need heavy advice freaking new problem
 

i need suggestion as what to test for 100% accuracy. my 02 x5 3.0i has been showing white smoke at start up and a tad running rough when it sits for a long time or over night.then after a few minutes it clears away and runs smooth.and ses on with misfire on cyl 1,2,3 even though it has 6 new coils and plugs i took the ccv out today cuz i order a new one after reading of them failing well there is nothing wrong with it after i took it apart.i took the plugs out=cyl 1,2,3 to check compression. well while cranking it over a substance that looks like antifreeze keeps spitting out of cyl-3.but the car temp is always steady in the middle after warm up i've been stuck in heavy traffic for hours and no sign of over heating at all.how can i check if possible start of head gasket.the old plugs show no hint or sign of antifreeze.

your positive its anti freeze and not oil fouling the plugs. sometimes if the valve cover gasket leaks it gets into the plugs.

it seems more watery than oil residue.will check better in morning as it was late when i discover it this evening.

There's a kit that you can buy that attaches to the radiator. The kit checks for combustion gases in the radiator which will indicate a blown head gasket.

Here's a link to the product. There are similar products on the market.

Block Tester - Blown Head Gasket Test by Test Tools

You can also drain the oil and see if there is water in the sump pan.

does is smell like burnt oil from the exhaust or more of a sweet smell?

the 2 times i notice it smell like antifreeze BUT not strong smell.if that makes any sense

white smoke - water vapors... or, as you may have already discovered, antifreeze... I do not know how to resolve the issue nor how to further test it (involves "juicy" parts of the car!!) but I know for a fact that white smoke is not good... some stuppid gasket somewhere inside the engine went kaput and collant is leaking inside the engine...

at this point the leak is small but over time it will grow bigger and it will blow your engine... you need to do something, and do it rather sooner than later (sorry, I am helpless in this kind of situation!!!)

Seems like your wife got taken with this beat up BM Trouble U. Now we know why the SES light was taped over. Sounds like a blown head gasket, a very expensive repair, probably going to cost almost as much as what you paid for the BM Trouble U.

Kinda sad but true, or even worse a warp block from letting the engine overhead.
Best of luck to you and your SAV.

well the strange thing is from sitting all night the radiator still held pressure meaning from when we drove home. when i went to take the reservoir cap off i heard air coming out from holding pressure. i crank the engine over with cap off no bubbles in reservoir. put cap back on.crank engine again no more fluid coming out of cyl-3 so when it built pressure is the issue.

Cooling system only builds pressure when it is hot. The compression in the cylinder (+150 psi) will over come any pressure in the cooling system. The only time the water will enter the cylinder is when the cylinder is on the intake stroke, thats is when there's a vacuum in the cylinder.

thanks this might sound dumb but been that so far since i notice this issue i haven't had to add antifreeze that there could be a possibility of condensation build up on that cyl-3

Have a read of the link below and see what applies in your case. You may need to spend some money having the problem isolated and then repaired.

AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - Detailed Auto Topics - Symptoms of a Blown Head Gasket

thanks i'm thinking hard to start taking it apart. the only thing holding me up at this moment i need better info on the timing, as the last one i did was when i had a 78 530i single cam.i already have a few parts off waiting for the ccv to come in thinking it had to do with it but it ddin't so i have few things off the intake out already.i guess the info i need is on the vanos.?? setting

Since you are seeing white smoke out the back the fluid from #3 is most likely coolant. You should be able to confirm what it is by color or smell. Also, when you check compression in #3 cylinder it should have less compression than the others. Do you have any dash warning lights? Have you checked for error codes in OBC?

yes it is antifreeze that is why i decided to take it apart.also found the problem for cdt-po491 vaccume hose broken under by back of intake.i just need info to take top half timing cover and gear off.i also found that they put a new water pump new fan clutch and radiator but they use the old hoses.

need help bad i started to tear it down now i'm at a stand still cause it says i need
Camshaft Alignment Locking Timing Tool + tensioner tool expensive as hell i found a kit on ebay under $100.00 but it doesn't have the tensioner tool i don't want to pay for a tool that i would only use once i need suggestion as to where else can i get these tools
thanks

Just what are you doing? Are you taking the head off to replace the head gasket?

yes i'm

Sounds like they had a overheating issue at one time and tried to fix it. Nothing they did worked so they decided to dump the BM Trouble U. In addition to the Head gasket, the head and block could be warped.

i'm leaning more towards just head gasket so i hope.the only time i see the antifreeze is when the truck is at normal op temp and the radiator builds its normal 13lbs of pressure if i open the rad cap to release the pressure it goes away.

That's my initial thought (post #9). Hopefully it's not that.

