Re-boot or replace?
 

What's the conventional wisdom here? The boots on the CV's are known to split after some-time. Do you re-boot it or replace the whole assembly?

Here's why I ask. About 2 years ago or so - I noticed that the drivers outer CV boot was split and it had flung grease everywhere. At that time I decided to re-boot the CV and had picked up one from the stealership at around $50.

I read about the short-cut procedure to remove the axle from the CV - rather than disassemble the entire
mess, so i decided to try that. After much trouble I finally hit the magic-spot for the axle to pop out of the CV and I simply rebooted the axle and re-assembled.

Or did I?

I never could get the axle to seat back into the CV correctly - although it seemed okay on assembly. The first time I took it for a ride - I got to the end of my street and could hear the axle popping and grinding on stuff. I unsuccessfully tried to reinstall it a few times. I ended up taking it to a local Indy and he replaced the whole axle. I want to say the bill was about $500 with new transmission control software updates as well.

Anyway - so fat forward to today. The passengers side CV is torn and I need to do something about it.

Do I re-try the quick and easy procedure or go the entire disassembly route? (which looks like a giant pain in the ass from what I recall - and requires special tools?)

What have you done?


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rebuild- rebuild.

If the joint is making noise, replace the axle. Otherwise try rebuilding it if you don't mind the mess of repacking the grease.

Have you had luck with the quick disassembly procedure? Or did you have to do the full disassembly?


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Well if the axle or CV joint is grinding and the boot is just torn as you know they sell the boot kits. However I think your problem was really the process and not the parts. In the last case the axle/joint could have been going depending how long the boot was ripped open exposed to the elements like water, sand, and round grime so it could have been on it's way out anyway.
Did your local mechanic give an explanation why he just replaced the whole axle other than "might as well". He could have just been trying to make a few extra bucks which is a complete assumption on my part he could be the most honest guy in the world lol
I've had other imports in the past and the boots have ripped a good rule of thumb on them was if you catch earlier you can save some money with a cv boot kit for like $50 vs buying a whole new axle.
On our BMW's the axles are more expensive than other cars where as the whole axle can cost as low as 100 bucks lol So it's normally just worth it to replace the whole thing vs buying a 50 dollar kit being you have the whole thing apart already.
With all that bullshit said if your axle is clicking or making any noise whether it be on turns or not the axle is already done anyway and just doing a boot kit would be pointless.

I think your hang up is "Do I want to waste money buying a CV Boot Kit again just to end up bringing to my local mechanic in the end?"
Hence wasting money on the kit in a effort of futility. So sounds like your doubt lies in the ability to DIY being burnt once already.
For you it comes down to this.
1.) Does the axle need replacing? If no see (2.) If yes see (3.)
2.) Can I trust myself with second attempt on a boot kit?
3.) Do I let my mechanic replace the axle for me again?

Oh you might be able to get a boot kit cheaper other than the dealer just depends on the part store. I'm in a good unique position though my friend runs a local parts warehouse where the dealers get their parts so I get some good deals. Even though most warehouse parts places sell to the general public and are cheaper anyway as they just deal strictly with parts (no tools or other crap just OE/Aftermarket parts).
I would just see if there is a specific OE brand you need and ask if they can get it if this is your concern.
Hope this helps your position :)

If the joint has already popped and spewed grease everywhere, you can buy a new outer joint from the dealer for about $160, and re-boot as well. Once the joint is exposed to the elements it is compromised in my opinion.

I changed both my outer boots last year BEFORE they split completely, they had some small cracks in the folds, disassembled and cleaned out the outer joints completely and packed with fresh grease, boots and clamps (GKN Loebro, our OE manufacturer). Been running great since and I expect many more trouble free years out of them, as long as you check the boots periodically for cracks and replace BEFORE they spew grease everywhere.


Otherwise, my method above would work with getting a new outer joint and boot from BMW and rebuilding your stock axle. However, at the price for the outer joint from the dealer and the boot kit, you're almost better off using a QUALITY, OEM axle and do full replacement.

You can get GKN Loebro axles for about $250, I do not endorse using the China made $60 "brand new" aftermarket axles as I think their quality is hit or miss.


For what its worth, GKN Loebro is the OE manufacturer for our axles and CV boots, I bought the GKN Loebro brand boot kits for $12.50 apiece from Pelican Parts, the dealer wants $40 per boot kit, the same kit, in a BMW box.

I'd say I am mostly unsure about the procedure to replace - because as you can see I did get bit before a couple years ago. I just got done replacing VC gaskets, front timing cover gaskets, valley-pan and all cooling hoses. An axle boot should be a piece of cake comparatively speaking....

Not really sure what went wrong last time. I was under pressure to get the car back on the road at the time - so maybe that was a factor in it. I just couldn't get the axle to snap-back into the CV correctly. There is no pressure to fix it within a certain window of time now.

I drove it 7 miles to my Indy - (making only 1 left-turn to get there) and suggested he replace the axle. It was making some horrible noises as I assume the axle was popping in and out of the CV - I assumed it was damaged to some extent after this. It was fine before. I think he charged me $120 for the new axle (made in Spain) and 2.5 hours of labor. Not too bad.

With regards to the passengers side now - Overall the boot is in the early stages of failure. It's a bit greasy all the way around the boot (about 1/4 inch wide) - but hasn't spewed grease everywhere yet. I think this happened within the last few months as I recall checking it in the fall and all was well then.

I'll probably reboot based on the feedback here. I need to read-up on the procedure again - it's been a couple years since I've looked at it.

Just trying to figure out if I do it the easy-way or the hard-way. From memory I think the hard-way required some specialized tooling and much-much more disassembly.


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I think it's advanced or autozone that lend/rent tools. Your local independent parts store might as well. If you can find a kit for less that 13 bucks like Ricky claimed I know which route I would take lol
Oh sometimes cars are funny like that everything will go smooth on one side you get to the other and you find a surprise I would give yourself more credit and give it a go.

All I had to do was remove the axle nut, press the axle stub out of the hub, disconnect the lower strut bolts to let the spindle hang free, and remove caliper and rotor, you can then swing the axle out and sideways and have access to the outer joint while the inner axle stays connected. find the sweet spot and whack the joint with a deadblow hammer to get it free from the stub, repair your joint/repack if needed and reattach the outer joint to the stub when done, then clamp your boot and reinstall the axle into the hub and put on new nut.

I used a free slide hammer rental set from Advance Auto which had a flange which bolted on the hub and came with a threaded rod that I pushed into the axle to get it out of the hub, easy.

There are videos on reinstalling the joint onto the axle stub with some tips on Youtube if you need help, there is a sweet spot which will make disassembly and reinstall of the joint onto the stub much easier. Basically if you hit it right it should pop on, and if you hit it in the right spot it should pop off easy.

I'll look that $13 kit-up for sure. I need some belts anyway and it looks like pelican has better prices than my local parts store on those. I might as well add a boot to the list.

Still curious if folks are using the "pop the axle out of the CV" method - or are they doing the full disassembly from the wheel-side which I believe is the "official" procedure

Not sure if local parts stores have the correct tool if going the full disassemble-route. I need to read-up on the procedure when I get home - the details are a bit fuzzy now.


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You mean with the outer joint still installed in the hub?

Absolutely not, I remember reading about that ghetto method. I prefer to take the full outer joint off of the axle, clean out the total internals of the joint completely with brake cleaner and reassemble with ALL NEW GREASE, and reboot.

People popping the joint out of the axle stub with the joint still attached to the hub is a ghetto way to just replace the boot only, in my opinion its half assing the job.

Okay - so you can press the axle stub out of the CV from the outside? (Nut side). I recall the other procedure had you put a vice-grip on the axle itself - apply some pressure with a pry bar and whack it good.

I'll look around YouTube and search the forum on this topic. Right now I am iphone-bound. :)


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Yup. I was referring to the
ghetto method earlier. I didn't have good results using it - yo.


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Do this, and replace the axle nut ;)

10-4 I neglected to mention that, you get a new axle nut in the GKN Loebro kit, although it is a 6 point 36mm nut instead of the 12pt nut on our E53, but the thread is the same.

I check those boots every month with my tire pressure check. At the first sign of any grease leakage, it's time for a new boot. So far, I've caught both sides in plenty of time to avoid a rebuild.

2002 X5 3.0 252,000 miles
2004 325i 113,000 miles

So I've seen some references to a tool that bolts into the hub - then apparently has something you screw-in to push the axle out. That'd be nice - but I don't have one

I did see a guy (YouTube) make reference to using an air-chisel - or is that ghetto too?






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Garrett do you read my posts? I mention the Axle puller set from Advance auto includes the flange that bolts to the hub and the threaded rod to push the axle inwards and out of the hub.


http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...jRfF545szQ.jpg
The kit comes with the above, you need the shallow flange and the black threaded rod under the slide hammer to push the axle out.

Cool. Thanks! Slipped my mind I guess - or maybe I was assuming I needed a special tool that wasn't that easy to acquire. I guess it makes sense. Probably a lot of auto manufacturers use the same basic design for the font CV assembly so universal kits are out there to assist in disassembly.

I am more used to working on old aircooled VW's where everything is simple and you don't need many specialized tools like pullers and pushers, etc....


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No worries, some special tools are needed on certain jobs but for the most part you can rent specialty tools that will do the trick.

