N62 4.4L rough idle
 

I have a 2004 X5 N62 4.4L with 135K miles on it. It always start nicely. The problem is when outside temperature is below freezing and as soon as I shift the transmission, 7 times out of ten the engine is running rough and if the outside temp is lower, it's getting worse. The idle is so rough, it's hard for me to get out the garage. At minus 30F, the engine went in the Engine fail safe mode when driving. I had very often the P0300 code and a few P0444. I did change my spark plugs and my fuel filter without any improvement.

Here's my observations:
1- the rough running last for about 2 to 3 minutes and disappears by itself. Sometimes (very few), it doesn't disappears, I shut off the engine, wait about 1 minute crank again and the engine runs smoothly like new. I did that also for the fail safe mode and it worked.
2- less problem when the fuel tank is full
3- no problem when the engine is warm

If you have any suggestion, please let me know, Thanks

This topic has been discussed numerous times with different solutions. Do a search on the rough idle issue.

One thing that comes to mind is when was the last time you services the CCV's? If you do short drives, there may be cheese under those diaphragms.

You can start here:
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...d-weather.html

And welcome to the forum fellow Montrealer....

I like to call it mayo instead since I dont like it and neither does a bimmer hahaha

Thanks all for your lightning replies... Sorry to started a new thread on a old problem:sorry: I already ordered this morning the 2 PCV valves and I'll be back with the update on the fix... Thanks again:thumbup:

I've also been told two bottles of ISO HEET in the gas tank can help. I'm having the same problem, replaced both CCV's and it's still there. I've searched every store in a 20 mile radius and all the ISO HEET is sold out at every single one.

Brandon , I thought your problem was solved? Mine is still holding up but this morning I felt a very small vibration ( 2 secs maybe) .

Mine got better, but not solved on cold morning starts.

Sounds like you might have valvetronic intermediate levers and shafts issues. You can test or have this tested by running the engine with the valvetronic in failsafe and then cold start

Did my PCV change last weekend, lot of mayonnaise in the valve and in the piping. Clean everything and the engine runs smoother but again in cold this morning , as soon as I engaged in reverse, the engine bucked and the engine light in the dash flashed. I have to look again somewhere else...


Sarek: Thanks for your reply but how can I do this test by myself?

I agree on the valvetronic issue. I just figured I'd try every other possible fix before even thinking about that.

Good thing is the valvetronic problems can be lived with. My car only has the valvetronic/rough idle on very cold mornings. The rest of the time it's perfectly fine. When I start it on cold mornings I just hold my foot on the pedal to keep the RPM's around 1500 until the temp needle starts to move, once it starts to move even the slightest the car idles as it should with no SES light.

you probably still have a lot of mayo in the engine... you need to do several hot oil changes, back to back with some engine flush ( i prefer Liqu-Moly engine flush, it is gentler but your case may warrant SeaFoam) to get the mayo out of the engine... do search and read about this...

Pm me and I can explain. Its really easy

What does it meen when idle is intermitedly surging 10-20rpm slightly probly half the time once warm

and when u pull dipstick at idle the engine starts to run rough?

On a n62

I will pull my ccv diaphrams this weekend, it has been -5'C the last 2 weeks

hi guys. ive replaced my ccv rubber diaphragms tonight and removed/cleaned out the 2 ccv hoses too from the dreaded oil emulsion/mayo but as I was putting the hose back on cylinder 1-4 side, I broke the attachment clip. SO I jumped on ECS Tunings site to see how much that hose was, but they show a newer/upgraded hose for this cylinder 1-4 side of the engine. Has anyone used it and whats the purpose of adding the 3rd ccv in-line just before the engine's ccv??

I believe pulling the dip stick can cause a vacuum leak. you shouldn't pull the dipstick with the engine running anyway.

N62 will almost never have a butter smooth idle. Call BMW and they will tell you the same. A 10-20 RPM fluctuation is not that bad.

You have an 05 4.4I? The CCV's are on top of each valve cover, that's it. I think the pictures you posted are for the M62 engine, not the N62 that you have.

thank you :)

Those are the upgraded hoses to separate the banks. So one bank doesnt affect the other anymore on the vacuum side. Very high crankcase vacuum in the N engines. Almost double the M engines. The valvetronic causes that engine to have barely any intake vacuum (since the valves barely open when idling). Hence the need for the vacuum pump for thre brake booster. Strange that there is so much crancase vacuum and barely any intake vacuum. Who knows...The typical upgraded hoses do not have that one ccv on them. I believe that is for an n62b48 but only on a very specific application. I cant think of it right off hand but have seen it before. Those replacement pipes are pretty expensive. I am always so careful when removing the old one.

I have an 04 4.4L. When I go to realoem.com to look at my X5 with the VIN#, it tells me I have a N62 and when I changed my PCV's, one of those was on this housing on the vacuum line.

That's really odd as I have an 04, 4.4 as well. I changed both CCV's and they were both located on the valve covers only.

This is the cylinder head blowup from my 04 4.4

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/e/218.png


Notice the CCV's on each valve cover?

I know. When I took off the engine plastic covers, I was expecting to see one on each head cover. It took me a few seconds to finally find the one in-line. The schematic is not the real thing I have in my 04 4.4L but the part# is right.

what was the production date of your car? I know they made some changes halfway through the 2004 model year. They went from a water cooled alternator to air cooled among a few other changes.

June 04

so you DO have three CCV valves? one on each cylinder head and then this third one in the hose?

Hmmmm I wonder if it will fit all N62 engines?
I've got an production date of April 2005 and when I look up my VIN there shows no alternate part for the cyl 1-4 hose, just what I have currently installed.

The part # I have (11617547185) is available from Oct 2004 - Nov 2006 for the N62 FB53, but from Nov 2006 to present I assume, this looks to be the new part 11617563476 (with an ccv valve built in-line, therefore adding a 3rd ccv valve to the mix).
Funny, when I do a VIN search, this PN 11617563476 does not show up as an option for me but if I search that part #, it shows that its an option for my N62 engine.

I'm just surprised there is room for that CCV valve and that this method could help reduce issues.

I DON'T have 3 valves, only 2. The passenger's side valve cover do not have a valve on it. Instead the valve is located remotely in a casing like the picture sent by clockwork. The driver's side one is on the valve cover. The part# for both is 11127547058.

then why does the updated hose have a 3rd ccv valve in it IF the current N62's already have two ccv valves built onto the valve covers?
I'm assuming the necessary hose for the current N62 engine, cylinders 1-4 would be the hse that does NOT have a ccv valve built in.
odd that ETK/Realoem does not mention this.

I thought I heard something about an updated valve cover a while back? Maybe this has something to do with it?

My N62, May 2004 build date has a CCV in each valve cover.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ictures-3.html

Post #27 shows the update.

http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...b-11-01-07.pdf also pdf added which also follows the thread above.

There is an update from BMW for the heads that changes the CCV from internal to external addition within the hose.

Maybe you already had the update completed on the one side?
Any records from the PO?

I finally solved my problem. :thumbup: I just want to post to help somebody else.

I bought a more complete diagnostic service tool. I got some random misfires and evap codes. Those are always coming back very fast after erasing the faults. I start thinking what it could be. I suspected some vacuum leaks. I finally found a damaged evap system vacuum hose connected on the air boot between the mass airflow and the throttle body. Change this hose for a new one and the engine runs now like new and no more rough idle.

It so simple after you find it... but it can take long to find and this is what happens to me.

Cost: less than 1.00$ :nanana: Pretty sure a lot more if I went to the stealer. My diagnostic tool is paid by itself.

Any chance you can post a pic or three of the offending hose location?

There's the location

Is this update supposed to be done to both valve covers? And I guess this is supposed to be an improvement moving the CCV's off the valve covers?

Just to the one cover. I did this on mine and only had to replace the one side. It wasn't cheap....

:thumbup:

That's what I'm talking about. Great job finding that small of a leak. I'll have to check mine now and see how brittle it is.

Where did you get the hose for 1.00?

I'm guessing he just replaced the short bit of vacuum hose with regular auto parts store vacuum hose, sold by the foot.

After looking more deeply, I'm not sure this vacuum hose is for evap system. Tried to find where this hose goes on RealOEM but I can't find it. It's in relation with engine management for sure because my engine runs a lot smoother. Could it feed a type of a second map sensor? Could not see where the vacuum line goes after the firewall.

If somebody knows let me know.