At the very least I would take the head into a machine shop and have it check to see if it got warped. Not knowing if the head is warped will come back to haunt you if the problem still persist.

if the head is warped can`t you just machine it down a bit if its not out by much?

Depends on the engine. I don't know if it is possible with yours.

Your symptoms don't sound to me like a warped head but it is certainly possible. I agree with checking both the block and the head and if the head is warped picking up a used one somewhere.

You haven't had to add any coolant?

A knowledgable shop can do a compression/leakdown test to identify the issue.

here is a little back ground i was a mechanic by trade for 18 years. i gave it up in 95 to drive trucks so, i don't have any problem doing the job the problem is that i had to order the special tools needed to do this job.second i can't find the info i was requesting as to alldata says they don't have info on BMW OR MINI.
i need/want to be sure timing is done the way it suppose to be.i don't want to take it apart after i put everything back.the exhaust manifold are a bitch to get to the nuts.had to buy a air compressor for the tight spots.so any help or guidance will be more than appreciated plus half of the hoses under the intake needed to be change. notice it it after taking manifold off.and the problem for the code po491 the vaccume hose was so brittle at the intake port.

I seen more people screw up when it comes rebuilding or re-installing a Vanos system.

u hit the nail on the head that's the headache i'm trying to avoid.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Sorry if I hit a nerve. No way of knowing ones level of understanding or capability. The Bentley manual for 2000-2006 X5s covers the procedure quite well. I don't recall a DIY here but a search might be worthwhile.

two suggestions
 

Go the Beisan Systems web page and download the lengthy PDF instructions on doing their VANOS rebuild - it includes very detailed instructions on setting the timing - I believe for 3.0L and 4.4L. I did the VANOS rebuild at the same time I pulled my heads to replace head gaskets, clean up the lifters, and replaced all the timing chains/guides/etc on the 4.4L and those instructions were great.

Happy to endorse Beisan Systems and Raj - very helpful, even long after the sale. Beisan Systems - Procedures

I know for my 4.4, the BMW parts shows an extra-thick head gasket available in +0.3 mm (+0.012"). Only reason I can think of is for heads that have been machined... Look that up for your model and it should give you a quick idea if machining the head is a possibility.

This site (no endorsement intended) has good search and shows the diagrams (look under "engine" then "cylinder head attached parts"): BMW Parts - Authentic OEM BMW Parts direct from BMW of South Atlanta | BMW of South Atlanta

well tools came in last night took head off not good news look at pic crack at cyl-3 by intake valve and water hole. i don';t think it can be fix so looking for prices for use one
the guy we bought the truck from is willing to take of a months payment off even though it was as is. but i said i understand as is if it happen 1 year from now not 3 weeks after we pick the truck up.

I would take it in to a machine shop and see if it can be welded. Crack doesn't seems that big. The machinist that I used for my Lotuses and my friends BM Trouble U is pretty good at repairing heads.

+1

Get the head dye-pen inspected, have cracks ground down/weld filled, resurface head/grind valves & seats, then rebuild with new springs/guides/seals/retainers.

Your head will be better then most rebuilt heads if you use a good shop.

was quoted around $500.00 to fix crack= parts and labor nothing else

I agree that an excellent machinist can repair most cracks. In your case I would be concerned about taking that route since the crack ends in or very near the valve seat and extends into the water jacket. I think it is good that you are looking into the used head as another option.

yes i had to rethink that one as there more time and money to repair that small crack i went with a use head found this one with assurance of defect in writing.= BMW Dual Vanos Cylinder Head 1436812 E46 1999 2005 328i 328IS 330i 528i 530i X5 | eBay

i was able to get the guy to give me a brake on the price -$30.00 not bad still free shipping but i do have his guarantee on my paypal request money transfer.

Good decision!

????

One of the stud is bent and unless he includes the cam bearing caps I would walk. Cam bearing caps are align bore for each head and the caps must be replaced in the same locations.

http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/...ps740e85a9.jpg

My post related only to my opinion on the decision to go the used head route because of the location of the crack. I didn't check out the link, I should have.

I thought you meant the head that he listed was a good decision. I think that he can find a head at the local junkyard for a lot less. I know the local junkyard has an E39 and the head is just $65.00 (50 + 15 core)

Victory Auto Wreckers | Official Site

Use the Make and Model search on the page to find the 2000 E39 5 series I6 Engine

Here's a listing from Craigslist down by Orlando.

BMW ENGINES X5 3.0, 325, 330, 540

that's not the head i had to give him the casting numbers of my head so he can give me the same exact head.we did the transaction tru paypal.for the guarantee.i have to transfer my whole cam sect up on to the other head.