Although renting tools gets the job done - I am one of those kind of guys who thinks - "the more tools I own the better"

Has anyone bought - say a harborfreight puller/slide hammer set to get the job done? I was poking around a bit on the website - but couldn't be sure if what I saw would work or not

Like this

http://m.harborfreight.com/16-piece-...t%2520provided


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I payed $135 for a remanufactured axle from autozone. Got the axle replaced for 70$ and brought the old unit back and autozone refunded me 35$

Okay - I am going to give this a go today. Just a little confused here at the moment. I found this procedure in the DIY section.

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...mw-x5-e53.html

Based on some of the feedback I've received - it seems like the procedure is much more simple than this actually? Is this procedure dated and maybe a bit "bloated"?

Maybe things won't be clear to me until I actually start taking this thing apart.

Okay - I am going to give this a go today. Just a little confused here at the moment. I found this procedure in the DIY section.

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...mw-x5-e53.html

Based on some of the feedback I've received - it seems like the procedure is much more simple than this actually? Is this procedure dated and maybe a bit "bloated"?

Maybe things won't be clear to me until I actually start taking this thing apart.

Garrett the procedure on the top of the forum is the "by the book" procedure, that is, basically taking the whole front suspension and wheel carrier off.

Like I said, if you push the axle out of the hub, take the outer nut off as well as the rotor and caliper, disconnect the 2 bolts at the bottom of the strut you have plenty of room to manuever the axle to the side and give you room to pop the outer joint off and replace the boot.

If you want to do it by the book be my guest but I think its a bunch of unneeded steps.

I am all about simple! It's kind of surprising actually - you'd think the official procedures would be highly refined and the most efficient possible. Especially coming from Germans - those guys love procedure/process.


I am actually at Advance auto parts now - gonna see if they have that puller kit available!


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you'll want to rent that slide hammer/puller kit by Powerbuilt I think its called "master axle puller set". Also be sure to get the Powercraft CV boot clamp pliers for ear type clamps for your new clamps.

They had this kit - Powerbuilt kit 41. Looks similar to the one you posted. I assume I will be using this flange and rod to push it out? Think it's long enough?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/28/yhypu4ag.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/28/5yjabu7e.jpg


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Getting there!!! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/28/vuqy6yme.jpg


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Awesome progress and yes thats the right kit with the flange, it should have come with a different rod but looks like you used it alright.

Clean those splines on the axle stub and the splines on the hub WELL with WD40 and a wire brush, and be sure to put ANTI SEIZE on everything when reassembling, axle nut threads, splines, I even put some on top of the axle nut itself when done.

I'm out to dinner but looks like you are going good, it's a little tricky to pop the outer joint off but basically you need to hammer on it ( I used a 3 lb mini sledge)while holding the axle shaft and having the outer joint "hanging down" at an angle, if it doesn't pop off with one or two whacks, rotate the whole axle, as there is a sweet spot where it comes out with one or two hits, you'll know bc it will surprise you lol.

Nice work so far!

What's the secret to getting the snap-ring back into the CV assembly? I am having a hell of a time with it......

I've tried slipping a hose-clamp over it to squeeze it - then hopefully push it out of the way a but that's not working either. Any other ideas???


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That's what I did basically. Used a small hose clamp to squeeze it and it worked ok.

Also, I know it sounds weird but place the c-clip in the channel with the open ends facing out (rounded edge is down in the groove). It's the opposite of what you think you should do but it works, if the rounded side is already in the groove it slips in easier.

And again like I said rotate the axle when hammering it back on again too, when you hit the sweet spot of compressing the clip it only takes a few whacks

Turns out I just needed a beer!

It's going back together now. Need to recheck these torque values - what I have just seems insane....

The full procedure says - 185 foot pounds for the 22mm nut/bolt on the bottom of the struts - then 332 foot pounds for the new axle nut?


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.....and we're done! About 4 hours start to finish for me. That's with a couple-hang-ups and some head scratching time. Not bad for not knowing what you're doing...

The bottom shock bolt and nut gave me some problems - and the inner/little boot clamp didn't bite enough and was loose - it must have been set-up on the wrong notch. I busted it trying to reuse it. I ended-up using a stainless-steel zip-tie type thing. I think it'll be fine.

One extra-part. I assume this is supposed to be under the new axle nut? - (but it didn't seem to fit right) It was just a bit too tight for the splined shaft. I don't recall one being under there in the first-place.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/28/e9egegub.jpg


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Actually dont know what that's from, definitely not under the axle nut though.

As far as the ear clamps, a zip tie is not going to cut it, but the good news is if you need new clamps you can get what you have on there now off, and crimp new clamps on in about 5 mins. Be sure to burp the air out of the boot too!

I noticed with the ear clamps I had to set them up on the notch that was almost too tight, and then when I clamped it down it was perfect, definitely fiddled for a while on that though.

I did a cv joint boot replacement on my old Audi and a similar concave/convex washer was located on the axle after the boot was fitted and before the cv joint was installed back on the axle shaft.

Here's a link to the boot replacement for an Audi and on 7:30 you can see the installation of the washer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZSNU4ODZNg