| bcredliner |
10-12-2013 07:21 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5
(Post 959194)
When you torque the shaft nut to 45 ft/lbs with a standard socket during installation, the only accessable area of the shaft is the precision ground area below the hat. Not a fan of directing DIYers to do that when the correct tool costs so much less then the strut.
Those with access to a wire EDM machine could cut a window in a deep reach 22mm socket, If the special tool was too pricey I was prepared to do this.
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I'm completely in favor of having the right tools and since I expect to continue to drive BMWs I am going to purchase that socket the next time I do struts.
As for using vice grips, as you noted, that was the shade tree way in the good ol' days. For me, that was when there was no way I would buy a special tool. I either made what I needed, borrowed it or found a home grown workaround. I shouldn't have mentioned it at all--oopsie.
As you know, X5 struts take an allen wrench in the top of the shaft. I use an allen wrench to hold the shaft and an open end wrench to remove the nut. Same way for the install. You ask how do I torque it--Since it is a locking nut I use Kentucky windage torque imbedded in my pea brain byt tightening the nut before I remove it to see how much effort it takes to get it to move so I know how it should feel when I tighten the new one.
The only reason I mentioned it at all is that sometimes DIY is a budget necessity and/or special tools will never be used again so an optional workaround can have merit.
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