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anyways, here are the fuses to pay close attention to:
F27 F60 F14 - resolved F41 - has direct impact on to the wipers once you have eliminated those fuses as potential issue, then we can move to other modules that control specific functions... or, you can try to repair the GM... just keep us posted about your developments... :) |
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half of your car will not function without the GM module... however, i am not sure if the GM affects the drive-ability... definitely, the alarm, the locks, the other things should not work... does the removed module smell like something burnt inside?
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if you haven't sent out the module, try to stick it back in and see if the new fuses help - it is Sunday and the post office doesn't deliver on Sundays anyways...
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another quick way of checking fuses without taking them out ,is put your meter on dc volts with the battery hooked up of course and probe each side of the fuse contacts on top of the fuse ,if you have voltage then the fuse is blown Ive been doing it this way for years hasn`t failled me yet.
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by leaving the fuse in place touch the meter leads(meter set at dc volts greater than 12v) to each side of the fuse at top you if you don`t get any voltage reading means fuse is good, but if you get around 12-14v means fuse is blown make sense? hope this is a bit more clear.
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interesting concept that clearly should work - but what if the suspicious fuse is fed though another fuse that is blown for real? would that not give an impression that tested fuse is bad, while in reality, another fuse is bad, upstream?
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each fuse should be on their own circuit right so it should work all the time and it has for me. .so what your saying is there could be 2 fuses linked to the same circuit then I could see that being a problem ,but ive been doing this way for over 20 yrs .
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