Quick (Belated) Intro
 

Hey Gang! I'm a regular over on Bimmerforums, and have posted a here a few times, but I think it's time to properly introduce myself. I've been a BMW addict for nearly 20 years and my hobby is to buy BMWs in need of TLC and nurse them back to health. Sometimes I'll keep one, but most of them get passed along to new homes so I can fund the next one.

I just picked up an aggressively neglected 2001 X5 3.0 which was abandoned at a repair shop. It sat for nearly a year before the paperwork was completed allowing them to sell it. I was the first one there with the money, so it got to come to live with me for a little while.

It has a long list of problems, some major, most minor. I can probably sort most of them myself, but will probably be calling on the community for help with some of the trickier ones.

Here is what I've found so far:

• Coolant leak (I think from the expansion tank)
• There is something seriously out of whack in the front suspension. The left front tire has about 10º of positive camber and at least as much toe out. To go straight, the steering wheel has to be held at 90º from center.
• Leaking oil from the rear crankshaft seal
• It needs to have the ABS controller rebuilt (ABS, BRAKE, DSC warning light trifecta).
• Tons of dead pixels in the MID
• Driver's seatbelt won't retract
• Broken regulator on right rear window
• CEL is on - code reader says O2 sensor faults
• Lots of burnt out light bulbs
• Broken outside door handle on front passenger door
• Windshield wipers non-functional
• Needs rear tires

I think that's everything. The only one that really has me worried is the rear seal. I've never pulled a transmission. I think I can handle everything else. But time will tell. I plan to start digging into it tomorrow afternoon.

Welcome! I love the "fresh out of the barn" look on your X5!

Most of your issues seem relatively minor. Use the search function and you can take care of 90% of that stuff. That front suspension issue could be tricky, and the crank seal is a big job... but it sounds like you're up for it!

Sounds like the front suspension took a major hit from riding up a wall or something! Or it took a major smack on the front left side and impacted the front suspension.


Good luck with the fixes, the tranny and suspension ones seem the worst. Coolant leaking is probably expansion tank, I would do that, the hoses, the T-stat, and water pump, belts and tensioners preventatively, probably about 400 bucks-500 bucks for parts and get it all done in the weekend.

The crankshaft seal I don't know a thing about, but it sounds fun.

ABS module and MID can be rebuilt/repaired for about 100 bucks apiece as I'm sure you know from many sellers on ebay. Window regulator is about 150, replace the clips as well. Same with door carrier, you'll need to replace that to get the passenger door to open again (100 bucks from dealer).

Wipers not working, might be a General Module issue, or it could be something as a blown fuse. I'm banking on a GMIII needing to be rebuilt however.

O2 sensor faults could be a vacuum leak, or could be bad sensors, hard to tell.


How many miles on this "barn find?" Good luck with it, you're braver than I am with the unforeseen maintenance costs. I hope you shine her up real nice and bring her back to life! And for gosh sakes that drivers seat needs a thorough leather cleaning, the tan seats look brown!

I must have seen too many episodes of Chasing Classic Cars, because I hated to wash off the "barn find patina". But it really looked nasty. Besides, it's not a one-owner 1937 Bugatti. So I took a hose to it last night. The paint is actually shiny underneath the thick layer of dirt and mildew! It smelled pretty bad, too!

I can rebuild the suspension if needed, but the crank seal does have me worried. It seems like EVERY BMW I've owned with the M52TÜ or M54 has a leaking rear seal. It must have something to do with the aluminum block. I couldn't take it any more on my E39 528iT, so I paid a shop $600 to replace a $30 part. The X will probably cost twice as much because of all the extra hardware. That's why I'm considering tackling it myself. I'm sure it's doable, the question is: Do I really WANT to?

140K. I think it'll be okay after some remedial maintenance and TLC. The interior is nearly as filthy as the exterior. Can you recommend a good cleaning product for the leather? I'm good at the mechanical and electronic stuff, but not so much at detailing. I don't want to damage the leather when trying to clean it.

Good luck.
I don't think it worth to flip that one. Too much time and money invest with little profit. If you have time and space, part it out might be a better option.

Hopefully I'll be okay. I didn't pay very much for it. Also, my brother has already said that he wants to buy it when it's ready.

Visit our forum sponsor Detailers Domain, and pick this up:

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Griot...Kit_p_768.html

It comes with all the products I use, I recommended this kit because he includes a brush attachment and the 3" griots random orbital, which you will need to use on those seats, and the carpet for the most part.

the 1Z Deep Plastic Cleaner is what you need to use to clean the grime off the seats, and it will clean up the dash panels, dashboard etc. Once the seats are cleaned up use the Lederpledge for conditioning the leather, its not greasy or shiny and just leaves them looking supple and new.

After you wipe down all the interior plastics with the 1Z Deep Plastic Cleaner, use the 1Z Cockpit Premium on all interior surfaces for protection and to show a clean matte finish.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/1Z-ei...mium_p_70.html


Or, if you're like me and are ballin' on a budget (and don't need the Griots machine since its out of stock now that I looked on the website), just get the Lederpledge separately (its 15 bucks), and get this Interior Basics kit (the white towels work great, but i'm warning you you will need to let the cleaner sit on that leather for a couple minutes and really use some elbow grease to get that grime off before applying Lederpledge!):

http://www.detailersdomain.com/1Z-ei...Kit_p_656.html

And get some carpet cleaner while you're at it, and also use some soft but stiff bristled brushes on the interior carpets (and don't forget to use some on the headliner, i'm sure there are stains!):

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Adams...aner_p_94.html

Basically you need to get about 70 bucks worth of products (use code BMW for 10% discount), and a few hours of cleaning in the driveway and the interior could look close to new again. I'm sure the A/C smells musty as well, get a new cabin filter, but while you're switching it out, vacuum all the leaves and sticks near the filter housing, and turn the A/C on full blast with the filter out of the car, and spray some Lysol directly into the cabin filter housing to disinfect the A/C system (old detailers trick)

Once you sprayed a decent amount of Lysol, close up all the windows, let it run for a minute, then put in the new filter, close up the housing, and press recirculate to really clean out those vents!

EXCELLENT advice! I will get that stuff ordered and attack the interior. Thanks! :)

you may want to order a 10 pack of Uber All Purpose microfibers (black) as well, they are 25 bucks on DD website, and you're going to need them with all the glass, carpet, headliner, leather seats, and dash/door panels you need to clean/wipe down!

the 2 interior microfibers in the "interior basics" kit are great, but you definitely need more than 2 by looking at those pics LOL

Interested in updates as you Tic through your list. Also, how it turns out as far as percent profit you make on the X or your expectations on a project.

Great hobby! Lots of fun and satisfying to see the transformations isn't it.

Welcome to the Board and helluva hobby!
That is one butt ugly/beat to a pulp 2001...
I had to go down to the garage and gaze at our '01, to cheer my spirits. ;)

Non-sport, and 17" wheels.
Hope you didn't pay much and can make a few bucks after doing that laundry list of repairs.
GL, mD

I threw a bucket of water on it and it made a big difference - it already looks better! It's actually in very good condition (mechanical issues notwithstanding), it's just really, really, dirty.

I'll post updates as I progress with the restoration. I'm very curious to see what's going on with the front end and will have a look at that tomorrow. I'll probably also swap out the expansion tank as that seems to be source of the coolant leak.

