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Short Shift Kit & Clutch Delay Valve fix
Picked up the sig. vehicle today at UUC. The new EVO-3 SSK installed, and the clutch delay valve deleted and replaced with UUC's replacement. Initial impressions are very positive. The CDV delete makes a huge difference, and I'm very pleased with the shifter engagement using the SSK. I'll report in more detail next week after I've driven it a bit. BTW - they bill six hours to do the install, so if you have access to a lift or are able to spend the time on a creeper and have the experience/skills to do the install yourself, it will save you significant coin. I understand Greg in Switzerland has been shipped his kit and hopefully will be able to fill in the installation details.
More to follow next week. |
After driving a couple hundred miles, urban and country, I am very much impressed with both the CDV delete [eliminating the annoying hesitation, particularly when starting in first] and the UUC SSK. This is my fourth stick shift bimmer [E28, E36, E39? [1998 528i], now E53]; the E53 was the worst [though nothing mechanically 'wrong' with the OEM shifter], and the SSK makes it easily the best shifting bimmer I've driven. It even compares favorably to the six speed in a 2005 SLK 350 benz roadster sold last year, which was easily my favorite stick. Short, concise shifts, no confusion on the gates. Combined with the CDV delete, this makes for a marvelous shifting manual transmission. This is a fairly expensive upgrade [book/billed 6+ hours], unless you do the work yourself. Look for Greg's post on the install process when he does his.
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Looking forward to Greg's install thread, if this is a DIY install from under the vehicle I might definitely think of investing in the SSK, if only from a standpoint to make my E53 that much more rare than most, did you also replace any other bushings during your install Riggo, to give a factory fresh feel?
I agree on CDV delete, should have been done from the factory. My E53 has had it for years, I never drove with the CDV, but I can imagine it would be terrible! |
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Edit: Goodness. That was 14 years ago. Yowza. :yikes: |
Wow- 6 hrs labor? I thought it would be intensive but not that much so.. I think being able to do it by oneself will be the factor for most people considering it. With the already steep price of the albeit well-built SSK, and then 500+ in labor... Just isn't feasible for me to replace a properly functioning, but pedestrian shifter with this one. I'd love to see some pics of it installed though- curious how much the overall height was reduced. +1 on the CDV- night and day difference. Enjoy!
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Awesome! Excited for more. Please sling some pics up for us!
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I understand you can adjust the height, but mine is at stock. Pix of the installed shifter don't capture the value of the SSK. That said, since removing the wood-wrapped shifter knob loosened its plastic connection to the shaft, I sprung for the pricey leather wrapped aluminum [heavy!] shift ball, too. Call me a spendthrift. I'll post a picture with the comparison to the original shifter & knob. I expect the labor charge(s) are from the BMW 'book', not reality, but thats the economics of the car repair biz - and the reason I try and do this stuff myself when possible. From the Pelican Parts E36 instructions [the best I've seen] and those on UUC, I think this is doable from rhino ramps, etc., without a lift, by a shade-tree mechanic, but lets' see what Greg in Switzerland has to say.
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Here is my original, OEM shifter knob; the UUC SSK shifter with fancy machined aluminum, leather-wrapped shift knob to follow as soon as I remember how to downsize a .pdf or .jpeg ......
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Looking forward to seeing what knob you used!
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Here it is with fancy knob. It has the six-speed shift pattern engraved in the aluminum. Sorry for specks of dirt/dust/grime around the parking brake ....
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Nice looking knob! You just may have convinced me to buy one, if I can get replacement silver trims it would look slick with a short shifter.
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Remember, young padawan, performance we seek, appearance is incidental.
I'll speak with Rob at UUC sometimes this week. From my invoice, I don't see that the gearshift rod joint [12], 251-117-580-281, was replaced on mine; I believe the securing clip [11] and replacement delrin bearing sleeves [02] are part of the SSK kit, if you plan to do this install yourself. I'll ask Rob. Suggest you review the UUC website instructions for the E39 version, and the detailed Pelican parts install instructions for the E36 kit, to see what you are getting yourself in for [pending Switz. Greg's report] to install this yourself. |
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Wow I did not know that they had actually started madking the SSK for our cars. They list them as in stock is that really the case? i assume my '04 has the CDV in it as it seems unlikely any PO's removed it but I guess I haven't actually checked. I would def want to do the SSK myself. I cannot imagine it would be worth it for me to pay someone IMO.
My question is how does the short shift affect the force needed to engage the gears. As of know it just drops into place and I like that but smaller lever arm = more force so I kind of wonder if that is noticeable? Personally I do not really like the look of that shifter it doesn't look oem to me and the aluminum and curvature doesn't match anything else in the car. |
I think the shifter arm is counterweighted so its a more solid shift, they do show as in stock on UUC website. If I recall correctly there should be a stock weighted BMW shift knob which would work nicely if you wanted to weight your knob a bit more.
Still waiting on some DIY impressions... |
Since I had one installed last week, its in stock :). The shift ball shown in my picture is optional, and expensive ($135). You can use a stock knob, including the one you already have, though the plastic in them holding to the shaft tends to strip when removed - the only reason I sprung for the $135. It takes less 'push' to engage the gears, in my judgment. I would have preferred to install it myself, as Gregory in Switzerland will soon do, but time/cold/unavailability of a lift convinced me to let the pros [the manufacturer's own shop] do it. See my earlier post with driving impressions.
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I can look at my old 'stock' knob, but I think it has plastic ridges/clips inside which 'grip' the shaft - its the ridges/clip that degrade, and can leave a loose knob.
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I assume that since they did it for you you do not have any pictures to compare the geometry of the UUC unit to the stock unit? I'm just kind of curious to see what all they changed. I kind of wonder how much they lengthen the bottom end. I wouldn't mind finding a heavier shifter with a more stock appearance.
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Patience, young padawan, and read earlier in the thread. You should have pix/comparisons when Gregory in Switzerland does his DIY install. All that 'shows' in the interior is the thicker aluminum shaft above the leather boot, if you stick with the stock shifter knob. And you can certainly read all about the UUC shifter at its website and in the Pelican Parts tech articles, albeit not for the X5 specific variation of the concept. I'm not sure what you mean by 'heavier.' The machined aluminum shift knob [an extra] is certainly much heavier than the OEM plastic/wood trim knob; pushing through the gears doesn't feel 'heavier;' I expect, but don't know, that the SSK shaft is 'heavier' than the aluminum/thermoplastic OEM shifter.
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Heavier = more mass. Heavier shift knobs tend to make pushing through gears easier as they have more mass /momentum with them. At least that is how I understand it.
I feel like were putting a lot of pressure on this greg guy, you can do it greg haha. Seriously tho I haven't followed the progression of these things or even seen what the SSK for our x5's actually contain (wondering if it has other wear bushings etc. to refresh things). I just read through a couple diy's for e46's and E39's it seems like it should be very doable. . . Far as I am concerned nothing can be worse than spending 2 days under a semi / toterhome pulling a 800 lb transmission out and lifting a massive 150lb clutch up from under there. That is just me I may be wrong. We'll see what old greg has to say not trying to be impatient, but hey isn't that what the internet is for? |
The new setup looks wicked! I may have to ask my Indy what he'd charge for an SSK install...
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I may just get under the car this weekend and let you boys know how accessible the shift linkage is from under the car.
According to riggo, most wear pieces of the linkage are replaced with the kit, which is nice. Should give a "tight shifter feel" again. Greg is in Switzerland so give him a few days for shipment and a few days for install lol! |
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I found struggle getting a clip to slip- where it is unseen- over the linkage, but I eventually lubricated it to the point that my next effort took only seconds to finish. All of this sounds oddly similar to an experience in the reclined passenger seat of a 1975 2002, but it was in a very, very distant past. :bawling: |
I have looked up at the underside of the transmission tunnel. 6 hours to install the kit.... uummmm.....no. We have quite a bit of room too. I have spent days underneath my e30's and e36. The e53 gives you plenty of clearance under there. Tricky part is the selector joint. I will be installing my Schmiedmann custom short shift kit as well as my own version of UUC's DSSR just as soon as my shop space is freed. Not a 100% sure why UUC didn't release a DSSR for the e53. Guess I'll find out first hand. If mine turns out well, I will make/machine a few more units exclusively for my manual e53 brothers.
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Now that's what I'm talkin about man! How much modification did you need to do on the Schmiedmann piece, why the dssr wasn't released for our cars I don't know either, I'm guessing production volume. If/when I get my ssk you can count me in on the "Green Dragon" special lol!
Is it weird that when I see your user name I just want to be a Power Ranger and summon my Dragonzord? |
Gregory in Switzerland seems to be a long-time bimmer guy and reports having done a couple of shift kits before, so I expect he will be a helpful source once he gets his in. My impression is that the trickiest part is the 'blind' fitting of that retainer clip. Haven't had a chance to speak with UUC Rob, but my understanding is that the oval bearing sleeves (02 in the realoem diagram] at the end of the shifting arm are replaced with delrin in the kit, and that the Gearshift rod joint (12) is the other usual wear item replaced. From my invoice, mine wasn't, perhaps because it was in good shape. As I noted earlier, I think the billed six hours comes from the BMW 'book,' which is how shops generate revenue; I expect the actual install time for a skilled shadetree is less than that [though everything always seems to take me longer :)], and someone who has done a couple [with small, agile hands] can knock it out. I wish I had had time to do it myself, but, not having done a shift kit before and having limited time/garage/lift assets, left this to the pros. I'm never happy with the bill, but sure am happy with the results!
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Had my followup call with UUC Rob today. Key points: They don't sell a DSSR for this application because of clearance and installation issues. With the two point mounts on our shifting arm [the bearing sleeves, 02 on the Realoem diagram], unlike older bimmers, you don't have the torque/wear issues requiring delrin bushings, so they don't replace them as a matter of course [or include them in the kit]. Apparently, delrin in this application can generate vibration you don't need. Finally, they didn't replace the gearshift rod joint in mine [12], often a wear itme, because it was in good shape. Another point: I had them replace the diff/transfer case and Manual transmission oils, and I commented how much smoother the drivetrain seems to run. Rob attributes this to their adding LubroMoly antifriction additive [LM2019 on my invoice]. Something those changing drivetrain gear oils might consider.
