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Thanks. I've looked before but haven't seen brake caliper paint. Wasn't sure if the high temp spray would be high temp enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiAgX5 (Post 974084)

Looks were secondary for me too.

These are made/machined in the USA, 300 series iron. I did a 100% inspection of flatness, parallelism, runout and dynamic balance. Everything checked out.

These come with a 1 yr warranty, if they did not check out I planned on returning for a refund. If they crack I will return them.

I've done two 12 stop cycles from 50/60 mph to 5 mph near ABS activation, to bed/mat'l transfer the pads/rotors (allowed full cooldown between the two cycles). After about 5 wks of use I went out and did a series of +100 mph to 10 mph stops (early am, empty hwy).

No cracking or issues.

Sounds good. I'll check into them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by racingbmwm3 (Post 974098)

You say you don't drive fast so don't need the extra performance, and you are planning to have dark colored wheels, just stick with the OEM. (ATE, Jurid, Textar) You seem cost conscious, so why pay the extra money for ceramics if they won't really benefit you?

I also don't see the benefit of cross drilled rotors, else all supercars and 'tuned' factory cars would use them. They had their place when they first came out because of the outgassing from old style pad materials, but the modern ceramic pads don't have that problem anymore and the holes reduce the swept (functional) area of the rotor as well as introduce the possibility of cracking that doesn't occur on solid rotors. But, cracking typically doesn't occur until the rotors are worn and probably should have been replaced already...to me it falls in the category of cold air intakes and oversized exhausts :)

Ok. As far as cross drilled it would be for looks mainly. Just as buying black zinc coated rotors would be only to keep a good look. And for the ceramic I hear they don't shed the dust as much. I hate nasty looking wheels even if they are just stock. To me it brings an otherwise nice looking car down. I try to weigh the quality vs. looks. If the quality is way better and the looks are low I buy the quality stuff. If it mostly equal I go for the looks. :thumbup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by X5Cat (Post 974224)

Anyone know if there is anything I can spray paint my brake calipers with that will not burn up and catch fire? Are the super engine enamels not super enough for the heat generated by brakes? I'd sure love to dress mine up without actually replacing calipers.

They sell a spray paint used to paint outdoor cooking grills.
I'm guessing thats high heat enough.

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[QUOTE=racingbmwm3;974186]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIMMER_BLUEBLOOD (Post 974115)

anybody know a mechanic talented enough to do a brake retrofit with the Big Brake OEM for an e39 onto a e53?? [IMG]

OEM big brake kit being the M5 kit? this was on another thread here. stock 4.4 brake rotors are thicker and nearly the same diameter. You would probably have to machine a custom caliper bracket as the compatibility of the brackets is unknown between the E39 and E53, the only shared brake component is the pads and caliper. That is of course if the rotor hat is compatible with the steering knuckle of the E53. It's easier to just get a 4.6/4.8 brake setup which was larger than any other vehicle of that era (unless you count the E60 M5 or M6).

@bcredliner
Mclaren must have figured out their mistake. This from the new P1 hypercar:
http://db2.stb.s-msn.com/i/D3/98AB87...98_w598_m2.jpg

If you consider the addition of brake drying (similar to the Bosch 8.1 BMW now uses), that allows for wet weather intial bite with solid rotors, then yes.:dunno:

With automatic brake drying solid rotors/pads grab the instant the brakes are applied, just like drilled/slotted rotors on non brake drying equipped cars.

Quote:

Originally Posted by X5Cat (Post 974243)

Thanks. I've looked before but haven't seen brake caliper paint. Wasn't sure if the high temp spray would be high temp enough.

I use VHT header paint, no problem with the heat.

I have Akebono ceramic pads all around on my X5. Tried just the fronts since the rear pads were still pretty meaty. Mistake. Braking never felt right until I put the Ake's on the rear too.

Dust is nearly invisible on silver wheels.

I'd use something other than BBQ grill paint. It only has to deal with 500 or so degrees F. Header paint or other high temp paint made to deal with much higher temps is probably a good idea. If your X is loaded and you have to whoa it down in a hurry, you'd be surprised how hot brakes can get.

Yeah, never a good idea to mix pad compounds front/rear. As bad as mixing tires IMO.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiAgX5 (Post 974440)

Yeah, never a good idea to mix pad compounds front/rear. As bad as mixing tires IMO.

Meh. Did it all the time when I was racing and wanted to change the brake bias (valves not allowed in my class of racing). Tight track and need the rear to rotate, use more aggressive pads on the rear and trail braking becomes real easy. Almost 70's 911 Porsche-turbo like if you get too carried away. :wow:

For the masses, you point is valid. I knew what to expect, but the release characteristics of the different pads just made it 'icky' to drive on the street. Couldn't get a smooth stop so I just put on the Ake's on the rear and all is good now.

:thumbup:

I should have said for street/DD use, mixing pad compounds is not a good idea.