argh, rear ball joints
 

So after dealing with a pesky and extremely annoying squeak from my driver's side rear suspension over the past 2 months I finally got under the car now that we moved in to a house with a big enough garage.

Turns out the squeak is coming from the ball joint. I've read up on making a tool to press them in or out. Has anyone ever tried to pull the rubber boot to clean and install new grease? I figured it might be worth a shot until I can afford to replace more of the rear suspension (plan on the full front and rear refresh from ECS once we actually have some spring weather).

I am just looking for a temp fix as it's embarrassing rolling up to pick my daughter up from school in a high end SAV with a ton of damn squeaking coming from under it. I just don't want to have to pay for an alignment twice if I don't have to and after just moving cash is very tight.

Someone on here rents the balljoints removal tool

I'm not worried about that, I can get the tool at Harbor Freight cheap. I just can't afford the full suspension refresh kit right now and don't want to pull the suspension apart twice. So I was looking for an easy, temp fix to get rid of the noise.

No need for a special tool... you can rent the ball join tool from autozone/oriley/etc..etc..

I got it done using that + a air chisel + air body saw. I pressed/cut out the old one and pressed the new one back in. It wasn't too bad.

remember you have to deflate your air ride after you get it up in the air!

None, its not a serviceable joint/boot, etc. You can spray the shit out of it with grease and hope it lessens the squeak.

And the Harbor Freight tool just to let you know is going to be an absolute bear to use, as its universal and trust me for these ball joints you definitely will want the special tool, unless you have air tools, the old one will need to be cut/pressed out.

If you do choose the Harbor Freight tool and have nothing else I wish you luck, let me know if it actually works because I am highly doubtful, considering how they are pressed in, etc.

Here is the special tool if you do decide to do the job right and if you decide fixing the ball joints properly won't send you to file Chapter 11, at $120 I'm sure you could use it and either rent it to others or sell it to someone on here, a split cost at $60 apiece is very affordable considering it will save hours of shop labor paid to someone who needs to do theirs:

BMW Rear Ball Joint Bushing Tool E38 E39 E52 E53 E60 E61 E63 E64 E65 E66 E67 E70 | eBay

Why would you ha e to deflate the air ride? If you disconnect the battery the air ride won't move.

You need to take the pre-load off the rear suspension when working on it, otherwise you will unbolt the ball joint and the pre-load will be fighting you, the wheel carrier won't hang down, etc, since the inflation of the air spring will keep it in place.

Same reason why most mechanics can't diagnose excessive rear camber issues (rear ball joint and wishbone most likely culprits) because they don't take the pre-load off the suspension first. You can deflate the air spring or just put a jack under the air spring itself and jack it up to relieve the pre-load.

Not endorsing a fix other than replacement and consider that the squeaking may be communicating it is about to die rather than it only has a lingering, chronic squeaky cold.

If you can find where the original lube exited that could allow you to insert some lubricant. While not on suspension parts, I have used a hypodermic needle for similar situations. Depending on the needle, the hole it makes generally seals itself and it is possible to inject a light grease.

Shame you aren't in the UK as I do have the genuine tool for removing/replacing the rear ball joints.

Tbh as stated above you need to deflate the air bag to get the lower arm back in place after replacing the ball joint. You can just remove the hose off the top offs airbag from inside the boot/trunk area.

Using the tool it's straight forward and just requires the ball joints themselves which actually aren't that expensive.

Here's a youtube link that shows the BMW tool being used to R&R the rear ball joints.

BMW 5 Series (E39) 1997-2003 - Rear ball joint DIY, how to remove and install - YouTube

If you just want to do a cheap fix and try regreasing the joint, you can get a needle for a grease gun and insert it through the rubber boot. Pump grease until it starts to ooze out. Like I said this is just a temp fix.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...pfm/w54213.jpg

It is not necessary to buy the ball joint tool if you would rather not. A tool that works just fine is 'rented' free at many auto parts stores such as Autozone.

Yes...you have to de pressurized the Rear suspension

if you're doing it in your garage...you'll need strong Jack and a jack stand ...

lift up the jack stand press it onto your suspension platform as your lowering the car the suspension will depressurize and you will be able to take it off...

4.8isX5 can chime in as he is doing my full Refresh Front and Rear suspension set

here is a video
of Vac Motorsports

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_guTE2ANcIg

THIS is a very good guide used to change out the rear ball joints.

That's a very good write up. Thanks for sharing. R&Ring my rear ball joints, intergal links, and control arms is on my summer to-do-list.