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Gents,
Riggodeaux mentioned a 6 hour labor bill. Remember that he had a NUMBER of things done: UUC short shifter kit installation, CDV removal (which also would include a clutch fluid change, good timing), rear diff fluid change, transfer case oil change, transmission oil change and front diff oil change (which requires removal of the pan under the engine). Unknown what else was done. As others have posted, the driveline tunnel on an X5 is big - not what I remember when I started back in the days of the 2002. I would expect the shifter is a two to three hour job. Can't comment (yet) as mine is still in the mail. The comments about the Delrin carrier bushing being a less critical item as it has two mounts is logical. I've done this on two other cars (E30 & E34) with single point mounting for the front of the shifter carrier. I will post after kit arrives and is installed. Again, this will be my fourth short shifter: E12 M535i - Metric Mechanic in '95 when this was almost the sole option E30 325i touring - UUC (Evo 2 design, pre DSSR E34 525i touring - UUC (Evo 3 design with a DSSR For those waiting, have you changed your transmission fluid and installed Redline MTL? Did you add a magnetic drain plug (since BMW stopped installing them in late 1997)? The combination are very cost-effective and will also give your transmission longer life. |
hi Greg :wave:
Thanks for chiming in. Looking forward to your impressions upon receipt. I changed my fluid to Redline MTL at 62k miles, did not change the drain plugs out, but I will probably do that at my 100k transmission/differential/driveline fluid change, I do driveline fluids at about 40k intervals. |
Okay well I pulled the trigger on this. I know I should change my fluid at the same time but that will probably wait till I do my spring fluids refresh. I won't want to do this if I keep adding things to the job.
Anyways near as I can tell the potential wear items that will not be replaced by this kit are the two bearing sleeves for the shifting arm to tranny connection, the rubber grommet on the "bearing shifting arm" (25111434625), and the shifter rod joint (25117580281). From what Riggo / UUC says the bearing sleaves are of no concern since this has two mounting points on the tranny. I believe that but at the same time they are only $4. The "bearing shifting arm" is $20 and the shifter rod joint is $17. So I'm looking at around $55 for all this to be shipped. I need some opinions on this. If it's a waste of time and money to replace them then I won't get them but if it may be beneficial I would hate to not take this opportunity to replace these things. |
How many miles on your X?
Riggo has around 65k or so if I'm not mistaken, I have 71k. Perhaps at 130-150k or so that joint and such much need replacement due to wear, but I'm going to just install the shifter the way it is. Worst comes to worst replacing the rod joint at a later time shouldnt be difficult. |
I got 83k now. I just bought the joint. Its $16 really not worth doing it later imo.
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True. I'll prob pick one up from the dealer as I need a new top windshield gasket anyway, no biggie to put a new joint in at time of install.
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Nothing like waiting till the last minute to place my order, but sale is on till midnight, so my Evo3 shifter should be coming in soon, at $320 it's the most I ever spent on a short shifter by far, but considering it makes my X that much more rare I thought it was a worthy investment.
I have read and re-read the E39 instructions many times and I have come to this conclusions, someone correct me if I'm wrong on this install: http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/l/u/196.png -All we are doing is removing 6,7,8 with the Evo3 assembly. #1 does not get removed, and #2/#12 area is the portion that is not touched on our installs because of the dual mounts on the shifting arm (no Delrin replacement), and no DSSR install. -Pop off the bottom lever with clip #11 (a new one is provided), place the new bottom machined bushings onto the bottom of the shifter where #11 connects, and reconnect new washer/clip Other than the new height bearing adapter which replaces the plastic cup #7, this should all be accessible from inside the cabin, and for a slight time underneath the car to detach and reconnect the bottom clip. Much less of an involved install since there is no DSSR in our kit, removing the shifter arm and those blind clips (#3 and #4) are the toughest parts of the install. If I'm right about the above, once the car is cool and driven up on ramps, shouldn't take more than an hour to complete. |
RB, I think you have the job reduced to its essence. If I have it right, the joint [12] can be a wear item, to be replaced; mine was fine at 86k miles.
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Looks like we could have gotten an extra $18 off if we waited till yesterday to buy. UUC is running 15% off.
12,2, ,7 and 5 are all wear items technically as they are elastomersbut according to UUC 12 is definitely the only one that can ever be of concern (7 is in the kit) The geometry definitely agrees with that. I called and verified with them on that. Personally I am just replacing 12 its less than $20 and when your paying $320 to have the best possible shifter feel it seems pretty stupid to say ehh it looks good. Do order another clip #11 if you get #12. RB I agree that this should be pretty simple the only thing i am unclear on is how the shifter separates from the arm 1. I read through the manuals but I kind of wasn't thinking about not having to take arm 1 off since our bushing are fine. If that is the case this should be pretty easy. Still biting my nails for this things to come. . . I'm within 2 day shipping range for them so it should come soon! |
Since I don't plan on doing the install till its a bit warmer in my garage, I'll pick up Gearshift joint #12 and #11 clip for the install as well from the dealer, I need to get a windshield upper gasket anyway.
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Kind of a annoyed with UUC at the moment. For some reason they waited 3 days until the icestorm of the century dropped a mind boggling 2 INCHES of powder, shutting down the entire southern portion of the US and creating a post apocalyptic wasteland out of "hotlanta", to ship this shifter. Hence it is now going to have taken them a week to ship it out. I understand unforeseeable "natural disasters" are not really within any business's control. Of course, this was all over the weather reports and every city up north got twice as much snow and remained fully functional so.
I know I am being impatient but its still annoying I really wanted to get this in this weekend. |
Lol maybe its just bad luck on your end, but I ordered on Monday afternoon and got a confirmation email it was shipped out Tuesday at 11 AM
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Must be some bad luck I ordered it early Friday. Are you sure it actually shipped? or did they just process the number? I bet it never actually went out.
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Says shipping label created on 1/28, but I think it got stuck in Atlanta, bc I don't see any updates on UPS after that.
Also, shipped signature required, wtf? Does Rob @ UUC think I have the time to take a day off of work to sign for my delivery? Leave it at my front door! |
Says shipping label created on 1/28, but I think it got stuck in Atlanta, bc I don't see any updates on UPS after that.
Also, shipped signature required, wtf? Does Rob @ UUC think I have the time to take a day off of work to sign for my delivery? Leave it at my front door! |
So we are pretty much in the same boat but it sounds like you weren't planning on putting yours on for a bit anyways.
Yeah I hope he didn't require signature on mine "aint nobody got time fo dat." |
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CDV = Clutch delay valve. It is essentially an orifice placed inline threaded into the slave cylinder. It allows them to regulate how fast the clutch can go in and out (this is set by the size of the orifice which bmw uses, it can be more or less noticeable depending on how small the orifice is). The effect is a sort of delayed reaction on the clutch that will prevent a noob from dropping it and allows for smoother shifts if you don't know what your doing. If you do know what your doing it just makes it feel like your drunk or something and most people find it to be a hindrance.
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Good thing UPS usually delivers late to my house so most of the time I'm home, will let you know when my ETA is for the package to arrive. |
I just took a closer look and mine has signature required as well which isn't the end of the world cause there is usually someone home. I also just realized that they shipped it next day air!! I guess my call paid off, super happy about that. Label was made at 11:30am so as long as they actually shipped it out today I should have it tomorrow. Here's hoping!
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Solid man! Post up pics and impressions here if you get it installed over the weekend, or a post in the manual trans registry as well!
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E60 clutch delay valve - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
both have them but the e60 is harder to get off. I believe the E39 is just like our e53's all you have to do is get under the car and look at the slave cylinder. If the clutch line threads straight into the slave cylinder - no cdv. If there is about a 3/4 inch long fitting threaded into the slave cylinder that the clutch line is threaded into than there is a cdv. However some people opt to replace their cdv with a special piece that looks just like the cdv but contains no orifice. Far as I am concerned this only made sense if a car is under lease where you wouldn't want removing it to be noticeable. If you have a cdv all you have to do to delete it is remove it and thread the clutch line right into the slave cylinder. Takes like 10 min. |
Above is correct, Zeckhausen and other companies made a "CDV lookalike" without the restrictor inside, so it would look utterly stock but drive perfectly normal, clutch-wise. This was for warrantied vehicles.
Now that the vehicles are well out of warranty and nobody cares anymore, you can unthread the CDV at the slave and rethread the clutch hard line directly into the slave for a free CDV delete. |
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Its prob good practice to bleed the slave when done. I did but I was bleeding brakes at same time
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I def think our shipments got stuck in snowman central in Georgia lol, no updates from ups which makes sense as the snow was Tuesday afternoon.
Btw it's so funny I ordered the short shifter after not really buying mods for months, and of course as soon as I make a fun purchase, my CCV rears its last legs and now I will be dropping 300 in parts to fix that lol! |
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I'm looking forward to RB, mcurcio and Greg in Switzerland's reports on installing the SSK and impressions of the performance ..... I continue to be very pleased and have almost forgotten how it shifted pre-CDV delete/SSK ....... I also recommend the fluid changes [tranny/diffs/transfer case] while you are at it, if not already done, adding the LubroMoly antifriction. It may be placebo effect, but drivetrain seems much smoother with the antifriction.
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I had my tranny drained and filled with MTL, about 1.5 years ago. No anti friction additive but my gearbox shifts smoother than my wife's legs.
Mcurcio did you call UUC about your shipment? It's been 5 days since I got my order shipped email and the UPS status hasn't changed. I'd just email and double check with them, and perhaps ask if they could take off the signature required. |
Yeah I had called about it thursday and that is when they upgraded to overnight but it didn't have a status update on ups until late friday. It is nearby to me now, ready to get dropped off monday. I won't have a problem with the signature.
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She's in!! Like the impatient little prick I am after getting home at midnight from a work event I decided screw it, I'm putting this thing in - so what if I have to get up for work at 6am :)
If your looking at the time you can see it didn't take long - I will write up a full diy tomorrow but I can say that it took me just under 1.5 hours from start to finish and I ran into a stupid problem nobody else will really have to. If you are just doing this kit it should not take any longer than 1 hour. There isn't much to it but it isn't as brainless as changing oil or something. If I were to go back and do it again it would be about a 30-45min job. I think once I get a diy done for this it should be something any of you guys on here can take on. There are two ways that one could do this and I will detail those tomorrow. I saved that front joint for later when I have more time cause that thing will be a huge pita and I can see now why uuc told riggo that his didn't need to be replaced cause it would suck to do. Unfortunately me camera died half through so I couldn't get as many pics as I liked but it won't be a problem for the diy. Didn't have chance to drive it to much so I don't want to review that till later but so far it felt super tight and smooth. |
Good for you! From the instructions, its clearly not a six hour job; just an indication of how 'book' time - what shops charge - bears no relation to reality. Look forward to seeing your DIY and driving impressions.
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Thanks for saving me 20 bucks mcurcio, I'm gonna leave the joint for the future as I have even less miles than Riggo (71k) and didn't order it yet, I'm sure my shifter will be tight after putting the Evo3 in.
Rob returned my email inquiry yesterday since that ups status didn't change since a week ago, he said it never made it to the truck and expediting getting it to me yesterday. I have a new tracking number and signature requirement was waived. Did your stock knob go back on ok and was loose like Riggo's, or did you have to secure with a zip tie to keep in place? |
Working on the DIY now. I'll touch on securing the knob - in short don't worry about it.
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^^^Exciting, thank you :thumbup:
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^^^Thanks, I would (and definitely want to at some point), but I just purchased the OEM Titanium Interior set (after you respectfully bowed out) and will need to recover from that first :).
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I still will probably get a set someday, but for now I figured the wood wasn't bothering me too much, and I got excited for the short shifter lol! I also was thinking of perhaps getting my existing wood trims painted Black Sapphire Metallic or Piano Black by a body shop, I always wanted the black trim look as well, and that way I could reuse what I have already instead of trying to sell an extra set of trims. |
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Just buy some 3m 1080 vinyl and wrap them black. Prly cost less and you can always go back. |
Here is what I have thrown together for installing the UUC shifter in our e53’s. I think this is a relatively easy job and should take about an hour I’m long winded and thorough so do not be intimidated by the length of this- I am writing it so that an idiot can do it. All told UUC’s instructions are very good but some things may not apply and aren’t specific.
Tools – Needle nose plier, flashlight and or wearable light, 13mm socket / socket wrench, flat head screw driver, some soap. kit includes: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...-no/image.jpeg 1. To get started use whatever method you prefer to get access under the car (ramps, jacks, or if you skinnier just slide right under). It should go without saying to be safe anytime you are going underneath a car. 2. Now take a look at the diagram below as well as the picture (for location reference) which shows the shifter lever removed from the selector rod. Note on the diagram the position and rotation of the clip, mk’d 11 (opening facing down). Grab your needle nose pliers and flashlight and go under the car. Rotate the clip so that the opening is down and now, with the pliers vertical, set the points of your pliers on the bottom of the clip (they sit nicely in between the clip and the rod). Give the pliers a forceful bump up and the clip will pop right off. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...419-no/196.png https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5...55B3%255D.jpeg 3. Take the needle nose pliers, flat head screw driver, flashlight, and socket / wrench in the driver seat with you. Remove the shifter handle -grab it with two hand and give it a swift tug upwards and it will pop off, do not twist it! Be careful because it is super easy to smoke yourself in the face (there is a lump above my eye to prove it). 4. Now remove the leather shift boot. See the picture below for the location of the clips. Start by pulling up on the ones by the cigarette lighter and then work your way around. To be honest mine just required a lot of force – maybe there is a trick to it, I dunno. Flat head screw driver may come in handy here but don’t tear or crack anything (the piece itself is plastic and could break if your not careful but it is pretty tough! Now pull the big loose foam piece out to expose the rubber boot and two bolts for the shifting arm bearing, mk’d 5. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o...55B1%255D.jpeg 5. Now lift up the rubber boot, mk’d 8 and pictured, from the perimeter where it is affixed to the transmission tunnel but do not attempt to remove it from the shifter all the way - just enough to get clearance. Then grab your needle nose pliers and insert the tips into whatever two diametric gaps in the white bushing, mk’d 7, that suite your fancy. Rotate the bushing clockwise and you can now pull the shifter lever up and out. UUC’s instructions are good for this. Take the shifter lever inside and load up the rod with soap and then slide the boot off (it may take a little finagling). https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...55B2%255D.jpeg 6. Using your socket wrench, remove the two nuts securing the shifting arm bearing, mk’d 5. 7. The next step is to secure the metal sleeve, supplied by UUC, into the shifting arm, using the 6 supplied screws. Review this narrative and proceed – securing the 6 screws requires getting additional clearance around the arm than the tunnel allows and must either be done inside the car (option 2) or with the shifting arm removed (option 1). On the e53 the bearing pins are actually really easy to release as there is adequate physical and visual access. Go under the car and slide a foot towards the front of the vehicle from where you were looking up to the shifter and you can see them on either side (see pic). All you have to do is slide a flathead under the clip to release it and then push up - should take 30sec. Pull the pins out and the arm comes out. Now you can place the black bushing in (ensure proper orientation) and then set the collar in and secure the allen screws using supplied wrench. Trouble is that my driver side pin was stuck in place and after unclipping it refused to slide out or rotate at all. The passenger side took 30 sec. That being the case there is option 2 which is kind of bulletproof and this is what I did. Go under the car and slide, mk’d 5 shifting arm bearing, off of the shifting arm and set aside. Now go back into the car and you will see that the shifting arm can now be pivoted up just enough to for it to peak above the tunnel so that you can use the wrench to secure the allen screws. This is not going to be as easy as if it were out of the car but it is very doable. (see pic) I would advise to attempt option 1 and if the clips are stuck cut your losses and do option 2 rather than waste the time. As advised by UUC apply locktite to the threads (supplied), and secure the bolts – do not overtighten them. clip / pin is center of the picture right below the big flash spot. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K...55B4%255D.jpeg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...55B5%255D.jpeg 8. Once you have completed step six re install the pins or shifting arm bearing (mk’d 5), also bolting mk’d 5 back in place at this time. Now go back in the driver seat, grease the pivot ball using the supplied grease. Remove the twist tie holding the bushings into the bottom of the shifter and remove the bushings (set aside). Set the shifter in and install the c clip. 9. Ensure the proper orientation of the shifter, it will be obvious. Go beneath the car with the bushings, the washer (supplied), and the new clip mk’d 11. First set the washer on the shift linkage pin and then the one half of the bushing. Slide the shifter onto the pin and bushing (bit of a juggle) . Now slide the other half of the bushing in and then place the clip (very easy). You are now done down below. Go up top and verify that things are moving properly. 10. Then grab the rubber boot mk’d 8. Ensure that it is positioned properly per the real oem diagram then give it a little soap and slide it on. Secure it to the tunnel. Set the big foam piece in. Set the leather boot in place and snap it down. 11. Now it is time to put your shifter knob back in. I believe there is supposed to be a tab on the top to keep is positioned straight but mine is gone (this is why you shouldn’t rotate it). I am not positive what all keeps these tight but someone had wrapped a piece of duct tape around my OEM shifter rod and then pressed the shifter on. This sounds chincy but it honestly works really well. I elected to do the same and I gave it a wrap or two with electric tape and then pressed the knob on. It holds every bit as secure as it would originally and there is no point in wasting money doing anything else. Enjoy the new shifter! |
mcurcio1989, I love that you installed the EVO in the middle of the night! I would have done the same. It's like Christmas morning. Excited for the write up and pics, etc. I'm living vicariously through you guys.
My Schmeidmann SSK project is in progress. Just got the piviot ball polished. It had a coating that was kinda flaking off, so I said the hell with it and had it polished. I may down the road have it coated in Teflon. It's over kill, but I believe in craftsmanship. If any of you manage to pull your selector rod out and can take some rough measurements and pics for me do so. I'm trying to get a jump start on the DSSR Replica project. I'm chin deep in the books with school, but need a break here and there. Excited for you guys. |
mcurcio, you are an inspiration to amateur car geeks everywhere! I particularly like your working duct and electrical tape into the 'loose shifter knob' problem. Certainly cheaper than the fancy $135 engraved aluminum UUC knob I sprang for [though UUC Rob did install it for me ....] Now, if you had just done the install under a streetlight, in 0 degree wind chill, with icy slush clogging the rollers on your creeper, you would have a story to tell the grandkids.
Green Dragon, on the other hand, is trying to make this project as hard as he possibly can ..... :) |
Nice writeup mcurcio!
It looks like Rob gives extra clips for the end of the selector rod, items 3 and 4 in the diagram, were those not used in your install? |
^ I used 1 of them. If you read through step 6 you'll see that I was unable to get one of those off and since it doesn't need to be replaced I said screw it and then pulled of the shift arm bearing so I was able to attach the 6 litte socket head screws from the inside of the vehicle without taking the arm off. You do not need to take the pins 3 and 4 off in which case you don't need them but as long as your pin isn't frozen in place I would recommend it. It is tricky lining the screws up inside the car. As long as they aren't frozen it should be very easy to pull the pins off.
One thing which I would recommend is that Rob supplies the kit with at least one extra of those tiny little socket head screws. I guess you probably don't need all of them anyways but as cheap and easy to loose as they are, it would be nice. I guess that isn't specific to the e53 tho. |
Ahhh i gotcha, I'm sure it will make more sense when I get to work on it. Nice writeup man I'm sure it won't be too bad.