It's definitely a great hobby, and it is immensely satisfying to see the transformation from "bow-wow" to "Wow!" I've slowly worked my way up from a very sorry E36 318is with a gutted interior (pic also attached). This one will probably be the most challenging project so far, though.

I agree that aesthetically, the Sport package with big wheels/tires is the way to go. If I were shopping for an X5 to keep, that is what I would seek out. This car needs a set of tires, and the upside to the 17's is that it won't cost me $1200+ to replace them. I have an E85 Z4 and an E39 528iT with the Sport package on each one, and they are tire eaters. Both also have staggered tires and the rears wear twice as fast as the fronts.

I have worked on an X5 4.4 Sport for a friend and she was stunned by how much a set of 20" tires cost for that car, and by how often they had to be replaced. She "knew a guy" who worked at a tire distributor who supposedly got her a deal and it was still over $1500 for the set. Plus, they still had to be mounted/balanced. So I'm okay with 17" wheels on this one! :cool:

Welcome! :)

Alpine White always cleans up nice, it will be amazing what a clay bar and a polish job will do for that paint!

For the rear seal leak, how bad & do you really know that the rear seal is the origin of the leak? As the car likely needs an oil change, you ought to try a thicker oil (5W40 rather than 5W30) to see if these lessens the issue.

I remember 20+ years ago when I was really quite sure on a E12 that it was the rear main seal. After a few hours (I did it myself, I have the tools, I have the technology but am not the $6M man) of work and driving the car, it turned out to be the oil pressure switch that was leaking (high on the back of the cylinder head). Over time it would leak and drive down on the bell housing and transmission making it look VERY much like a rear main seal.

Check everything and everywhere else, it may be something else which might also prove to be much easier to resolve.

MID pixel is easy, been there & fixed it.

Stick with the basic 17" wheels (I have the same), tire replacement cost is modest.

FYI, a square set of (4) Bridgestone Dueller HP Sport 315/35/20's from Roadway is $1091.44. So I imagine the traditional staggered set is even less. Food for thought if you do end up going the 20" route.

Thanks for the tip on the rear seal leak. I plan to get everything cleaned up, get all the old oil off, and find out for sure where it's coming from. Going to a heavier oil is a good suggestion and I may try that. The oil filter housing and valve cover gaskets are probably also leaking, so I could be seeing runoff from those. But then again, I've seen enough rear main seal leaks to know what they look like. ;) But maybe I'll get lucky.

Good to know about the 20's. Although I doubt I'll go that route on this car unless I happen to stumble across a good deal on a set of wheels.

very true JB, and remember OP, the Duelers are a high end tire as well! So i don't know where the $1500 comes from, thats ridiculous dealer retail pricing in my opinion.

FWIW, a traditional staggered set of Toyo Proxes STII (what I run and what several members run on their 20s, great mid-priced all season tire!) will run you around 850-900 bucks.


Good luck with the oil leak, I hope its not the rear main, definitely switch to 5w-40 though, i have been seeing reduced consumption with it. And you're absolutely right, if the VCG and OFH gaskets have not been changed with that age and mileage you very well might have those leaking and it might be tricking you!

I spent some time with the X5 this weekend getting to know it, and taking a complete inventory of the work needed. The good news is that in the recent past, somebody did care about it. It has brand new rear brakes with OEM rotors, a new serpentine belt, the valve cover gasket has been replaced, and it looks like it has a new radiator. I can't tell for sure about that radiator (couldn't find a date code sticker), but it is noticeably newer than everything around it. I may pull it anyway when I replace the water pump, thermostat, and hoses.

I also addressed several items on my previous list:

I was able to repair the broken door handle carrier, using this technique: http://www.xoutpost.com/801519-post46.html

We'll see if it holds. While I was in there, I could see a previous attempt at repairing it, but I'm not sure what the thinking behind it was. A bunch of safety wire was looped around parts of the carrier and tied to the latch mechanism. It was totally ineffective, though. I pulled it all out and made the repair to the carrier itself. The vapor barrier is missing, so I added a new one to my parts order. Several clips and fasteners are also missing, so I have ordered replacements for all of them. In fact, most of my parts list is stuff like that.

The problem with the driver's seat belt was because it was twisted over itself behind the b-pillar trim and stuck in the guide about halfway up the pillar. I untwisted it and the belt retracts perfectly now. Thankfully no new parts are needed there.

I ran a full diagnostic scan with DIS and cleared all the existing fault codes so I'd know exactly what I'm dealing with. The upside is that the windshield wipers now work. But there is a fault with the O2 sensors. So I'll have to dig deeper into that one.

All the burnt out bulbs have been replaced.

I found the problem with the front suspension/steering: The RH inner tie rod is bent into a "V" at about 20º. The nut securing the bottom end of the sway bar link on that side is also missing. So the sway bar is essentially not connected. The threads are worn off the bolt from it rubbing on other parts, so I'll replace it and the one on the other side for good measure. It doesn't make sense to just replace the one inner tie rod on a car with 140K miles, so I've also ordered complete tie rods for both sides.

I also ordered a headlight polishing kit. I've tried several products and techniques, and have been impressed with the results from a kit made by Sylvania. The only problem is that none of the local auto parts stores carry them any more. eBay to the rescue! $25 with free shipping.

Stay tuned…

Great and cost effective progress. It great to see someone that troubleshoots the cause before ordering suspected parts that have failed. Good work!

I see you're taking on a lot..good for you.

I'm familiar with the V8's but not much with the 6cyl. My friend has one and has done extensive work on it. You may have just a leaking valve cover gasket on the rear corner...check that first. From what I know the rear mains seals aren't issues unless someone abused the car.

The headlight lens all you need is any metal polish...any hardware store sells it. You can even use tooth paste.

The front ends wear real bad on these at 75-k I mean all the suspension arms/trust arms and ball joints. The tie rods are usually ok unless damaged like yours.

Usually speaking the 02 sensors are fine and it's a clogged or bad Cat converter. You may get lucky if you take the 02 out and try and clean them with break clean-not carb cleaner. It also may clear up with fresh fuel. Absolutely put in a gas additive of your choice and run a full tank through.

The water pumps go bad on those regularly so keep a close eye on that. Yes the coolant tanks go as well. If your A/C is not cold or your heat is warm the electric valve that controls coolant flow from the expansion tank goes bad all the time. Located on the left fender-heater control valve. I believe yours has a auxiliary pump built in and just makes it cost more. Bav Auto sells OEM or German after market

This guy does a great job on pixel repair and he does it in one day turnaround. He will email you pictures when he is done. I had the instrument cluster done, all bulbs changed, radio pixels and chrome rings around the gauges done for $300 including overnight shipping. Best Pixel Repair for BMW, Audi, Saab, Lexus, Range Rover - Best Pixel Repair

Good luck....looks like you will have a great car when your done.

I pulled the codes for the CEL, this is what I get:

19 DME: Activation, Oxygen-Sensor Heater Before Cat., Bank 1
Open Circuit P1134

37 DME: Activation, Oxygen-Sensor Heater Before Cat., Bank 2
Open Circuit P1151

So, it looks like I need a couple of O2 sensors, right? I looked at the wiring and didn't see any problems. Is there anything else I should be suspicious of?

those are the codes from DIS? Is there a test plan when you pulled them?

Its possible the o2's could be bad, but hard to tell for sure. DEFINITELY need to run some really good fresh 93 octane and a bottle or 2 of Techron fuel system cleaner through the tank though to clean it up in there!