It is excellent and explains every step. Although it's for a 7 series it's identical (apart from telling you to deflate the airbag).

And also explains why a free rental tool might work but the BMW special tool will make the whole job a LOT easier

It took me 2hr. using no special tools. and Yes, you will want some good jack stands ( i made pieces that attach to the top of the jack stand and in turn fit into the jack pads under the car. Once up on all 4, it is rock solid!

makes life a whole lot easier when you are doing it in your 2 car garage with no lift ;)

I picked my application specific tool off of Amazon.com. Sold by SG-Autosports. It came with pictures and instructions on how to use it. $134 w/ tax, tag, and title.

I second the AutoZone rental but I've had bad luck with highly used tools or not being available when I need it.

Buy vs. Rent, depends on if you are in the car for the long haul.

Nyum96 I would be interested in renting from you when you are done with the job most likely

Turns out it's not my ball joints, it's the other end of the integral link. The rubber is separated from the metal tube so it rotates inside causing the creak when going over bumps. Looks like integral links are getting ordered.

I'm seriously thinking of selling this thing soon. It was such a damn good car up until the brutal winter, now repairing all the issues that developed in the extreme cold has my wallet running on fumes. I should have bought another 3 series.

Turns out it's not my ball joints, it's the other end of the integral link. The rubber is separated from the metal tube so it rotates inside causing the creak when going over bumps. Looks like integral links are getting ordered.

I'm seriously thinking of selling this thing soon. It was such a damn good car up until the brutal winter, now repairing all the issues that developed in the extreme cold has my wallet running on fumes. I should have bought another 3 series.

I'd always recommend doing the ball joints and integral links together as they are bolted together you shouldn't reuse the old part. And at 100k or less the ball joints will need to be replaced on our cars it's a popular wear item

Turns out it's not my ball joints, it's the other end of the integral link. The rubber is separated from the metal tube so it rotates inside causing the creak when going over bumps. Looks like integral links are getting ordered.

I'm seriously thinking of selling this thing soon. It was such a damn good car up until the brutal winter, now repairing all the issues that developed in the extreme cold has my wallet running on fumes. I should have bought another 3 series.

+1,000,000 to what Ricky Bobby said.
I have the special press (similar to the one Ricky Bobby provided the link), and it took me 15-20min/side to press out/in the ball joints once the car was lifted and the wheels were off. It's a very easy job with that tool.
Also, when I did the alignment, it was exactly what Ricky bobby described - they didn't take the preload (did not deflate the air suspension), and even with the prybar, everything "looked" very tight, but they could not straighten the rear wheels. They said it's "normal" with BMW's. BS.
Once the ball joints were out and replaced, the rear wheels straightened out by themselves - the alignment was done to the max prior to that, and they went where they should go, with minimal camber.
On a scale from 1 to 10, I would give it a 1 or maybe a 2 - I had to wrestle a bit to line everything up as it should in order to fit the integral link & long bolt back in.

P.S: if you have more than 1 BMW, that press is a good investment. The rear ball joint is the same part for many BMW applications - I used it on my e39 as well. Exact same part.

Thanks for chiming in Dorin, at the price of the special tool its really a no brainer since I'm sure someone would either rent from you afterwards or buy it off you, for $60 its worth to have the right tool for the job.

With the proper tool and perhaps a day or two prior of spraying the area down with penetrating spray to loosen everything up, the actual press in/out of the ball joints is not even the hardest part of the job, its probably wrestling with the wheel carrier to line up the integral link to get it back installed which is the toughest part.

Time for a Honda?
Since the last time we spoke you and I (no hard feeling btw), I've put another 2K on it of infuriating fails (cv boot, front wish bone, front left link, suspension inactive problem, brake line) and mine is now for sale. I'm keeping the E70 for now but I'm thinking of selling that one also and after 8 BMW's I think I'm done with them. Now looking into Subaru for piece of mind....Good luck bro and don't think about it twice as I did , once the seed of selling it is planted , fighting it is just a bad idea. Sell it and fast.

Damn gio I'd swap running boards with you before you sold it if you weren't in Canada

Why does everyone want my running boards anyway RB? lol

I feel like I'm the only one lol.

They are pricey from the dealer ($700-750 for the set) so its hard for me to drop the coin on them when I have a ton of house work/projects going on, and I just bought a few things for my Triumph, as well as OEM xenon headlights for my wife's car lol. And not to mention as you know, with the repairs and maintenance our cars need, that kinda coin could get a few things done on my X preventatively.