Switching cams is no problems, but if the cam bearing caps are not included with the head then you may have problems, since the bearing caps are align bored with the head. Using different caps may cause the cams to bind.

i have the guy number i'll call him and tell him to ship them to me if they are not with the head he send me hopefully i should get it before next friday.

Hopefully he kept the caps with the head. The caps with E stamped on it is for the cam marked with an E at the end and the caps with A stamped on it is for the cam marked with an A.

http://prussianmotors.com/Empower/Pi..._004867_09.jpg

thanks mine is still together to serve as a reference.i'm debating on to put the head back on with the exhaust bolted to the head. as it is a pain to really get to the bolts. but then that's more weight to deal with BUT 1 less thing to deal with.thanks for the replies and guidance

Remember to slowly take the nuts off the caps. Turn each nut 1/2 turn at a time, work evenly up and down the cams, or you risk cracking them.

thanks i read that part.caps are torque at 10lbs i just cant find the tightening torque sequence.bought a new 1/2 torque wrench. but it starts at 20lbs now have to get a 3/8 one it starts at 5lbs

I haven't rebuilt a BMW head though have others and have a couple of questions

Align boring is extremely accurate. Why can't existing caps be transferred to 'new' head?

If the torque is only 10lbs, why should there be concern about cracking caps when you remove them or a need a torque sequence when they are tightened? Wouldn't hurt but why is it a necessity?

Because each head is a little different from the previous heads. Like fingerprints, no two heads are usually exactly alike.

You can align new or used caps to use with the head, but that another cost since now you need to mount the head and all the caps and use a tool to align bore. Cost is usually over $100+ depending on the machinist you take it too.

When removing the cam bearing caps loosen all the caps evenly at the same time, don't take off each cap separately since the cam is under pressure from some of the valve springs. I seen noobs break cams because they didn't loosen the cam bearing caps evenly to relieve the pressure from the valve springs.

When you go to install the cam you need to tighten all the cam bearing caps evenly at the same time for the same reason.

You can tell I haven't even read about rebuilding a BMW head, now I'm
interested, though except in the early days, I have left the headwork to the performance experts.

I agree the heads when cast will have some variation but when they align bore they would have already surfaced the head to true it up. I would think that would make any critical surfaces the same. Since the valve spring pressure is not relieved that means there is no way to check if the cam rotates freely so that makes it critical to me to use the same caps. Regardless, I agree, using the same caps would assure any deviation is eliminated and that's what I would do naturally as a best practice, was just wondering why it is critical--thanks for info.

That would be correct if they only used the same boring machine for all the heads but they don't.

You aren't worried about cracking the caps, you are worried about cracking a CAM! :wow:

Maybe it isn't a problem on our engines, but on the S50/52, you needed to do this carefully as the residual stress in the hydraulic lifters would be enough to crack a camshaft if things weren't done right. There was even a $$$$$$ fixture to hold the cams down while you undid the nuts. If you didn't have the fixture (no one did), then people learned to gently release the pressure on the cams by slowly taking the nuts off in deliberate manner.

OP -- get a 1/4 inch torque wrench (it'll read in Nm and inch-pounds). Multiply inch-pounds by 12 to get to ft-lbs. You don't want to use a torque wrench at the limits of its range if you can avoid it.

thanks the 3/8 torque wrench i have goes from 5 to 80 ft-lbs.

Got it. Example of me being in my own little world of one off rather than the big picture.

The following is a tech article from Pelican Parts detailing camshaft removal: Pelican Technical Article: BMW 3-Series E36 Camshaft Removal and Installation

Suggest you scroll down to view the video first.

well got all the tools needed my bmw repair cd came today scroll thru it no biggie.
just waiting for the use head to arrived. drain the oil today had coolant in it good amount.
left plug off to get it all out to the last drip.LOL once again thanks to all that replied

What BMW repair CD are you referencing?

this is what i bought=http://www.ebay.com/itm/261478025258?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1497.l2649

Thanks.

no problem waiting for ups man so i can start to transfer the stuff of old head over and start putting it back together.

ok i'm almost done putting back together my eyes are getting cross eye on me. accourding
to bmw workshop=http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/x_series_e53/x5_3.0i_m54_offrd/2_repair_instructions/11__engine_(m54)/31__camshaft/1_ra__replacing_camshaft_(m52tu___m54___m56)/page_537/

3rd picture down. i have a before i took apart picture and a putting back picture does this look right.?? i don't want to guess at it been it looks ok to me but like i said i'm tired at the moment 95 degrees sun beaming here in kissimmee.fl thanks for the help

OK went up one tooth looks like the before i took it apart picture except i don't have the tiny gap if you look where the screw are just about touching the gear where on before it has a fracture of a gap.

ok i think this is it phew now they look the same same spacing between stud and gear.?????