Key Fob Problems
 

Hey guys,

I posted an introduction a couple of days ago and mentioned I had some issues with the key fob on my X5.

Symptoms:
Vehicle remote does not lock/unlock vehicle. Unit is unresponsive to programming.
Interior central locking button is fully functional
Vehicle can be locked from the exterior manually using the lock cylinder, hazards audible beep is made signifying the vehicle is locked. All doors lock to include the back hatch as well as the fuel door.
The vehicle was drove for over 10 hours on a road trip and reattempted programming to no avail.

At this point I believe the key battery is dead. I only have one at this point and am planning to buy another one in the near future. I have read about replacing the battery but I do not want to risk messing up the only key I have. My question is before I go buy another key is there anything else I need to troubleshoot so I don't have two useless keys.

Buy a new kew from the dealer, when you receive it send the old key to the guy in the link below, he will repair it for about $40-$50. Now you will have two working keys, that's what i did.

http://www.bmwgm5.com/

I went through something roughly similar. I bought my car and no remote action on either key but just used the door lock until the door lock cylinder broke (and I was locked out of the car in the rain).

I learned how to break in to an E53. I repaired (rebuild) my lock cylinder. I send one of the keys off to the BMWGM5 guy (I had two keys). I also bought a good used FZV antenna module for my car. In my case it wasn't the key (although the battery was getting weak) - it was the FZV module.

FZV is located under the top plastic cover on the inside of the hatch (near 3rd brake light). Get the correct p/n and frequency (very important as BMW used different ones to comply with different legislation around the world).

I replace the battery in the keys of my old 01 525i, 2 keys for another local E39 owner. They all work fine for the last year and half. I'm local to you and can replace the battery for you. Shoot me a PM for info and phone#.

Thanks for the link, I'm hoping now it is just the key and not anything else like the FZV Amp. This sounds like the best course of action. In event that it is not just the battery in my original key I'll have it fixed.

Thanks for the offer but I am currently up in New York. If I was down in the South I would definitely give you a call.

Search locally to see if you can find a vendor that can check the key's battery voltage....that will reveal if the battery inside the key is dead ornot.

You still need a 2nd key...which doesn't have to be a remote key...there are non remote keys you can purchase from BMW that cost a lot less money

most auto parts stores have a key signal sensor tool. My Chevy dealer also had the tester tool. Before spending money on keys or batteries, I suggest checking that first. If it checks out that the key is functioning and sending out a signal and you are unable to program the key, then I would consider a new key. That said be sure you are VERY familiar with how to program the keys. The procedure is easy to mess up.

Yea I am planning on going to an auto parts store and seeing if the key fob is even transmitting a signal. If it is then I am assuming it is something wrong with the vehicle not the key. If it isn't then the battery is either dead or their is a problem with the key itself.

I did think about doing this as well. Get one of the valet keys then send mine out to be repaired in the link mentioned above.

Well guys I hate to leave a thread without any closure. Ended up testing my key at Advance Auto with their little remote tester and got no signal. Decided to order a new key remote from the dealership cost me $160.00 but in the grand scheme of things its not that bad. Came in yesterday, went through the programming procedure and it programmed on the first try. So glad to have a working remote again. Also installed my AFE Stage 2 intake and replaced my expansion tank. I noticed I had a small coolant leak and noticed antifreeze underneath the expansion tank on the bracket. So far it looks like that cured the problem. All I'm waiting on now is my MID and LED AEs and I should be good for awhile. I'm considering getting a subwoofer as well possibly BSW, I like their stealth box setup a lot.

Well guys I hate to leave a thread without any closure. Ended up testing my key at Advance Auto with their little remote tester and got no signal. Decided to order a new key remote from the dealership cost me $160.00 but in the grand scheme of things its not that bad. Came in yesterday, went through the programming procedure and it programmed on the first try. So glad to have a working remote again. Also installed my AFE Stage 2 intake and replaced my expansion tank. I noticed I had a small coolant leak and noticed antifreeze underneath the expansion tank on the bracket. So far it looks like that cured the problem. All I'm waiting on now is my MID and LED AEs and I should be good for awhile. I'm considering getting a subwoofer as well possibly BSW, I like their stealth box setup a lot.

Good job ordering the new key, now send the old one to the guy in the link I gave you and you'll have two working keys.:thumbup:

Yea I'll probably do that in the near future. I'm just glad to have the system working again.