Yes, the codes are from DIS. I'm new to DIS (been using another product for a long time, but finally got fed up with it). Can you elaborate what the test plan does?

I'll run a couple of tanks of 93 octane with Techron through it as soon as it's driveable.

The tie rods ought to be here tomorrow, along with the new sway bar links. I also have a new set of tires waiting to go on once the suspension is sorted and I get an alignment.

Well for example when you scan a module and pull the faults, when you click on one of the faults sometimes there is a button at the bottom called "test plan".

When I had problems with my EHC 2-axle air suspension, I would pull the codes, and when I clicked the fault, it lit up a button at the bottom called "run test plan", which basically ran through different scenarios and tests so it could conclude what the fault was from.

For example I had "EHC 74 accumulator filling requested, pressure remained constant" so I ran test plan, it asked me if the LED was lit on the switch, then proceeded to test the compressor by running it and checking the change in pressure, and there was a threshold of pressure which it did not meet, so the test plan determined that since it did not pass the pressure increase test that the compressor was faulty.

Something along those lines, however there might not be test plans for all faults.

Ah, so it's almost like a troubleshooting wizard. Very cool! I didn't notice that, but wasn't looking for it. I'll run the test again and see if that option is available.

Thanks for the tip!

X5 Project Update: Good News/Bad News
 

I spent the weekend working on my X5 project and it was definitely 1 step forward, two steps back!

First, the good news. I installed the new tie rods and sway bar links and was able to drive the car for the first time since buying it almost 3 weeks ago. It behaved very well - no vibration or shimmy. Good handling, and good tracking in spite of my quickie DIY alignment. It doesn't pull to either side really drives nicely. The transmission seemed to shift well, too.

But it was a quick drive and I stayed close to home. I never know what to expect the first time I drive a project car and don't want to go any farther than I think my wife will be willing to come get me if needed. It was about a 10 minute drive and as I pulled into my neighborhood, the engine temp started to rise. I was within sight of my house when it nearly reached the red, so I shut it down and coasted to a stop. After about 10 minutes it had cooled down enough to go the last 500 feet to my driveway. Hmmmm, now it's a little clearer why it may have been abandoned!

So now what? I started to look a little closer and found some interesting and, quite frankly, contradictory things. Upon closer inspection, it's obvious the head has been off and refreshed. It's very clean - much cleaner than the rest of the engine. There are also copper colored flakes in the coolant. That tells me that somebody tried to stop a head gasket leak with that stuff you pour into the radiator. But was that before or after the head was redone? There is also some evidence of water in the oil. You would think that whoever had the head off would have changed the oil afterwards, but maybe they didn't? Did these things lead to the head gasket being replaced and the person (or shop) who did the work didn't bother to change the oil and flush the coolant when the job was done? Or, was the job botched and now needs to be redone? Maybe they reused the head bolts, or there are stripped holes in the block so they can't be torqued properly. Who knows!

I decided to do a compression test to see if that would tell me anything. I got the engine up to temperature, but then it took me almost 20 minutes to find the frikkin DME relay. Plus the 15 minutes it took to get the coils and plugs out. So it had some time to cool before I tested. I say this because the numbers are higher than I would have expected. This is what I got when I tested it:

1 - 186
2 - 179
3 - 186
4 - 184
5 - 186
6 - 187

I don't have an E53 Bentley manual, but I do have a set for the E39. And it has info for the M54 engine since it was also available in the E39. According to the manual and TIS, the compression should be 142-156 on a hot engine. So my numbers seems high. But maybe because it had time to cool down? The main thing, though, is how consistent they are. Although #2 does seem a tad low. Which is the opposite of what I would expect from a bad head gasket. So if the head gasket is okay, what's going on?

I have replaced a HG before and am up to job. I just don't want to. The last time I did it, I bought all the special tools for the S52 in my E36 M3. But of course, different special tools are needed for the M54. Does anybody know of a source to borrow or rent the two VANOS alignment tools I'll need if I decide to pull the head to have a look-see?

After thinking about while mowing the grass (I do my best thinking on the lawnmower), this is my next step - unless somebody has a better idea:

Drain the coolant (it's mostly water, anyway), swap out the water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, upper/lower radiator hoses, refill with BMW coolant, go for a drive and see what happens. If it runs hot again, I'll know there's definitely something wrong. Maybe I'll do another compression test once it's fully up to temperate (now that I know where the relay is).

The only thing is that I'm not sure what to do next if it does run hot. By that point I'll have cooling system parts that are known to be good. And the compression test doesn't shout that the head-to-block seal is a problem. So then what? :dunno:

Variation between cylinders doesn't warrant yanking the head, imho. I would do a leakdown to see if air is in any way coming out of the coolant cap / oil cap. I would completely drain the coolant at the radiator and block. New coolant, an oil change, and call it good.

:iagree:

But I would do the thermostat at the same time.

Compression numbers look fine to me, but you are only testing one of the potential leak paths in a cylinder head gasket that way.

As others have written, this variation in compression from cylinder to cylinder is normal. There is a specification, the rule of thumb I recall from when I played with 2002's and Bavaria's, is that no cylinder should be less than 20% than the highest one. You are FAR from this.

Leakdown test would also be a good test as well.

Before you take things apart, put a cooling system pressure tester on it. This will allow you to pressurize the system at say one bar (14 PSI) and see that it holds pressure on the gauge without the engine running. You can calmly look and see if there are any leaks. Aside the head gasket, these leaks would not be the origin of your overheating, but it's part of a normal, comprehensive cooling system check.

As for things to change, you have a good & logical list: full drain of coolant (at block and remove radiator), new thermostat, new water pump & inspect radiator for internal blockage / heat transfer problems. Water hoses are protective insurance for the future.

I would also suggest you check that the cooling fan's viscous clutch is working properly. Even a perfect cooling system won't work as it is designed if you don't have air flow.

Great suggestions! This forum is awesome, I'm glad I found it!

Can anybody point me to leakdown test and cooling system pressure test DIY? I've never had to do either of those before.

Question about draining the coolant from the block: How in the heck do you reach the drain plug? Part of the subframe and the driveshaft block access to it. I can see it, but am not able to reach it. Is there a trick?

Mt 2 cents...my friend had the same thing with a 3.0 he bought not running. It was at the dealer 100 times for over heating and they never changed the water pump.

If it where me I would change the water pump and flush the coolant. I would send the radiator out to a shop and have it flushed and check for leaks. If your lucky the impeller fins are worn and that all it is. Yes the thermostat and coolant tank, change them too. These parts will have to be changed anyway at some point even if the head is not leaking.

My friend had to replace the head gasket because it was overheated and driven to far. The head was re-planed by a machine shop.. a must. He ran into a problem with the threads stripping out for the head bolts. The block when overheated does something to weaken the threads. He had to install new steel thread adapters made by BMW just for that, make sure you research and replace those too if it is the head.

From what you're describing the car was overhead and continued driving until the head gasket went. The head gasket repair was either done right or wrong? If the water pump was never changed...you should be able to see that...than maybe they never addressed the overheat problem. Just from what your describing I'll bet the water pump is fine and radiator and thermostat...if it were me I would change that anyway. I'll bet the heat gasket repair is not right...the head is probably warped and some bolts are striped. They probably wouldn't have abandoned a car with just a bad water pump. Even if it's a head, if you bought the car right it's still worth doing. Research those head bolt threads sold by BMW..I'll try and find out more from my friend. If you PM me I'll give you his number...he just went through all that.

I have little experience with error codes. I do know that a code may be a symptom rather than the cause of a problem. On the other hand, pre cat O2 sensors degrade over time and are often not replaced in a timely fashion. I don't think you have mentioned how many miles on your X but rule of thumb is O2 pre cat sensors will start impacting mileage and performance at 60-80,000 miles. I don't ever try to fix them as they are too important and not that costly and you have the old one out anyway.

I would like to know more about the overheating problem. When you checked the coolant was it low?

Even if it was not I think it was an excellent suggestion to pressure test the cooling system before replacing a bunch of stuff. Before I had that done I would have the system professionally flushed to get as much as of that--how to screw up a cooling system and not plug the leak crap, out. Armed with the results, I would start make cooling system decisions from there. I suspect the copper turd was for the cooling system only.

You mentioned evidence of water in the oil. What and how much evidence? The first place I would look for evidence of a blown head gasket would be oil in the water rather than water in the oil. Oil in the water looks like a foamy chocolate shake.

In your case evidence of water in the oil it may be a collection of condensation from sitting so long. Sitting that long, even with no evidence of water in the oil, I would change the oil and filter ASAP, cheap safety measure.

If you are concerned about the head do the suggested leak down test first. FYI--each cylinder must be at top dead center when tested. If one or more is bad, I would check the torque on the head before removing it so I knew if I needed to address that aspect before the head gasket is replaced. As suggested, I wouldn't replace the head gasket without having the head checked thoroughly beforehand.

If the head gasket job wasn't right he'd see it in the fresh fluids after that is done. The bolts are torque + angle so all of them have different final values. I would leave the bolts alone.

Edit: recommend a simple drain / fill and go from there. IMHO, no reason to pull the radiator.

Thanks for all of the suggestions! I think the plan for now is to flush all the fluids and see what happens. I bought some cheap oil today for the first drain/fill cycle. Once I know the fluids are fresh and clean, I'll have a good baseline to work from.

I don't think I'm going to mess with the head right now. But I did bookmark the site for Time-Serts (just in case). But hopefully it won't come to that.

I have not seen any evidence of oil in the water, nor can I smell exhaust in it. The attached photo is what I mean by evidence of water in the oil.

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Dipstick

The car had been abandoned for a year, but was not just ignored in a warehouse or something like that. It was at a repair shop and they occasionally had to move it around the parking lot. So it was started and run for a few minutes in order to move it. So the water I'm seeing could just be from condensation, as suggested. An oil change will tell me for sure.

I already planned to do a cooling system overhaul regardless. Given the age, mileage (140K), and unknown service history, that's a no-brainer. All that stuff needs to be replaced no matter what.

I've replaced BMW heads and head gaskets over the years and have seen real water in the oil. At worst, your dipstick pulls out and it looks like gray mayonnaise on it. Similar when you drain the oil.

If your drain looked fairly normal, most likely you had condensation from a year of moving the car a few car lengths with no warm up.

Do all the good things for the cooling system, even if you can't reach the drain plug on the block (socket extensions and U-joints may help).

Genuine BMW coolant or the BASF (from memory) OEM equivalent.

I had some time after dinner and played with the X5 some more.

I removed the water pump, thermostat and upper/lower radiator hoses.

Some observations:

The car has been parked and not run for at least 24 hours. When I removed the expansion tank cap, coolant gushed out as if it was under pressure.

The radiator is new. So is the expansion tank (date sticker says it was manufactured in February 2010).

The fan clutch is also new, but stamped "Made in China".

The water pump is newer than the engine, but doesn't look "new-new".

The thermostat and hoses do not look new.

It's apparent that somebody was looking for a cause for it running hot. But did they find it? That is the question!

I have a water pump, thermostat and expansion tank that came from another 3 liter M54 and are known to be good. They were replaced as a preventive measure, but were working properly at the time. I'll stick those in and fill it with BMW coolant, run it some and see how it does. I have new parts coming, but this will get me started until they arrive.

Does anybody have an extra water pump pulley they'll sell cheap? The one I pulled out has a chunk missing out of it.

No. I had already topped it off, but it was blowing past the cap on the expansion tank. If not topped again, I would imagine that it would quickly become low.

Question: Does the E53 use the coolant level sensor in the expansion tank? I ask because mine is not plugged in, but there's no warning light in the cluster. I can't find a connector anywhere in the area of the expansion tank that would plug into the sensor.

I have a 2002. The coolant level sensor is connected to a receptacle on the side toward the engine, quite close to the bottom of the expansion tank.

Excuse my post if you aware. The thermostat is controlled by the DME. DME software/hardware may be a problem. It should throw a fault code if it is haywire.

I didn't see any fault codes related to the thermostat. But I can definitely look again. That's a good idea - it hadn't occurred to me to check for that.

The coolant level sensor is installed in the expansion tank, but nothing is plugged into it. And I can't find a connector nearby. It should be right in the immediate area because there usually isn't any extra slack in the wiring. I'm going to unplug the sensor in my E39 528iT and see if it triggers the low coolant warning light. Then I'll know if that's causing a problem or not.

The wire that plugs into the expansion tank runs behind the tank and into the firewall.

What is this FFT-FFF-FFT Sound?
 

My most recent project-within-a-project has been to overhaul the cooling system in the X5. It has a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, expansion tank, expansion tank cap, upper/lower radiator hoses, and fresh BMW coolant.

I was having a problem with it running hot, but have not gotten it out on the road yet to see if the cooling system overhaul did the trick. The last time I drove it, I noticed a strange sound but thought it was a bad idler pulley on the serpentine belt. I replaced the pulley when I did the cooling overhaul, but noticed the sound was still there so I listened a little closer.

I have my suspicion of what it might be, but I want to get some other input before I go there. I shot a quick video with my phone and the noise can be heard every time I rev the engine. I'll quickly rev it to 2,000-2,500 RPM and you can hear the "FFT-FFT-FFT" sound each time? Any theories about what it might be?

I tried to embed a video I uploaded to YouTube, but can't get it to work. So here's a direct link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_5gQpTYfzE

Well boys and girls, it looks like I'm going to be replacing the head gasket on this project car after all.

When I bought it, I knew this might be a possibility and figured it into my offer price. I just hoped I could avoid it.

After installing all the new cooling system parts, I took it for a test drive. I just drove back and forth on the street in front of my neighborhood. After about 10 minutes everything was looking good and I thought I was golden. As I turned back into my subdivision, the temp gauge started to climb and just hit the red as I pulled into the driveway.

I popped the hood and could hear the coolant boiling in the expansion tank. And even though it was tightly capped, coolant had still sprayed past the cap. There is no doubt that the cooling system is being pressurized. The FFT-FFT-FFT sound also got worse as the engine warmed up.

I did go ahead and drain the oil, though. Lots of water in it. It was very thin and runny, too. I changed the oil filter and filled it with fresh oil. It's probably going to take a couple of oil changes to get it cleared out.

Next week I'll get the head pulled and take it to a machine shop. I'm interested to see what it looks like since it's already been off recently. And to be on the safe side, I'm going to Timesert the block while I'm waiting for the head to come back from the machine shop. Fun, fun, fun!

:/

Going to have a look at a rod bearing? Good luck.

Jeez, I hope not! :)

I assume you will be checking the block for cracks and flatness?

You assume correctly! I'm not taking any chances!

Alex, I'll take "Who Needs a Head Gasket for $1,000", please:
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/VC_Yuck.jpg

Yuck!

