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 how can I clean this surface of cv grease 1 Attachment(s) Finally managed to find clamps from here www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/ When I remove old loose inner clamp I’ll clean the surface of the boot where the new clamp will come into contact with boot, this is easy. But how am I going to clean the inside circumference of the boot at the small end shown in pic(without taking off boot)? I can clean the shaft no problem. If I can’t clean this inner circumference no matter how tight I clamp new clamp on the bellow may still move left to right which is issue I have. Any tips much appreciated. | 
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 I would use wax / grease remover or a degreaser.  You could try q-tips to clean between the boot and the shaft. Hope the clamp replacement goes smooth for you! I have an inner cv boot that is crying for a little TLC :( I have the parts, just need to find some time to get in there and do it! | 
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 A little non chlorinated brake cleaner on a rag should work fine. | 
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 rickybobby and BB418is thanks, been raining cats and dogs out here all week, so havent driven x5 in case i get water in cv joint, tomorrow will bite the bullet regardless of weather and drive about 1minute away to a petrol station with a pit thats under over at least, and then will operate, got my syringes full of high temp grease at the ready too....I have to mention the fact that I have spoken to lots of people,  half say use a good zip tie the other half say use a clamp.... Im going with the metal ear clamp, thanks for the cleaning tips re where the inner boot meets shaft, gonna take some engine degreaser with me and also some alcohol nail varnish remover too...will let ya know what happens, hoping i dont have to resort to a zip tie as an interim fix if i screw up my only oetiker clamp...dont expect delivery of the others for a good few weeks.... | 
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 Soak a rag with some WD-40. | 
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 The grease will leech between the boot and the driveshaft over time.  It's just one of those things you need to learn to live with.  Some vehicles will never weep, other driveshafts will weep constantly no matter what you try. Remember that the purpose of the boots is to keep dirt (etc) out of the CV joint, not to keep the grease in. I'd probably use some degreaser applied to a rag and wiped over the surface before installing the clamp. After replacing hundreds upon hundreds of these things over the years (I'm a qualified mechanic), it's my observation that both clamps and zip ties work equally well. If using zip ties, use 2 and install them with the "ratchet" on opposite sides of the shaft. Not for balance - the only real "loose point" in the tie is immediately under the ratchet. Offset them to prevent dust ingress. | 
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 .. ants oz does this method using 2 ties rather than 1 apply even if an am clamping the small boot end that has a diameter of 35mm ? won't having 2 areas that are more 'vulnerable' to leak ie inder the tie head/ratchet, be worse than using one zip tie that will only have one such area of weakness, again thanks for the reply and waitng for the petrol station to open so i go and install the metal clamp if i can , all i know is that the other cv boot ends that are clamped do not shift an inch left or right so i guess easy to know i have done it correctly....again thanks ants oz for enightening a minnow like myself, appreciate feedback from anyone including a man of experience...cheers fella | 
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 I believe he  means use two zip ties side by side.  If you have the two heads opposite each other then there will be a solid tie next to each head to close the gap. | 
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 Zip ties are sensational pieces of kit, don't underestimate their potential for evil! And even for good :) If you have access to the right fastening tool, the stainless clamps do work very well - but a poorly secured one is bad. | 
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