Liqui moly/lubro moly
 

Looking for this seemingly legendary flush for bmw, but no one in this backward country seems to carry it. Any clues for a American trapped in the People's Republic of Canada?


Times like this I miss Texas. Warm, and full of guns and religion ;)

I get mine from eBay, the seller was in CA, but the flush (and the oil) were shipped from Harrisburg, PA (of all the places!!!). Check with the seller about cross-border shipment, maybe he will ship...

good luck

Yeah, I figure ebay is my only hope. :P

Consensus of engine flushes like these?

I like Lubro Moly. I've used all their products. Most important, in my opinion, is the anti-friction additive and gear oils from Lubro Moly. Love them all and use them in the X5 and all my cars.

For those who do not like additive and follow the manual, keep changing your oil every 15k miles and check the oil level at every petrol fill-up, like the book says.

I get mine from either NAPA, or my local indy shop, (sells to me at cost :)
go online to their website, and see who their local rep is, and see if he will drop off a couple cases to test out!! :)

15k miles and your oil will deposit in your engine, 10,000kms is good
I bought my x5 from a guy who changed his oil when the dealer told him to and when I did the valve covers there was a lot of burnt oil on the top of the heads @ 95,000km

IMO 10,000kms
or 3-5 months depending on climate


and I would use ATF as a engine cleaner, mix it with you oil when you do you next oil change and the ATF will clean the shit out of your engine, just do another oil change after 1 full tank of gas

How much ATF?

I'd put in about a cup of ATF to start if you're going to go that route. Shitload of detergents in there so it should clean it out nicely.

I use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 which has a decent amount of detergents since it was designed for diesels, so I'm fairly certain my engine is kept clean each time i'm driving it LOL

Sounds good to me. Still have some ATF left over from the PS flush, so will use that. Do I use it as an in-place flush, or do I drive around with it in?

Sometimes I'd grown up working on cars instead of remodeling houses. :P

I'd put it in, drive around for a day or two, and park it the next day after driving it and change the oil hot with a new filter, and I'd replace the oil filter cap at your mileage as well.

Try autohausaz dot com. A good source for bmw maintenance items, and source for my recent order for filters, etc., which included the MOS2 antifriction oil additive. I expect they can ship across the border .....

Found a place here that carries it! :)

Hmm.. yeah, I should replace the cap, too.

Should I swap out the CCV and hoses before then, just so I don't go fouling my oil with whatever's gunked up in there?

Up to you, doing just an oil change, or adding a CCV job is two totally different scenarios. Are you having CCV problems now? I'd run that oil change and engine flush through before changing out the CCV, see if it helps.

You have a lot of kms on that vehicle. Do you have service history indicating whether a ccv replacement has been done? Have you lifted the valve cover to check appearance to assess whether its gunky? absent symptoms, particularly this time of year in the cold blue north, I would run the Lubro Moly cleaner through the system [add to a warm crankcase, idle for 10-20 minutes, then drain] then do the oil change w/Lubro Moly additive. And wait for Spring before going further, unless I had a warm, well-lit garage [and plenty of time] in which to work .....

and maybe use the high-detergent Pennzoil Euro Ultra oil with the change, to maximize cleaning during the next oil cycle, which you might want to make relatively short ....

Hmm... good points... I suspect CCV issues because of filler cap mayo lately. The CCV hoses look like they've been around a while. The VCG was done prior to my purchase, but don't know whether the dealer bothered to clean up in there. The oil got dirty real quick after changing it 2k km ago, so I suspect there's some yuckiness going on in there.

The oil in there right now is Castrol Edge 5w40, but I'm looking at other options including the one you've mentioned, as well as LubroMoly and Rotella. Whichever way, I'll change the oil again in the spring just for cleansing purposes.

i bought 20 liters of LM 5-40 oil in 4 jars, 5 liters each... cost me about $140 delivered... I had two empty 1qt bottles from Castrol synthetic oil, so I poured two qts from one of the LM jars into the small bottles, which gave me about 3 liters left in one jar, took it to local Jiffy Lube, had them drain the old oil, put my OE filter i got from my dealer (about $15), and put about 8 liters of LM into the car... 8 liters is slightly under the full capacity of V8 but is still within the operating range of the engine... In couple of days I've checked the dipstick on hot motor, the oil was in the middle between the notches... checked in couple thousand miles, was at lower notch, added 1 qt from the "saved" bottle, it brought the level to middle mark... checked in couple thousand miles again, at bottom notch - added the second "saved" bottle... will be changing the oil in couple of thousand mile from that point, which puts me at 6000 miles interval... this time I do not have any additives in the engine - i had run LM engine flush on two occasions and the Auto-RX... at the last oil change the Jiffy Lube guys thought that i was dumping fresh oil, as the old oil still looked good...

ordered my LM oil online, was delivered by UPS in 2 days, even though it was the Super Saver...

