All 6 cyl missfire with multiple codes. Idle is rough and loosing the torque power.
 

Just completed scanning process on 2003 6 cyl with 118K miles on her.We exctracted muliple codes:
238, 240, 239, 202, 203,228,227,241,242,243.
All cylinders missfire indicated on the scanner.
Sounds like a cat converter? But before I wanted to get in touch with everybody within our community and ask what do you think.
What else could it be?
Car rides noticeably different then before. Power is not the same but still going 60-80 with some hesitation.
I could feel when in park or idle engine missfire.
I took some screenshots and will upload them shortly.
Thank you!

well... misfires (if there are real ones) - start with plugs, then coils... if plugs were not replaced within last 50Km miles, they can be replaced as a preventative maintenance, regardless if they are culprit or not... if the coils were not replaced within the last 100K, they can also be replaced under the preventative maintanance... if those things do not resolve the misfire, then the wiring to the coils... then, the DME...

what about those screenshots? you got them?

Yes. As I promised the screenshots are posted. I took two screenshots because display on the scanner could not fit all the codes. Please take a look.
Thanks again!

still... no screenshots

Here they are. Sorry, the images were too big to upload. Took a few minutes to resize.

what software is that? carsoft?

It is Snap-on, just updated to the latest version two weeks ago.

[QUOTE=TerminatorX5;955791]well... misfires (if there are real ones) - start with plugs, then coils... if plugs were not replaced within last 50Km miles, they can be replaced as a preventative maintenance, regardless if they are culprit or not... if the coils were not replaced within the last 100K, they can also be replaced under the preventative maintanance... if those things do not resolve the misfire, then the wiring to the coils... then, the DME...

Ok, I bought NKG plugs. Will replace them today or tomorrow. I will post the result.
Thanks again

Based on the fact that all cylinders are reporting misfire, this sounds like a massive vacuum leak to me. I'd check for any loose hoses, especially near the intake, and do a smoke test if you haven't already. How many miles are on your X?

It has 118k

See post #29 in the "GOOD INDY SHOPS NATIONWIDE". I just bumped it to the top.

Just wanted to post a quick update. After doing more diagnostic we discovered that it is running on lean mixture. So, I will update the details as soon as we get to the bottom of the issue and fix it. Talk to you soon.

There's a DIY for verifying fuel pump/pressure regulator function. All you need is a $20 fuel rail pressure test gauge from Harbor Freight.

Need it bumped to top?

You have an I6, check the Disa Valve. Two torx screws and one electrical connector is all it take to remove the Disa Valve. When you remove the Disa valve, note the effort it takes to pull it out from the intake manifold. There should be some resistance. If it comes out easily, the seal is no good. You can buy a new Disa valve or you can use an o-ring to replace the old seal. Also check the flap and make sure the pin that secure the flap is still there.

You can find out a lot about the Disa valve by going to the Youtube channel and doing a search.

During the process checking DISA valve I discovered a tear in the hose that is located below the DISA.
I just wanted to confirm that it is lower intake boot, isn't it?
Interesting how it was not noticed during mechanics inspection.

Yep that the lower intake manifold boot, also a common source for vacuum leaks.

Here's a link to another thread on the same issue.

http://www.xoutpost.com/956702-post2.html

Did this come on all of a sudden, had you noticed it for some period of time or did you first learn of the misfire when you did diagnostics?

Hi,
It began with esl indicated on the dash.
And the same time engine loosing power and misfiring. It was strange.
After completing diagnosis codes that I attached with the pictures I began my journey to trace the issue with all the sources
I should stop at nearest dealership to buy the part and replace it.
We'll see after that. I hope it would resolve the problem. I will keep you posted

Please keep us posted if replacing the intake boot resolve your problems. There are many X owners that comes on this forum asking for help, but most rarely post the solution to their problems once their problem is fixed so the thread is worthless for future owners with similar problems.

I bought a new hose at local bmw dealership for $15 and began replacing it.
What a pain to replace it. But it was replaced within 1 hour. We disassembled the air intake to get a good access. I ended up using a blade to cut the torn boot so I can access the clamps to loosen the bolts.
Also I checked the VISA valve. We could not pull it out. It felt like something got stuck inside and was preventing to slide it out. After carefull examination we discovered that flap was not in the right place. It was broken and loose. We were very careful removing it and got it all out, the plastic flap, the mounting pin and the remaining parts of what left.
The new boot was installed much faster and this time I placed the clamps so the bolts are facing me . This way I have a good access next time if needed.
I will be shopping for a new DISA VALVE to complete this project.

Nice update and good approach so you are not buying parts you don't need.

Yes. It took me a couple weeks to get it done and find the nature of the issue.
I can feel a big improvement the way my car rides again. It definitely has more power. I hope that installing new DISA part will eliminate the entire problem

Hopefully you found the metal pin that was at the top of the DISA Valve. If not STOP driving the truck. Remove the intake manifold and locate the pin or else you going to end up with rebuilding the engine top end if you're lucky or installing a use engine if you are unlucky.

The metal pin was not loose. Actually it was sitting tight where it should. It was the top part of U- housing that was broken. Everything was carefully
removed.
I looked online and found price starts from $170 and up.
At the nearest dealership it is $280 wholesale price.
Are those for $175 on Ebay good or I should avoid to buy them?

Damn I sold a perfectly good DISA Valve with a brand new o-ring for $40.00 plus shipping to a member on this forum. And some people on this forum thought that I have ripped him off by selling him a bad DISA Valve. Next time I selling parts on eBay instead of to members on this forum.

http://www.xoutpost.com/945255-post23.html

I ended up ordering DISA valve on EBay. $176 for the valve sounds good. The local dealer wanted $280 wholesale price.:wow:
I will let you know the progress.
As of now after replacing the hose I feel that driving got imporved.
The only one thing that I do not like is that RPM drops when the car sits on idle. I could feel that shake on RPM below 1000. I guess it is because of DISa valve not working properly.

The DISA valve arrived this Saturday. After comparing the original and the new one that was made in Taiwan I could not find any differences.
It was replaced in 5 minutes (easy job). No more engine shake on uneven idle. The sel light was on and I planned to stop by at my friend garage to check the codes again.
To my surprise, today on Sunday morning When I started my car, engine light was gone. It turned off by itself I guess.
I am enjoying my Bimmer ride again.
Thank you all for you support and recommendations.

It turn itself off because the computer was not seeing a lean code P0171 or P0174 that is normally associated with a bad DISA valve. Thanks for posting back your result on the forum.

You also can use this repair kit on a worn down DISA instead of getting a new valve:

German Auto Solutions M54 DISA Repair Kit


My DISA is in good shape still at my low miles of 70k, so I just replaced the O-ring on the valve for now so I didn't get any leaks. However someday down the line I will do the full replacement kit

:iagree: I would be reluctant to fix the existing DISA. I would replace it with an OEM or OE as I think is a good practice with anything that is involved in regulating the engine. The repair kit is said to be a longevity upgrade but the stock valve lasts a long time. If the upgrade kit means means the pin falling out risk is eliminated that could be worthwhile but my take is that it is primarily a less expensive route.

The repair kit does take the "pin falling out" syndrome away :thumbup:, and fixes a few other design flaws, which is why I'm a fan of it as long as you don't let your stock valve get to the stage where the housing is cracked or you lose the pin in the engine lol!

I agree, the stock valve should last a very long time, and I think the repair kit is a good value to be sure that it lasts as long or longer than intended.

Makes sense.