Not pretty

Looks like you have plenty of mayo to spread on your sandwich later LOL


Sorry to hear man, why didn't we suggest popping the valve cover off previously? haha

That's a sandwich I wouldn't serve to my worst enemy! ;)

Does anybody know of a source to rent the VANOS fixtures? I know I'll need them when it's time to put it back together.

besiansystems.com for VANOS stuff I think, you should do the new seals while the VC is off

I've bought several Besian kits in the past, great stuff. Is he still around? I just tried the site and get a page saying the domain is for sale. What's up with that?

RB gave you a bad link... A$$HOLE ! :p:

Beisan Systems

Ah, phew! He's still there! :)

Lol I didn't mean it to come up as a link, damn auto-linking! I figured he would just google it anyway, sorry! :D

Busy afternoon, ya'll!
 

I had only planned to get as far as removing the oil filter housing and VANOS assembly. But Fast 'n' Loud was a rerun and I was in a groove. If I'm being honest, though, the job was a little bit easier because whoever did it last time cut a lot of corners putting it back together. Lots of fasteners are missing, including the entire intake manifold support bracket - the one that attaches to the block near the motor mount.

I kept a list of missing parts as I tore it down and will order all the bits after I get a health report on the head. One thing I found odd is that there was a big tear in the intake boot where it attaches to the idle control valve, but the engine ran fine and didn't throw any fuel trim error codes. Weird. :dunno:

Anyway, I hope to hell that I can remember how it all goes back together!

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/hg_job_1.jpg



http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/hg_job_2.jpg

I'm thinking that this might be a good time to pull the ABS module and send it off to be rebuilt. It hasn't been throwing any errors, but has been soaking in coolant for who-knows-how-long. It's very easy to access right now, so there will never be a better time to do it. And it's not like the car is going anywhere any time soon!

So I pulled the head last night. Almost none of the head bolts were tight. Especially the ones around cylinder #6. In fact, I could have removed those with a 1/4" ratchet!

None of the holes in the block look stripped and there weren't any shavings on any of the bolts. It may be overkill to timesert the block, but I think it would be crazy not to. So I will anyway.

The head gasket itself was starting to de-laminate. I can easily pull the layers apart.

Although this is not a job I wanted to be doing, I'm glad that I am. I'm finding all kinds of problems from the last time it was done that need to be corrected. For example, all of the exhaust manifold nuts/studs were reused and the nuts are rusted solidly to the studs. So instead of being used like they're supposed to be, they were being used like bolts. It wouldn't surprise me if the head bolts were also reused.

But I did find something that I'm worried is going to be a big job to fix. One of the plastic timing chain guides is broken. I've never had to replace one and it looks like the front casing needs to come off to get at it. I haven't looked for a DIY yet, so hopefully I can find one. If anybody has done the job and has any pointers, I'd very much appreciate it!

Oh, Fuuuudddddgggggeeeeeee!
 

I just found out why the head bolts were so loose. Every single hole for the head bolts has a helicoil in it! So now my wallet is $400 lighter after ordering a Big-Sert kit from Timesert.

The adventure continues…

Now you know why the car was abandoned.....they thought it needed a new engine. They did not know about Timecerts.

You do what my friend Steve did and you'll be good to go with a nice ride.

It will be worth all the time you've put into her.

I was thinking the same thing.

Funny story: The car was abandoned at a repair shop south of Atlanta for over a year. The shop manager called to tell me that two days after I bought it, the previous owner showed up to pick it up. He made quite a scene when he found out it had been sold and demanded to see the paperwork authorizing the shop to legally sell the car. When he was given the paperwork he accused them of faking it and called the police. One of the documents they showed him was a police report. The officer took one look at that and basically told the guy to pound sand.

Moral of the story: Don't leave your car at a shop for a year, ask them to babysit it indefinitely, and then expect to just walk in and pick up your keys!

In case there was any question in my mind why the head bolts weren't tight, this pretty much sums it up:
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Helicoil.jpg

These things are barely 1/2" deep. No way that's enough thread! I'd LOVE to know what the guy who installed them was thinking...

3.0 L head bolts are M10 x 110 length. From memory, the engineering rule of thumb is two or three times the shaft diameter for the threaded engagement (for something with lots of pressure like a head bolt. Five turns for minimum engagement, ten is better, I can't remember any more beyond this (too may years since university).

You could consult to see what an engineering manual will give you but I'd expect the longest Timecert (actually you now need Big Sert as the block was previously Helicoiled) for an M10 bolt to be 20 mm or 30 mm.

The Big-Serts are 24.5mm deep. The rep I spoke with assured me that will be more than enough. They are engineered specifically for the job of securing head bolts.

The Neverending Project…
 

It's been a while since I've posted any updates because I've mostly just been doing busy-work for the last couple of weeks while I stockpile parts and tools. Also, my actual income-producing job has been keeping me pretty busy and I haven't had much time to work on the X5 or make Internet posts. Ironic, since my day (and-sometimes-night) job is developing Internet content.

Anyway, I get the impression that whoever worked on this car last time went out of their way to deliberately sabotage it. It seems like every time I find a problem and attempt to fix it, I find another problem buried within. But I think that I might *finally* be past the turning point and can begin to reassemble the engine. Here's to hoping!

After I pulled the head, I discovered that one of the timing chain guides was broken. To replace it, the front lower timing cover has to be removed, which requires removing the harmonic balancer. It's obvious to me that the timing cover has already been removed by the previous mechanic. Which, of course, begs the question: Why the f@¢k wasn't the chain guide replaced then? So, I had to buy the special holding tool to lock the harmonic balancer while removing the center nut. While removing the timing cover, I found that one of the bolts going through the oil pan and into the bottom of the timing cover was cross threaded - which means that I'll have to re-tap the hole. See what I mean by deliberate sabotage?

Here is a photo of the new timing chain guide after its simple snap-in installation:
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/...hain_Guide.jpg

While the timing cover is off, it makes sense to replace the front crankshaft seal. It's not showing any signs of leaking, but it would be nuts to leave it in service since a new one only costs about $6 and it's so easy to replace with the cover on the bench.
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Front_Seal.jpg

Here is the Big-Sert kit as delivered. It's a really nice bit of kit - and ought to be for what it costs!
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Big-Serts.jpg

Here's an installed Big-Sert. Installation is a bit unnerving. Drilling into the block with a HUGE drill bit can make anyone nervous - I don't care who you are. It took an entire day to install all 14 inserts. But those bad boys are tough. There shouldn't be any more head bolt problems now.

The installation instructions say to cover the top of the engine with clear packing tape to prevent shavings from getting into the engine - a great idea. The tape is still on in the photo.
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Insert.jpg

I had some time to kill, so I cleaned up the outside of the engine as much as I could.
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Cleaned_Block.jpg

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Cleaned_Pistons.jpg

The last of the parts should be here this week and maybe I'll get to start putting it back together this weekend. If the Car Gods smile upon me, I might have it running again by next weekend. I say a prayer in the morning facing toward Spartanburg, SC in the hopes that it will win me some favor with them! :D

Don't forget the $4 oil filter housing gasket while its opened up! Looking great on progress man, you have huge balls to do all this (I hope you literally got this X for next to nothing for all the work you've done)

On page 1, belated Wilkommen!

Thanks for the reminder about the OFHG! I already have the gasket on hand. I usually have a couple of them "in stock" all the time anyway. It's such a common replacement item that I sometimes include a couple of them when I order parts.

I thought I was getting it for a really good price when I bought this X5, but now I'm not so sure. I always look for cars that I can add value to, and there will be plenty added to this one!

Oh, and I can assure you: just slightly above-average sized balls. :)

Love all the pictures! Enjoying following your project along.

Any updates, do you have the engine together and the car running now?

Yes! Thank you for asking. I've been extremely busy with work (actual, pay-the-bills work) so I haven't had much time to work on the X5, or post updates, though.

But I do have the engine back together and running. I've put about 300 miles on it since the top-end rebuild. I'm still chasing a few little issues, but it's mostly sorted now. But I have to say that whoever worked on it last time really screwed it up. Actually, there is a more appropriate way to describe the job they did, but children might be reading this so I won't say it. When putting the cams back in, a couple of the nuts for the bearing caps wouldn't tighten. I thought the studs were stripped so I ordered a complete set of studs to replace them all. Thankfully they are cheap, because it turned out the problem was that the holes themselves were stripped - just like the ones for the head bolts. One even had another frikkin helicoil in it! So, just like for the head bolts, I ordered a Time-Sert kit to repair the stripped holes. I thought it would be smart to check the exhaust studs while the head was still off and, you guessed it, more stripped threads. More Time-Serts to the rescue.

I can't get the Check Engine light to stay off because there is a fault in the O2 sensor heating circuit. I am getting a code for all 4 sensor heaters. I replaced both of the pre-cat sensors when I had the engine taken apart and the code is still coming up, so it's not being caused by the sensors themselves. I'm going to check the fuse and see if it's blown. If so, I need to trace all the wires and try to find what's causing the fault.

There is also a very loud and annoying squeak in the rear suspension that I traced to a bad ball joint in one of the upper wishbones. The parts are on order to replace that.

I had to replace a leaking seal on one of the front driveshafts, so I went ahead and drained and refilled the front diff. I didn't have enough oil to do the rear also, so I ordered a couple more quarts of Red Line 75W-90 and a bottle of D4 ATF for the transfer case.

I also just noticed that both foglights are burned out, so that's on my list. I also have to get the display for the MID rebuilt due to excessive dead pixels. I had the same problem with two E39's.

The last item on my list is a 4-wheel alignment. I had to replace both tie rods and did a DIY alignment and it actually seems to track fine. But it still needs to be done by a pro.

Here are some photos of the engine going back together. Plus a bonus that my wife took! She thinks that maybe I get a little too much into cars. Maybe she's right…

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/reassembly_1.jpg



http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/reassembly_2.jpg



http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/reassembly_3.jpg



http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/reassembly_4.jpg



http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/reassembly_5.jpg



http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/reassembly_6.jpg



http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Me.jpg

Wow that's alotta work!

Congrats on getting it going!

Yeah, no kidding! :) But it's fun. I am a web developer in my day job and this stuff is so different from what I do all day that it's very therapeutic for me. There is something very satisfying about spending a day getting covered in grease and oil and then having an actual motor vehicle that can be driven around afterwards.

Good work. Now we, ATL X5 owners, should meet up.
Plz hit the ENTER key after every img code. Look like a huge panorama right now :D

Pics fixed! Good suggestion.

If somebody wants to set up a meet in or around ATL, post it up somewhere. I think that would be a great idea.

:iagree:

Great work. :)

I want to buff those headlights so bad LOL!

Green Goblin mod ftw! :p

Impressive work!

:agree: It is great to see someone that really gets into his work and still has fun.

Come on over! I'll have all the stuff ready for you ;)

Persistence pays off. Nice outcome, although it's a shame that someone really mucked up SO much on the engine. I wonder how it started, but you'll likely never know. Given the history, you'll likely learn "more" when you sort out the 02 sensor fault issues.

I assume you've changed oil in both diffs, transfer case and transmission as well. Given the jaded maintenance history - it would be prudent.

In the end, you will have a car that you can trust - as you've sorted it out so intensely.

Project Update
 

I think (hope) that I'm pretty close to having this X5 sorted out. Since the last update, I have changed the oil in both diffs and the transfer case (Red Line 75W-90 gear oil and D4 ATF, respectively).

I have also changed the automatic transmission fluid and filter. On colder mornings, I noticed a slight slipping in 1st gear when pulling away from a stop. It would go away after a few minutes - by the time I got out of my neighborhood. But needless to say, it had to be addressed. The old ATF was nasty - most likely the factory fill. Changing the fluid cured the slipping and also noticeably smoothed out the shifting.

I had the MID display rebuilt. Now I can see what station is on and what time it is! One of my past E39s also had a ton of dead pixels in the MID and I bought the kit to fix it myself. The kit was about $60 and after several attempts, I could not get all the pixels back. In fact, the more I tried the worse it got. I ended just up buying a used MID with a good display to replace it. Instead of taking the chance of blowing another 60 bucks and still having to replace the MID, I just sucked it up and paid someone to do it. It cost $100 for the rebuild, which is a tad pricey to me. But it works perfectly, so I suppose it was worth it.

I had to put a set of tires on it almost right away because the ones on it had cords showing. Ever since then, there had been an annoying vibration in the steering wheel. I came across another set of wheels/tires on Craigslist for $100! I swapped them out and the vibration was gone. So it was definitely in the tires (and not the suspension, as I feared). I took the original set back and had them rebalanced - vibration cured! An easy fix, for once!

Replacing the upper control arms in the rear suspension cured a very loud and very irritating squeak. The outer ball joints were completely rotten and binding badly.

I still haven't been able to find the problem with the O2 sensors, though. I did some troubleshooting and it looks like maybe the post-cat sensors are the problem, even though the error code says it's all 4. None of the obvious stuff is the problem (broken wire, blown fuse, etc), so I might just replace the sensors and hope for the best. They do not look OEM, so maybe that will take care of it. If not, at least it'll be one less variable to deal with!

I am happy to report, though, that it passed its first torture test. I had to drive up to Atlanta (a 2 hour ride for me), and then get from one side of town to the other on the Friday after New Years day. One part of the trip was a 5 mile drive that took over a half hour. Then, on the way home there was a 20-mile traffic jam on I-75. No problems whatsoever on the trip. Yay.

And finally:
http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/Polished_Light.jpg

Better? :)

I may have to drive down to Perry and have you buff out the minor fogging on the top edge of my headlights! :) Short of that, any tips? I have used the 3M kit [using a powerdrill] successfully on other vehicles.

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

So the big question is, after all the work and money put into it, did you come out with a bargain on your wallet or what?

LOL, bring it on! I used the SYLVANIA Headlight Restoration Kit. Advance Auto Parts and Autozone both used to carry it, now neither one does. I ordered it from eBay instead. Doing a search will find lots of folks selling it for about $25. I just followed the directions that came with the kit, except I augmented the polishing phase by adding some Mequires Plasti-X polish and used a power drill. I think the key is the clearcoat that is included in the kit. That really gives the lights a great shine and keeps them from going dull again.

That remains to be seen. Because of all the engine work it needed, I went about $1500 over my budget. I'm really hoping that when it comes time to sell it, that I will get somewhere around $7500 - $8000. If I can pull that off, I'll come out slightly ahead if I don't factor in the time I spent doing the repairs.

Anybody want to buy an extremely well-sorted E53 X5 3.0i? :)

Wish you the best on the sale, after all the work you have done. FYI, I helped my son in law get a 2011 black on tan 2001 auto 3.0 inspected and up to snuff [with only 80k or so miles on it] in Houston; with the pre-purchase repairs [cosmetic, cv joint, etc.] He paid $9900 for it.

