

Over the years I have been really impressed with the advice given by Qsilver7 - so I am happy that he at least thinks the ignition switch is also a prime candidate. By all means check with Scott at bmwgm5.com, but if Qsilver7 says the GM3 doesn't control hazard flashers and headlights, then I'd be surprised if Scott thought differently. Try what Qsilver7 is talking about with the sun visor. If that reproduces things then a new ignition switch is well worth swapping out. I understand about not wanting to be a parts swapper, but it's not very expensive and should take less than an hour.


Good luck.

If the remote unlocking/locking of the doors is isolated from the rest of the issues you're having...then it could be a GM III thing or components associated with remote locking (FBZV) which takes a slightly different route than using the physical key in the door lock cylinder.

The remote fob sends a 315 MHz signal to an antenna embedded in the left rear cargo window (on sedans its the rear windshield...but on Tourings/SAVs it's in the rear left cargo window)...then it goes on to a receiver (I believe in the tailgate spoiler area)...which then ends up at the GM III where a command is sent to lock/unlock the doors and arm/disarm the anti-theft alarm siren system (DWA).

Again, if the locking/unlocking issue can be isolated from the electrical issues...take a look at the connections to the FZV antenna in that rear window to make sure it hasn't become loose...and also take a look at the FZV receiver to make sure there's no corrosion or water infiltration.


In the images below...you can see the location of the FZV antenna (embedded in the rear left cargo window) on BMW's Tourings/SAVs/SUVs...and in the 2nd pic you can see the location of the FZV receiver amp (slightly different location than the Tourings). But check the connections at both the antenna (look behind the insulation) & the receiver: