FYI........

I just checked my brake lines and junctions without having to remove the very large black plastic shield used to cover the fuel filter and tanks.

All the lines were clean and rust-free.

All I had to do was unscrew the 10mm screws from the long plastic sill cover running from the LHS front wheel arch to the LHS rear wheel arch (no need to remove all those plastic one-use rivets from the edge), then pry the cover down about 2-3 inches from the inboard side.

This allows a fairly clear view of all the fuel lines and junctions. There would even be enough space to spay some anti-rust coating on the lines, if necessary.

The whole inspection procedure took about 30 minutes!

Whens this happening? Your over a year late :nanana:

Should we bring the soon to be newbie e53 owner to the darkside now or wait til he takes possession to reveal all these things?

Wait until ownership takes place.

This is not a bad idea - does your vehicle have the aluminum running boards? I might even but a big bulk pack of those push-rivets and just replace them and check it twice a year

Yes Ricky Bobby, I have the aluminium running boards. But, there is no need to touch them or the plastic rivets.
If you are only 'inspecting' the brake lines and applying anti-rust spray, you don't need to remove all those single-use rivets.
Just get right under the car, locate the LHS long and narrow plastic cover under the sill; then remove the line of 10mm screws (from the bottom of the front wheel arch, backwards); then forcefully bend it down about 2 inches to allow a torch-lit view of the lines and junctions.
The cover won't break, and will spring back to its previous position, when you are finished.
If there is no corrosion, you have saved yourself the hassle of sourcing and replacing all those rivets every time you want a look!

Do you want to remove and send me your running boards???:dunno:

^^Shipping might be expensive LOL

Bump old thread. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2fb0e4e035.jpg

Just pulled my two rear brake pipes today. An emergency stop to avoid a deer 160 miles from home found the weakest spot in the "made of rust" lines.

I'll be fabricating full replacement from scratch and also will be cutting some cleaning/inspection holes in the protection shield before replacing.

I will also be making said holes in wife's since her car is 12,000 miles behind and was garaged I'm hoping I can just scrub the rust use some naval jelly to un-rust the pipe and coat with something like plasti-dip or such.

FYI once I determined the brake line leaking was rear, I topped off the fluid and drove the rest of the way home. I did some test stops using only the e-brake and almost all freeway driving at 2-5am I needed to use the brakes only like 7 times. I didn't get low fluid light the rest of the trip.

I'd use POR15 on them.

some helpful tips i've found for other that blow a rear brake line:

1. Right line use two 10mm fittings, is 2436mm long (exatly 8ft)
2. The left pipe is 3020mm long (10 ft), and uses 12mm and 10mm fitting.
3. The line is 3/16" or 4.75mm
4. use nicopp line for ease of bending
5. you must use ISO BUBBLE flare; get the right tool
6. $150 for pre-cut terminated lines
7. build your own for $60 for both (including the tool!)
8. you must remove the under belly cover
9. to remove, there are over a dozen single-use rivets; push the center in to release
10. to remove the whole pipe you also need to remove the rear wheel well.
11. if there is non-rusty pipe forward of the rear wheel, it will be FAR less labor to cut the line and add a splice
12. see my review of the iso bubble tool on amazon to see a video of how to use the tool and fix the factory defects of the tool