I sold my old 2001 3.0i which need nothing for $8k with 105k miles last August.
How many miles on yours?

Unbelievable, ya'll!
 

OK, so I think I finally solved the ongoing problem I've been having with a Check Engine light that won't stay off. In a previous post, I said that the problem was related to the heater circuit for the oxygen sensors.

For those who may not know what that means, most modern cars (BMW included) have multiple oxygen sensors. In the case of most 6-cylinder BMWs, the exhaust manifold is actually two separate manifolds. Bank 1 collects the exhaust for cylinders 1-3 and Bank 2 is for 4-6. The catalytic converters are actually part of the exhaust manifolds, so there are also two "cats". Then, there are two exhaust pipes running to the back of the car.

There is an O2 sensor in each of the exhaust manifolds before the cats ("pre-cat", or "upstream") and one in each of the exhaust pipes after the cats ("post-cat", or "downstream") - 4 total. These sensors must be a certain temperature to operate properly and are thus heated electrically until the exhaust reaches a sufficient temperature.

During the engine top end rebuild, I replaced the pre-cat O2 sensors because I had to remove them anyway - so it just made sense. The error message I was getting on my diagnostic computer was telling me the problem was with the heater circuit for all 4 sensors, which didn't make sense because 2 of them are brand new. But I tested them anyway and they were fine. Stumped, I decided to also replace the post-cat sensors thinking that maybe there was some kind of wiring problem that was somehow interfering with the heaters for the pre-cat sensors as well.

Upon installing the new post-cat sensors, I found the problem. Holy crickeys, how did I miss this?! If you've been following this thread from the beginning, you will recall that I do not have a high opinion of the mechanical skills of whoever worked on this car before I got it. Well, I have more evidence of this person's ineptitude. Turns out, the post-cat sensors were plugged into the pre-cat sensors and the electrical connectors that are supposed to be plugged into the O2 sensors were plugged into each other! :wow: So, the O2 sensors were not even connected to the car's ECU and the circuit itself was being short circuited. And somehow I missed this when I replaced the pre-cat sensors! In my defense, though, I never unplugged the connectors on top of the engine (the ones that are supposed to go to the post-cat sensors). So it's understandable that I could have missed it. But damn, I could have saved myself a ton of aggravation (and a sizable amount of money) if I had found this sooner.

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/x5/O2_Sensor_WTF.jpg

142K-ish

LOL awesome

After all the work you have done I wouldn't kick myself for a set of sensors you would have needed at some point anyway.

GLWS if you decide to.

I have my X5 up for sale. It'll be interesting to see what kind of response I get at my asking price…

FYI: 2001 BMW X5 3.0i - 80+ Photos - All Options!

and

2001 BMW X5 3.0i - WBAFA535X1LM66835

I really like the car and am sad that it's time to sell it. I really enjoy driving it, and just looking at it. I will probably seek out another one once it's sold. I'd love to find one with a manual transmission and Sport package!

You have certainly done a fine job fixing that one up. FYI, my son in law bought a 01 3.0L auto in Houston, TX last summer, half the miles, for $9900, what we thought was a good deal [and the vehicle is holding up fine]. Knowing Macon, I expect you'll have a tough time getting your asking price in that market.

Given your obvious skills, a manual 3.0L E53 would be a great choice for your next project.

As an aside, we drove down and saw fine Bluegrass [Dailey and Vincent] in your area, at the Hawkinsville Opera House, last Saturday - great show and neat place! Noted the big national jr. livestock show at Perry, but didn't have time to stop ......

I know my asking price is ambitious. But, it is a very nice car, and there aren't many in the area that are cheaper (I checked). And the ones that are cheaper, are nowhere near the level this one is at. So I'm optimistic :)

My folks used to live in Hawkinsville, so I know the area. It has really been growing over the last few years. It's surprising, because it's always been a really small town.

Cleaning it up really helps for sure. Plus the stack of receipts from the work you put into it helps. Just don't direct them to this thread lol, they'd be scared seeing pics of you walking in the engine bay.

The right buyer will come along with a fair offer I suspect.

BimmerM3, your posting this vehicle for sale led me to view your sale pix and read back through the thread over lunch. You have really done an amazing job fixing the previous 'professional' repairs and turning this into a very nice E53. Kudos. For grins, I also did a quick carsdotcom search for manual E53s for your next project. Unfortunately, sellers there don't know a manual from an automatic and routinely post autos as manuals - you look at the cabin pix and see PRNDL on the console. Sigh. If I see a good project manual E53, I'll pass it on. As mentioned early in the thread, we ought to do an ATL X53s meet-up, too. Perhaps coordinate with the local BMWCCA chapter ...

Thanks for the kind words, Riggodeaux! It has been an interesting project, for sure. This is the first project car that the total of repairs equals more than what I paid for the car itself! But it was a great experience, I've picked up a few new tools, and learned a new skill or two.

You are absolutely correct about the inaccurate listings. I have been actively shopping for the next project and always hope there is a photo of the center console because 9 times out of 10, the listing will say "manual" but it's clearly an automatic. I think that some people view the Steptronic "manual override" as an actual manual transmission.

If you happen to come across a manual E53, I would love to know about it. I'm looking, too. And I still agree that a meet-up would be a great idea - even if I don't have an X5 at the time. I've tried to set things up with the Peachtree Chapter before, but have never had any success. I guess because they are mostly in the north metro ATL area, and I'm way down here in hicksville, it's too much logistics to set something up. :(

Beautiful work man! I've got the same hobby as you do... or I used to until I've been too buys with work lately. I've bought some e34's and an e39 and done the same type of work. I did basically all the same work you did to the e39 I picked up. Was fun and was nice to pass a good car onto someone that could have been parted but didn't really deserve it.

I actually just bought a 01 4.4 White on Black Sport that is a big project, but I'm going to keep it, as its optioned how I like.

It's a great hobby, but definitely not for the faint of heart. I've done a couple of E39's which is how I have the nerve to take on the X5. They are similar enough that I figured I'd be able to handle it.

White over black is a great combo - one of my favorites! What's on your to-do list?

And welcome to the forum. It has been a great resource for me. Now I feel like I know these cars pretty well. So as you dig into the X5, if you need any pointers just ask.

I'm thinking I need to locate a stick shift E53, get it down to Perry for BimmerM3 to do the hard work, then sell it with nothing for his labor. Sort of a GA version "Wheeler Dealer." :)

LOL, good luck with that! Maybe I should change my name to Edd…

I'm heavy over on bf.c as well, mainly in the e34 section but used to spend some time in OT. I grew up pulling down engines on Pro Mod Drag cars and etc, so nothing really scared me, its just a matter of my time and if its worth doing, but I really enjoy messing with BMW's.

As for the X I picked up... Its having a low mileage used engine put in at the moment. :rofl: I'd do it myself, but I'm too busy at the moment, to under take pulling the whole front clip apart to yank the motor properly. Also its winter here in MI. I've got a friend who owns a big indy bmw shop so I'm having him pull it out the correct way underneath along with doing some odds and ins while the motor is out. The car needs some cosmetic help (nothing major), will need new wheel liners as they are all full of heavy tar. (will try to clean, but we'll see.) Needs a factory radio, has some stupid tv pop out thing. Needs a hand full of interior trim replaced, needs a serious detailing in and out, some exterior trim needs repainting which I know how to do. It has a set of 87's on it with new rear tires, and good front tires, not positive whether they're reps or not, but I believe they're real. I'll refinish them due to heavy curbing. Once all of that is done, I'll probably pony up for the 4.6is front and reap bumper trims.

