Oil leak: Dealer says it's the oil cooler seal??????
 

Not sure I have the correct term but thats pretty much what they said was leaking. Anyone know where this is located/diagram ?

Dealer is charging me 850$ ( parts 11$ + 5 hr labor). Does this sound fair?

Not sure which one of the X's you refer to, but here's the oil cooler. In front and below the radiator. The pipes have an O-ring where they fit in the cooler - diagram. Maybe these are bust.

It's for the e53 (4.8).
Thanks for the diagram. 5hr labor time??? Wow that doesn't sound right.

Hello , hope this helps. On that V8 engine on the L/S of the engine where the oil cooler supply and return lines connect. There is a plate which also holds the mount for the alternator. There is a gasket between the engine block and 2 "o" rings for the lines. The gasket between the engine block and mounting plate is a common spot for leakage. To see the gasket in question check on real oem and go to group 12 for engine electrical then click on alternator mounting. It will show the gasket that needs replacement. Its a fairly involved job thus the high labor low parts price. Good luck. Jeff

So it's part # 2 (p/n 12317507808) in the diagram below. Realoem list the part 1.48$, but not cheap to replace......

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/r/h/207.png

Yes , there are also 2 o rings for the lines and 2 o rings on a thermostat assembly attached to that plate.

Thx for the info guys. Wanted to make sure the Dealer wasn't ripping me off too much....

You are welcome , good luck.

BTW, I just noticed.....welcome to the forum Daspud :thumbup:

Mine is also leaking there and I need to replace the entire plate. My case is a silly goose one- while replacing the alternator, I broke the bolt hole where #7 points to. The other alternator bolts hold the alternator fine but now that the leak started, it's an opportunity for me to replace the plate. Planning to do this project during the summer.

Do it sooner than later.... I was lucky one morning my car didn't start so I knew the battery had to be changed for a new one so , at my job, I got permission to take it inside the warehouse to change the battery cause it was freezing outside. When I took the car outside after changing the battery, we noticed the huge oil spill probably half a pint. What started out as just a few drops , quickly got major. I probably would have drove off a few more times like that and damage the engine. Funny thing, the low oil level warning never went on.

:iagree:
Agreed and I carefully check oil almost everyday to be on the safe side. Glad you mentioned low oil level warning, I swear I saw it is programmed off. I saw this using NCSdummy/NCSExpert and found it rather strange but left the setting alone. This was last year. I'm going back and turning it on! Yours is probably programmed off too. Hopefully it's not some stealer plot!

Thanks for the welcome.

Hey hello Friend ! Nice to see u back... Personnaly i just avoid visit at the stealers .... I have 2 good INDY in our Area - i can PM....in my case my X maintenance remains within good range .... Paid my X 19k value new 70k...the math works :)...

Oh man, that would be great if you could send me that info. The indy i was trying did not deliver the first big challenge i took to him. So i'm in desperate need of a reference.

I really love my X and will need to bring the cost of maintenance down a little or i'll have to sell the 4.8. The e70 doesn't give me as much trouble but i doubt it'll stay that way from what i read.

Ok here you go:

1. Centre E.C.S. 450-978-0069
Mécanique automobile, Garage mécanique automobile, Garage Automobile, Débosselage et Carrosserie automobile, Laval, Quebec
2041 rue Berlier H7L-3M9

2. Atelier Mecanique (Peter)
(450) 625-1588 - Laval

Marc

Thanks bro... :thumbup:

Yeah, just give it a bit more time. It will "learn" from your 4.8is. :D

Update:

Just to keep this "story" alive and for your amusement, dealer called today saying they were unable to finish the job today. Of course this meant: "Sir, we know you brought in your X on Wednesday 18 and we found the problem immediately but unfortunately , for reasons we still can't explain at the moment , we were unable to have your car done. The other bad news is that we are closed tomorrow for the holiday and will only be back on January 6 "

The quote was for 850$ and they offered to do it for 700$ for the trouble. It's not much but I'm happy with that. Plus the service manager told me they made a mistake that supposedly it's not a 5hr job but rather a 9hr job.

Lots of respect for this dealer , no arguing. I understand shit happens but at least they make the effort to make it right.

So, how did it go? I'm starting this repair now since the oil leak seems to be getting heavier. Did they replace the seals for the oil cooler lines and thermo? There should be a total of 5 seals including the large one that is said to be the main leaking point - part # 12317507808 (labled #2 in the realoem parts diagram).

Everything is just fine now. No more oil leak. Dealer did it so I can't comment on how hard this job is but keep us posted and I'd be interested in some pics if you can take a few on your DIY..... Good luck!

I'm now stuck at removing the last bolt! Everything went smoothly until I reached that one last bolt...seems the front differential needs to be unbolted and moved a little to the side to access that one last f*&*&%%$#@@{};%$ bolt :rolleyes: I've pointed it out in the picts.

bmw doesn`t make it easy to work on these things ,over engineered.

Yes. You need to remove front driveshaft and unbolt front differential. Than use two pry bars and slightly pry differential out. About 1/2 inch. You will be able to rotate diff clockwise and get that last bolt out. I just did this job 2 month ago. If you have any question please PM me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BTW , Welcome to the forum.... :thumbup:

Can we get DIY for that seal replacement?

Wooooohoooo! Eureka! The Lucifer bolt is out!!! A big shout to Axgordon for his guidance and encouragement- I was almost giving up and ready to have the X towed to my Indie. Thank you very much, sir. :thumbup:

This project is a P-I-T-A and not for the faint hearted. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I'd rate it 10+. To me this project seems like a very challenging video game with traps everywhere blocking you from proceeding to the next level. The initial levels are easy and just when you think you're almost done, trap! And thereafter it's trap after trap! It's as if the designers of this engine deliberately made things very difficult to access and tricking you along the way;)

I heeded Axgordon's advice to lift the engine from the top and remove the front driveshaft and unbolt the front differential. Then use two pry bars and slightly pry the differential out about 1/2 inch. I was then able to rotate the diff clockwise and get that Lucifer bolt out. What a pain! And for good measure, I had to use an "S" wrench since regular wrenches wouldn't fit. All these additional steps just to remove that one bolt! Trust me, there's no other way as evidenced in the picts of that bloody bolt location in my earlier post. TIS and Bentley are deafeningly silent about the alternator bracket.

Here're a few additional picts.

:bow:

Welcome to the forum!!! This must be a First. Most first time posters come to this forum seeking help for their BM Trouble U. You on the other hand offer advice to a member that was having problem with his BM Trouble U. Hope that you will continue to post help.


:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

I'm about to attempt this over the next few days.. what gaskets do i need other. So far this is my list

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...38#11427520214
11421702917 2pc O Ring for oil cooler connections at alternator housing.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...42#12317507808
Gasket 1PC 12317507808

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=17_0293
2 of number 3, O-ring 13,4X1,78 4 17222245358 $1.18

Did you replace any seals on the differential?

Do you have any important pointers?

1. disconnect battery
2. remove electric fan
3. remove alternator belt
4. remove alternator
5. remove plastic and metal skid plate.
6. remove plastic wheel wells on driver side.
7. remove drive shaft between Transfer case and front diff.
8. unbolt top bolt of driver side motor mount.
9. unbolt front differential.
10. lift motor on driver side.
11. pry front differential to gain 1/2 inch clearance to rotate differential clock
wise to gain clearance of hidden bolt.
12. Unbolt oil coolant lines,
13. unbolt alternator backet
14. replace seals
15. everything in reverse.

Is it necessary to lift motor on driver side to rotate differential clockwise?
Will the subframe be in the way?

I wanted to resurrect this thread. One of my cooler pipe is leaking oil through the metal connection that connects the rubber piece of the entire unit.

https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/a/BMW...7_0293.html#02

Part number 1 is leaking. and its leaking at one of those tabs that the number 1 in in between.

is replacing the pipe itself an easy job?

If the leak is only where the hose meets the metal tube you might be able to crimp it tighter with a cable clamp or something similar.

The actual clamp rotted out that crimps on to the rubber part. I've never seen anything like that.