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Hey GD, what measurements do you need? I was planning on taking my shifter arm out of the car to install the height adapter, so no problem I can take some measurements for you. Also, if you really want to play Frankenstein and take some more precise measurements, you can get a new arm from BMW for about $30, might be worth it. Also mcurcio, I think I might pick up a pair of replacement shifter arm bushings (Marked #2 in the parts diagram) as they are $8 for the pair, since I'm taking the arm out I might as well replace the 10 year old bushings while its out. Home Page ES#47268 Oval Shifter Arm Bushing - Priced Each - 25117528407 I assume Rob left them out of the Evo3 kit for us because of the dual mounting points and added cost to the shifter, if he included 2 sets of the delrin bushings it would be $50 added cost to the shifter. But, I believe if you were so inclined, you have the option to use the UUC Delrin oval shift carrier bushings on our E53's arm: Delrin Carrier Bushings - OVAL However at $9 for new OEM as opposed to $50 for 2 sets of Delrin I'm sure new rubber bushings will be nice enough for the next 71k miles, and perhaps when I make it to 140k I'll do the delrin bushings and replace the #12 rod joint at that time. |
I believe (and this is more or less what I was told by UUC over the phone) he left them out because they do not need to be replaced as they won't wear. They plan on you taking the arm out to secure the 6 little socket head screws and that is why the two clip / pins are included. It makes sense that with the old style that just had one attachment point on the trans the bushing is going to wear much much more than when you have two.
It is up to you but it is probably not worth it. |
Makes sense and like I said im sure spending 50 on Delrin bushings isn't worth it. 9 bucks for 2 fresh rubber bushings is ok with me since like my contraceptives, I enjoy new rubber.
Since I'm going to take the arm off and I'm in ecs ordering a cart of CCV and other parts it's no biggie for me to get 2 fresh arm bushings. |
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Also, If you want to loan your OEM shifter, I'll pay shipping. That way I can keep my X on the road. I will buy the selector rod anyways, but I want a head start on plugging info into my design program. Thanks Dude. |
Hey I was pulling part numbers and realized that some of the gear shift parts are not the same between Non-LCI and LCI.
RB, Make sure your using the right diagram for your application. mcurcio1989 actual shift arm is a different design..... and what UUC told him applies to his design. Its a good idea that you are replacing all those bushings. Your shift arm bushings are a higher wear/stress item similar to other BMW's. You may want the Delirin Bushings, etc. For sure now, I will need the selector arm measurements to build you a DSSR. Mine LCI version looks to be different. I may have to buy both versions of the selector rod. I bet you that's why the is no DSSR for the e53. Two versions for a low production product... its gotta make sense for them to make a profit. |
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No sweat on the shift arm measurements and that does make sense if the arm is different between 5 spd and 6 speed versions! Hell you can have my OEM shif lever for free once the Evo3 is in, I don't need it! Here is my 5 speed shifter diagram from realoem for my 9/2003 build 5 speed: http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/l/u/196.png I just bought 2 of the #2 bushings for the shifter arm, as Rob includes #3 and #4 in the Evo3 kit from what mcurcio is showing. Stock rubber for now, but much better than 10 year old bushings! |
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Here's some pics of my original '01 5-speed. "The Green Dragon" You never forget your "first". |
Hey man that is the OG Green Dragon, looking sweet!
Just double checked Realoem, for my 9/2003 build and for the LCI build (I used 9/2005 as build date) all the shifter part numbers are exactly the same. I guess that was the "cutoff month". But you are correct, all early 5 speed models UP TO 9/2003 have this style shifter: http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/v/e/92.png 1 Mounting point on the shifter arm as opposed to 2. My build day is 9/18/2003 so I'm guessing I have the dual mount shifter arm, but if for some reason I don't, and I only have that one bushing on the arm, I would DEFINITELY get a UUC delrin replacement bushing (oval) for that arm to tighten up the feel. Thanks for pointing out GD that for the prior - 9/03 builds (5 speeds) that you may want to invest the 25 bucks in the Delrin bushing for that arm. Will update this thread when I get to work on the install for mine. |
Now that I have had her in for a few days I figured I would give my impressions which are overall good.
It definitely takes some getting used to because, as expected, the shorter throw requires more force. It is very smooth but just takes more force. Additionally the lack of a rubber bushing on the shifter arm makes for a stiffer shift. It changes the feel from having more of a soft luxury feel to a sporty aggressive feel. To be honest when I first put it on I wasn't sure I liked it but after driving it for 6 days the feel has really grown on me. It is a very firm defined shift. You feel exactly where the shifter is going and the throw is very much noticeably shorter. The only complaint I have is that when I pull the shifter towards the rear (for 2, 4, 6) I get a kind of clicking / knock noise. I am not sure what is causing this and I need to look into it cause it sounds cheap and loose. I am in no way trying to say this is because of the shifter - there is probably something a little loose or needing re-positioned somewhere. I am probably going to hang on to my oem shifter because, as easy as this is to put in, I think it would be cool to have the option to switch between the two to shake up the feel from time to time. |
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Are you sure that the clicking when shifting is not due to the harder bushings on the shifter design, eliminating the plastic and rubber? When I had my VW I installed delrin bushings on the shifter linkage, which gave a subtle "click click" when changing gears, a very positive shifting experience which felt very racy and was expected. My guess is if you are not having a sound from underneath the car, that the shifting sound is just the positive engagement of the tighter bushings and shorter throw, it may take some getting used to but if it is how I imagine then it's designed that way. I'd have my shifter in already but I'm waiting on my order from ECS which has my 2 new rubber bushings for the shifter arm. |
The fact that it only does it when pulling back makes me think it shouldn't be like that. Also if I go slower and let it drop into the gear but not hit the stop it won't make the noise.
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Hmmm, are you sure the "bitch clips" are engaged properly? Everything greased up and tightened down as it should be?
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:iagree: check to make make sure everything is tight. Have someone row throw the gears while you are under the car, paying close attention to the specific transitions. Like you said, the shifts to 2-4-6, are a specific motion. The bottom of the shifter is pushing the selector rod forward. High stress on the selector rod and bushings. You may need to add additional bushings/washers to take up some slop.
*Here's why I think that. The e53 varied frequently b/t needing washers and not needing washers on the shift rod/selector rod junction during the production run. UUC's is universal in that respect, and you need to address the fitment on a case to case basis. Post me your actual part number on the shifter...... And I'll post the different variances. |
Different part # for this lever (some are discontinued):
#___________Since___Till 25117540036_2003.09_2005.03_(wide bushing) 25117543190_1999.08_2003.09_(regular bushing) 25117543191_2005.03_2006.09_(wide bushing) 25111434624_1999.08_2003.09_(regular bushing) 25117525645_2003.09_2004.10_(wide bushing) Let me know of this helps brother. |
GD, I see what you're saying, here is the 09/03 build up till end of production diagram:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...419-no/196.png And here again is the UP TO 9/03 diagram I posted above: http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/v/e/92.png The difference is in the rod joint #12 needing washers #10 on the old design, and as you can see on the bottom attachment point of the actual shift lever there are 2 of the #10 washers, one on each side. The 9/03 - onward diagram shows an updated #12 without washers, and no washers on the attachment to the shift lever, only clip #11. Now, mcurcio as well as Riggo both have the same 6-speed production so I assume that their linkage is identical. Which leads me to believe that either mcurcio has something not engaged properly (could be the fact that he has one original "bitch clip" in place and one that is new, perhaps the original is looser), as well I recommend ALL CONNECTIONS OF METAL TO METAL be lubed up good with grease to keep noise minimal and everything moving smoothly. I would agree with your theories about a different part GD, if mcurcio was a pre-9/03 production 5 speed. However, since his is same as Riggo's I think we can agree if the issue is in his linkage, it is not due to differences in parts. |
Yeah I'm so tangled up with part numbers. RB is right. There must be some slop some where. My wife just asked me why I was talking about "shaft slop", what a "loose bitch clip" was.........:rofl::rofl::rofl:.....and why it needed lube?
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Wife and I were watching a Discovery Health "reality show" about these swinger couples and their lives, man let me tell you that was a real eye opener. Made my days surfing the forums, browsing for deals on parts and mods for my X5 seem like I'm a programming nerd working for Dell in the early 80's. |
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Just wanted to add that my weighted version of UUC's DSSR should smooth out the "notchiness" as well. Because you have altered/changed the position of the pivot with a short shift kit, you have also altered the dynamics of the shift. A change in the pivot has a direct proportional relationship to effort and feel. You can add a weighted shift knob to help, but personally I like the factory shift knob feel and in my mind, if I could choose where I wanted to add mass to the equation, it would be on the bottom side of the pivot, but that is a matter of preference and feel. Even though I drive a 4500 lb SUV, not a fan of things feeling "top heavy"(unless you talking about women....;)) My goal with my DSSR design is to feel "Balanced, scaple like percision.....(kinda like the feel of a well oiled bolt action on a rifle.) That smooth "click, click" sound reminds me of my father-in-law oiling up the gun as I was picking his daughter up for a date. :bustingup When I converted my e36 to a manual transmission back in the day, I made a weighted selector rod out of two pieces of steel beefy rectangular key stock, parallel with each other, tied together at both ends and in the middle. It was structurally stronger, heavier, and made the shifting like a "hot knife through butter" feel. My e36 did not have an SSK. I know I'm making a lot of promises for something that is intangible in my mind, but I'm confident that this will help. Adding the EVO SSK alone, however sexy that piece is, doesn't address the whole shifting equation in it's entirety in my mind. Your just moving it to the weakest link. Shifter, links, and bushings/bearings... best to do the whole package. Let us know what you find out with the 2-4-6 shift issue/complaint. We're in this together. |
Green Dragon, you certainly have high standards, and I wish you well. If you are looking for that bolt-action, lock'n'load feel, find and drive a Mercedes SLK, circa 2004-2008, with the six speed tranny. Wonder if its shifter would fit in our trannies and tunnel? Sweetest manual tranny I've ever owned or driven.
The UUC SSK kit, properly installed and lubed, got me to where I needed to be. |
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I hear you GD, good thoughts on the injector tune, now I know I'll be getting one (and an AFE intake) down the line! As far as the SSK goes, and the "click click" action, that is why I am saying that in addition to that being part of the design, perhaps the UUC Delrin bushings on the shifter arm would be a way to obtain 90% of the feel of the DSSR for someone? On the 6-speed models I can see if adding Delrin on both makes it "too tight" because of the 2 bushings on the shifter arm (which is why I bought two spares in a recent ECS order), but for the brethren with a pre-9/03 production, who have the "old style" linkage with 1 bushing on the shifter arm, wouldn't the adage from all older BMW shift kits apply, that the 1 bushing is a wear item and either replaced with new or a Delrin bushing (oval or round depending on application) installed in place to tighten it back up? Again we are all theorizing here but I suspect mcurcio has either some lubing to do or something might be loose in his kit, double check your connections man and double check the grease! Riggo seems to be good to go with no hiccups so I can almost definitely conclude that the UUC design is in fact working as designed and intended for our E53 application. Like he and Rob @ UUC mentioned, on the 6 speeds the only items for wear that remain are the rod joint affixed to the transmission, and the bushings on the shifter arm if the rubber is deteriorated. Rob mentioned to Riggo that using Delrin on both bushings would make perhaps unnecessary vibration, but I actually don't think that it would cause a negative effect, I think it is just financially easier to sell 1 kit which fits both 5 and 6 speeds, instead of sending out 2 sets of Delrin bushings ($50 from UUC) with each Evo3 kit sold, and trying to keep the price point high enough for someone to buy. I have no doubt that if the E53 had the "old linkage" with one shift arm bushing throughout production, that Rob would include the Delrin bushing for the arm with his kit, in order to complete the package. However, he needed to package a kit for both models so those are left out. I don't believe it would cause vibrations in cabin if you used Delrin on the new style, "dual bushing" shifter arm, but I believe it might make cold shifting a bit stiffer until the gearbox is warm, and perhaps isn't as desirable. Again, Rob has such a niche market with us E53 guys as is, it took Greg from Switzerland 2 years to get him to put it back into production. If he retailed the Evo3 (w/out DSSR) including the dual set of Delrin bushings for the shifter arm at $450, I think it would be an even tougher sell. I understand why he stopped at just the Evo3 for our cars. My shift arm bushings should be arrived soon, and when I get under the E53 I'll report back after install. Just cross your fingers my 9/18/03 production has the newer style shift arm, if I for some reason had the "old style" with 1 bushing I'd probably get a Delrin bushing for the arm and definitely update my rod joint as that parts diagram for the older style worries me. |
For what its worth, I emailed Rob today although I know UUC is down with the ice storm, wanted to let him know in case he didn't know already about the difference in linkages between pre- 9/03 and 9/03 onward production.
Also wanted to know his thoughts about adding Delrin in the shift arm bushings, and perhaps a benefit when adding in the earlier style shift arm, as opposed to the negative effects he said in the later style shift arm. Will report back when he emails me. |
OK well I can confirm that I have the earlier linkage as shown above which says up to 9/2003, only one bitch clip in my application, but still 2 bushings on the shifter arm. So it turns out all 5-speed users will have the older linkage as mine is about 2 weeks before end of 5-speed production, for all I know it was one of the last 5 speeds off the line.
Since I have two new oval bushings from BMW for the shifter arm, I will remove the shifter arm from the car, and install 2 fresh bushings, not Delrin since Rob @ UUC apparently does not recommend it, but I would look into replacing with fresh stock bushings at least, when installing the SSK, its only a few extra minutes of work. I think Rob is aware of the differences between 5-speed and 6-speed linkage, bc he includes a washer #10 from this diagram, which is not needed in 6-speed kits, and he includes 2 bitch clips in the kit, when only one is needed for 5 speed. http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/v/e/92.png It's friggin freezing on my floor right now but the bitch clip is easily in sight, however the "rod joint" below the shifter arm is definitely blind to get to. I hope mine isn't worn. It looks like the design of the #12 rod joint is now universally made without washers, as the part # has been updated, so you would just need #12 and #11 if you were to replace it. However, with Riggo having higher miles than me I'm not worrying about it too much. If for some reason I can get it off blindly I might replace it, but otherwise I won't worry about it. NINJA EDIT: There is a definite issue with the way the UUC kit is packaged, depending if you have a 5 speed or 6 speed. You need THIS BITCH CLIP or "Retaining Pin" if you have a 5 speed, 1 of them, you'll see its different. http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/20749_x600.jpg BMW E53 X5 M54 3.0L Search SiteSearch 25111222375 ES#46772 Shifter Carrier Pin - 25111222375 Rob includes 2 of these in the kit, these are from the 6-speed linkage, note there is a different part number as these are a different orientation in left and right sides. http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/217044_x600.jpg Note that the 6-speed pins are much shorter, this makes a huge difference on my 5-speed. I will not be able to install the UUC kit without the proper bitch clip. Will be calling Rob on this and hopefully he will start asking whether you have a 5-speed or 6-speed when ordering, to supply the proper securing clip for the shifter arm. This is why I check, double check, and triple check my install procedure and parts before starting a job! UPDATE (4:39 PM): Just spoke to Rob and told him about the difference in retaining pins/bitch clips from 5 to 6 speed, he thanked me for letting him know and told me that if I was careful I could get mine off without breaking, but I'll just get a fresh one from the dealer as I don't like reusing hardware lol. And YES, he also said "no one believes him" but Delrin bushings is a waste of money on our dual mounted shifter arms. He told me they just simply don't wear like the old style arms from E30, E36 etc, obviously putting fresh stock bushings in for $9 isn't a big deal but he said there is absolutely no reason to spend $60 on 2 sets of his Delrin bushings when you won't see any obvious benefit. There you have it, I'll get a new clip from the dealer and update when it is installed, and GD, my stock shifter is yours as I'm sure I won't be going back to stock lol! |
Well I decided to start the install tonight, just to see if the bitch clip would give me any trouble, and it came disattached from the top of the trans easily enough, however, either I'm doing things in the wrong order, or the retaining pin is seized in the carrier, bc no amount of pulling the retaining pin/clip out has loosened it yet.
The small metal piece attached to the clip that "latches" on the trans is loose on the pin, so it rotates freely, but the pin itself does not rotate. Will have to thank 10 years of salt exposure for the weak pin most likely. I have a small C-clamp so I might try to press the pin out from the other side, I find it hard to believe that just because the linkage is still attached inside the car that it is putting some sort of "pre-load" on the shifter arm and not allowing the pin to be slid out. Must just need some extra persuasion. The rod joint doesnt seem like it would be hard to remove and replace with the shifter arm out of the way, you're just doing it blind is all, I may pick one up (since I need a new clip anyway), if I'm breaking my back to get this stupid friggin retaining pin out and get GD aka Ryan the measurements for a DSSR, then I might as well do the joint too. One things for certain, this isn't a job you want to do multiple times, I have small hands which actually pay for themselves for once, but the space is extremely tight. |
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RB, I'm not gonna say I told you so... ;) Just Kidding buddy.
Good luck with everything. I find that cussing and working on cars go hand and hand, especially on the blind stuff. A small c-clamp or a long slender punch rod if clearance allows, should do the trick on that upper clip. If you haven't installed the UUC shift rod yet, could you compare/measure it to the picture below? I'm curious as to the length of UUC's rod from the bottom of the pivot to the lower bushing and the inverse measurement from the top of the pivot to the top of the shifter rod. Just wanted to see the proportions. Seems like I read somewhere that you get about a 30% percent reduction in throw. I wanted to see if I can get an approximate "sweet spot" with my Schiedmann set-up to start with and go forward from there. I'm about two weeks out on my short shifter. Adding a 2" extension and about an additional 15 degrees of bend on the Schmiedmann shifter to approximate the stock shifter height and position. |
Hey bro, yeah I can take some measurements but don't have a caliper for precise by the mm measurements, might pick one up from harbor freight for that.
Remember my 5-speed linkage is slightly different, including the selector rod, I'm actually theorizing one of the DSSR's he sells might work on my 5-speed, will have to measure the length though, there does not look to be any issues with clearance of a DSSR on the 5-speed, but the shape of the revised shifter arm on the 6-speed might be. I'll get some measurements for you man, and work on that clip later. I tried using an 8 mm allen wrench and pushing with Hulk strength last night, no dice, c-clamp will have to do it, worst comes to worst I'll take to the indy and let him figure it out, but I don't think it will come down to that. One thing is certain there is barely any flex at all in that arm after 10 years and 71k miles so Rob is correct, Delrin in the shifter arm is completely unnecessary! |
I'll have my new clip on Thursday, just called the dealership, wish me luck getting it out tonight, my problem might have been that I was using PB Blaster on it last night and since it makes rubber swell, it might have tightened up the bushings on the retaining clip of the shifter arm, but either way I'm sure its rusted up pretty good.
If you live in a snowy/salty region, anytime you work on your X you should be using this on EVERYTHING, no doubt my new linkage will go together with some of this: http://www.expeditionexchange.com/bl...eize%20006.jpg Oh and since I have the updated "rod joint" which has no washers on it, I'm literally going to just leave it as is. There is no play in the joint as I was wiggling it blind last night, the play comes from the selector rod itself, and honestly with my clip being seized up I'm sure that pin that is in the selector on the trans is probably rusted in there good too, so I'm just going to leave it for another day. |
ok so you definitely need a 2" c-clamp to get that pin loose, my 1" mini clamp isn't enough to get on the other side of the shift arm. just spent an hour prying again tonight on the clip and its not loose yet, but by now I'm going to get that arm out come hell or high water because with all my prying i'm sure I have loosened the bushings somewhat and they definitely could use to be replaced. A 2" clamp from Harbor Freight should do it.
Limited space to pry is the biggest pain by far to get this "bitch clip" to slide out, I also need to pick up some WD-40 as well to lube up that area a bit. probably a stupid question as well, but is it possible I need to place a jack under the transmission to take any pre-load of the shift carrier bushings and subsequently the clip itself? It's literally ridiculously hard to press out or pry out, hasn't moved a mm but yet I can flex the shifter arm slightly, so I don't think its totally stuck. |
Maybe UUC Rob's charging six hours' labor for the install isn't so bad after all ......
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I'm going to call Rob this AM and pick his brain about the DSSR one more time (my 5 speed selector rod is different shaped than yours), and as well ask him if I'm doing something wrong or get some tips, I find it hard to believe I'm the only person on the forums (and I searched google) to have a seized retaining clip on top of the trans that wont simply pull out. I only jacked my car up on one side and put a jackstand under it, so my theory is that somehow the load is shifted and preventing the pin from being pulled out, whereas if both sides are in the air, or up on ramps, perhaps the weight of the trans is evenly distributed? Idk, I've been working on cars for the past 10 years and never had something so stubborn. Its not even like the clip is visually rusted/seized, its still silver on the other side of the trans. In all honesty once that clip is out (and it was easy to pry up by the way), you could have the whole install of the SSK done in 1 hour. There is plenty of room in the tunnel with driveshaft, etc in place. And also, if you have nimble hands, you probably could do the whole install of the SSK in the car, including installing the height adapter on the shift carrier with the 6 small screws. No need to remove shifter arm from the car itself, unless you can't get the tiny screws threaded, or are replacing the bushings in the arm like I am. Rob is right however, the arm is definitely tight, with the two bushings in the arm and dual mounts on top of the trans. Got another surprise for my manual E53 brethren to fully update my X to a true sport model, stay tuned for another thread... |
Unfortunately, no, I was billed time for the other services, too. I could have griped about it, since I know from time in shop that actual work time was less than I was billed for, but I understand service shop economics, and knew them going in. Its why those of who can, when we can, do work ourselves .......
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You have no idea how bad I wish I could fit a mini sledge up there to totally Hammer of Thor that fucker out. Will update after I speak with Rob, hoping he tells me I'm doing something wrong, was thinking about supporting the trans with a jack to maybe take pre-load off the bushings on the shifter arm. |
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will look into the rear bushing mount, good idea! I'll update again tonight, my new clip comes in tomorrow so I'd like to have this ready to go, and my wife needs her car on Friday so I need to drive the X by then, haha! Should be able to loosen the bolts #8 on the mount #4 in the diagram in order to get some play there, I'll let you guys know later on. http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/v/e/92.png |
Welp, I loosened the front shift carrier bolts to give some play, didn't really do much.
Spoke to Rob, he said there should be no pre-load on the bushings, it must just be stuck. I pried some more at the pin per his recommendation, broke the rotating piece off the pin, which I knew was going to happen sooner or later. So now back to my original plan to press out the pin from the other side with a C-clamp which I'll pick up tomorrow with my new clip from the dealer, wish me luck on that one, I'm gonna need it. Effing SSK install is driving me mad. At least the AFE intake install went easy today... |
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Thanks Sam, no worries! I'm sure some brutal force and a C-clamp will press that pin loose, but I'm just documenting my endeavors here for someone who buys the SSK, it's almost more worth it to just try and get the height adapter on the shifter arm from the inside of the car if you have nimble hands. Had I known my shift arm pin would be stuck in there I would have not attempted to take it off. Now I'm definitely putting fresh stock bushings in that shift arm ($8) when I finally get it off!
Like I was telling my wife this morning, can I just proceed with the rest of the SSK install? Sure, but the fact that the pin is stuck in the top of the trans is bothering me, and it would bother me to just button up everything and leave as is. Oh and by the way, to add insult to injury I cracked my shift boot plastic trim ring last night on removal, 10 year old plastic is very brittle! However, some Gorilla glue and after that dries, I will slab some JB weld over the crack, should be good as new. That combo has worked on reinforcing cracked plastic for me many times, highly recommended if you crack something. I can't wait to vaccuum under the shift boot lol! |
Ok so I'm going to say this.
I highly recommend installing the SSK in the car. Even with a c clamp the pin on top of the trans will not slide out. If I want to get it out I believe I'd have to drop the trans, or at least the exhaust, drive shaft, transfer case etc. So the shift carrier is staying in place on the car. When bolted down though there really isn't any play so Rob is right, no worries about worn bushings on it, I just thought it would be nice to do with the install. I'll finish installing the SSK and report back driving impressions tomorrow, 2.5 hours trying to get this stupid friggin clip out this week killed me. And to top it off, I cracked the shift boot trim getting it out of the car and broke 2 clips off, so here goes another 60 bucks at the dealer to order a new one, bc it's not worth my time to try and glue it all and would bother me to know its broken. |
Geez, RB, your experience is making me happier and happier that I paid UUC Rob those Benjamins to do the install ....:) Hear anything from Gregory in Switzerland about his install?
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Either way he said hes about 2 weeks out for install. I guess the benjamins you paid Rob was for him to drop driveshaft, trans, transfer case, exhaust etc and have a completely clear tunnel to do work in, which is obviously advantageous. If my tunnel was clear I'm sure a torch and/or other prying tools could take care of the seized clip. It's also nearly impossible to remove that rod joint blind with all the stuff in place, and I know he inspected yours on install as well which is why I'm sure the time paid was worth it. Let's hope my small hands are worth it tonight to get the pivot height adapter on the shift carrier while still in the car lol! |
It's in!
Happy to report the Evo3 is installed, and quite satisfied so far, although its MUCH different than stock. Very tight and smooth.
As I documented above, I was not able to undo the shift carrier from the car as the pin is seized on top of my trans, so I elected to use Mcurcio's method of unbolting the front carrier support (x2 13mm bolts) and removed it from the carrier temporarily. Once that is out of the way the carrier can swing up and touch the bottom frame from inside the car, allowing you to put the height adapter piece and the 6 blue allen screws to secure it. Here are my tips from install if you elect to do this method of install for the SSK: 1) Put a dab of grease on your allen wrench when installing the tiny screws, it keeps them fixed on the wrench and lessens chance of dropping one. I actually dropped the last screw believe it or not, and by the grace of God and my magnetic pickup I found it. It did NOT drop on the ground as the driveshaft etc is below it. 2) Have a magnetic pickup handy, flexible and thin if possible. It helps to pick up the selector rod which dropped off the shift lever on disassembly, and if you drop the allen wrench, a screw etc. 3) WD-40 is a great lubricant at getting the rubber boot on the shift lever both off on disassembly and back on the new lever on reassembly. 4) Dont forget to vaccuum the inner workings under the shift boot (the foam piece and the area under the foam), and use some 303 Aerospace or similar rubber treatment on your rubber gaiter boot to keep it pliable and working for years to come 5) For 5-speed linkages, there are 2 yellow washers on the selector rod, one on each side. One will stay on the rod on removal of old shifter, keep it there. Then when reinstalling the selector rod to the shift lever, use the other yellow washer that came off with the circlip when you removed it, or put the washer Rob supplied with the kit on there, before putting on the clip. If you only have one washer on the selector rod the clip will be loose, you want it tight! 6-speed guys only have one washer on the selector rod before the clip. 6) Reinstalling the selector rod on the new lever is easiest done under the car, I would put some grease on the selector rod where it goes into the bearings on the bottom of the shift lever just as good practice (I always keep metal to metal connections greased up) And there you have it. I would have loved to take some pics, but my hands were getting greased, dirty and cut up so I kept the iPhone on the shelf. Will post up driving impressions after logging some miles, I ordered a ZHP shift knob yesterday so I'm excited to get that on there, the added weight of the knob should be even more satisfying. And as far as any noises like mcurcio has, I have none, be sure the selector rod is on tight (make sure to use a washer before putting on clip) and be sure circlip is secure in groove on top of shift carrier, and rubber boot is secured properly is about all I can add for troubleshooting. The shifter certainly has that "click click" of a well lubricated PT1911 barrel, thats for sure! Speaking of guns, I need to go clean my two beauties up now, so that's all for today kids! PS: Ryan I got your measurements of the Evo3 shift lever, as best as I could. I'll PM you with them :thumbup::thumbup: |
Here are a couple installed pics with stock shift knob, although I measured the evo3 lever and the stock shift lever, the Evo3 lever is about 1/2" shorter than stock, without the height adjustment touched (as high as it goes), although the pivot adapter brings the height back up slightly, it certainly "feels" shorter in height with the stock knob, and the position in neutral is shifted back towards the rear and drivers side slightly. See a slight difference here? Car is in neutral.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/24/yvu3uru4.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/24/y6e9ymev.jpg I ordered a ZHP knob on Friday but almost question if I should have, since it already feels lower than stock. Although I have short arms anyway it won't make much of a difference, my elbow never stays on the armrest while shifting. |
Jay, very happy for you bud!
The pictures look good (you can definitely see a difference). I think you made the right call on the ZHP knob. Definitely post pics once installed. Thanks :thumbup: |
Looks awesome! I kinda like its new neutral position. The Lemans X5, has a similar rearward bias, but from a recent Youtube vid of it on the track, you can still see quite a lot of throw. Here's the vid.
BMW X5 LeMans at Nurburgring GP circuit - YouTube Ricky, Riggo, and Mcurcio, how does your throw compare with the Lemans X5 now that you have the UUC EVO? I know its not quite the same, as they used the manual transmission from 850 csi, the housing is one-off and it's coupled on very standard NV125 TC. Just curious. Maybe they need to update the Lemans X5 with a UUC EVO! |
I'll see if I can get a good vid of the throw to show you Ry, but just watching the Lemans X5, that basically looks like a stock throw compared to the UUC Evo!