I can look up the seller on ebay and PM you the name

Not recommended.

If you use a good quality oil, you don't require additional cleansers. On the other hand, if a vehicle has been badly abused and the engine is dirty, then trying these cleaners is an alternative before opening up the engine, especially since it often isn't worth opening it up.

Downsides are potential reactions and damage to seals, gaskets, and plastics, and the risk that crud that is loosened shifts and does some damage.

Since the cleaners can bring all the contaminants into suspension, the usual practice would be to add them to the old oil, run the engine for 15 minutes or so but don't take it above idle, then drain it out and put fresh oil and a new filter in. I wouldn't leave it in and drive it.

"Since the cleaners can bring all the contaminants into suspension, the usual practice would be to add them to the old oil, run the engine for 15 minutes or so but don't take it above idle, then drain it out and put fresh oil and a new filter in. I wouldn't leave it in and drive it."

That's the protocol for the lubro moly cleaner product. The oil additive - included in the 'clean' fill - is a moly supplement rather than a cleaner. The higher detergent oils [the Pennzoil Ultra Euro, or even more so, Ricky Bobby's diesel fave, Rotella T-6] add to the cleaning during the next oil cycle. If the vehicle has been abused, really gunking up the engine, agree that these aren't the cure, but that doesn't seem to be the OP's issue.

I thought that the OP's issue was that he wanted to buy a flush product (ie a cleaner, not an additional additive), and that he wanted a Lubrimoly product because of reading good things about it on the web. And the web is never wrong. All this despite the fact that he had no symptoms that he was trying to fix, and may cause more problems that he solves in using this product on his high-mileage engine.

This is apart of course from the original problem of being a good ol' boy from Texas stuck in the backwoods of Canada. Poor boy. :rofl:

If the quest is for an additive for the clean oil, recommend not using them. Just buy decent oil. Doesn't have to have moly, there are lots of comparable additives, but some have moly if that is what people want. Adding a different additive package in to an engineering fluid like a modern engine oil is pretending to be a better chemist than the oil company engineers. Any additive is just as likely to worsen the oil as improve it.

synthetic oils have cleaners in them you realy don`t an addictive to clean the engine ,the oil is doing that for you .

Oh, there were symptoms... like oil being dark in just 2000 km... pointing to a dirty engine ;)

No connection. Oil colour is used by disreputable oil change shops to sell service work. In reality oil colour has nothing to do with it being fit for service. If you had a diesel the oil would be black minutes after changing it.

Oooh...

QFT!

I have "rescued" two vehicles now using Seafoam. First a SAAB-a known unit for sludge- it would only run well enough to get on trailer to get it home. I lifted a liter of oil out and put Seafoam in, put it on fast idle up to 2500 for 30 minutes. It just kept getting smoother and running better- finally there was no no lifter noise and it ran like a top. Similarly bought a bargain 01 X5 with obvious problems- took a chance that it was Vanos and oil. Tried same trick and 30 minutes later no noise and running smooth. In both instances that was my first trial of Seafoam. I use T6 since reading about EPA mandating the reduction of additive packages in all oils designated for use in gas engines-T6 being designated diesel should be good.

Good stuff too. Used their transmission additive and hard shifts went away (different vehicle).

As Riggodeaux mentioned, I'm a T6 man myself. The 5w-40 weight is perfect for all seasons for me here in Jersey.

Heh, I went to school in Jersey.

Looks like the cap mayo stopped forming since the t-stat was replaced, and after a good burping, the heat is toasty and the truck is acting right. Will probably still change the oil next week, since I usually do a few short interval changes whenever I buy a used car. Going to try the moly, as I found a can of it yesterday.

RE: seafoam, I 'ved used it on a few vehicles. Once I made the mistake of putting it in the tank, crankcase, and brake booster line of an old Subaru outback in the parking lot of Canadian Tire in Georgetown, Ontario, aka Snitch-ville. Holy Shiite, there was a HUGE cloud, so I crept the car around to the back, trailing a massive wake of smoke. In less than two minutes the cops were there, but I shut her off in time to go unnoticed.
Stickin it to the man! :stickpoke

Don't use ATF. It produces a bunch of ash when it burns. Not exactly what you want…

FCPeuro.com has all the Liquimoly stuff. I've had good luck buying from them.

An engine flush would go into the crankcase and only be there for a few minutes. I don't see the reason for a concern about ash.

Now if we were discussing fuel system cleaners....

I see your point but I don't think they put a time limit on ATF in the crankcase and you're going to get some blow by.

Besides, everyone knows that you put automatic transmission fluid in power steering systems, like dog intended! :rofl: