Gonna be doing valve covers soon. Vanos advice?
 

So my wife is getting sick of the burnt oil smell, so I need to do the valve cover gaskets.
The X currently has 155k miles. It's a 3.0. I've never really had to do anything to it. I put a disa valve in at 65k, replaced the ccv at 140k (cold weather vs.).
Should I mess with the vanos?
I don't really see any of the symptoms that I've read about. Only issue I have now is a hard start issue. If the motor is cold, or off for a couple hrs, it takes forever to start. Just sits and cranks. If I try starting it, then stop, and try again, it will fire right up. But if I just hit the key and hold it, it will turn over for a good 15 sec or more.
Could that be a vanos issue? Seems more like a intake cam sensor issue, but there is no cel?

Also, should I bother with the intake manifold gaskets? Never been touched. I know on the m62 the intake rarely lasts longer than 130-150 before you start getting leaks. Is the 3.0 the same?

Thanks in advance for the tips. :thumbup:

The intake manifold is a bear to remove. If its not leaking I wouldn't replace it unless you took it off for something.

If you're doing valve cover gaskets new plugs are a good idea, and Vanos seals will only take another hour or two since the cover is off anyway.


Vanos wouldn't be related to your starting problems, it could be fuel related, it could be the starter.

Vanos rebuild is extremely easy to do, especially when you're already in there with the valve cover off. get the vanos kit from Beisen Systems as well as a vanos to head gasket. Beisen has directions on their website and it's extremely simple.

Kool. I already looked over the job. Does look easy compared to the chain guides on the v8. I've done a dozen or so of those, so the 6 looks really straight forward comparatively.

Looks like I'll be leaving the intake alone then. I plan on trying out the disa valve rebuild kit though. The one on it currently has close to 100k on it.

Guess I'll keep looking into the start issue. Starter works fine, although since it's working a lot longer than it should, I'd like to get this figured out sooner rather than later. I've been procrastinating, hoping that I'd get some sort of cel related to it.

I just did the VCG and vanos seals on my 3.0. They're both quite easy but were fairly time consuming for me. I don't have the best working area though. The hardest part was getting the stupid cooling fan back on. Actually, that's not true. The hardest part was finding the bolt I dropped below the engine. Just be careful not to drop anything haha. The Besian Systems tutorial is both comprehensive and easy to follow. It tells you just about everything you need to know.

sorry to be coming in late to the party here!
but, any one ever have a "vanos rattle" as described by beisan systems where the axial load of the bearing in the Vanos piston causes a rattle at resonant frequency?? just wondering if this is a problem in our X5 3.0l engines, I started looking at doing the valve cover gaskets on mine, and thought, hmm while I'm in there may as well do the vanos seals, then got reading, and the vanos rattle kits too, and ... pretty soon its gonna be , while I am in there may as well pull the head and then rebore the block and since I am in this far, rebuild the tranny, and and and ! !!
any help as to where to stop???!!! :dunno:
My 3.0 performs flawlessly, aside from an occasional oil leak from the rear of the valve cover gasket.
i heard that the new gaskets are now made from vitron? (spelling??)
so they should be much better!
I will be doing the valve cover gaskets, and the vanos seals, but should i stop here or continue on with the rattle repair as well, especially since i dont have any noticeable rattle at this time!
Thanx, my name is Riemer, and i drive a BMW!!! *sounds like the start to a 12 step group meeting!!!!!

I've read that if you have the rattle you would know it. The rattle repair isn't necessary unless you have it, someone correct me if I'm wrong but it's more popular on ZHP E46's

The seals and valve cover gasket should be good enough, don't forget the 15 grommet seals for the VC bolts as well and a new vanos crush gasket.

You could also send out your vanos or buy a rebuilt vanos from drvanos.com, they sell them for 250 after core charge, same if you rebuild just no core. Core is 150 so buying one is 400 up front. They do the seals and the rattle repair on the rebuilt units, using Besian products

I think I would like to give the vanos rebuild a go, no rattle at all and I will be sure to get all 15 grommets too! And any gaskets I need! I might do the oil filter housing gasket too and clean out my 'mayo machine' aka crank case ventilation!
Thanx , parts order goin in tonight!!! :)

If you do the CCV don't forget if you're ordering the cold climate parts to also order the updated cold climate dipstick tube. Part number is on BMW SIB 08 03 I believe, you can find a PDF on a google search. Apparently if you do the OFHG at the same time of the CCV it gives you extra room to work.

Thanx, living in Canada, i dont think the "non cold weather" CCV is availible lol!!! i will get the cold weather pipes too :) might even put more insulation (plumbing pipe wrap) on them !!! if there is room!!

Looks like in my future, there is an order from Beisan systems for my double vanos washers. and a new OEM valve cover gasket set (and 15 grommets as well as any other gaskety bits i might need! and the Oil filter housing gasket. and a cold weather CCV kit!
pipes and all!
(and maybe a nice case of cold beer too! )
:cool:

If you change the VCG, thoroughly clean the inside valve cover and make sure you clean the outlet on it that connects to the CCV hose. Should be very dirty if it has never been cleaned. Make sure you use sealant on the half round cut outs.

So I finally got around to doing this. Took all of 10 min to get the cover off.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps737e8d5c.jpg

She's got 160k now. A lot cleaner than I expected. I fight with moisture in the oil in winter. Even with the cold ccv. But I guess the 2-3k mile oil changes are paying off.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps9ef31ff6.jpg

Vanos removed

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps726935b9.jpg

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6c7bd108.jpg

Resizing the seals after stretching them on.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse5888c40.jpg

Had the besian guide handy. I wound up buying the kit from Bavauto though. They are local to me so it easy easier.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8966beee.jpg

All finished up and waiting for a new water pump pulley from the dealer. Thing shattered when I tried to remove the fan.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...psf84bf6fa.jpg

I didn't take anymore pics, but it's all done now. Runs a ton better. Nice even power delivery. Seems to even have more low end tq. It def. needed this. Now hopefully the p174 code goes away.

Did you end up doing the rattle kit as well? The rattle kit ended up being the most time consuming part of the rebuilt when we did mine. The exhaust side went rather uneventful, but the intake side took a lot of "shaving" to get piston turning properly. The Beisan rings were a bit too over-sized, which was causing the piston to seized. So, the rattle kit wasn't a simple drop-in swap. Luckily, a friend who was helping me do the work is experienced in the rebuilt process...so he knew exactly what to do to correct the problem.

Nope. Not even sure what that would entail. Replacing the o rings required disassembly of the entire unit. There was nothing left to replace.
What is involved in the rattle kit?

Never mind. Just looked at the besian site. So it requires rebuilding the pistons. I didn't do that. My car didn't have any rattle though, so I'm not sure it was nessasary.

I wouldn't own an I6 and have the original Vanos seals. Both of my old I6 had them replaced before I sold them, including the G.A.S Disa kit.
FYI: the new seals need to be break-in for about 200 miles.

Tam did you do the rattle repair or just the seals on your M54? I was going to do my VCG and vanos seals preventatively later this year, even though my miles are low at 72k currently I think the age of the nitrile on the seals still could have them brittle.

Just wondering if I should also do this "rattle repair" while its open.

What do you mean it takes about 200 miles to break-in? What's the "break-in" process?