Back in like 04, and I was living with my brother, he had an 01 4.4 sport in silver/black and from time to time I'd drive it and just loved the hell out of it. I drive a loaded up big ole f150 which is nice, but I can't wait to have this thing detailed out and enjoy it year around when the weather isn't too terrible. I don't drive my other bmw's that much because the roads here in MI aren't all that great and during the long winter they are kept covered with battery tenders on them.

You should consider paying for a premier membership to show your appreciation. Then you can post a note here that your vehicle is for sale.

Looks like you've got a major project on your hands - definitely more than I took on! Keep us posted as the project progresses.

Hint taken, membership upgraded! :)

Good on you :thumbup:

I'll post a thread similar to yours once I get the ole girl home and start to tinker with it. Can't wait to start detailing on it.

^Good luck with your project, kesslerbmw. I like the style87 and running board on yours.

BimmerM3inGA, GLWS.

Cool! Can't wait to see it and how the project progresses.

You must have seen it on BF.c. I'll post a thread here once its home.

No, they'll be scared away when they get on the site and read all of the potential problems that lie ahead...lol!:rofl:

:iagree: I always detail any vehicle I sell until it looks and smells like it is new and have the receipts available.

It depends on the buyer if I offer the receipts. Most buyers assume the cosmetic condition parallels the mechanical condition. Receipts are a big help for those that have done their research, start talking about another BMW they have owned or start looking at things like tire wear, oil leaks, etc.

Well, I sold the X5 this afternoon. The final selling price was $7150. Lower than I wanted, but I think it was fair. It's going to a 16-year-old girl as her first car.

For those of you keeping score at home, if you don't count the $725 I paid for the title transfer and a couple hundred bucks for tools, I cleared about $850. Not a huge profit considering the amount of manual labor involved, but I did go about $2000 over my budget. So I can live with it.

Now, on to the next one…

That's a fair price. What next?

I think so, too.

No idea what's next. I'm trolling now to see what's out there.

The X5 has been gone for a little over a week and I am having a severe case of seller's remorse! I just caught myself looking at the pictures again. I never thought I could get so attached to a truck. But there it is!

I need to find a new project quick. :)

Get yourself an "iS" and keep it this time ;)

Hoping you will post your next buy to resell project.

Got my eye out, looking for manual E53s, your perfect next project!

Well guys, I have my new project. Unfortunately it's not an X5, so I don't know that I'll be able to post updates here.

I picked up a 2002 530i Sport Package from an estate sale about an hour from where I live. Overall, it's a pretty nice car, but it does have some problems. It suffers from all of the common E39 maladies, including a faulty ABS module, dead pixels in the instrument cluster and the radio display (MID), broken window regulators, and various oil leaks. It also has a very noisy rear wheel bearing.

The elderly previous owner passed away recently and the car was being sold by her family. Judging by how the car smells inside, I'm guessing the cause was lung cancer. The car reeks of cigarette smoke. I've been leaving the windows rolled down (well, the ones that WILL roll down) to try to start airing it out. I have a plan for getting rid of the smell, but I'm definitely open to suggestions if anyone has a technique that's been successful.

An interesting side note is that this is first of my project cars in a long time that actually made it to my house under its own power. I can't remember the last time I didn't have to scramble to find a trailer and tow vehicle! My wife went with me to get it and we had a nice adventure - even the part where I made a wrong turn and took us 30 minutes out of our way.

I've already pulled the ABS module out and sent it off to be rebuilt. And my buddy Chris at German Audio Tech in California gave me a great deal on repairing the cluster and MID. I shipped those off this afternoon. I wish I could fix those parts myself (I've tried), but I just don't have the touch for it. Besides, I really want to get this car turned around quickly so I can get back on the hunt for another E53. So I figured it would be best to defer to a pro on some items.

I don't normally like green cars, but this one is a somewhat unusual color that I had not seen in person before. And I kind of like it. I'm also really digging the two-tone interior. It's different from the black-over-tan or white-over-tan that I usually see. The M5 wheels are also a nice touch, although I strongly suspect that they're replicas.

Anyway, wish me luck on this project! And if anyone happens to know someone who's parting out an E39, please let me know. There are a few things that I know I'm going to need.

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/200...BMW_530i_1.jpg

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/200...BMW_530i_2.jpg

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/200...BMW_530i_3.jpg

http://www.creative-pro.net/cars/200...BMW_530i_4.jpg

Congrats, M3 - actually a nice color, and sportsitze are always nice, though those appear to need a good leatherique treatment. Those do appear to be aftermarket wheels, not what you see on 2002 E39s at bmwstylewheels.com. Shame its not a manual. Manual E39s are quite nice; we had a 1998 silver on silver the CEO regrets having made me sell, circa 2006 ..... That cig stench will be a resale obstacle for you, I don' t know what will get it out of the carpet/leather/headliner. You might check the detailing forum for suggestions.

Sure you can. Start a new thread, in the Other BMWs subsection. Everyone who can see it here in the E53 section can see it there.

Good to know!


I'm going to take the seats out and soak the carpet with deodorizer. The headliner is pretty nasty and the pillar trim is peeling, so I will most likely re-trim all of that stuff. I think doing that will go a long way to freshening it up. I'm also going to disassemble the center console and clean all the nooks and crannies.

A few years ago I did an E46 323i that smelled just as bad as this one. I took those steps and got rid of nearly all of the odor. If the car sat parked in the sun for a few hours, there was a faint whiff of smoke. But nobody who test drove it made any comment about being able to smell it - and I got top dollar for the car. Hopefully I can pull it off again with this one…

Congrats on the find. 530i with sport pkg.
You have one of the rare color combo for the E39. Stone Green/Slate Green interior. Those wheels look to be reps though.
What parts are you looking for?

Hey man, you want to really get rid of the smoke smell in the car?

You need an ozone generator. Probably will take more than one treatment as well.

Amazon.com - Commercial Air Purifier Cleaner Ozone Generator with UV Cleaning -

Watch Larry @ AMMO NYC's video as well.

Interior Smoke Removal Tricks: Mercedes AMG G55 - YouTube

Hey Ricky Bobby, I had heard of something like that ozone generator, but didn't really know where to look for one. Thanks for the link!

I know I'm going to need the cover plate for the shift lever - this is the part that has the PRNDL markings and LEDs. The one in my car is broken and all beaten up. I also may need the trim piece around the instrument cluster. Mine disintegrated when I removed it to pull the cluster. There will probably be some other interior and trim pieces that I'll find once I start taking things apart. I'll make a list as I go. :)

M3, you might check with these guys over in Bogart, GA - local source of used BMW parts:
Bimmers South, Inc. - Home

I vaguely recall looking to get an E36 smog pump from them, but ended up getting the part from the big bimmer used parts source in California, whose name escapes me.

Time for that new thread?

Great links!

If you read RB's posts, you'll know his head is usually in the ozone layer .... :)

LMFAO!!

Hope those were helpful, ozone is really the only thing thats gonna kill the smell.

You guys are too much! :)

I'm definitely going to pick up an ozone machine. I can't hurt, right?

I have started a new thread [ here ]. It would probably be best to comment there from now on…