I'm waiting on my tax return if Uncle Sam gives me one this year but I always wanted a set, I thought they made the E53 look so classy!


Sorry you had so many troubles and are selling your 4.8 man, we will miss you on here, if you are parting out (are you premier member?) why not sell some of your mods in Classifieds?

I don't want to part out but they are hard to sell so I might still stick around for a while. It feels strange to me how I still desperately want to hold on to it although it brings me so much aggravation. But in the end, it's the right thing to do especially if I want that new 2015 WRX in the stable ;)

I won't ever drive anything that isn't a BMW...

The X5 is the most problem ridden BMW I have ever owned though. I've never had this many nagging issues with any previous BMW. Don't get me wrong, it's been reliable. The issues I have just nag because I have OCD when it comes to cars. I'd drive it across the country as it sits, but the squeaks and minor issues are driving me batty. It stinks too because I have never loved driving a car as much as I do this one, I just need something a little easier on the wallet and less thirsty at the pump. Looking at getting another E46 330 or something.

One rear ball joint done. The correct tool makes it easier. Other than Engine rebuilds and transmissions, you can really repair in day sessions, what needs to be done. I bought mine with 92k knowing I would need to do all this and glad it could take up to 8 hours for everything, while doing it from the ground on my back.

FYI, my ball joint was broken (tire wear) but could not wiggle the tire in and out once the air spring was deflated. Usual sign of a bad joint. Glad I went ahead and did it. 3 hours max each side. Replaced everything minus the sub frame bushing.

If you're doing integral links, replacing the ball joint is an easy while-you're-in-there job.

I have the ball joint tool if you'd like to borrow it; I'd just ask for $100 deposit. Once the tool is returned, I'll refund the deposit minus the shipping/insurance cost (~$15.) Same goes for any others needing to do this job. I haven't done the ball joints with the Autozone/Advance Auto tools, but have done it with this tool; easy stuff.

And yes, deflating the air springs is very necessary, but very easy; just pull two fuses then pop the air fittings from the tops of the bags. One guy I lent the tool to a while back had coil springs on his, and said it was an absolute bear lining things back up. I'm sure there's some special procedure that involves compressing the springs for vehicles equipped that way.

I almost took you up on the offer until i saw the bolded note... Will need to figure out how to line things up before I pull the trigger and tackling this work. :-)

Coil springs on yours?

Just looked it up; they use a "special" coil spring compressor, but I'm sure you could get by with what's available at auto parts stores, and use it with confidence that it won't screw anything up nor make the job any harder than it ought to be.

BMW Workshop Manuals > X Series E70 X5 3.0d (M57T2) OFFRD > 2 Repair Instructions > 33 Rear Axle > 53 Springs With Suspension > 2 RA Removing And Installing _ Replacing Rear Left Or Right Coil Spring

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/X_Se...age-542003.png

Yeap.. I am wondering if i can use the coil compressor tool.

Yup. I amended my earlier response with a link to the BMW Workshop Manual info on the job.

I'll take you up on the tool offer Dave when the time comes, even though my miles are low I'd like to tackle the usual wear items back there within the next year or so, ball joints/integral links run about 150 or so, and the wishbones and guide links about another 250-300 depending on brand, those can be done without special tools.

Going to inspect my subframe bushings as well and start getting things lined up, last year was devoted to front suspension, this year the rear could use some love.

You're already on my list, RB. Penciled in. ;)

Thanks Dave. I got your response on my phone and responded back, for some reason your amended message didn't show up. I'll look into it, will probably look into it this summer

Hold on to you X...once done on mods or refresh or maintenance you'll love her more....last year was brutal for me for the X..thought i purchase a clunker since problems haven't stop from one to another about 10k of repairs last year..but this year I see 95% built ...and home free...lol..once more part is Drivetrain refresh and thats it for me, last year i was ready to pull the trigger on new/used X5M...but the 4.8is just exceeded my expectation every time i fix a problem so I'm keeping her for now



http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...re-she-21.html

FYI- I have used the coil spring compressor from Autozone several times without a problem.

Spray it down with blaster white lithium grease. And if you can get the needle attachment rand a grease gun and pump it into the boot and between. Seal it with rtv. Nice little cheap/semi permanent fix

With rear air springs and a little knowledge of how things work, real easy job. I give it a 2 out of 10 with the right tool. Something I will consider replacing every 20k miles because I don't know what my wife will hit or run over. My second go around should take about 2 hours max including taking the tire off and use of air tools.


With rear coil springs, no idea. Sounds like changing an air spring with a rear slide loading tray. PITA.