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Taller shifter, longer throw than the UUC SSK. Looks like a mighty fun ride, though. Speaking of the Nurmburgring [sp.], watched Ron Howard's "Rush" Saturday on demand. It would have benefited from more 'racing' shots from a camera mounted behind the driver's head on an F1 racer going around the 'ring [Howard is no John Frankenheimer - compare the chase scenes in Ronin .....] or the Monaco course, but I suppose that would have cut into the 70s' babes' screen time. Sigh .... good times, good times ......
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RB, the shift video is a great idea. I'll see if I can recruit a backseat videographer [Max the Wonderdog isn't so good with a camera] to record while I run it through the gears on an appropriately windey stretch of Georgia asphalt .....
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Does anybody who has upgraded with the UUC equipment have a stock lever they're willing to part with for cheap? PM me.
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Pm sent man it's yours if u want it
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Riggodeaux - do you have any info or thoughts on what exactly UUC may have done to get 'good' access on your install or if they ran into seized pins on the carrier? I also have a 6 speed, have my SSK and was planning to attack it myself but I am wary that both mccurcio and RB ran into issues with being able to get the carrier out as originally planned. If I am understanding correctly, nobody has yet completed a DIY including getting the carrier out?
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I'll let Riggo chime in but he is pretty quick.
Since UUC billed 6 hours just for the SSK install, my humble opinion is that they did the install "by the book", dropped the driveshaft, transfer case, etc, and probably lowered the trans itself, to give a wide open tunnel and view of the linkage. I'm sure if I had wide open access from the side of the pin if everything was dropped I could have gotten it out, but I don't have a lift. It's VERY doable with the carrier in the car, you just have to unbolt the front mount which is secured with 2 bolts directly in front of the shift knob. Point is, I would try to remove the carrier by letting the pins loose on top of the trans, if they are stuck, then go to Plan B which is take off front mount and secure height adapter from inside the car. |
I can't say, and don't know if the tech at UUC dropped the shaft. Suggest you call UUC Rob and ask for tips, and speak to the tech who did it, since he did my six speed X5 only 3 months ago ... I'm never happy paying the bill on something I think I could do myself, but I'm certainly happy with the work done. The shift is sweet, sweet, sweet, even has me thinking about running Road Atlanta at the BMWCCA 'high performance driving' course!
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Thanks RB and Riggo for the input. I had e-mailed Rob prior to getting the kit and he had advised it is "not really difficult but awkward" due to the interference of the transfer case. Calling for more detail is probably a plan - it will be interesting to see how much detail they will share. I am still considering deferring install until I have an opportunity to get to UUC. It's a 2000 mile round trip for me but I can work along the way and it's also an opportunity for a good long road trip to uncover any other issues I may have as I just got this in December and haven't been able to get a lot of miles on it.
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Its one heckuva road trip, and I'm sure there are local, Milwaukee, or Chicagoland indy shops that can do the work well. I made practically that trip [one way] when I bought at a F350 7.3L 4x4 truck w/ZF six speed tranny at the big truck dealer in Fond du Lac. UUC Rob can be a little superficial - see if you can talk to the tech who actually did my install. Our vehicles are rare enough I'm sure he'll remember mine from November .....
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As well, you'll notice the rear of the carrier is held in by a bushing/bracket (one piece, I don't think the bushing is available separate), which allows some movement of the carrier. It's marked #4 in the below diagram (my 5 speed linkage). Older BMW's had a separate bushing part which is a popular replacement when aged, I did notice that the rubber bushing on mine had some flex in it, but other than buying a new one, and/or filling the voids in the bushing with urethane as well, it will still allow some flex in the rubber. http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/v/e/92.png I think to truly eliminate all play in the carrier, you would have to get a new rear mount for the carrier, fill the bushing with urethane on both sides of it so its solid, and also make the bushings at the front solid with Delrin or similar. But in my opinion the carrier does need some play when driving, due to shifts in the motor under load, etc. The trans is bolted down with mounts using rubber which allow for flex, etc and is not bolted down with solid mounts, if you make the shift carrier mounting solid like a rock with ZERO play whatsoever, but the stock motor and trans mountings are left as is, you'll have a carrier which doesnt move a mm, but a trans which flexes left/right and back/forth somewhat, and I don't think thats a good thing. It's like the old adage on VW's, if you're doing the bottom motor mount (torque mount from engine to trans) alone and leaving the top 2 mounts stock, thats fine, as the bottom will be solidly secured. But if you do one side of the top motor mount with a solid mounting solution, and leave the other side stock, you will not only get a motor which flexes extremely to one side, but you'll wear out that last stock mount so quick. I think the same goes for here, not sure what your mileage is, but the rear mount on my carrier looked fine, like I said perhaps it could be filled with some urethane to make it more solid. And the front bushings stayed as is. You also have to remember that there is a large chance if you were to make both mountings of the carrier solid, that you could definitely transmit some NVH from the trans up to the cabin through the shift lever. EDIT: If you wanted it to be "factory fresh", I'd recommend replacing #4 at time of SSK install. It is similar to an exhaust hanger, and after time I'm sure the rubber gets loose. The rear portion of the carrier just sits in it, and that bushing supports the entire rear linkage. I'm actually thinking of replacing mine as it looks to be $18 from the dealer and would be about 2 minutes of my time to pull up the shift boot, loosen the 2 - 13mm bolts, lower the carrier, slip the old bushing off, and slip the new one on and tighten up. The rear mount for the shift carrier is same part # for both the 5-speed and 6-speed linkages I just checked. Search SiteSearch 25111434625 - 25111434625 - SHIFT ARM - ES#46872 |
Thanks RB - lots to consider there. I am not really looking to make everything rock solid. Anecdotally, from an E34 I had years ago, an E60 and another manual E53 with lower mileage I drove when looking, mine just feels looser and less precise than it should in addition to the long throw. I don't think I would be interested in using Delrin or Eurothane - just refreshing with factory bushings. I have 119k. When I had the E34, I had an SSK(I don't remember which one) and either Delrin or UHMW bushings put in and I somewhat regretted the bushings - it did transmit more vibration.
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I would honestly say then just get a rear mount. Like I said its more of a hanger and at 20 bucks you can replace it whether or not you can get the front of the carrier off the trans or not.
If you do get the whole assembly off I have 2 brand new stock oval bushings you can have if you'd like to replace them. Since I couldn't get mine off they won't be used. I have to take my console out to switch trims soon, so when I do I will replace the rear mount. I found a post today saying that the rear mount can't be solid, especially if the bushings up front are Delrin bc of the stress on the carrier, it has to be able to flex somewhat! |
Schmiedmann Update
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Just wanted to send a teaser photo of my short shift project. I still need to bend an additional 15 sweep of the shifter and machine down my 3" extension about an inch to allow the knob adapter to drop an additional inch. My goal is to keep the shift height stock, and I think I've got a range adjustment of anywhere between 40% shorter throw and 20% increased throw beyond stock, all the while retaining stock height. I thought that would be a good starting point. I also added a steel coupler at the bottom above the pivot to strengthen the junction of the original steel shaft and the billet aluminum extension. It's a bit unnecessary, but this also allows me to shift some mass upward for feel and insure complete strength and integrity due to a steel aluminum connection.
Basically, pre-fitment into the X, all that was needed to make the Schiedmann to work was a 2" extension and an additional 15 degrees to the bend. Will know more later. Stay tuned........ |
Looking forward to updates Ryan, sweet looking work you've done there!
I have ordered a new rear carrier mount (marked #4 on our shift diagram) as I feel the rubber bushing supporting the weight of the carrier definitely sags some over time, similar to an exhaust hanger. It's only 19 bucks so if it doesn't do anything positive for my newly installed UUC Evo3 at least I know its fresh. I have a feeling it will help with shift carrier movement however, and especially with the 1-2 and 3-4 shift action, as when you row in that action you are putting downward force on the carrier, if the bushing has sagged some over time due to age or mileage, the shift of the carrier could in fact make for a notchier shift. Will update with my impressions, don't get me wrong I wouldn't get rid of this short shifter ever as its so smooth, but on spirited shifts I do notice some can be a bit notchier than others and I think its the rear mount allowing too much movement to the carrier and not making the shift as accurate as it should be. Everything is greased, lubed and adjusted perfect so its definitely not that, and as we know the dual bushings mounting the carrier to the top of the trans do not deteriorate as much to allow play up there. |
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UUC kit waiting for a warm (weather day), this Sunday was perfect. UUC short shifter installed. A few notes for those who have and will do this:
1) VERY easy to do, access is not an issue on an X5. Jack stands at the front and rear wheel chocks are fine. 2) Firm pulling will remove the shifter knob, it will surprise you when it comes off. 3) Removing the leather shifter boot is easy - careful removing it to avoid damaging the plastic clips (be gentle) on the frame underneath. 4) Removing the rubber boot from the old shifter boot is easy - don't use WD40. Use warm water and some dishwashing liquid. Same to add this (at the end) to the new UUC shifter. It's an old motorcycle grip trick. 5) Vaccuming all around is indeed a good idea. 6) Removing the aluminum shifter carrier was easy (in my case) and makes it easier to install the EVO3 collar than to try to do it "in situ". 7) It is (I can't recall which person suggested it) MUCH easier if you remove the rear shifter carrier holder. Two 13 or 14 mm nuts from the inside of the car - just in front of the shifter. 8) For ALL of the correspondence about the front carrier bushings (oval shape), please note that this part (bushing) is BMW 25 11 7 528 407. BMW calls it ultra-oval. The ultra-oval bushing is used on a number of BMW platforms. It is NOT the same as the traditional UUC Delrin oval bushing. I have written Rob about this - to see if he does make this part. 8) Depending on your car, the front carrier is attached with a dual oval (super oval) bushing BUT with either one BIG clip or two small clips. Always two ultra-oval bushings. Overall feel is definitely shorter, tighter and more pleasant. I also (like others) notice that the shifter points a bit further back. I have not yet adjusted the shifter height, and since it is supplied at the tallest, it is normal that it's further back. I have another idea on this. I'll check with Rob, more to come. Bottom line: Just do it ! |
Awesome to hear Greg I'm glad you got it installed and were able to get the carrier removed fully.
I just got my ZHP shift knob in the mail and already swapped the insert for a plain 5 speed one, and I also ordered a new rear carrier mount as I do believe the rubber does degrade over time much like an exhaust hanger as it supports the weight of the carrier. I will post pics and updates once I replace the shift knob with ZHP and do a side by side of the original rear carrier mount vs the new pne |
Thanks, Gregory891, good to know yours' went in relatively easy. The word from UUC Rob when I spoke to him about the two front carrier bushings was that delrin in that application resulted in unwanted vibration and, unlike the older, single bushing BMW set-ups, is not needed; stick with the OEM bushings, if needed at all. Mine were fine, and I continue being very pleased with the UUC SSK shift performance in my six speed version.
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:D -Carter |
Regarding the short shift, is it possible to weld in an extension between the ball and the lower joint? On any other BMW I have worked on it is the leingth between the ball and the bottom of the shift lever that determines the throw. Anyone tried extending?
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I started my schmiedmann SSK project before the release of the UUC. I also wanted to get rid of the plastic pivot ball and control/adjust the different variables. I'm in the final stages of mine with the first fitment this weekend. Keep us posted on the route you choose. |
Interesting, do you have the link to the ebay part? If you have not installed your kit yet would you mind giving me a measurement from the bottom of the ball to the bottom of the busing at whatever hight you are planning to try?
The ssk kit looks pretty nice. Lots of adjustment and reasonably priced. I wasn't crazy about the last UUC I had on my e30m. I ended up pulling and selling it. It might have been me though since everyone else seems to think they are great. Curious to see how it all turns out. |
Mission accomplished with new rear carrier mount and ZHP shift knob installed with my completed Titan Silver interior trim swap. The ZHP shift knob is NICE for 63 bucks and if you spring for the 8 dollar non M insert like I did, it's stealthy and belongs in our vehicles.
At 72k miles the rear carrier mount "shift bearing" swap for 20 bucks was worth it, the rubber on the mount was extremely pliable and moveable compared to a new mount, highly recommended to replace yours when doing the SSK http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/31/uzyvesa2.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/31/aqa8a8uj.jpg |
Looks sharp!
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Jay, looks awesome bud! You'll have to e-mail some tips on the center console install. Nice job :thumbup:
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I will say Sammy that the console is not as hard as everyone says, literally all you need to do is follow the directions on the How To's.
The hardest part of the console is making sure you don't break any clips and that you take your time when reinstalling to make sure everything is reseated correctly. Probably an hour on the removal and half hour to reinstall. It's really only 13 screws and 7 plugs to remove |
Thanks Jay, that's great to hear! Now I'm motivated :D
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Handsone interior rework, RB . . .
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CDV Delete - no improvement!
Hi Guys,
So - I picked up my '05 6 speed back in December but really have not had much opportunity to drive it consistently until recently. The first hing I noticed about it was the funky clutch engagement so I did the UUC CDV delete and a fluid flush including manual cycle/reverse bleed on Slave Cylinder. Having had an opportunity to drive it quite a lot this week - I can honestly say it doesnt seem to have made much of a difference - I still have a tough time getting consistently smooth clutch engagement. I notice a sporadic squeek/groan in the area of the clutch pedal(only on clutch engagement - towards end of pedal travel on the way up) and am starting to wonder if I might have a failing master cylinder. Any thoughts? 120k miles - no detailed history available. |
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I may not be much help on this, and others can pitch in, but a CDV delete helps quite a bit, but may not be a solve all. If this was on my e36 with no self adjusting clutch, mechanical throttle cable and "normal gear ratios" I might have a better shot at diagnosing the issue when it comes to awkward/funky engagement and disengagement problems. Once you throw in a self adjusting clutch (which adds an unnecessary layer of complexity) cdv's, and lagging, sporadic drive-by-wire throttle control that has a mind of its own, and it gets kinda messy for me. Sounds like your right on track for eliminating the variables. keep us posted and if you can describe the engagement issue with more clarity, I'm willing to bet your not alone. |
Thanks Green Dragon.
Sorry for being ambiguous in my original post - I should have stated the squeak/groan from the pedal area is only on Clutch Engagement(pedal dis-engagement) towards the upper end of pedal travel. The more I think about it, the more I am inclined to dig into the master cylinder. |
Notch another win up to the carrier pins
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I got my SSK in but there was no way the carrier pins were coming out. After several hours of massaging them back and forth about 30 degrees, I decided to give up before I broke the retaining clips off. Not sure who had mentioned it first, but removing the rear carrier mount completely(2 M10 nuts) makes it a piece of cake to raise the carrier enough to get the job done from inside the car.
I pretty much figured out I was in for a tough time when I could see the corrosion on the visible part of the pins - They are so swollen with corrosion, there is no way they are coming out of there unless the transfer case is dropped to be able to press them out from the inside. I am convinced I need to replace all the bushings in the assembly as there is stll a lot of play in the carrier itself so I will need to try again at some point. Only advice I can add is to use a rag under the entire work area per below to catch the inevitable dropped M3 screw. Of course, I fugured this out after I dropped/lost one of the screws. I need to go back in there to replace the original inner boot anyway so I will put the 6th screw in then. |
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Nice to see another SSK kit going in! Mine is almost done, just no time at the momentDid you ever get to the bottom of your clutch engagement issues? Yeah, there is some stuff called "Kroil" that I use on corroded, rusted impellers at work that is some good ole nasty stuff, but works very well. It puts PB Blaster to shame. It might be just the ticket for corroded bushings. I've used it on exhaust work that I thought for sure I'd break the stud before the nut broke loose. Nut sure if it would make the bushing swell, but thought I'd put it out there. |
Thanks for the tip on the Kroil - I will check that out.
Didn't make any progress on the clutch. I am trying to isolate the circumstances where it gets worse. |
I decided I don't really like the sporty feel of a short shifter on my X so I took it off. Plus I bought a sea plane so I'm what you might call "poor" at the moment and I'd rather have the money for this thing. I'm going to put a classified ad on this site.
I'll do $250 shipped for the kit. Thats $100 less than UUC's list price but they always seem to run a deal that puts it closer to 300+shipping. It was used for about 3 months and is good as new. The only thing it won't have is the two bearing pins (I may have one of them though). I really think those things add absolutely no value to the kit anyways because ours don't come with bearing sleeves since they don't wear, in this arrangement. So if your bearing pin comes out easy than you can put it back in no problem and if it comes out hard (I think more often than not that may be the case) than your wasting your time and you should just leave it in and fasten the screws by pulling the shift arm up through the trans tunnel. Anyways shoot me a pm if your interested. |
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As for the squeak, I remember that being a common issue with E36 and maybe E46 cars as well. Just spray some lubricant down in there somewhere where the pedal pivots and see if that helps at all. FWIW, I'd like to thank the OP for the thread. I actually, embarrassingly did not realize that the E53 was ever available with a manual transmission! :dunno: |
Some of you guys will laugh but I have seen somewhere that people do this:
- Leave the stock shifter alone. - Remove the factory knob, and Cut the shifter down 1" or so. - Then cut a new slot on the shifter. - Then use a shorter knob. Anyone did this? |
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Any updates? I'm hoping to pickup a 6 speed X5 this weekend and a short shifter looks like an excellent winter time machine shop project. I'd love to see some drawings or some photos with the critical dimensions penciled in. |
So does everyone that did this kit still like it?
I know I am bumping a somewhat older thread, but it makes sense to keep it all on this one to me. |
I wouldn't have it any other way. Actually that isn't true, I would much prefer a body mounted shifter assembly than this carrier crap that BMW is into. But the UUC makes the best of a slop-riddled design. I highly recommend it.
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YES
I love it! Totally was worth the cost. Also, do yourself a favor and get the ZHP shift knob, makes it such a pleasurable experience. I left my UUC at stock height and the ZHP is slightly lower so it actually sits a touch shorter than stock. |
UUC installed mine 25k miles ago, one of first done on E53s. With the CDV delete, a great improvement. You don't 'need' a fancy knob, but UUC talked me into their fancy aluminum version. Sweet ......
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The list of mods just keep on growing. It is a good thing I got a good deal on this.
It seems that if I wait it will go on sale.. I was thinking of getting an e36 m3 knob. That way it only shows the 5 instead of the 6. |
I got the ZHP knob and a spare 5-speed insert (non M)
The inserts are $8 and take 2 seconds to swap on the knob. There is a ZHP 5-Speed knob part # though - it comes with M emblem |
Hey fellow manual owners!
I just completed the UUC short shifter and CDV. My x5 is a 2003 3.0 with 90,000 miles and the the shifting was vague at best. I never knew really if I was going into 1st 3rd or 5th, it was a crapshoot. The new shifter is crisp, accurate and feels great. Very nice quality. The only issue I had was TWICE the UUC instructions told me to remove the transfer case and ancillary parts! I was freaking out about this and finally found mcurcio1989 page 8 post that saved me. http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...lve-fix-8.html Thanks mcurcio! unlike some if the carriers mine only had one long front pin. Made it very easy to remove. Now the CDV Very simple and easy to get to. Just crawled under the car and removed it. I bought a power bleeder that worked great. Like the shifting the clutch engagement left me feeling like a 14 year old trying to learn stick. It was jerky and ridiculous. This also feels much better. I will drive it for a week and leave some more feedback. I will probably add a ZHP knob just because it is cool. I feel the shifter and the CDV is a must on a manual X5. |
Nice! Get the ZHP knob. It's so much better than stock in mutple ways. Feels nice, looks nice, and is weighted.
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Oh that ZHP knob. So nice. I want on on my 330i now. I enjoy every shift with the new set-up. Best $70 spent.
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